Home Improvement: What repairs are a dealbreaker when buying a home? |
- What repairs are a dealbreaker when buying a home?
- Had A Professional Tile Our Backsplash. I think it looks terrible.
- Built an overly complicated picket fence for my daughter and dogs.
- $2 fuse vs $2K new appliances.
- How to get rid of carpenter ants for good?
- Residential HVAC Recommendation - Cape Cod Style Home
- Underground Creek running through Cul-de-sac
- Cordless Porter Cable drill get's halfway through sinking a screw and just starts clicking.
- It's my first time replacing the caulk on my bathtub -- did I get all the old stuff out?
- How to properly fix these basement windows
- Opinions on roofing job on A-Frame house
- What is this thing sticking out of my wall in the back yard? Doesn't quite look like a faucet or LNG port?
- Can I install a gas oven where there’s an existing gas dryer hookup?
- Need contractor advice on a concrete pour
- Is sill-seal still a thing (under bottom plate)?
- Concerned about bathroom tiling
- Considering converting from oil heat to propane. Will I regret it?
- No Entrance To Attic, But I Definitely Seem To Have One - Looking For Advice
- Bought a concrete block house, do I need a rotary hammer or can I just get a regular drill with hammer function?
- Can a layperson repipe this?
- My AC unit cooling is set to 70 but inside the temperature is 80. Help!
- What kind of framing is this and what are my options for insulating the basement header?
- How important is repairing a broken inner pane of a double pane window?
- Having trouble trying to mount a TV in an apartment
- How would you fix this dented kitchen island?
| What repairs are a dealbreaker when buying a home? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 01:31 PM PDT I'm just getting started on my search for a home. I've only toured three houses but one of them I do REALLY like. I don't want to rush into anything, and I know many people take months to find the right place. However this one particular home checks of 95% of my boxes. BUT, there is one issue. A sloping floor in the upstairs bathroom. It's slopes from the toilet to the bathtub and is very noticeable. The selling agent sent the old inspection report but also sent photos before the current residents moved in and it looks like a closet was removed from directly under the bathroom. I don't know enough about construction to know how big of a deal this is to fix. Could it be from water damage, lack of support, both? Is it worth negotiating, maybe ask current owners to install more support under the bathroom? Is this a much bigger structural wise? I don't want to pass up a good opportunity but also don't want to get into buying a house with expensive structural issues. [link] [comments] |
| Had A Professional Tile Our Backsplash. I think it looks terrible. Posted: 23 Jun 2020 05:52 PM PDT |
| Built an overly complicated picket fence for my daughter and dogs. Posted: 23 Jun 2020 09:08 PM PDT Finished picture is on top, and I accidentally reversed the rest. https://imgur.com/a/dSLoiI6 Like the title says I built an over complicated fence lol. It was going to be a quick and simple fence but I didn't want it to look cheap and half assed so it turned into a month long project. I went down a Pinterest rabbit hole and found a style my wife and I liked. It's called a "framed picket fence" apparently. I got a couple of quotes and they were 3k+ because I wanted no brackets or hardware showing and a bunch of other things. It could've definitely been done a lot faster but between bad weather, working overtime, and trying to spend time with my daughter, I only put 6-10 hours a week into it. I'm sitting right around 1k worth of materials so I saved 2k by doing it myself. A big part of the cost was using 1x4 cedar trim boards for pickets instead of regular fence pickets. I would've gone with regular but the quality was terrible right now. I initially bought 200 tickets and ended up returning them because the quality was just unacceptable. The lumberyard employee said they've been having issues with them because everyone is building fences and the mills just can't keep up. I ended up buying 120 1x4 cedar trim boards for $5.30 each so each picket cost me $2.60 vs $1.15 