Home Improvement: When the can of expanding foam has a slow leak after you're done using it... |
- When the can of expanding foam has a slow leak after you're done using it...
- The HVAC industry in the US is probably run by a cartel (install mini splits yourself!)
- My submission of expanding foam "art"
- Anyone ever poked a $662 hole with a chainsaw ?
- Is $3k an insane amount for a small masonry job?
- Fixed running toilets and instant water bill savings.
- Tile Thinset Issue?
- Is this normal for behind cabinets?
- Sewer smell outside potential home
- Automatic driveway gate questions
- Spray Foam Straw/extender...
- How do I repair this damaged door?
- Rigid insulation installation on ceiling - How to
- In Wall Cable Management
- Any way to smooth out matte black texture?
- Does anybody have experience with an oil tank removal?
- Can hear every single sound from every room in house
- Finished the front portion of my fence with hidden gate
- Full house redux 3 bed 3 bath 2400 SF ranch MI
- So you need mounting brackets for recessed lights
- First time home buyer! Please help.
- Scanner or stud finder that detects PVC/PEX?
- Sewer Repair folks cut a low voltage line to my gas lantern. What should I do?
- Technician came to repair gas range but left a dent in the panel
| When the can of expanding foam has a slow leak after you're done using it... Posted: 08 Oct 2020 10:43 AM PDT |
| The HVAC industry in the US is probably run by a cartel (install mini splits yourself!) Posted: 08 Oct 2020 01:24 PM PDT Recently, I installed EIGHT mini-split units. Now, where I am (CA), you need a HVAC permit to install HVAC, and it has to be done by a specially licensed contractor (C-20 license). If you don't do that, they probably won't ever catch you, but you most definitely will not qualify for any rebates. To add salt to the wound, the mini split manufacturers also won't warranty your system if you install it yourself. So, I set out to do things the *right* way and called up a few HVAC contractors for quotes. I was baffled! Most of them wanted to sell me fancy ducted systems (like Lenox or Trane). The ones that would install the mini splits wanted something like $15-20K labor (the equipment is about ~$10K more or less). I even offered to install the electrical and mount the hardware, and they wouldn't budge by more than 1K. Instead, I decided to just install the damn things myself. There's a lot of (mis-)information on the internet, but I ordered 8 9K BTU LG units, 15ft pre-flared line sets, and some wires. I bought a nice vacuum pump from fieldpiece and a fancy AC manifold, but looking back, all you need is a vacuum gauge, a valve core removal tool, vacuum hose and a two-stage pump from harbor freight. Literally, each install took a whopping hour, and the units work great. I mean I was okay with screwing up a install given the amount I was saving, but it really isn't that hard. The steps of installing the split system are basically: 1) Mount outdoor/indoor unit. Outdoor unit can be mounted on a bracket on a wall, so you don't even need to pour cement. 2) Run 240VAC to AC disconnect, then outdoor unit. 3) Run 4 wire mini split wire from outdoor unit to indoor unit. Run refrigerant lines and tighten flare nuts. 4) Use valve removal tool to remove valve core from service port. Hook up the vacuum, pump down to below 100 microns. close valve, check vacuum stays below 500 microns. 5) Replace valve core, open service lines, turn on mini split. Pretty easy. One hour tops, unless your indoor/outdoor unit are far apart or on the roof or something. What I don't get after all of this is why the HVAC industry is so regulated in the US. In Mexico you can buy a mini-split in home depot. In the US, good luck getting a HVAC guy to even install a mini-split, and prepared for a bunch of people to tell you you're going to burn your home down or make a hole in the ozone layer in the process (BTW, I got my EPA 608 certification. You definitely *don't* need that either, but it's fairly easy to get). IMO mini-split units are definitely superior to central systems, the ducted system I pulled out was pretty disgusting. My only conclusion for why the system is so broken in the US is that it's probably run by a cartel that creates these rules to keep margins high. tldr; don't trust the hvac salespeople, you can probably install a mini split yourself if you can run a 240VAC electrical line. [link] [comments] |
