Home Improvement: How to protect doors from being destroyed from slamming |
- How to protect doors from being destroyed from slamming
- Noob question: How do I get the fish tape back in?
- Insulating garage of a rented house for cheap
- Still loads of water under basement floor with sump pump
- What happened to the finish on our stovetop and can it be fixed?
- *Home Improvement Beginner Here* Water Damage to hardwood floors - is it fixable?
- Advice repairing rotten floor joists above garage
- Is this estimate fair for an outlet relocation.
- Basement laundry room help for first home buyer
- Thoughts on removing the doorbell?
- I live in one city but my address is for the neighboring city and neither will take my trash?
- Hiring a contractor, what to include in a contract?
- Noob question: scratches in lacquer table
- Low quality cabinet drawers - preventing further damage
- Caulk question
- Outlets and light fixtures not working - electrician can’t figure out what’s going on
- was replacing a drumroll on my Maytag dryer mdet236azw and accidentally disconnected a wire...not sure where it goes between 4 options to plug it in. Picture included.
- I’d like to do a massive upgrade on my stove ventilation hood and I don’t know if what I want exists (details inside) ...
- Re tiling fireplace hearth that is not level
- Help! Purchased home with raindrop chandelier & I'm at a loss on how to clean it!
- Cracked and swollen drywall
- People who have taken contractors to claims court, at what point did you decide that was what needed to happen?
- Custom Door Jamb
- Terrible garage floor
| How to protect doors from being destroyed from slamming Posted: 29 Dec 2020 06:38 AM PST We have an adopted son who is dealing with a number of emotional issues and has acted out in rages that are increasingly causing more damage. We have already been working on counseling, medications, methods, etc. So I wanted to get that part out of the way since this is home improvement so you understand I'm not just looking for something to quiet a door from being shut a little too hard. I could use some recommendations for how I can add some sort of mechanisms to an entry door that is a sliding glass door as well as your traditional interior doors. he already shattered one door from slamming it so hard. But I still need to be able to fully shut doors and secure them. Perhaps some sort of a bungee device for the sliding door and some sort of spring hinge for interior doors? I'm not really a carpenter or handy person so I don't know what options are out there though I continue to look. I thought those of you who are into home improvement might already have a number of suggestions for things I can put in place to protect our doors from being shattered. Thank you for any options you may provide. [link] [comments] |
| Noob question: How do I get the fish tape back in? Posted: 29 Dec 2020 02:53 PM PST How to get the fish tape back in the roller? https://imgur.com/gallery/jTHiRmC [link] [comments] |
| Insulating garage of a rented house for cheap Posted: 29 Dec 2020 05:28 AM PST Hey all, my girlfriend and I are renting this house that, at the moment, feels so perfect to us and we are thinking of living here for at least 5 more years. One thing however is bothering us and it doesn't seem likely that the house owner would fix it. The house has a veranda and a garage on the left side, but both are very poorly insulated. We were both thinking that we would be able to insulate the garage ourselves, but as it isn't our own home, we would try and do it on the cheap side. Does anyone have any experience with doing this and if so, what would you suggest? Currently the garage is simple concrete slab walls (3 inches thick) and asbestus corrugated sheets as roof. (the simple 70's garage solution...). The garage door is a simple metal door. If needed, I can post pictures of the room. [link] [comments] |
| Still loads of water under basement floor with sump pump Posted: 29 Dec 2020 03:40 PM PST So about 5 weeks ago we had a french drain and I've got some plumbers here installing the rough in for a bathroom in the basement. They broke up the floor and there's still this much, I can't imagine this is normal, but it also lines up with my sump pump having to run about every 5 minutes. I've put a picture link below for reference...not sure what to do about this. Then again, I don't really know anything about this stuff so maybe this is a normal situation under certain conditions. Just wanted to get some opinions before I called the water proofing company. [link] [comments] |
| What happened to the finish on our stovetop and can it be fixed? Posted: 29 Dec 2020 11:05 AM PST We moved into this house in mid 2018. The stove was brand new at the time and there was no owner's manual left to my knowledge. This is the burner we most frequently use and the finish has been in this state for a long time at this point. It seems obvious to me that it is damaged because it does not improve with cleaning. But I'm not sure what we did to cause this. Neither of us have had a stove with this finish in the past. I'm not even sure what material it is. Is it ceramic? [link] [comments] |
