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    Tuesday, May 5, 2020

    Home Improvement: Laundry Room Renovation

    Home Improvement: Laundry Room Renovation


    Laundry Room Renovation

    Posted: 05 May 2020 08:46 AM PDT

    My wife and I recently bought a small, older brick home that was built in the 1940's. Bathroom and kitchen were both remodeled, but the laundry room was in bad shape. We knew this going into closing and just figured we'd remodel it ourselves. By no means and I a professional. I just enjoy projects and love the satisfaction of learning a new trade and fixing something myself.

    I tried documenting process and added comments for each pictures.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/m9TuFKZ

    submitted by /u/ArtVandelay1988
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    What are some things you wish you had done immediately when you moved into your house?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 07:39 AM PDT

    Just bought a beautiful house in Texas. Built in 1979 but in great shape minus the usual things (paint, carpet, garage, etc). What are some things you wish you had done immediately when you moved in? Trying to learn from others so we can avoid issues/annoyances in the process!

    submitted by /u/kaybenzzz
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    Explain it like I’m 5.... how to stop toilet from running constantly?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 06:02 PM PDT

    My toilet is a relatively newer model (in the last 10 years it's been replaced, at the latest) and it's Crane brand. The tank constantly leaks water into the bowl and so the tank is wasting water refilling every few minutes. This has caused our water bill to skyrocket.

    I tried cleaning the flapper with vinegar and dish soap, it still leaks. I tried replacing the flapper with one of those universal flappers and yet, it still leaks. What's my next step at this point? I also ran a jug of vinegar through the tank to see if that would clear off any corrosion on the hole that the flapper is supposed to seal. Still leaks.

    We live in the City and so it's city water if that helps give any more insight.

    Please tell me what I should try next!!

    submitted by /u/Baby1121996
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    Is this sump system for well water too excessive, or obsolete?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 05:34 AM PDT

    Do you think diatomaceous earth or borax works better on fleas in yard?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 06:03 PM PDT

    So my yard is now the victim to millions of fleas. I assume it is because my late father left a bunch of random construction supplies in our backyard. So when possums decided to live in there, I assume they brought their numerous friends as well. Once I get rid of this infestation, I am definitely going to get rid of all of his construction stuff. Whenever I step outside with my white socks, I can easily see 20 or so jump onto my leg. I've been using Bifenthrin granules but I don't think its doing its job. In past infestations I've had luck with DE but I've never had an infestation this bad before. Do you guys think borax on my plants/soil would be better than DE?

    submitted by /u/GiggleGlass
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    Need Help with Curb Appeal

    Posted: 05 May 2020 09:00 PM PDT

    Just sold our tiny bungalow, and bought this larger split level to make room for the kids. However, what we gained in space we lost in curb appeal. I'm terrible about picking paint colors. Any suggestions for how we can make this place look better?

    https://imgur.com/quxeLLs

    https://imgur.com/2sl92jG

    submitted by /u/Ahsnappy1
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    Using 2x4s as furring strips on ceiling?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 06:04 PM PDT

    I'm about to remove the dropped ceiling in my kitchen to raise it back to close to the original height. The original ceiling is lath & plaster, but the plaster is in rough shape (possibly why they lowered it in the first place). My thinking is that because there are chunks of the plaster missing that I shouldn't put the drywall straight onto the plaster. I'm planning to use 2x4s flat to the joists as furring strips to even out the height issues with the missing plaster chunks.

    Could I run into any weight carrying issues by adding the 2x4s? Are there any other ways to accomplish what I'm trying to do?

    submitted by /u/TramStopDan
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    HVAC advice desperately needed! Remodeled/renovated Balloon framed house. I think I have an unaccessible damper restricting air flow into 1 room. Detailed explanation/pics in text.

