Home Improvement: Buying a stone countertop? Keep your sample piece. |
- Buying a stone countertop? Keep your sample piece.
- Found a vanity on sale at Home Depot and decided to do a light remodel of the entire bathroom. My first project ever!
- Please help, condensation in ceiling!
- What are the downsides of a butler’s pantry?
- Quartz countertop absorbs every little stain - what to do?
- Question about attic insulation
- Insulating Ceiling of Basement Below Uninsulated Patio area
- Hot water doesn't last more than 9 minutes with new water heater. What are my options?
- Dishwasher not draining
- How to fill gap between tile and hardwood
- Just bought my 1st home
- Resurfacing concrete for tile install
- Need new front load washer 25-26 inches deep max 27.
- Big gaps from improper floor installation - Do I caulk?
- No hot water in apartment
- Prepping walls for paint -- best methods to clean up existing surfaces and patch/fix texture?
- Floor Vapor Barrier Question
- Creating a backyard out of 8k sqft really steep sloped land?
- Trying to fix some gross looking filling between hardwood floor planks in my 100 year old house. Is wood putty what I need? I guess I need to pull out what's in there?
- Water infiltration on chimney bricks
- What’s happening with this water in my basement drain?
- Another painting cabinets question
- Does anyone know of a thermostat that will allow you to set fan-only run time?
- Adding outlet above a light switch
| Buying a stone countertop? Keep your sample piece. Posted: 26 Jan 2021 07:39 AM PST I recently bought a quartz countertop and noticed I had metal marks from the installer's tools. Couldn't get these out and was hesitant to use chemicals as I didn't wanna discolor the countertop. I remembered I still had my 4"x4" sample piece somewhere, recreated the marks and kept testing different cleaning methods until the marks went away. Since people are curious. Rubbing alcohol worked perfectly but there's also a YT Video where a guy uses a bit of mud to get the marks out. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 26 Jan 2021 01:15 PM PST I found a vanity on sale at Home Depot for $120 and decided to redo my small powder room. I am a relatively new homeowner and prior to a year ago had never touched a drill so I'm very proud of it! I hung the light fixture, replaced all the bathroom hardware, and a friend helped me connect the plumbing for the new vanity. I know it's nothing like the rest of the posts on this sub, but I'm still shocked at how much I did myself! Before and after: https://imgur.com/gallery/IVvYam8 Vanity: https://www.homedepot.com/p/313817439 Light fixture: Wyatt Modern Farmhouse Vanity 3-Light Bronze Farmhouse Vanity Light https://www.lowes.com/pd/allen-roth-Wyatt-Modern-Farmhouse-Vanity-3-Light-Bronze-Farmhouse-Vanity-Light/1002866408 Overall it cost me about $320. I'm in Seattle. Vanity w/top and sink $120 Soft close toilet seat $30 Light fixture $99 Faucet $60 Paint $0 leftover from another project Rug $9 [link] [comments] |
| Please help, condensation in ceiling! Posted: 26 Jan 2021 05:39 PM PST We just noticed the ceiling in our living room is bubbling and has condensation. It is a straight line, right where two sheets of drywall connect. It goes across almost the entire room. The area feels cold. Right above is a bedroom and the bedroom closet has the water heater. The floor in the bedroom feels fine to the touch and the water heater seems fine, no visible leaks. The washing machine was running at the time we noticed the condensation, with hot water. Please, any possible ideas what it could be? Could the water heater line go thru the ceiling/floor in that area and just be really cold? It is snowing here...idk. [link] [comments] |
| What are the downsides of a butler’s pantry? Posted: 26 Jan 2021 11:58 AM PST I keep seeing people post about redoing their entire kitchen. If you have enough space why do people not consider putting in a Butler's pantry? I feel like its one the most practical places in the house. Not only can you put food in there but if you like to use a lot of machines you wouldn't have to keep them out on your counters. Making a more seamless and less cluttered look. [link] [comments] |