| *Home Improvement Beginner Here* Water Damage to hardwood floors - is it fixable? Posted: 29 Dec 2020 07:09 PM PST My boyfriend and I are just about to start kitchen renovations in our apartment, the work starts next week. One thing we weren't planning on doing was the floors, they are real hardwood and in great shape. About 3 months ago we had a new dishwasher installed and just recently discovered that it had been very slowly leaking since the initial install. It wasn't a huge leak, it didn't affect any of the suites below, there was just a slow, steady drip that would occur every time we ran the dish washer. We dried it all up, fixed the leak and moved on. Now, 2 weeks later... the floors are turning black :( Is this fixable, or should we add new flooring on to the reno project? It is the same flooring throughout the whole place (just shy of 800sqft) and we have budgeted this out pretty perfectly. I'd love to not replace the flooring if possible! Pic included :) [link] [comments] |
| Advice repairing rotten floor joists above garage Posted: 29 Dec 2020 06:50 PM PST I have a detached garage with a living space above it and some of the floor joists for the second level are rotting on the end where they sit on the top plate of the exterior wall for the garage. I need to repair these rotten joists and am considering a sister joist. I have included some mockups of the setup; the floor decking is not shown and the floor joists are sitting next to the roof rafters. Side view of the framing setup for the building: https://imgur.com/AeBPp7b An example of a rotten floor joist: https://imgur.com/gGuPnR3 Cutting out the rotten portion of the floor joist and a sister joist on the side running to the top plate: https://imgur.com/kMHSC90 Butting a new floor joist piece to the cut out and then a sister joist splicing the two pieces together: https://imgur.com/rSgfOu9 Butting a new floor joist and extending the sister joist all the way to the top plate: https://imgur.com/fZB7mmc Are any of these methods acceptable ways to do the repair and how long should the sister joist extend back on the existing joist? [link] [comments] |
| Is this estimate fair for an outlet relocation. Posted: 29 Dec 2020 01:49 PM PST So my wife and I just closed on a house and we're looking to relocate the outlet behind our washer and convert it to GFCI. The outlet is 2" below the water inlet and the location really makes no sense. We were quoted 550 USD after taxes to relocate the outlet 1ft above the fixture in addition to installing a GFCI breaker/outlet. We're located in the Pacific Northwest in the US and the company is a slightly larger local one that a lot of people use and recommend. Edit: You guys have been extremely helpful and I'm glad I posted here. I called the electrician I originally got the estimate from and told them that I wanted to have the outlet converted to GFCI and keep it in its location. I have a few other things that I'd like him to look at as well so that should hopefully make the trip worth it for both of us. Also, I tested the outlet and it is definitely not GFCI. Thank you to everyone who replied. Cheers! [link] [comments] |
| Basement laundry room help for first home buyer Posted: 29 Dec 2020 07:21 PM PST Hey everyone, Long time listener, first time caller here. My fiance and I purchased our 1st home back in February before we all had to hunker down for the pandemic, which allowed for a lot of DIY time. Since then I've focused most of my time and effort to giving the backyard a complete redo. Now that winter is here, I have turned to updating our mostly-finished basement. The laundry washer/dryer is located in one of the not-so-finished section (see picture attached). Although I am grateful that we have both, every time I do the laundry I frown at the washer/dryer set up. I am hoping to take on the DYI project of finishing the unfinished section of the basement, and would like to find a new home for the washer/dryer, preferably in the closet located next to the room where they are currently located (2nd picture). I have 2 questions for you guys: 1) Can the washer be placed lower than it currently is (I've read that the max height distance between the bottom of the washer to where the drain hose empties is 8 feet), and 2) any suggestions as to how to improve this overall eye sore. The current drain hose is draining into the PVC pipe in the center of the 1st picture. I'm planning on putting a workshop somewhere in the area, so I would like to keep one side of the peg wall if possible. Thanks in advance for any advice! https://imgur.com/a/D14C9AP [link] [comments] |
| Thoughts on removing the doorbell? Posted: 29 Dec 2020 06:04 PM PST Our house is small (~1200sqft), so we can hear a knock from any room. Also, all the doorbell seems to do is agitate our dogs; however, I've never seen a house without one. Anyone ever done this before? [link] [comments] |