for cheap fence pickets. I'm happy with that decision though. These are 3/4" x 3.5" vs 1/2" x 3.5" for fence pickets. They're also smooth on three sides and even the back "rough" side looks was nicer and smoother than the fence pickets I initially got. I rounded off all the corners because I figured my daughter will be grabbing them and it will help prevent splinters. Here are some pictures of the build. I tried to put details and descriptions under every photo. I accidentally uploaded them backwards and can't fix it on mobile so after the first finish photo, it would make more sense to start at the bottom and work your way up. https://imgur.com/a/dSLoiI6 Feel free to ask questions or criticize! Edit: forgot to mention I drilled and countersunk each picket. I initially did one screw per rail but then went back and did two screws per rail, so four screws per picket. I don't know if it was necessary but I didn't want any cracking or splitting. https://imgur.com/a/N0SM9e8 [link] [comments] |
| $2 fuse vs $2K new appliances. Posted: 23 Jun 2020 08:57 AM PDT Lesson learned here. I made several incorrect assumptions due to naivety of 240V washer/dryer. We had the dryer "go" earlier in the month. I stopped the dryer due to a burning smell we assumed had originated at the dryer, so assumed that the issue was with the dryer. The dryer then did not start again. I did inspect the fuse box (old style fuses), but due to how the face was put on the box I could not pull the actual fuse for the 240v. Still, since the dryer had been running, and the washer was still running, I assumed the issue was with the dryer. This was obviously not the case. Once the new appliances were hooked up, they did not start. So, in prep for an electrician to investigate I started to chip off the paint to set the face plate properly to allow the fuse to be pulled. And, of course, one fuse had gone. I just did not understand how 240v was wired up to know that the washer (presumably 120v, that was plugged in to the dryer) could still be working and the dryer not working. It still kind of boggles my mind, but lesson learned. Even if I had decided to call for a 'repair' visit, they probably would have discovered the issue on investigation and only cost a couple hundred at most. Oh well. [link] [comments] |
| How to get rid of carpenter ants for good? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 03:57 AM PDT EDIT2: OK, these aren't carpenter ants, but they are still making a nest inside of my wood garage. Long story short, EDIT: About 5 minutes after I posted this, I went to my garage and saw that they have been busy overnight and this is what I saw this morning: https://i.imgur.com/6BLTsCA.jpg EDIT3: Another pic: https://i.imgur.com/7mVW8t7.jpg EDIT4: Trim removed: https://i.imgur.com/nOGd00p.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EbQYfzi.jpg
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| Residential HVAC Recommendation - Cape Cod Style Home Posted: 23 Jun 2020 02:30 PM PDT Hello All, I am in a cape cod style home in metro-Detroit area that is 3,324 sq feet (1,445 upstairs + 1,879 main floor + 1,534 basement). I have two HVAC systems (including furnace and AC units) that are both a bit older. Both systems are controlled by Nest 3rd gen thermostats (that I'd like to continue to use). Main floor is a Lennox Elite system that is 23 years old and upstairs is an Amana system that is 15 years old. Downstairs seems to heat and cool just fine. Upstairs heats fine and doesn't run all that much in the winter, but on hot summer days (85+) it can never really catch up and can't get temps below about 78 (and some rooms even worse), so it just runs non-stop. I had to make two service calls on the upstairs furnace over the winter and the AC can't keep up. Downstairs system is over 20 years, so I figured it needs to be replaced soon anyways. I got some quotes for Lennox systems from $16K-$22.5K to replace both systems (including new humidifier, air cleaner box and pump). I have lots of options between single stage, two stage and modulating. These prices do not include utility rebates ($400 >97%, $250 >96% for heat and $400 >18 SEER, $250 16-17 SEER and $150 15 SEER) or federal tax credits, since those are uniform.