| Quartz countertop absorbs every little stain - what to do? Posted: 26 Jan 2021 09:31 PM PST Is there anything we can apply to clean without destroying, or apply to seal the countertop? A strawberry leaking juice would have a stain that takes days of baking soda and scrubbing to remove. I think the past year of using clorox wipes to clean might not have been helpful. Ideally we want to seal it with something that reduce the porosity of the stone countertop. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Question about attic insulation Posted: 26 Jan 2021 06:56 PM PST So I have a 3 story TH from ground level that was built in 2001. Had the roof replaced 2 years ago and they said the insulation in the attic is low 8 inches) and it should be at least 14. Starting to get some quotes and folks out for estimates. So I guess I'm wondering from a non-salesman how much will increasing the blown-in insulation help and save money in the long run? Biggest issue is the upstairs is always to hot or to cold. (Same with the basement) [link] [comments] |
| Insulating Ceiling of Basement Below Uninsulated Patio area Posted: 26 Jan 2021 05:44 PM PST Hello all, Need some advice, there is a room in my basement that I'm wanting to turn into a room where my wife can start her garden in late winter early spring, with grow lights and the works. Problem is, that room is frigid compared to the rest of my basement. It sits below an uninsulated patio "room" on the front of my house. So my guess is I'd be losing all my heat thru the ceiling. I bought two rolls of R-13 faced fiberglass insulation to staple up between the joists in that room to prevent the heat loss, but I was reading about similar projects and how you have to consider the vapor barrier and whatnot, and now I'm not sure. I've provided a link to a little diagram I drew up, am I going to cause problems by tacking faced insulation up between so that the facing covers the fiberglass in the basement room, or should it be tacked the other way with some sort of covering, or am I going about this all wrong? [link] [comments] |
| Hot water doesn't last more than 9 minutes with new water heater. What are my options? Posted: 26 Jan 2021 04:35 PM PST I bought a house that was newly renovated with a new electric water heater. It's a 50 gallon AO Smith model number ENT-50 110. The showers are up on the second floor. Hot water heater in the basement. I've timed the hot water in the shower, it's usually around 8 minutes and 45 seconds (sometimes a bit longer) but overall is just not good enough. No time for relaxing, gotta wash up and get out. Water temperature is turned up to 160F, gets very hot but just doesn't last. I had a well-recommended plumber come out. He verified that both elements in the heater are working as they should. We have a gas stove. So I asked about switching to a gas water heater. He said "don't know what to tell you..." suggesting it wouldn't make much of a difference besides replenishing a little faster if I switched to gas and would cost thousands. There has got to be another option. I'm willing to pay to have decent hot water. How can I solve this? Thank you for your suggestions. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 26 Jan 2021 08:11 PM PST Bosch 6 Series. At the end of the cycle the dishwasher doesn't empty the bottom pan. It's full of filthy water. There is no leaking. I've pulled it apart and the impella moves freely. Any other tips? Pic of the bottomwater [link] [comments] |
| How to fill gap between tile and hardwood Posted: 26 Jan 2021 07:12 PM PST There's a thin gap between where our hardwood meets the tile (there is a thin metal trim between the two, but the wood wasn't cut perfectly straight and now there's a slight gap) I don't want to put a transition piece because the tile and hardwood are nicely level to each other, just hoping to give it a cleaner finish. Any ideas? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 26 Jan 2021 07:51 PM PST Hello Redditors. I just bought my 1st home and I'm looking for any and all advice on maintenance, things to look for, things to avoid, etc, etc. I'm open to any and all ideas. Thank you for the help. [link] [comments] |
| Resurfacing concrete for tile install Posted: 26 Jan 2021 09:59 PM PST I am currently remodeling a bathroom in my newly purchased 1960s home. After removing the carpet (yes carpet in the bathroom) I discovered some vinyl sheeting underneath. I had the vinyl floor tested for asbestos and thank god it came back negative. The sheet came right up (it was barely attached) but underneath it is some black mastic that is clearly from yet another layer of flooring which was removed a long time ago. This bathroom is on a slab and ultimately I want to install porcelain tile directly on the concrete. I didn't test the glue for asbestos but I am pretty sure it would come back positive. Normally I would sand blast it clean but I am not willing to take the risk. So my question is this: can I install tile over this concrete which has glue on it and if not, could I pour a thin layer of self leveling concrete to resurface the floor? Any other suggestions are welcome! [link] [comments] |
