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    Home Unlabelled Home Improvement: I converted my broom closet into an Art Deco inspired Pocket Bar

    Home Improvement: I converted my broom closet into an Art Deco inspired Pocket Bar

    April 17, 2020

    Home Improvement: I converted my broom closet into an Art Deco inspired Pocket Bar

    I converted my broom closet into an Art Deco inspired Pocket Bar

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 07:37 AM PDT

    Social distancing and work from home have meant that I now have quite a bit more time than usual to finally get around to doing some projects I've been planning to for some time.

    Our house came with a broom closet that was made obsolete by our purchase of a roomba. It ended up just being used to pile useless crap and I hated it. This quarantine gave me lots of free time so I decided it was finally time to do something about it.

    The whole build took me about 5 on and off days and a hard push through the weekend. The most labor intensive part was definitely the sanding and finishing of the wood. Seriously, I don't wanna see my orbital sander again for a few weeks.

    The wood used was Padauk, and I feel like it came out gorgeous; almost every cut was done with a circular saw and a clamp on fence/straight edge.

    Its not quite 100%, I still need to add a vent behind the wine fridge. The back wall of the bar is an exterior wall and It should not be too difficult to add a vent with a small fan under PID control.

    There's still a couple more details left to go, like staining the back of the humidor drawer, and I think I want to raise the wine rack a bit, but overall, she's good to go!

    Pocket bar build thread

    submitted by /u/Chipomat
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    Bidet PSA: Beat The Toilet Paper Madness

    Posted: 16 Apr 2020 11:21 PM PDT

    This is my OC, there are no spam/advertising/referrer links. The only links provided are to images hosted on Imgur. I'm simply writing this to help change perspectives.

    First, two questions:

    1. If you got poop on your hands, would you just wipe it off with dry paper or would you wash with soap and water?

    2. Why is the rest of your body any different?

    I'm an American who's been living overseas for the last 2 years. In Southeast Asia, the overwhelming majority of people (I would say 98%) do not use toilet paper, we use a bidet sprayer, or "bum gun." I have been asked many times why "people from my country" are on YouTube fighting each other in Walmart for the last roll of TP and why people are hoarding it, reselling it, and paying over-the-top crazy prices for it now because of the Corona Virus lockdowns. It really is quite ridiculous when you think about it. I was raised with TP in America and used it exclusively until 2 years ago when I left and came to Asia. The bidet has changed my life and I've decided to write this post to explain the different types of bidet products and how and why you should consider incorporating them into your life. It's cleaner, healthier, and best of all, eliminates the need to hoard TP, suffer from out-of-stock anxiety, or pay $30 a roll from a shady character behind 7-11. I'm happy to see the recent increase in interest on this sub regarding the bidet, and I want to try and help nurture this interest.

    I will be the first to admit that until I used one, I thought the bidet was "weird." I didn't understand it, wasn't raised with it, and just had zero interest in trying it. I actually had a strong aversion to it that I had no reason for, it was senseless really. I was just totally happy with TP. I even continued to use TP for my first few days in Asia. Then one day I tried it and never went back. Sure it's a bit strange but just give it a try. I have had so many friends back home install them and fall in love with them. If you can get past the initial weirdness and get used to it (it only takes a few times) I guarantee you will have a different perspective. And you can proudly walk past the TP aisle in Walmart with an accomplished and superior smirk on your face.

    There are a few different styles of bidets at all different price points. They all follow the same concept - using water instead of toilet paper to clean your lower regions (gender depending) after pooping or peeing. There are different styles and they all accomplish the same thing via different methods.

    BENEFITS:

    Using water keeps you cleaner: You can not clean all of the poop off your skin with dry toilet paper. If you disagree with this, put some poop on your hand, wipe it off with dry TP, and then see if are comfortable with going about your day like that. No matter how much TP you use, you will still leave behind a thin film of fecal matter. The moist and warm environment down below harbors and encourages bacteria growth. You will inevitably sweat down there and the poop residue will mix with the sweat and spread itself around your crotch and into your clothing. This can cause odor, itching, and discomfort. Some people use soap along with the bidet - this is the cleanest way but if you can't or don't want to do this, you're still miles ahead of TP just using water.