Any other thoughts? Full details in the matrix below... [link] [comments] |
| Underground Creek running through Cul-de-sac Posted: 23 Jun 2020 06:17 AM PDT My wife and I are looking at buying out 20+ year home. The one we plan to raise our kids in. We have it under contract and just finished the inspection yesterday. Everything came back good with only minor issues, replace Smoke detectors, tighten some outlets, things like that. I am concerned however with a ground water issue in the cul-de-sac. According to the current owners there is an underground creek that will sometimes bubble up onto the road. It all goes down a storm drain by my house, but could this cause further problems years down the road? Here are some aerial photos and pictures that I took yesterday during the inspection. Update. These pictures have been showing two separate events. The aerial photos show water draining from a house up the street watering their yard. The water then cuts across the cul-de-sac. What I saw yesterday was in fact a leak from the water main, the city is working on fixing it now. [link] [comments] |
| Cordless Porter Cable drill get's halfway through sinking a screw and just starts clicking. Posted: 23 Jun 2020 02:59 PM PDT Hoping this is r/homeimprovement worthy, since it's related to a million house projects that are now stalled because of this. I tried the other battery, problem persists. It's like as soon as it needs to be really driving, it just stops. It'll click rapidly, but not spin or anything. Happens in reverse or forward. As soon as there's too much tension, or the drill needs to work x hard, it quits. Any ideas on what's going on? [link] [comments] |
| It's my first time replacing the caulk on my bathtub -- did I get all the old stuff out? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 01:35 PM PDT So this is my first time ever working with caulk and bathtubs (or caulk in general). I've spent hours trying to get all the old caulk out (i seriously think this is the first time in the 16 years since this condo was built that the caulk has been replaced). I think I got everything for the most part. There are some patches underneath the tiles (you'll see in the photos) and in the corners, that will not come out no matter how much I spray with caulk remover or hack it with my scraper. It feels like cement -- maybe it's grout? The end result, as you can see in the photos, is that I don't have a consistent gap for the caulk to go in. I'm wondering if it's okay to go ahead and start cleaning and caulking, or if I need to clear all this out too. And if it needs to be cleared out, any tips on how to get rid of the remaining stuff? My arms are tired and I used up just about all of my caulk remover spray. Thanks so much for your help! And if it makes a difference, I'm based in NYC. I moved into my place last year, but it was built in 2004 I think. Thanks again! [link] [comments] |
| How to properly fix these basement windows Posted: 23 Jun 2020 07:16 PM PDT Hello I'm working on my home built in the 1900s. The basement windows have been busted for some time now. I want to fix them but am a little confused as to how to properly frame them in due to the way they were originally constructed. See here: https://imgur.com/a/CMeBUnm There are 4 total of similar construction. They have joists resting on top of them and are roughly the same size. I have a bunch of salvaged glass block but I am tempted just to get some typical windows as replacement because I understand they have a much better R value. They are blocked off to the outside (kind of) with some sheets of OSB so I'm not sure how they line up with the concrete walkway around the house. My best guess on how to do this correctly is to build a temporary wall on the inside under the joists and knock out the existing wood frames and rebuild them with pressure treated lumber and secure with concrete anchors then install the glass block/regular window from there. What would you recommend? [link] [comments] |
| Opinions on roofing job on A-Frame house Posted: 23 Jun 2020 01:13 PM PDT Hello all, Was wondering what do people here think about this roof on an A-Frame house using Presidential TL. How much of this (damage to shingles and gap in valley between shingles on wall and roof) is acceptable on a house like this? I don't think the gap in the valley is acceptable, I haven't paid yet and the city inspector will be here saturday (which is when they are supposed to finish the skylights). Any recommendations welcome. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 23 Jun 2020 11:06 AM PDT |
| Can I install a gas oven where there’s an existing gas dryer hookup? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 06:18 AM PDT Edit: literally trying to pick up a $50 fb marketplace gas oven to use maybe twice a year - appreciate all the suggestions about new appliances, but I'm good fam. Unconventional, I know - but I'm hosting (if 'rona cooperates) Thanksgiving and was contemplating getting a second oven to help with the overflow. I moved my laundry setup from the basement to my first floor, but the hookups are still in the basement. Would I be able to pickup a secondhand gas oven and install where the dryer was with little to no modifications? [link] [comments] |