| I live in one city but my address is for the neighboring city and neither will take my trash? Posted: 29 Dec 2020 06:49 PM PST Not sure if this is the best sub but I am at a loss. I live outside of a large city, and my address has that city for the address. However, all of my neighbors' address is for the small town adjacent to the big city and that town collects their trash. They will not collect our trash however because our house is registered to the city.The city says they do not come out there for trash as that is the adjacent town. Anybody ever deal with this before? I am at a loss of what to do or who to call. [link] [comments] |
| Hiring a contractor, what to include in a contract? Posted: 29 Dec 2020 04:15 PM PST We want to re-do our master bath and bedroom. This will include moving a wall, re-drywalling and insulating the bedroom and a full, to the studs bathroom tear out. My preference is that we will supply all finish materials so that EVERYTHING is on site before we start anything. In previous renos we've had delays due to material availability as well as other crappy reasons. My concerns are staying on budget and TIME. I don't want to live in a war zone for an indefinite time. Anyone with solutions that worked? This project is just too big for us to attempt. [link] [comments] |
| Noob question: scratches in lacquer table Posted: 29 Dec 2020 07:58 PM PST Very new to home improvement. I have a modern white lacquer kitchen table with a satin finish. It doesn't have any deep scratches but tons of really faint scratches all over the table from sliding plates, etc. anything I can do to repair all these tiny scratches? Thank you!! [link] [comments] |
| Low quality cabinet drawers - preventing further damage Posted: 29 Dec 2020 04:49 PM PST Recently the front of a kitchen cabinet drawer box broke. The drawer was in pretty rough shape anyways so I just replace it. Fast forward a few weeks and I'm noticing that all the drawers are starting to separate there and I'm trying to stop/slow the damage. Is there a good way to repair and reinforce the joint? I was going to just try to squeeze it back in place and use a combination of small nails and adhesive, but it would require a lot of force and I'm afraid of adding more stress. I also thought about just putting a small piece of wood in the corners and using some screws and adhesive, but not sure if that's the best way to go. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Dec 2020 06:26 PM PST I am remodeling a bathroom and there is a floor vent. Am I supposed to caulk the vent cover to the floor? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments] |
| Outlets and light fixtures not working - electrician can’t figure out what’s going on Posted: 29 Dec 2020 04:20 PM PST Two of my outlets and a light fixture in guest bathroom stop working after plugging in a shop vac. Tester shows an open neutral. I called an electrician. He checked all boxes and switches on that circuit, but found nothing. What could be the culprit if there's nothing loose inside the box? Also can I close (put to "ON") that breaker? My electrician said he doesn't think there's a fire hazard but also kind of hard to tell. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Dec 2020 01:53 PM PST Model of my dryer : maytag mdet236azw, from Canada while replacing my drum roll, the top fell and disconnected a wire. i'm not exactly sure where its original position was and i'm worried about blowing up the unit by disconnecting it in the wrong place. i have provided a photo here : https://i.imgur.com/OUdhv2C.png Between all 4 options, number 3 seems most probable because the socket doesn't look "rusted" compared to number 1, 2 and 4. Based on the angle the way the wire bends, number 3 seems also likely, however, I'm uncertain and just deducting and would like some confirmation. EDIT : looking at the parts, looks like it belongs to the terminal block : https://www.partselect.com/PS11743293-Whirlpool-WP61923-Terminal-Block.htm so technically, with the 6 prongs, it's actually three pairs - where the first two 1+2 are connected, 3+4, and 5+6. i took a multimeter and checked for connectivity to the prong (which is 4 pront). 3+4 is ground. 