    Using wet wipes is a better option than dry TP but these are absolutely terrible for sewer systems, septic tanks, and the environment. "Flushable" wipes wreak havoc all over the US and the Wastewater industry hates them. Lots of your tax money is spent unclogging these wipes from municipal waste systems. "Flushable" does not mean safe for sewer systems. This is a marketing gimmick to sell more wipes. You can flush a lot of things(including a bucket golf balls, thanks American Standard), doesn't mean they will break down in the sewer system. Want to see for yourself? Get two buckets of water. Put a handful of toilet paper in one and a single "flushable" wipe in the other. Mix them around and see which one won't clog sewer lines and pumping equipment. Some people throw wipes in the garbage. This is the proper way but now you either deal with the smell or you waste plastic taking the garbage out multiple times a day. These wipes will end up in the landfill where they will take years to break down. Additionally, the cost of wipes adds up and requires constantly spending money.

    Using a bidet is also more hygienic - no need to put your hands near your poop. No risk of poke-through, finger contact, or knuckle-touching toilet water. Granted, you should be washing your hands after using the bathroom in any case, but a bidet eliminates the associated trauma of these things and also reduces your contact with bacteria.

    Swamp ass: If you live in a hot climate, you're likely familiar with this phenomenon. If you sweat, you also sweat down there. Using a bidet to just wash off during hot times is a lifesaver. It's unbelievably refreshing and not only does it bring relief from the hot, sweaty, miserable swamp in your crotch, it also helps prevent heat rash, bacterial infections, just generally feels awesome. Think of it as a cool dip in a refreshing mountain stream for your nether regions.

    Cheaper, more pandemic proof, less anxiety: Many people in the world use a bidet only, some people use a combination of bidet and TP. Many people just wash off, dry for a minute, then go on about their business. I do not like being wet down there so after I wash, I use a single pass of TP to dry. I use about 80-90% less TP than I did without the bidet. The water does all the work, you need very little TP to dry. A single roll of TP lasts me about 2 weeks now. Once you have purchased and installed a bidet, your only cost is the water (and optional electricity) it uses. I estimate my use to be about 20oz/600ml of water per session. You may use more or less water. We waste more than this waiting for the shower to get warm. One of the best benefits to having a bidet is that you no longer have to worry about stores not having TP, or paying exorbitant prices for it. You don't really need TP with a bidet. Worst case scenario if you can't find TP, you can still poop without anxiety.

    Illness/digestive issues/food poisoning: We've all had diarrhea, no need to be shy about it. And we all know the feeling of wiping yourself raw after your 14th trip to the toilet in 24 hours. Or the burning sensation from stomach acid, food poisoning, or spicy food that went right through you. The bidet is a great relief for all of these. A stream of cool water during times like these is amazing and can remove the dread of another trip to the bathroom.

    Cleaning: Many bathrooms in asia are completely tiled, either half way or all the way up the wall and they have floor drains. No drywall or wood used. Because of this, you can use a handheld bidet for cleaning the bathroom (or washing the dog) and wash it all right down the drain. If you don't have a bathroom like this and don't plan a remodel anytime soon, this is kind of a moot point. But if you do, it's an added benefit.

    TYPES OF BIDETS, FROM MOST EXPENSIVE TO CHEAPEST: (Links are only for images, I do not use advertising or referrer links)

    Oldest/Original - The Standalone Bidet:

    Pic

    A separate fixture that is only used for washing after you have used the toilet. It's like a sink for your bottom. It's not really practical for adding to most existing bathrooms and it's expensive because you must purchase it, then add/modify plumbing to accommodate it. Plus you need the space. Aside from that, you have to waddle over to it once you are done on the toilet.

    With this style you use your hand and water/soap to wash yourself.

    Most Luxurious/Most Features - The Bidet Seat(washlet):

    Pic

    This is a bidet that either replaces your current toilet seat or adds onto it, depending on the model. There are a wide range of styles, options, and prices, ranging from around $30 for a basic cold water only model to over $1000 for a full featured model including heated water, heated seat, heated dryer, remote control, and other features. There are models for every price point between, it just depends on what you want. The basic cold-water-only models only require a water connection and if you are even slightly handy, you can hook them up yourself. The more elaborate models require an electrical connection - most American bathrooms won't have this already and you may find it difficult or expensive to find an electrician to install an outlet behind the toilet. However, if you are an electrician you can do this yourself. Amazon has a wide selection of bidet seats, many other retailers carry them as well.

    With this style you only touch the controls to activate the stream of water.

