Home Improvement: If you have Roku, you should know there's a This Old House channel. |
- If you have Roku, you should know there's a This Old House channel.
- First time using an airless sprayer. JEEEZUS did I mess it up.
- Any harm in blocking condo air vent?
- Wires to alarm window sensors
- High End LVT vs. Engineered Hardwood
- Stair Project - RetroTread
- Does noone make midway screwless wallplates?!?
- Painting Pros: When painting a room do you brush paint edges twice and then roll ceiling twice or alternate between edges and rolling?
- Why is my siding so messed up 2 years into home ownership? How do I fix it?
- Not a big project, but fixed the leaking shower!
- Excavation close to house foundation with mini excavator
- How to remove old shower caulk?
- 2 of 4 Ceiling Hooks Hit Metal/Joist
- Replacing a slab door, the new one just barely won't fit into the frame
- Dryer duct might be the most pain in the ass thing.
- Could use some help/advice with peel and stick flooring
- Installed new bathroom sink drain, it's leaking (photos included)
- My bathtub paint is chipping how can I repair this?
- Questions about inspections/new home ownership
- 3 lights wired to one switch. How can I turn off 2 lights and keep 1 on?
- Project: Phase 1 of My Kitchen Remodel
- Flooring choice for kitchen/dining/entryway remodel
- Mildly satisfying video of my new radiant floor loop filling for the first time
| If you have Roku, you should know there's a This Old House channel. Posted: 07 Nov 2020 05:07 PM PST Maybe this is common knowledge but today I discovered there is This Old House Channel on the Roku TV channel. It's non-stop This Old House episodes, in order, 24x7. Just thought I'd share. [link] [comments] |
| First time using an airless sprayer. JEEEZUS did I mess it up. Posted: 07 Nov 2020 01:59 PM PST I sprayed way too close and didn't move fast enough and the dripping is CRAZY. Am I stuck with just sanding this down and trying again once it's dry or do I have any other options? [link] [comments] |
| Any harm in blocking condo air vent? Posted: 07 Nov 2020 02:21 PM PST Hi, I live in a condo. There is an air vent which connects me to the neighbor above me and I can hear loud conversations through the vent. I'd like to put some sound deadening isolation over the air vent - is there any harm in doing this? It's winter here so my windows will be mostly closed. The air vent is not for heating or cooling, it's just for air flow (not sure how necessary it is). [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Nov 2020 04:05 PM PST When removing an old wired alarm system, can I just cut the wires to the window sensors and tuck them in the wall / window frame or are they dangerous? I don't see a way to pull them out. [link] [comments] |
| High End LVT vs. Engineered Hardwood Posted: 07 Nov 2020 06:16 PM PST We just bought a house and are completely remodeling it. Have a decent budget to spend, as we are super frugal (for most things in life) and have saved for many years to do this. For our house we are doing diy in some areas, saving in some other areas and are doing a few "splurge" projects... like flooring. Anyway, I have been researching non-stop. I have ordered probably 40 samples from all over. I have really liked a handful of them. Most being engineered hardwood. Specifically, I've found a great look from Mohawk's Modern Classic TecWood line. I also saw a couple LVT planks that I didn't completely hate. If it came down to looks, Engineered Hardwood wins hands down. I honestly am not crazy about LVT but only like it for durability. I've seen family members with real hardwood floors and pets and lots of visitors wearing shoes in their house and their floors still look good, years later. So is it really that bad to have hardwood or Engineered Hardwood? Anyway, a little background info regarding the use of the floors.... we have very large extended families that live close, so usually holidays can consist of 30-40 people in the house. Immediate family is nearly 15 people. (Our house will be lived in) We don't have kids yet, but plan to very soon. We do have a 40 lb French Bulldog and a cat, but she doesn't scratch our house up. The product would be going through the entire house, minus the bathrooms and basement. Would be in all main areas including kitchen. Looking at around 1400 sq ft. Of product. Another think to keep in mind is... we are in a higher end neighborhood for our town, not luxury level.. but still nicer. We plan on being in the house for anywhere from 6-7 years, then hope to profit and move on. So, investment and resale value is key here. What would you recommend? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Nov 2020 05:19 PM PST I've taken from this sub many times so I thought I'd share my experience (aka rookie mistakes) on a COVID project I've seen a lot of people doing. Photos and TL;DR captions here House was built in 2005 and it's been better to us than we have to it. Many DIY attempts... some successes and some failures. This one is a success so far and probably the quickest project we've ever almost finished at around 6 weeks. We're pretty slow workers... The stairs were carpeted and, while we weren't the biggest fans of it, it was fine for some time. Over the last few years my sweet cats have pointed out that it's not fine by yanking all the carpet thread from the bottom treads. I can take a hint, so one random evening without doing any research we just pulled up some of the carpet expecting to find something we could paint or stain underneath. Alas! OSB risers and treads! After studying at the University of YouTube, we settled on using the red oak RetroTreads from Lowe's. Home Depot has a similar if not exact same product. It came in 36" lengths and needed to be cut down just a hair and the back of the tread trimmed to fit. After using the circular saw and multi tool to remove the overhand on the OSB treads (the longest part of the job) we were able to install the new treads. A word of warning, order extras as a few arrived with splits in them which delayed us a few days. For ~$30 a tread it's worth double checking the quality before installing them because they will be difficult to pull back out. Riser covers were the cheapest 4 x 8 veneer Home Depot had in stock. According to my degree, you should use the Bostic Tread Loc adhesive along with a finish nailer to prevent creaking, but under no circumstances should Liquid Nails or other water-based adhesive be used. Had some sticker shock here as it's $10 a tube and we used 7. Yeah, $70 on glue. The hardest part for us was keeping the aforementioned sweet cats off the stain/poly and we had to have piano stairs for a while because we literally use this staircase every day. Stain and poly took longer to cure than the instructions on the side of the can said, so I ended waiting around a day for each application. Wood conditioner also came in clutch and helped me get a smoother look compared to some of my other projects that shall not be named. Overall it was pretty straight forward, but it was an annoying project if you're slow like us. And yes final trim paint is needed but I can't bear another home improvement trip to SW just yet. Feel free to critique or volunteer any crucial steps (lol) we probably missed! [link] [comments] |
| Does noone make midway screwless wallplates?!? Posted: 07 Nov 2020 05:03 PM PST Looking to buy screwless wallplates because I think they look nicer. I bought standard size and I'm not getting enough coverage. Turns out I can't find a midway size from anyone. I have Decora devices as well. Are these not made? I can't see why not. Thanks [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Nov 2020 11:20 AM PST My partner and I can't decide on best approach. Might be inconsequential either way, but wanted to get some pro input. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Why is my siding so messed up 2 years into home ownership? How do I fix it? Posted: 07 Nov 2020 05:10 PM PST We are located in Atlanta, Georgia. When we purchased our home two years ago, the inspector said the house had some of the best siding upkeep he had seen. But here we are two years later, and all the siding looks... gross and crackly. It can't be scrubbed clean, and there are lots of places where it's cracked, and I'm pretty sure water is coming in. It's like this all over the house. Pictures here. So I guess my questions are: Why is it doing this? How do I fix it? Thanks in advance, y'all! [link] [comments] |
| Not a big project, but fixed the leaking shower! Posted: 07 Nov 2020 11:28 AM PST http://imgur.com/gallery/JRkMGUb 50$ for this stupid cartridge! Fixed the dripping and the squealing though. [link] [comments] |
| Excavation close to house foundation with mini excavator Posted: 07 Nov 2020 05:49 PM PST Hey, I'm considering doing my own drainage and renting a mini excavator. I'll respect the 45 degree load line of course. Any tips on getting close to the foundation with a mini excavator? Any specialty attachment which would be very useful? Cheers, anonWilder [link] [comments] |
| How to remove old shower caulk? Posted: 07 Nov 2020 08:16 PM PST I think they used silicone then went over it with acrylic caulk (https://imgur.com/gallery/tbeQtxh). I've been using Goof Off caulk remover and a bleach water solution, but it doesn't seem to help much. Not even gonna address all that gunk that was hiding under there. Excuse the blood that is in one of the pictures, accidentally cut myself with a utility blade lol. [link] [comments] |
| 2 of 4 Ceiling Hooks Hit Metal/Joist Posted: 07 Nov 2020 08:11 PM PST Hi, trying to hang a pot rack. I want 4 ceiling screw hooks. Two are fine but the two closer to the camera i hit something metallic above plaster. The blue tapes mark the outer edges. The ones in the middle are where the holes are to be. Edge to edge is about 4 inches, so i assume they are the TJI joists, and they are 16 inches apart. I dont know much about home construction. The ceiling here (kitchen) is to the floor of the second level of townhouse. I use the Vigiro large metal hook (good for 50 lb each). I dont know why the metal on TJI. Any suggestions? Ok to drill thru metal (what hooks should i use)? Thanks for the help. pict of rack here/5vblVC0) [link] [comments] |