    Posted: 05 May 2020 05:26 PM PDT

    1880 balloon framed town house in south eastern Pennsylvania. It has central air and forced gas heat now and everything is great except for one room (purple room 10'x6') (of two (tan room 14'x10')) on the third floor. I called a reputable service company for an inspection and they brought a duct camera, however they didn't have a SD card so I had to take a picture of the display with my phone. The quality of these images underwhelming to say the least.

    http://imgur.com/gallery/MvbwVVs

    The vent in my problem room, the purple room, is 12"x18", built into the interior wall at floor level, and the duct is is 12"x5" deep rectangular sheet metal of some sort. It has center wire braces every 2' or so attaching the 12" faces. At the bottom of this is what appears to be a damper. I NEED TO GET IT OPEN. It is at least 8' from the vent in the purple room to this damper which I believe is floor level on an interior wall on the second floor. This interior wall is between the hallway and the yellow room. The yellow room has an identical vent as the purple room, but it is on a different interior wall.

    I believe the original heating was coal and this house has gone through who knows how many renovations. The most recent owner was/is a general contractor and generally did a bang up job with the most recent remodel. He lived here for 9 years. The tan room on the third floor gets sufficient heat/AC year round, but it isn't enough to cool the entirety of the third floor.

    DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THIS INFERNAL DEVICE IS AND HOW TO OPEN IT?

    The only thing I can think of is that it is a fire safety damper that was installed and somehow closed. Do I have anyway to access this damper without tearing through 140 year old plaster and lathe? Would there have been a key/handle/toggle of some kind that was accessible from the yellow room on the second floor or the hallway on the second floor?

    Right now my best idea is to attach threaded pipe in 2' foot sections until it reaches this damper and beat on it until it opens up or I destroy the vent. Please help.

    submitted by /u/IH8NAMEGEN
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    How can I make something like this on the side of my house for my mom?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 05:45 PM PDT

    I want to clean up the side of my house for my mom as a Mother's Day gift but I don't know what this sort of activity is called and where to start. Here is a picture of what I want:

    https://ibb.co/dGtBSXs

    How can I learn how to make something like this? Any pointers would be appreciated. :)

    submitted by /u/bigbootyfruity
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    Securing subfloor to joists

    Posted: 05 May 2020 07:53 PM PDT

    I will be buying these flooring screws form HD. Are these the right size and screw? The subfloor is nailed about 12 inches spacing between joists to joists and 6 inches on the joists. These are just rough estimates. I forgot to measure and not currently there. It's not currently squeaking but I would like to secure the floor so it won't squeak in the future. Should I drive a screw beside the nail on all the osb subfloor? If not where should I drive the screw?

    https://www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin--8-x-2-inch-flat-head-square-drive-phosphate-high-performance-floor-screws-500pcs/1000152690

    submitted by /u/dan_335i
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    Grout between shower drain and shower floor has failed. Any way to fix without having to replace entire tile floor?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 06:04 AM PDT

    I've already poured 5 bottles of concrete crack filler thinking that I could backfill from the bottom then regrout.

    Should I keep pouring more or is there another way?

    Pics: https://imgur.com/a/t3gwq6x

    Next steps based on your suggestions so far:

    Use backer rod to plug as deep into space between drain pipe and concrete surrounding drain pipe. Keep filling without trying to fill entire void however large is may be.

    Edits based on questions:

    Edit 1: The holes you see are only around that area and the tie and grout areas are still supported with thinset and concrete below them.

    I tapped throughout to confirm hollowness and chipped away any grout not supported from the bottom.

    Edit 2: When pouring, the liquid funnels from the outside in and moves toward the drainpipe.

    Edit 3: First floor on a slab. No fiberglass pan.

    Edit 4: I know for a fact I am on a slab and there is no space for insulation. I have torn out another shower floor in this house (hence why I don't want to have to do again if avoidable). Different issue where the grout and tiles around bottom perimeter were failing and leaking water into surrounding baseboards and walls surrounding shower.

    There is just concrete slab under a mudpan.

    I'm in South Florida home built in 1982.