    Most Practical/Easiest/Cheapest - The bidet sprayer (aka Bum Gun):

    Pic

    This is by far my favorite. If you've ever been to Southeast Asia, you know what this is. It's the cheapest, easiest to install, and most versatile to use. It's very basic, and has only 1 moving part. No heated seat, no electrical connection, and you can install it in about 10 minutes with very basic skills and no remodeling. It's essentially the same sprayer mounted on your kitchen sink. If you are handy with plumbing, you can put one of these together with sink sprayer, shower hose, and t-valve. If not, you can buy a kit with all the parts and instructions for $20-$80, depending on how fancy you want it. You can get a good quality/good looking one for less than $30. It connects to the water line on the toilet with a t-valve. You can also get fancy and install a separate water line for it, although this will only be practical during a remodel or new build.

    If you live in a cold climate, it can take some getting used to. I've had a few people back home ask me about hooking this up with warm water. It's possible, but again, it's going to be more time/cost to run a hot water line to the toilet and install a mixing valve. Then each time you use it you will need to let it run for a minute and adjust it just like the shower. Personally, it was super easy for me to get used to cold water(even in the China winter)- it's only a few seconds and only on one area, it's not like you're taking a cold shower. Plus if your house is heated/insulated, the water shouldn't be dangerously cold anyway. If you are handy, the configuration/adaptability possibilities are endless.

    I do suggest that - unless you have a bathroom with a floor drain - you install a shutoff t-valve just in case the sprayer ever leaks. Always install a brass (not plastic) valve, it's worth the extra cost to prevent leaks.

    With this style you use your hand to "aim" the sprayer and squeeze the trigger to wash yourself. There are different styles of washing - some people wash from the front, some people lean to one side and wash from the other side. Either way, I find that this style of bidet gives a direct, thorough, efficient cleaning. If you have strong water pressure, you may have to reduce it (with a valve) to a comfortable level. I have extremely strong pressure but I regulate by how hard I squeeze the trigger on the sprayer.

    I hope this gives you some inspiration and insight into using a bidet. Literally the only adjustment you have to make is in your head. Panic and frenzy over stockpiling TP is really, really silly when you think about it. And even more so after you switch to a bidet. There's enough to stress about these days, it's simple to cross this one off the list.

    Please feel free to either ask questions or add onto this if you have additional insight.

    submitted by /u/Clicktrip
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    Septic that needs pumping every 3 months?!

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 05:47 PM PDT

    Theres a home in my neighborhood for sale It's been dropping in price so I became interested and contacted the listing agent for more info. He told me the home would not qualify for FHA loan because it had a septic that had to be pumped every three months. I asked if it needed a new septic, but he claimed that it was just how the septic was, it was old. I didn't respond yet, but this doesn't seem right.

    Like I said, I have an old home in the neighborhood, it has a septic, and I was able to get an FHA loan for it and it pumps out every 5 years which is standard. Are these guys trying to hide some sort of septic damage? Or is there some crazy retro septic in there?

    submitted by /u/404LostinSpace
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    House sold as connected to sewer, but really has a bad septic system

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 05:35 AM PDT

    I bought a fixer upper house last year that was listed as connected to sewer, but after digging up the main line when it backed up, we discovered it was actually connected to a septic tank that had gone bad.

    After contacting the town, they indicated that it was in fact not connected to the sewer, but the assessment fee had already been paid by the previous owner ~21,000 (talk about a lucky break). However, we are still left with the cost of digging and running a new sewer line to the street.

    The house is clearly listed as 'connected to sewer'. How does this misinformation even happen? Is there anything that can be done for being mislead by the selling agent?

    submitted by /u/memonds
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    First Home- Water Damage in Basement. What do I do?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 05:42 PM PDT

    I have to decide by tomorrow if I want to spend my life savings on this house for my first home . I love everything about this house but the home inspector spotted water damage along the edge of the floor of the basement. I'm from Florida so to me "WATER DAMAGE IS DEATH!!!!", but a few people told me it's way more common in old homes in Maryland which is where this house is.

    The land outside does slope towards the house but there are some limitations to "grading" the land to the side. I plan to live in the basement and rent the top so it's important that it's safe from mold and water damage.

    Here's what the seller's told me:
    We have observed small trickles of water seeping in during extreme rain events. It has been somewhat mitigated by the addition of a buried drainage pipe that comes off the back of the house and redirects water to the front yard. Also, in March we had all of the gutters cleaned out and repaired. Since then, we hadn't observed any water but also it didn't rain hard. More drainage work needs to be done in the back yard to totally get rid of the issue.