| Need new front load washer 25-26 inches deep max 27. Posted: 26 Jan 2021 09:38 PM PST I have a washing machine/dryer closet that I need to fit a front load washer into. The new ones tend to be too large. We've kept the one we have going for over 10 years but I need to find a replacement that will fit before it breaks down for good . I do not want a compact. Does anyone know of a good size front loader that will fit the bill? [link] [comments] |
| Big gaps from improper floor installation - Do I caulk? Posted: 26 Jan 2021 09:30 PM PST In the pictures linked, there are notable gaps between the bathtub and laminate flooring. I am very inexperienced with all this but the first solution I can think of is to caulk everything as it seems easiest for me. Is this a usual and practical way to seal the gaps to prevent moisture damage? Will it still look stylish? Thank you all [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 26 Jan 2021 09:09 PM PST Okay so one of our 2 apartment bedrooms has water. Our kitchen has water but my master bathroom has zero cold or hot water in the sink, tub, shower, or toilet. I've tried contacting our property manager and they pretty much always ignore requests. Just curious if you guys have any advice on what to do or try! The building shares a boiler* [link] [comments] |
| Prepping walls for paint -- best methods to clean up existing surfaces and patch/fix texture? Posted: 26 Jan 2021 06:51 PM PST Images of current state. Lots of ridges and unpainted areas where the cabinets were. I'm wondering how I should go about prepping the surface for painting to ensure a good finish. Should I sand down and raised bits and retexture the problem areas? Retexture the whole wall? or do I need to sand down the existing texture/paint then start from flat drywall? Have several holes and large sections of drywall to fix as well and want the final finish to look good all around. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 26 Jan 2021 08:52 PM PST I'm looking at building a 9ft x 12ft winterized building to use as a home office. Part of this project involves building an insulated floor (haven't decided on the exact type of insulation yet). I've heard that you should protect floor insulation with a vapor barrier to prevent condensation from rotting the insulation. From what I've read you're supposed to put the vapor barrier above the insulation in cold climates and below the insulation in warm climates to account for where the moisture is most likely to originate from. I'll be building this in central Ontario, Canada where the winters can be -20 Celsius and the summer can be 30 Celsius and very humid. My question is - in this case would it be appropriate to have a vapor barrier both above and below the insulation? Or do I risk that if any condensation were to get in somehow that it would never be able to escape? Thanks in advance for any insights! [link] [comments] |
| Creating a backyard out of 8k sqft really steep sloped land? Posted: 26 Jan 2021 08:38 PM PST Making offer on a house in California without a backyard sitting on a 10k sqft lot. The back of the house faces a really steep sloped land. Is it mission impossible to flatten it so I can create a backyard? If you zoom in you can see it's sitting on a mountain: https://i.postimg.cc/hGjd7Xjk/FFF97669-5974-4767-A4-EB-710-D8864-E441.jpg [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 26 Jan 2021 08:27 PM PST Thanks in advance I'm really a novice at this stuff. Basically in a few rooms on my second floor there's a couple planks that have what I think is like an old epoxy or something. It's all bubbled up and cracked, kind of looks like that foamy gorilla glue. I'm guessing I need to pick that stuff out with something? And then fill it in with something else? [link] [comments] |