| My submission of expanding foam "art" Posted: 08 Oct 2020 08:04 PM PDT |
| Anyone ever poked a $662 hole with a chainsaw ? Posted: 08 Oct 2020 02:31 PM PDT I knicked the freon line going to my 5 ton A/C unit. It was stupid of me. $662 to fix it sounds stupid too. [link] [comments] |
| Is $3k an insane amount for a small masonry job? Posted: 08 Oct 2020 06:15 PM PDT Hey Reddit, We recent converted our garage into a full bath/den. We replaced our garage door with a huge window and are planning on getting brick work done below to complete the exterior work (landscaping to follow). The area that needs bricked is about 40 inches H x 100 inches W and will only be one brick in depth. We were quoted at $3k for the work , which includes the laying, materials and dying of the materials to match. I thought this was extremely high, any insight Reddit? Below is a link for the area needing mason work. [link] [comments] |
| Fixed running toilets and instant water bill savings. Posted: 08 Oct 2020 07:15 AM PDT 2 out of 4 toilets in our house were constantly running, pretty slowly (or so i thought). Finally got around to installing new repair kit in both, not expecting it to make much of a change on our bill. Well one month in and our bill is 30 dollars cheaper(repair kits are the only change in usage, price, etc). Really kicking myself for not repairing this sooner and costing myself money every month. The kits are cheap and only take 15 mins to install with almost no tools. Check your toilets people! Very easy home project with great pay off. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 08 Oct 2020 07:36 PM PDT Decided to save money with a "handyman" for our bathroom tile install. He laid one row on the wall, and upon review, it looks like he's leaving gaps in the thinset. I imagine this can be an issue in the future. Have him rip it out and start over? [link] [comments] |
| Is this normal for behind cabinets? Posted: 08 Oct 2020 04:56 PM PDT Recently purchased a house with a remodeled kitchen. Just noticed a portion of the cabinets is 'open,' for lack of a better term. The wall behind the wall cabinets is not finished all the way down. Is this at all normal, or should we be taking steps to fix? [link] [comments] |
| Sewer smell outside potential home Posted: 08 Oct 2020 06:22 PM PDT I figured it would be worth asking in case anyone here can help. I'm thinking of purchasing a home that has a raised man hole within the property line that has a distinct sewer smell. I'm guessing it is part of the line of the city sewage system. I read that the smell may indicate the line is backed up. Would there be any way to mitigate this after buying the home? I'm guessing I'll have to get someone to write up an estimate after seeing what's going on, but would it even be possible to alter city pipes (again, on private property). Is it just a thing that is unavoidable for certain spots? Like some sort of necessary vent? Any input it appreciated [link] [comments] |
| Automatic driveway gate questions Posted: 08 Oct 2020 04:50 PM PDT We are considering getting an automatic driveway gate and have a few questions for those who have them. What are your main reasons for having it? We are considering it because we're tired of delivery vehicles racing up our driveway (think FedEx, Amazon, etc) and for child proofing since our driveway is sloped, we are afraid of our kids racing down it in their bikes and right into the street. How do you handle guests coming and going? Do you have to tell them the key code each time? How do you handle deliveries and such? Do they just dump the package at the gate, or do they walk around the gate and up to your house or something? General pros and cons of having it/ something I'm not asking about but should? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 08 Oct 2020 09:39 PM PDT We recently had our entire house repiped and there are some runs that can't be removed that are under the basement slab. I am thinking if using a can of spray foam (and then caulking the ends) to seal these off after getting the sitting water out, but am wanting to get into them as deep and far as I can. Is there some sort of flexible extended attachment I can get to reach down far into the pipes to seal them off? Has anyone done this before and what has worked well for you? Any feedback is much appreciated! [link] [comments] |