    Edit 5: I don't think there is a pipe broken for a few reasons: 1. I can see the water resting in the S or P trap. At the very least I know that portion is intact. That is old water since the shower has not been used in about 2 weeks. 2. Shower has been in use for years since I moved in by guests that stay in this guest room so maybe like 20-30 or so showers a year without another problem reported. 3. When I flush nearby toilet, I can see the water in the P or S trap moves slightly which tells me there is a decent seal in the pipes and the venting is working as water leaves through the drain system. 4. After pouring in 5 quarts and letting it sit for 2 nights, I tested the shower drain by pouring water directly into it and there is still normal drainage.

    submitted by /u/TheMigDig
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    Help with kitchen countertops!!!

    Posted: 05 May 2020 04:48 PM PDT

    Hi there...so our house had ridiculous people living in it before we moved in that decided to tile everything. And by everything I mean walls, the entire kitchen countertop, the shower, kitchen floor, and bathroom floor. Did I mention they used FLOOR TILES???? Needless to say the black floor tiled kitchen countertop has got to go. On a tight budget so I was wondering if anyone had ideas on how to maybe cover it up semi-permanently? We can't remove everything just yet but it's definitely not sanitary having floor tile and grouted counters. Help please!

    submitted by /u/Lexilynn97
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    How to reuse a bathroom vanity that's currently in use?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 05:16 PM PDT

    I have a vanity that's currently set up that I'd like to move to my guest bathroom. However, I just don't see a way to move it without destroying the bottom board. There are small pre-drilled holes for the drain line and water lines, and I'm unable to just lift it up. There's a picture below to show what I'm talking about. Any tips?

    https://imgur.com/ESeYrj8

    EDIT: Cutting the pipes is an option. The long term plan is to remove that plumbing altogether.

    submitted by /u/treygordon
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    What type of insulation is this?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 07:57 PM PDT

    1957 house in PA... Just hoping it's not asbestos.. there are 2 pics.. attic.

    Thanks

    https://imgur.com/a/g14N8uX

    submitted by /u/PropsForward
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    Raised Garden Beds

    Posted: 05 May 2020 07:50 PM PDT

    My mother asked me to help build some garden beds for their back yard. Picked up some materials this morning and put together three 2ft x 10ft raised beds.

    Imgur album: https://imgur.com/gallery/JBE6G6J

    My plan was to use treated 2x4s and build a rough size of 2ft by 10ft and 4 boards high. Calculated that if I got 10ft lengths it would take (31) 2x4s. Made a small miscalculation but had a short piece extra already in the garage that covered what I needed.

    The long sides I left uncut as they were close to 10 ft to begin, only about 1/2 inch longer on each. I then cut the 24 end pieces at 2ft and the 18 support pieces at 14 1/2 inches (the height of (4) 2x4s stacked on their sides).

    I started by laying (4) 10ft lengths side by side and attaching 3 support pieces to each. The end supports spaced away from the edge enough for the sides to not be visible from the front. After making 2 of these I stood them on edge and attached the 8 end pieces screwed from the side so no screws are visible ftom front.

    Each finished box was very heavy as it was very wet treated wood fresh from the lumber yard. I built in the garage as it was raining out half the day. This meant transporting them around the house to the back yard. Chose to load on a utility trailer with an atv to make it easier. Decided for the last 2 boxes I'd back the trailer into the garage and build them on it to make it easier to move later.

    I chose to predrill before screwing. The wetness of the wood made cutting, drilling, and screwing a lot more difficult and tougher on my tools plus the added weight. Should have let it dry a while before starting the project. I think they turned out great. I plan to level them in the yard before filling with soil as the yard is slightly sloped. Total cost for everything was just under $200 (bought from Menards).

    submitted by /u/VetteFan
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    Finally ready to replace all my deck boards. Any advice?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 07:47 PM PDT

    When I bought my house a few years ago, I inherited a pretty weathered deck which I have managed to keep "alive" by replacing individual boards (and rusted joist hangers underneath).