| Replacing a slab door, the new one just barely won't fit into the frame Posted: 07 Nov 2020 06:35 PM PST I'm replacing a bunch of doors around the house. Most are 30x80 and I'm replacing them with your basic 30x80 Home Depot hollow core pre bored slab doors. I got one up on the hinges today, and tried to close it, but it's like a millimeter or two too wide. It hits the frame when I try to close it. I'm not sure what to do. I've used a circular saw to trim off a couple inches from the bottom of doors before, but I think this is far too little to trim for that. A belt sander maybe? [link] [comments] |
| Dryer duct might be the most pain in the ass thing. Posted: 07 Nov 2020 09:16 PM PST I had to run about 12+ feet of dryer duct today and my god that is one of the most annoying things I've ever done. Is there an easy way of sliding the duct over the attachments or is it really just that annoying every time? I don't see why I was told to slide 4'' diameter duct over a 4'' exhaust port. Is this normal ? I wanted to rip my hair out [link] [comments] |
| Could use some help/advice with peel and stick flooring Posted: 07 Nov 2020 08:57 PM PST How do I fix/correct this? A bunch of guys came together to help our friend remodel their camper but all our first time experience with peel and stick.. Just trying to help our friend out and make it look nice :) [link] [comments] |
| Installed new bathroom sink drain, it's leaking (photos included) Posted: 07 Nov 2020 06:31 PM PST Photos at: https://imgur.com/a/B46RaoZ
#2. In photo #1, you can see there's a gap between the sink and the wall. I tried pushing it as close to the wall as I could, but that's as far as I could get it - the piping prevents me from getting it like 1 cm closer, and it's just the way it sits. I know you're supposed to add caulking back there, but the gap is pretty big as you can see. Should I just add globs and globs of caulking back there? Or maybe put some cardboard back there first and then caulk it? Thanks guys... I'm so close to finishing... I want to finish this! Update: I managed to fix the first problem (the leak). It turns out I DID need to use the other mystery rubber gasket. I noticed this when comparing my old one to the new one. I put it on the bottom, and then used the other flat rubber ring I was using previously, and put it on the top part of the sink, right above the putty. Still had some leaks for a while, but did more adjusting and tightening, and it seems to be leak free now, thanks! Still have the big wall gap issue to solve though. [link] [comments] |
| My bathtub paint is chipping how can I repair this? Posted: 07 Nov 2020 02:44 PM PST I recently started noticing this tub paint has started chipping and I'm not sure what it is.... Would like to repair it but would like to ask if Reddit has some wisdom as to what repair material is needed and what the bath tub is made of. I did some Googling and most repairs were in regards to porcelain .. nothing really stood out to me as the tub I had Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Questions about inspections/new home ownership Posted: 07 Nov 2020 08:19 PM PST Just moved into a house. Found termite damage in the garage, low water pressure caused by a leak underground and an upper floor missing any kind of insulation. All of this was apparent once inspected, admittedly something I should have checked for, but I figure that's what the inspector should have found? Is there any recourse for him missing all of this stuff? The house was built in 1930, renovated. I'm just upset how much we paid for this house to immediately have multiple expensive repairs to attack. The inspector we had wasn't cheap for the area and has done well for us in the past. This is only my second time purchasing a home, so I'm just asking for advice at this point. Is this normal? [link] [comments] |
| 3 lights wired to one switch. How can I turn off 2 lights and keep 1 on? Posted: 07 Nov 2020 08:09 PM PST I have searched the web for the answer to this question for hours and I can't find an answer. In my basement, there are three lights wired to one switch (they all work great). One of the light sockets (light A) has an outlet that we installed today. The outlet works, even when that individual light is turned off (using the pull cord on the socket). My only problem is, the other two lights (lights B and C) stay on the entire time. If I use the light switch, it turns off all the lights, meaning that the outlet doesn't work. How can I turn off lights B and C while keeping light A on? [link] [comments] |