| Need contractor advice on a concrete pour Posted: 23 Jun 2020 07:05 PM PDT I got a few estimates for a stamped concrete job I did not want to do myself and chose a local guy with decent experience and a fair estimate. Not the cheapest but he noted some things other people didn't mention during the estimate. We scheduled a date two weeks out from acceptance. The Monday/Tuesday he was supposed to work was pushed back a day due to him need a new part of his work truck. Then he couldn't get a concrete truck to come in on Wednesday, but when saying so he said I wanted integral color, which while was discussed, we decided to just go with normal concrete with a release color. This was quite a shock to me since we had confirmed exactly what I had wanted that Sunday. He apparently heard me saying "regular concrete" of the color as a trowel job. He rescheduled to last Friday and it was likely to rain so he pushed that off. The weather this week was quite agreeable to a pour any day, and on Monday he said Thursday or Friday of this week, and now told me he couldn't get a pour until Tuesday. I am very confused. How exactly was he even planning on getting a pour (originally) last Tuesday and yet now it is going to take a full week to get a pour? I'm getting concerned but I have not paid the man at all yet. Is this normal? I ended up giving this job to someone because I didn't want the hassle in the end but I am now getting worried. [link] [comments] |
| Is sill-seal still a thing (under bottom plate)? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 09:41 AM PDT I'm getting mixed feedback on this, seems to be three camps when it comes to using sill-seal between concrete and wood:
I don't see any harm in #3 even if it is a bit excessive, but maybe it's a waste of time and money, what do you guys think? [link] [comments] |
| Concerned about bathroom tiling Posted: 23 Jun 2020 06:17 PM PDT Hi all, Just hoping for some advice if possible. Recently had somebody in to redo the bathroom - a couple of niggles so far which I will address, but my main concern is the tiling. It is yet to be grouted, but I have 2 concerns;
Do the 2 points above sound acceptable, both the fact he's tiled over tiles in one part of the bathroom, and how wonky the border tiles are? Thanks in advance! Pictures: http://imgur.com/gallery/speb4BX [link] [comments] |
| Considering converting from oil heat to propane. Will I regret it? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 06:13 PM PDT Ive got a 60 yr old oil boiler and an oil tank that might be the same age. I have hydronic baseboard heat. I've read about the BTU differences and amount of fuel to get the same heat, etc. I'd free up some basement space by getting rid of the oil tank. My yard might have ledge so i'm unsure about an underground propane tank. Regardless, i will be getting propane for cooking. There is no NG in the area. Would I regret converting? [link] [comments] |
| No Entrance To Attic, But I Definitely Seem To Have One - Looking For Advice Posted: 23 Jun 2020 06:05 PM PDT Not sure if this is the right place to be asking about this, but my girlfriend and I have been doing some home improvement recently and we've realized we need better storage options. It'd be perfect if we had an attic to throw some old boxes into. I live in a small town in Fife, Scotland, and my neighbours have attics and I'd always wondered why I seemed to not have one. I'll include pictures below, but it appears I may actually have one. Above my bedroom, I have an extension on my house along with a window that seems to indicate an attic is definitely there, I just don't seem to have a door to access it. The view from the outside - https://i.imgur.com/9BXlefw.jpg - The red box indicates where my bedroom is, and as you can see there is clearly an area above it, along with a window in the red circle. Apologies if the picture isn't too clear. I can update with better images if needed. I've talked to a friend who lives in my area, in a house with the exact same layout as mine, and he has an attic door in the corner of the room, next to the window. However, in mine, I have no such thing. I have no door anywhere in the house. I've thought about just cutting through the roof and looking, but I don't know what's up there and don't want to risk cutting into insulation, or wiring. Let me know if I can provide any further details and I'll update as soon as I'm able. I'm really just looking for some advice on why I might not have an entrance, and what my best options are for getting into the attic if there even is one. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 23 Jun 2020 01:41 PM PDT Old house was wood frame, this one is CBS, and I've found that certain things I want to do (mount a tv on a wall, hang some garage shelving, outside decorations, etc.) can't be done with my current drill. From what I've been reading, everyone seems to suggest getting an SDS, but is that overkill? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 23 Jun 2020 04:14 PM PDT I'm a relatively handy pregnant woman and I need advice on a leaky sink pipe. About 8 or 9 inches of the pipe (the vertical part directly below the sink, just before the P trap) is accordion-style, white plastic with two cuffs - one on each end. The bottom cuff is cracked (thus leaks). The top cuff doesn't even tighten. So this POS is basically a dangling bit of flexible plastic that's leaking into my cabinet - not to mention that it's otherwise a hair magnet that often backs up and STINKS! Could I reasonably replace this one little piece of pipe without a plumber? What materials would I need? What precautions should I keep in mind? Any thoughts on cost? Thanks for your help!! Edit: if it matters, the pipe that this connects to on top is metal and the P trap at the bottom is plastic. [link] [comments] |
| My AC unit cooling is set to 70 but inside the temperature is 80. Help! Posted: 23 Jun 2020 02:24 PM PDT Hello, I honestly don't know what's going on with my AC. A couple nights ago I woke up to it warmer then usual upstairs and saw that inside it was around 76 when the AC unit was set to 70. This isn't the first time I've encountered this issue so I thought in a few hours it would go back to normal. Well, I was wrong. It's been 2 days and the upstairs will not go down any less then 80 when the actual unit is still set to 70! Downstairs feels fine, I've been sleeping down here since the AC doesn't wanna cooperate upstairs. Any suggestions on how to fix this would be great. [link] [comments] |
| What kind of framing is this and what are my options for insulating the basement header? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 03:59 PM PDT I'm doing some prep work before a spray foam contractor comes in and insulates the header in my basement. The house was built ~1860's - 1880's, has a rock foundation, and the basement is unfinished. Currently the header as well as the space between the joists of the first floor have fiberglass batts. When the contractor came to check things out for a quote and to come up with a plan, we pulled the fiberglass out to take a look. This is what you see: We decided to move forward with the foam in the header assuming it was a platform like frame, but in the process of removing the fiberglass batts, I now see that it is a balloon like frame with blocking in between the joists. I say balloon like, because as you'll see the studs are not actually connected to the floor joists. Here is what it looks like when the blocking is removed: If we just spray foam over the blocking, won't the wall cavity still be susceptible to air leakage from where the studs meet the sill? Should I remove the blocking in each joist bay, stuff mineral wool or something up into the wall cavity to keep the cellulose in place, then spray foam the header as well as the exposed bottom piece of the wall cavity? Any other ideas would be appreciated. [link] [comments] |
| How important is repairing a broken inner pane of a double pane window? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 04:21 AM PDT I'm in the process of buying a house & one of the few things we've found wrong with it is that two of the windows have the inner pane broken. (One is just cracked, the other is almost completely missing, just shreds of glass left around the frame.) I'll definitely be asking for closing cost credit to cover a repair estimate for them. One window will be repaired for sure. However, I plan on installing blackout material like this over the other window, so aesthetics don't matter. Is having that window unrepaired going to be a major issue for insulation? Any other things I should know about? I'm not opposed to repairing it if necessary, but since I'm covering it anyway, saving the money for other stuff would be nice. [link] [comments] |
| Having trouble trying to mount a TV in an apartment Posted: 23 Jun 2020 08:52 PM PDT Hi, I'm nowhere near handy but I'm trying to mount a tv in my apartment for more room. We're allowed to drill holes and everything as long as the holes aren't too big. Anyway, I've found the studs just fine but my stud finder is going crazy with the live wire. I find that it even detects live wire on my metal bed frame so maybe it's just detecting metal? I've seen people say just cut wall open or turn off the power but I obviously don't own the place and don't have access to the breakers. Do I just have to give up? I've bought so much stuff for mounting my tv this is so disappointing :( [link] [comments] |
| How would you fix this dented kitchen island? Posted: 23 Jun 2020 01:52 PM PDT Hi y'all. Some jerk at a house party scratched/dented my brand new wood (i think?) kitchen island with a beer bottle. How would you go about fixing this? It's driving me crazy. Thanks. Here are photos: [link] [comments] |
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