    I am now ready to bite the bullet and replace all of the deck boards completely. However, I have a few questions:

    1. For my individual replacements, I used 16ft 2x6 Pressure Treated lumber delivered from Home Depot, cut them down to 14 ft (width of the deck), and installed them with 3" exterior screws. Can I do the same for the whole deck?
    2. How should I handle spacing between the boards? In terms of climate, I live in the St Louis area and would want to begin this project in the next few weeks.
    3. Is there anything I need to do to the side boards or joists (beyond replacing any more rusted hangers)? Any other considerations once I can actually see under the deck?
    4. There is a partial board and an electrical socket near the sliding door to the deck. Is there anything special I need to consider about that area, or do I just cut a small board to size and put it in.
    5. The deck boards at the start and the end appear to be 2x4s instead of 2x6. Is there a reason for this?
    6. Anything else to consider?
    submitted by /u/Omega037
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    Self adhesive floor tiles

    Posted: 05 May 2020 07:47 PM PDT

    How can I get self adhesive floor tiles to stick to a cement floor? We used a bonding agent to aid specifically for that purpose. It was not working well so we also used loctite spray adhesive. The tiles are popping up a bit, not terribly but about 10% What would be a sure product to get these tiles to stick?

    submitted by /u/dmarieberg
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    Garage Floor Epoxy: DIY Box store stuff or professionally done?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 10:15 AM PDT

    Is it worth it to go with a pro that will prep it up nicely with grinder and I believe the materials they use are higher grade stuff compared to the DIY kits from home depot or similar. I WOULD be utilizing my garage to actually park vehicles so tires would be on there for long periods of time.

    submitted by /u/MoDa65
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    Converting old 2 prong outlets to three

    Posted: 05 May 2020 10:39 AM PDT

    Hi y'all, moved into a new house where all the outlets are old 2 prongs with one hot and one neutral inside the box. I've got new 3 prong outlets and grounding pigtails. Can I safely convert them with only the two wires inside? Pictures for reference, in Tennessee: https://imgur.com/gallery/I2Uy0OI

    submitted by /u/DarthGipper18
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    Need advice on how to paint a part of my house.

    Posted: 05 May 2020 05:04 PM PDT

    http://imgur.com/gallery/BA83p7x

    Not sure if the link will work, I hope it does.

    Basically I need to paint the part of my house that is above a carport. You can't stand on the carport and you can't remove the carport.

    Getting in the roof and leaning over does not give good results.

    Trying to do this on the cheap. Was hoping to find an ingenious way to get this done.

    Tldr; need to paint a part of my house that you can't really get to.

    submitted by /u/noom14921992
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    Glass Block Wall Removal

    Posted: 05 May 2020 08:44 PM PDT

    I want to remove a glass block wall in my bathroom. The block is not attached to the top or sides. It seems to be only secured at the base. I have the proper tools but am wondering if there would be any issues with me removing the wall. Thank you. Glass Block Wall

    submitted by /u/XombieHunter
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    Can I stick Copper Mesh in Soffit Vent Holes

    Posted: 05 May 2020 04:55 PM PDT

    Will sticking Copper Mesh in Soffit Vent Holes without disturbing the natural air flow ventilation they are purposed for? My reason for doing this is to prevent rats, mice, and other critters from using these soffit vents as an entryway into my attic.

    Most of the soffit vents have the traditional mesh fabric stuff sealing them up, on some of the vents though, the mesh fabric stuff has loosened or come undone altogether.

    I was thinking I could just staple mesh fabric around the outside of the vent, because the vents are inaccessible through the attic due to narrowness. Though, aesthetically I thought copper mesh would look, somewhat, nicer.

    submitted by /u/EscoCzar
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    Is it safe to use an appliance that hasn’t been used in 6 months?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 08:23 PM PDT

    Hello all!

    I recently moved into my first apartment (yay me!) and have a bit of a newbie question.