    Here's what a contractor want's to do

    Add "Weep Holes" in the block and install a french drain for an internal solution. I'd like to avoid this because they'd have to break apart asbestos tiles.

    What my family member who flips houses said to do

    Hand dig trench with strong drainage grade to the front. Cut out the water damaged wall and wait a year to see if that fixes it. The window makes it impossible to do a typical grade unless you install an undesirable window well.

    Based on the seller and my family member, looks like a unique drainage grade toward the front is the answer do you agree?

    Also:

    1. What kind of contractor do you hire to help or consult with "drainage work"?
    2. I need to cut the wood wall to see if there's mold, do you just cut a hole in it with a saw and how do you fix that afterward? ( I know I'm out of my element but I'm going to be great at this someday)

    Images:
    Inside Damage
    Inside Damage 2

    Inside Damage 3

    Outside Grade

    submitted by /u/fanosffloyd
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    I built a new fence

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 06:09 AM PDT

    I thought some of you might like seeing what my process was:

    https://imgur.com/gallery/d4O6Z4U

    I'm also pondering a good latch solution for my hidden gate if you have any ideas, I'd love to hear them. Details in album.

    submitted by /u/ragbagger
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    Graco Magnum Project Sprayer vs. True Coat 360 VSP

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 08:28 PM PDT

    I actually don't mind the old, tried and true method of brush and roller painting for most things. However, I will soon be painting quite a many things where a sprayer is going to make the jobs easier. Many interior and exterior doors (replacing all during my home remodel), decking (mainly thinking balusters..so many balusters) cabinets. Probably a few more things.

    I have a cheapo HVLP sprayer but gave up on trying to use it because my compressor just doesn't push enough volume. I have to stop and wait very often because of it.

    So, I was thinking a "prosumer" or DIY airless would hit the spot. I see that the smaller Graco Magnum Project Painter Plus (257025) can be had for the near same price as the TrueCoat 360 VSP.

    I know they can't be directly compared as there are some significant differences between the two. Both seem to have similarly scored reviews.

    What would be the better option since price seems about equal, based on experience?

    submitted by /u/shelzmike
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    Advice for repairing cut studs in load bearing external garage wall

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 08:16 PM PDT

    Project Goal: Restore the the support once given by the studs that are now cut in load-bearing exterior wall in the garage. That means removing AC and window currently on wall.

    Problems:

    1) Wall not properly supported. Previous owner placed an AC and a small window in the garage on a load-bearing exterior wall without proper support. I have removed the AC, in which only one stud was cut, and the window, in which two studs were cut.

    2) Joists not level. One side dips more than the other.

    Who: Ideally, a contractor. But that's not an option right now given the state of the pandemic and stay at home orders. Given how unacceptable condition of these studs on a load=bearing wall, I think it's best if I do something immediately, and once things are back to normal, I can have someone take a look at my work. I'm handy, but I'm nowhere near a contractor, but I figure that anything I'm capable of doing will likely be better than leaving it as is. I live in an area with earthquakes, so the last thing I need is for this structure to fall apart.

    How: Either by replacing the studs or sistering on a stud or pair of studs on both sides of the cut studs.

    Where: Southern California.

    Images: Taking actual pictures would be a monumental task at the moment because I would have to clear our so many things. I also don't have a phone to take pics at the moment, but I made this basic representation on Sketchup of the studs and the poor framing around the window.

    https://imgur.com/a/FdgTq9F

    The studs are 16 on center. There are 15 studs total. The view is from the inside of the garage.The first cut stud is where the AC used to be. The two cut studs are where a small window is now located. I didn't include the window itself, but I included the framing that they used. Terrible, I know.

    Questions:

    Q1) Would replacing the stud or adding a sister stud be better?

    Q2) Do I need a temporary support given that the studs are already hanging?

    Q3) If I do need a support, can I place it on the outside?

    Q4) Would the support go all the way across parallel to the wall or just where there studs are cut?

    Q5) There might be some items in the way, so if the support has to be inside, what's the farthest from the wall I could safely place the temporary support?

    submitted by /u/jacktor115
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    Brand new sheets feel MUCH worse after washing?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 08:10 PM PDT

    Hey, sorry I don't know where else to post this. I splurged on bed sheets (says 800 thread count soft sateen weave) and fresh from the package they felt absolutely incredible, almost like silk without being silk.