| Water infiltration on chimney bricks Posted: 26 Jan 2021 08:06 PM PST We've started noticing water staining the brick inside near the ceiling in the last several months that wasn't there in the months and years prior. Our chimney is original with the house, and at least 50 years old, so it's not in pristine shape. The water damage appears to be primarily on the chimney below where there's what looks like a mediocre flashing job on the roof. We got a two quotes from chimney companies, and one quote from a roofing company, and the work and quotes are so far apart I was hoping to get a second opinion. The first quote was ~$12,000. They believed that the cracks in the chimney, along with the moss on the exterior of the chimney, was causing water to leak into the brick and cause the water damage. The quote covered power washing the brick, replacing the crown, repointing and replacing damaged bricks, and a new full coverage cap. The second quote was ~$900 from a chimney company. They believed the problem was due to the poor flashing on the chimney, and would cover replacing all of the chimney flashing. They did also agree that bricks would eventually need to be replaced, but didn't think it was the primary cause of the water infiltration. The third quote was from a roofing company, also for ~$900. They believed the problem was due to the top flashing, and it covered replacing the top section of flashing only, some of the shingles above the flashing, and adding an aluminum drip edge along the side of the roof. We'd obviously like to avoid spending more money if possible, and currently leaning towards the second quote. Photos of the chimney: https://imgur.com/a/iKhVxtC A few questions that we're not sure about:
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| What’s happening with this water in my basement drain? Posted: 26 Jan 2021 07:56 PM PST https://imgur.com/gallery/cNT5Fbl https://imgur.com/gallery/o4ZFwUU I have a basement with a drain in the concrete. It's been having some water entry issues that have recently gotten much worse. I wasn't prepared to drop 5k on waterproofing until I understood the issue so I put a camera down there. You can see in the first set of photos: it's dry as a bone at 7:34, water is on half the floor at 7:37 and by 7:43 it has an inch of standing water. The drain is just off screen on the lower left hand side. There's better pictures in the second set of photos. The drain in my basement goes out to the yard. I took a photo of the clean out and it is full of water too. This is about 15 feet away from the house. The drain goes at least 50 feet away into the yard. A plumber snaked it for me one time. The doorway is below grade and there is some pooling there as well, but it looks like to me the water is actually coming up the drain. How would this even happen? At the time, it was raining very hard but had only been raining for half an hour or so. This drain functions fine and drains away from the house under normal conditions. The washing machine drains into it for whatever reason. I'm at a loss for the physics of what's happening here. [link] [comments] |
| Another painting cabinets question Posted: 26 Jan 2021 05:40 PM PST So the wife is telling me that everything she sees says you shouldn't paint the inside of the cabinet if you're painting the doors. Is this actually the case? Since I'm not sure how a dark grey door would necessarily look with a maple inside. These are frameless ikea cabinets. Also I'm going to have to build a pantry size cabinet myself which obviously wouldn't match the rest of them that are installed. I had thought about going with a white inside and not painting the whole thing grey so there was a contrast at least. Shouldn't a high quality cabinet paint hold up to plates and all that sliding on the shelves without scratching? [link] [comments] |
| Does anyone know of a thermostat that will allow you to set fan-only run time? Posted: 26 Jan 2021 12:49 PM PST I'm looking for a thermostat that will allow me to schedule the furnace fan to run (without heat) so that I can eliminate some of the hot/cold spots in the house. I don't really want the fan running 24/7, which is typically the alternative to "auto mode" on most thermostats. It seems really hard to research this as the fan controls are rarely included on spec sheets. I'd prefer to spend under $100 but I'm open to options if the only units with this capability are high end. [link] [comments] |
| Adding outlet above a light switch Posted: 26 Jan 2021 07:34 PM PST I have a light switch on my wall, but I'd like to add an outlet about 6 inches above it. I know I need to run a hot, neutral, and ground wire. But this light switch box is a nightmare for having only one light switch. Can someone help point me in any direction? I suspect the 2 black wires going to the Lutron switch are the hot, the white in the back are the neutral....but how do I find the ground? The light switch has no ground attached? [link] [comments] |
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