5+6 is one side of the prong and 1+2 is the other side of the prong. Based on this wiring diagram : https://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/M0610230-00006.png I think the top left is where the terminal block is. If I understand correctly, BU = blue, WH = white (which is where it is connected to 3+4 and yellow is connected to 5+6. So previously I connected my Blue wire to 3 and ran the dryer for awhile. It seemed to be working fine - after consulting the wiring diagrams, it looks like Blue is supposed to connect to 1+2. I have it connected to 1 right now and it seems to be working fine, too. Now I'm just worried if my previous connection may have damaged something. Seems like it is connected to the overload protector... [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Dec 2020 10:51 AM PST My stovetop ventilation hood works okay, not great but passable. I would like it to move about 2 or 3x as much air as it does because we use it a lot, both for cooking and I even use it for venting the gross smoke from soldering work. But perhaps more importantly: it's loud as fuck. Oppressively loud. I have done basic servicing on it like checking for a blocked airway and cleaning the grille filter: there is no obvious problem. It's just loud. What I'd like is to move the fan motor and impeller far away, up into the attic space where we won't hear them as much. The fan already runs air up a pipe and out the roof - so I'm just wondering: why not put the fan closer to the "out" side and away from the "in" side? Ideally all we would hear when we turn on the hood is a big sucking sound of air moving. Is this an upgrade anyone has heard of? Or will I have to handle it totally custom? [link] [comments] |
| Re tiling fireplace hearth that is not level Posted: 29 Dec 2020 07:08 PM PST Hey guys. Working on re-tiling our fireplace hearth. Since it is original, circa 1930 it's 1" quarry tile on a mud.job that I'm pulling out. The mud job is in good shape, but not level. Right now the high point is about 1/2" from the hardwood floor and the low point is about 7/8". What should I use to level out ? The tile we are replacing it with is 3/8" marble 3x8" [link] [comments] |
| Help! Purchased home with raindrop chandelier & I'm at a loss on how to clean it! Posted: 29 Dec 2020 03:59 PM PST We recently moved to a home that has a raindrop crystal chandelier (it looks like this). There are dozens of strings hanging from the top and each has 2 crystals, one at the bottom of the string & a smaller crystal placed above to form the sphere shape. If you knock/blow one string it obviously swings around and potentially gets twisted with it's neighbors. The previous home owners weren't neat freaks to say the least and this light could use a good cleaning. There are a couple pieces of dust between the strings at the top that drive the craziest...but also I'm sure the crystals could use a good wipe down. I'm afraid if I try to get the dust off the strings, I'll inevitably wipe some of the crystals which will only highlight how dusty the other ones are. I can't find any info on how to clean this lamp without creating a "hair ball" or losing my mind. Does any one have any experience or tips?! Any help is greatly appreciated!! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Dec 2020 02:18 PM PST Hi all, I've got this awful looking corner in my bathroom that's swollen and falling apart towards the edge of the bottom tile. I'd like to fix it but I'm not sure what the best way to go about doing so is. I was thinking of breaking off as much as I can with a putty knife and then filling it in with quick dry spackling. Should I be using wire mesh for something like this too? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Dec 2020 01:43 PM PST I had a tile guy do about 4K worth of work to my bathroom. It's trash work... like quality is bad. BUT NOW it's start to literally fall apart. Grout is coming up. Grout is cracked. Tile was cracked at the end of his job here. I could go on an on but the point is I feel incredibly ripped off and as if this job is in fact not complete... wondering if anyone else who has gone through this can share their story I would appreciate it. I'll add an edit now. He's ghosted me completely. Two months no response with constant email from my end. He came back and fixed the 1" slope on the shower curb and some grout that was falling out, that has since crumbled. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Dec 2020 02:11 PM PST I have to make a custom interior door jamb for my bedroom because it's an existing extension off the back of my house. With the drywall the rough opening will be 9" deep. What kind of wood do I use for this, and where in a Lowe's/Home Depot would it generally be stocked? I'm assuming it's not the low grade stuff stocked near the studs, but I'm hoping it's not the really high grade stuff like the unfinished molding because that's pretty expensive. I'm assuming it would be 1x10 that I might have to rip down with my table saw. My dad also brought up the possibility of plywood (but that seems wrong to me). [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Dec 2020 03:23 PM PST I have a garage floor that looks like it was done without any effort to make it smooth. It literally looks like they just dumped concrete and smoothed it out with MAYBE a shovel. It seems strong and is not cracking. Can terrible concrete jobs be resurfaced? I'd say it's about 3" of altitude between dips and bumps. Would it be possible to grind down some of the peaks and pour a new 2 or so inch surface? Or do I have to completely redo it? example pic [link] [comments] |
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