    I decided to wash them for cleanliness, I used detergent, fabric softener, and laundry beads (in-wash scent boosters). I don't use dryer sheets. I took them out and the sheets feel rough and coarse, just like a $15 set of bed sheets. It doesn't feel anywhere close to the original. What product ruined these sheets? What do I not use next time, and will the sheets ever be silky again? Thank you.

    submitted by /u/CFOGetsPaidFirst
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    Help - confused on what hardware I need to mount something to brick.

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 09:15 PM PDT

    Looking to install this wall-mount hose reel into brick:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Garden-Commercial-Wall-Mount-Hose-Reel-709/206502729

    The installation guide is here:

    https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/63/6348ae17-4672-4bb4-a5b3-8b965d97ce4c.pdf

    Looking at Page 3 of the PDF, I want to do installation #1 (Brick or Masonry Anchor Sleeves), but very confused on what I need to order from Home Depot. If anyone can link me to the proper mounting equipment per the instructions from Home Depot or Amazon (or Lowes), I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

    submitted by /u/haley_joel_osteen
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    Why is a disc sander always recommended for sanding wood siding instead of a narrow belt sander (which I own) and seems like it would be more efficient?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 05:21 PM PDT

    Flooring rehab in heavy use area

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 06:50 PM PDT

    I'm tasked with refinishing a friends stairs. What do y'all flooring folks do when you work on a high traffic area? Tell the client to leave for a few days, make a temporary ramp? I have to let the poly finish dry overnight, but their bedroom is upstairs. Tell them to camp out downstairs? Please advise!

    submitted by /u/Nightstands
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    Weird basement foundation/shelves?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 08:40 PM PDT

    Hey I am starting the process of looking at homes and I did a walk through of this house. I seemed normalish until I got to the basement. It is an unfinished basement which is normal for the cheaper houses in this area but it looks like it is a block foundation that only goes up to about shoulder height. There looks to be cinder blocks coming out of the outside wall into the room about 2-3 feet. It is like this all around the basement.

    I linked an album with pictures from the listing.

    Can anyone let me know what this might be called so I can research it more? Also does anyone know if this might be removable to give the basement about 2-3 feet in every direction?

    https://imgur.com/a/hzXZO0E

    submitted by /u/bobermen1
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    Can you "dye" countertops?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 08:40 PM PDT

    I have brown granite countertops and I don't like them at all. Can they be dyed or stained in a way that I don't have to completely replace them? Is that a thing that exists? Thank you

    submitted by /u/CFOGetsPaidFirst
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    Help upgrading to soft-close hinges?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 08:20 PM PDT

    While i'm home for a while I decided to finally get around to upgrading to soft-close hinges on my cabinets. I did some research and found that Blum was generally the recommended hinge company, so I bought several (1 per door).

    I'm in over my head! Two issues:

    1. My old hinges are by Salice, and seem to use some kind of eccentric screw on the door. These don't appear to be removable from the Salice hinge, and the Blum hinges seem to be made for a standard screw. Is there any way to fix this?
    2. The mount on the cabinet side doesn't match up with my Blum hinges (which didn't come with a mount). I'm not sure if I need to remove another piece (see photo) or just buy different mounting plates.

    Original Salice hinge: https://i.imgur.com/OBMHHGO.jpg

    Salice hinge removed (Salice mounting plate remains): https://i.imgur.com/xcIwFn1.jpg

    New Blum hinge: https://i.imgur.com/SlRL8WJ.jpg

    Old Salice hinge with eccentric screw: https://i.imgur.com/cPvWeWl.jpg

    ​

    Maybe I need to go a different direction to achieve a soft close? Any suggestions?

    submitted by /u/masturbathon
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    Thoughts on HUGE estimate difference

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 05:59 PM PDT

    Looking at getting dry-set flagstone patio + walkways installed, overall project looking at 7-800 sqft. Have gotten two companies to come out and give estimates of labor, materials, haul off etc. Both companies are well established in our city. One company stated that we'd not likely need full excavation of the existing soil, since it's very compacted clay, and would be ok with just a few inches removed, DG base added. Lots of good one on one communication. They quoted just over 2.5k. The second one's estimate called for deeper excavation, crushed concrete in addition to DG. They quoted just over 19k. I definitely understand differences due to materials source, labor costs and similar, but 17k? What gives? Just wanting to make sure I'm not being a complete doof about something major!!

    submitted by /u/RosieNotARiveter
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    How to attach post to porch vinyl soffit?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 05:47 PM PDT

    I will be adding railings to our front porch with a roof overhang.