    The home I'm renting was vacant for about 6 months. The owner was going to let her daughter live in it but apparently that plan changed. There was a tenant in the unit before that.

    The apartment looks clean but has a bit of a weird smell, which the owner said would be fine after running taps and whatnot for awhile. I did this and the smell is still there but it's starting to fade.

    I would like to know if it's safe to use the washing machine since it hasn't been used in 6 months. My dad said something about it drying out and told me to get the owner to take a look at it, but the owner said to just run it with a cup of bleach. This is my first time living alone and I don't have any family in the area.

    Can someone please help me be an adult and figure out what the normal thing to do? I assume it was used regularly when the tenant lived there, but no one has really been in the unit since then. Thank you!!

    submitted by /u/Firsttimehome890
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    Can I cut these wires?

    Posted: 05 May 2020 03:23 PM PDT

    I'm painting a room in my house and found a little box on the wall that contained some wires. I think it may be phone related, but the wires look very old and I'm wondering if I can just cut them and push them into the wall. Does anyone have a suggestion?

    Here's a picture

    submitted by /u/GlassTemperature
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    Newly made/installed cabinets fell on my mother. Need advice.

    Posted: 05 May 2020 02:06 PM PDT

    This happened today, about 2 hours ago or so. Finally finished cleaning up, because loads of glass, bunch of pets and a small curious child. Also, sorry for any formatting and the pictures being out of order, I'm on mobile right now. Will fix soon. (Tl;dr at bottom)

    Images: http://imgur.com/a/dcJUxKe

    So, just some back story. Original kitchen cabinets that came with the house (like 40 years old or something) became water damaged after a storm damaged the roof and water seeped down the walls in the kitchen. Insurance company inspected, confirmed the damage and approved coverage. An important point may be that instead of arranging the replacement, our insurance company simply sent a check based on their appraisal of the cabinets.

    Talked to a local cabinet maker, he had great reviews on all the big sites, met with him, he gave us some plans and ideas, gave us a (reasonable seeming) quote, and after a few days we agreed to him building the cabinets. He eventually builds them up, and they look fine, certainly not anything approaching perfect, but fine. This being our first time with a contracting type situation, I was inclined to just shrug off the fiddly bits. So whatever.

    Anyway, back to two hours ago. My mother (who is living with me because she has bouts of sickness where she can non longer live alone) is grabbing a snack for my nephew, who's in the back room with me playing Spla2n on my Switch (go team Mayo!). Then I hear a loud initial crash that's followed immediately by 8 full seconds of crashing and breaking glass. I manage to get to the kitchen just as the last bit falls to find my mother barely holding up at least 50 lbs worth of cabinets (that's 50 lbs beyond what she should be holding), and I'm fortunately able to take it from her so she can navigate her way out while I figure out how to get this down.

    Manage to get everything settled, no ones seriously hurt (I have some glass in my feet, because barefoot) and my mother got away with some scraped palms and is currently "detoxing" from all the adrenaline (lol). I'm finally able to inspect the cabinets and see what the fuck just happened. Turns out, the screws that were used to "secure" them to the wall, were only sticking out of the back by at most half an inch, some not even a quarter of an inch, and only TWO of them per cabinet were going into something other than DRYWALL! Not only that, they were hardly attached to each other, using the same short damn screws. Essentially, the only thing the screws were doing, was keeping the cabinets from sliding down the wall, NOT holding them TO the wall.

    Tl;dr, got money for new cabinets from insurance, new cabinets were installed poorly, fell off the wall onto my mother (thankfully didn't injure her), breaking about $300 worth of food, dishes and appliances. Don't want to sue, just want a refund.

    So, my request is this: how best do I go about approaching this with the builder so as to not screw myself over or hold myself liable for anything? I don't want to sue him, no one has been truly injured, I just want a refund for the cabinets. I no longer have faith in the rest that have been installed thus far (he had to stop midway because covid) and will be getting them removed and replaced by someone else. 100℅.

    submitted by /u/WaffleClap
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