| Project: Phase 1 of My Kitchen Remodel Posted: 07 Nov 2020 05:57 PM PST Over the last two weeks, I've been working on the first phase of my kitchen remodel: the back wall. I took out the awkwardly deep (3') closets and replaced them with a full length pantry cabinet, a narrow cabinet for cleaning supplies, and a high cabinet to create a niche for an upright freezer. Materials/budget Breakdown:
All in all, the total budget was ~$2200, plus about $300 for a new work table, a metal cutting blade for the table saw, and various bits and bobs. Work Breakdown: Dad's week-long trip to help me rebuild my deck got shortened to just three days. (He lives in Kansas City, while I'm in Charlotte, so he can't just pop over for a quick project.) Wanting to take advantage of having a skilled handyman around, I decided now was the time for Phase 1 of the kitchen remodel: the back wall. This is a weird 66" wall, sandwiched between the first floor half bath on the left and the garage door on the right. It had been divided into two identically sized closets with differently sized doors, (Symmetry? We don't need no stinkin' symmetry!) with the left designed for food and the right for cleaning supplies. Some brilliant former owner decided that chocolate brown was a great color for the inside of the closet. After all, why would you need help to see in there, especially with the only lighting in that area being a heavily filtered and dying 75W incandescent bulb? I had already planned to do the kitchen with Ikea Grimsloev (best looking option for the money I have), so that choices was already settled. I went back and forth on widths for each cabinet, finally settling on 24" for the pantry, 30" for the freezer cabinet, and the little 9" cabinet between to give me space to hang the cleaning supplies on poles (broom and dustpan, dust mop, actual mop, duster, and fan blade duster while stashing the most commonly used cleaning chemicals in boxes in the cubbies. Dad arrived and was a great help. I've assisted him enough when he built his house that I know how to put things together. I hadn't done much taking things apart though, and we were able to get the closets out and down to bare walls in about 6 hours. The next two days were for installing various wood pieces to give the new drywall something to be screwed into, filling the drywall gaps, and putting down the first coat of mud. Did you know that when a tropical storm is in town, it takes a really long time for mud to dry? It took about two days to be able to sand that first coat. The last week and a half have been spent swapping the light fixture for a lovely bright LED one, sanding, installing a metal corner piece, adding more mud, sanding again, priming, assembling the cabinets, and hanging them. I still need to install the toe kicks, filler strips on the side, and find bolts with a thinner profile head, as I can't get the other matching box in its cubby at the moment, but it's now to the point I can load it up with food. The new wall paint, flooring, and trim (included a crown molding) will be done in Phase 4, after I've replaced the other walls of appliances and cabinets. This way, the bill gets spread out into $2-3K chunks. [link] [comments] |
| Flooring choice for kitchen/dining/entryway remodel Posted: 07 Nov 2020 05:56 PM PST Hi, I'm interested in doing a kitchen remodel and part of the project would be to replace the flooring. As you can see in the pics below, I've got this terrible low pile carpet in half the kitchen and dining room and it's impossible to keep clean, especially with kids and pets in the house. I've got a couple of constraints to work around - first, this is a 200+ year old house, and the floor is uneven in several places. Second, in both the kitchen and dining room I've got a couple walls with baseboard heaters, and there isn't a lot of clearance underneath. Third, my kitchen is also my entryway so I get a lot of water/snow near the entrance as well as around the sink. Both rooms are above either basement or crawlspace, and I believe what I've got are subfloor on top of joists. What kind of floor would hold up well under my constraints as well as fit well in my country style home? kitchen https://www.dropbox.com/s/l9lf2zyedwzqd3r/2020-10-25%2021.52.38.jpg?dl=0 dining https://www.dropbox.com/s/yovyrfkio9xpfla/2020-10-26%2023.06.51.jpg?dl=0 [link] [comments] |
| Mildly satisfying video of my new radiant floor loop filling for the first time Posted: 07 Nov 2020 12:03 PM PST We're converting a small kitchen alcove into a laundry room/mud room. The room never had heat so we figured why not do underfloor heating. I've installed electric radiant heat before but not hydronic. Install wasn't bad other than having to clear out blocking (will be reinstalled) and stray nails, and having to work around my existing washer and dryer which are still in the basement. It's 70F today so I figured it was a perfect day to drain down the system and finish this off. Still needs a radiant barrier and insulation, but that has to wait a bit until I finish off the water lines. [link] [comments] |
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