    I want to remove the dates wrought iron decoratice post and then put two 4x4 wooden posts on either side of the steps.

    https://i.imgur.com/cGCEokJ.jpg

    The problem is that the two front rail posts will run full height to the roof soffit. They're not structural, only decorative columns and if they're long enough, maybe just bolting them to the porch ledger will be enough?

    Are there any suggestions on how to attach these columns to the horizontal vented vinyl soffit so they don't feel loose?

    Also, what kind of brackets would you recommend for the concrete?

    submitted by /u/anaaki
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    Under-cabinet Lighting Wiring Questions

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 07:58 PM PDT

    We have some old warm lighting units under the cabinet installed by the previous owner. My wife wants me to replace them with LED and bigger units. I took a look at them and think I have what was done figured out.

    It appears to me that these were plug and play units that were meant to be plugged into a receptacle, but instead, the plug was cut off and they wired them to the outlets that were near each unit.

    My plan is to replace this with direct wire units. Should I remove the wiring from the old units completely and run new romex, or just clip the connectors off and use that wire? Additionally, should I be removing this from the outlet posts and instead pig tail the wires and add a third to go from the pigtail to the outlet posts?

    Pictures

    submitted by /u/boardatwork18
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    Installing hardwood floors gradually and then finishing at once?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 07:47 PM PDT

    I am looking to install oak floors myself throughout my house (2,500 square feet). Most of the work will be done on weekends. I plan to start upstairs in the bedrooms and finish in the kitchen last. I expect the project will take a while. Once I am done installing I plan to have the floors professionally sanded and stained. Can I wait till the floors are installed everywhere before I have them finished? Will living on the floors damage them beyond what can be removed during sanding?

    Has anyone else done this?

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/kimberdw1911
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    Well pump problem help!

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 07:46 PM PDT

    I have a problem that has been going on with my well pump. If I am running the gargen hose or even drawing a bath for my son the well pump will drop below the call and not kick on. I can manually pressurize the tank and it will be ok after. Showering, laundry and dishes not an issue. Why is it shutting off or not allowing it to stay running and how can I fix it. Thanks

    submitted by /u/Oncrash
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    What am I doing wrong?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 07:32 PM PDT

    I've been trying to drill holes into a plaster wall to mount a tv for one of my friends. Their home was built in 1914, so the walls are primarily plaster and lath. I know I have two options to either drill into a stud or use toggle bolts. I was using the snaptoggle bolts, but drilling into plaster is really difficult. It's easy to make the pre-drill hole and the initial hole, but once I get further than that, it's really tough to make the hole round enough to secure the bolt. I ended up drilling a hole way too big for the toggle bolt to fit securely. Are there any tips or a better technique to drill into a plaster wall that I'm missing out on? I almost gave up entirely because I didn't think it'll be this tough. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

    submitted by /u/newclassic360
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    Article said not to clean bare wood siding with TSP because it's caustic but before scraping paint it is fine. Any idea why?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 05:19 PM PDT

    How to get a stuck screw out of plaster?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 07:21 PM PDT

    Moved into 120 year old house six months ago. The previous owners hung curtains over French doors and I've been bothered by the one bracket we couldn't seem to unscrew. Today seemed like a good day to tackle that one thing that's been bugging me. After a lot of effort, I got one of the screws out of the bracket using vice grips. Both screws were drilled into the wall without anchors. One of the screws will not budge. At all. It's about a seven inch screw. Now I have a damaged plaster wall behind a metal bracket I cannot remove. I've accepted that the screw will stay in the wall. The best scenario is to get the head of the screw off, slip off the bracket and patch the wall. What's the best tool to cut the head off the screw? This has become one of those stupid projects you think is going to take five minutes and it consumes you. Any ideas would help now that I won't rest until I've beat this screw.

    submitted by /u/kate515
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    Concrete pitting?

    Posted: 17 Apr 2020 07:16 PM PDT

    All around foundation where it meets the dirt/mulch there is what looks like pitting (this the right term?) in the concrete. Here is what I'm talking about:

    https://imgur.com/yCZb1HZ

    Is this cause for concern? The house is little over 20 years old. If it is a problem, what should I do?

    submitted by /u/smblt
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