| How do I repair this damaged door? Posted: 08 Oct 2020 05:51 PM PDT My cat, a very needy (and kneady) Maine Coon, has done a bit of damage to our doors. How would I go about repairing this? damages [link] [comments] |
| Rigid insulation installation on ceiling - How to Posted: 08 Oct 2020 07:05 PM PDT Hi! I got 3 sheets of rigid insulation, something like https://www.homedepot.ca/product/durospan-gps-r10-insulation-96x48x2-13/1001211235?rrec=true. I need to install that on an OSB ceiling (it's a weird basement staircase with no stairs that will be demolished next year, but I want it sealed off for the winter). How's the best way to do that ? PL glue ? Screws with washers to hold the insulation ? How about on the edge, I was thinking about using a can of gap filler stuff. Don't hesitate on the details, new homeowner here :) Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 08 Oct 2020 06:46 PM PDT I'm going to be mounting a tv next week, and my wife doesn't want to see any cables this time around. I've heard that it's against code and dangerous to route loose wires, mainly the power cord, through the wall cavity, yet I see it done in so many houses. What's standard practice to make this safe, and what should I look for when I do this? Thanks [link] [comments] |
| Any way to smooth out matte black texture? Posted: 08 Oct 2020 06:44 PM PDT Hey all - I recently painted an indoor wrought iron staircase with Rustoleum oil-based enamel paint in flat black. I love the look of it but the texture feels a bit chalky. I'm curious if anyone here has used it before and if there's any way to smooth out the feel of it without losing too much of the matte look? TIA for any insight! [link] [comments] |
| Does anybody have experience with an oil tank removal? Posted: 08 Oct 2020 03:47 PM PDT I recently purchased a home that was built in 1958. We found an oil tank in the crawlspace and asked the sellers to remove it. Apparently these were commonly used to heat homes in the midwest as oil was cheap at the time, but nowadays, it only leads to problems including oil leaking. The sellers of the home are shady house flippers who have a bad reputation (another story, for another time). Anyways, they removed the oil tank and dumped all the oil in the backyard. They didn't obtain any permits from the village. I'm wondering if anyone else has experience with removal of this type of oil tank and if there's any follow up work I should be doing for safety. The tank is gone, but I'm concerned if I should be doing soil testing or anything in the crawl space? Would remaining oil cause any health issues? [link] [comments] |
| Can hear every single sound from every room in house Posted: 08 Oct 2020 08:03 AM PDT I'm living in a rental (new construction) with a roommate, and unfortunately, the acoustics of this place are atrocious. There is absolutely no privacy whatsoever behind closed doors. You can hear a pin drop in this place, from any room in the house. From the kitchen and living room, I can hear every movement and noise my roommate makes in her bedroom, two rooms, and a short hallway away. The rustling of her bedsheets, her clearing her throat, even opening her curtains. She's already complained because I had sex with my partner in my bedroom. He and I were dead silent the whole time (no talking, moaning, etc. pretty boring stuff I might add trying to be that silent). I have a solid bed that doesn't squeak. She complained she could hear "sex noises" from the kitchen, and I don't doubt she heard us swapping spit, etc. From every room in the house, you can hear people use the restroom. And I'm not talking about someone going to town in the bathroom. I wake up to the sound of a waterfall every morning because I can hear my roommate peeing. From my bedroom down the hall. With the door closed. You can literally hear when someone tears off a sheet of toilet paper from the kitchen and living room, not to mention every other bathroom noise. I just heard, from the living room, my roommate open a tampon in the bathroom. Private conversations are impossible. You can hear them clear as day from any room in the house. Doesn't matter if doors are closed, it's as if you're sitting next to the person talking. So I've been taking phone calls outside, but it's getting cold now. I can even hear my roommate typing on her laptop to her friends in her bedroom, with her door closed, from both the kitchen and living room. We have hardwood floors and tall, vaulted ceilings. We have tried to dampen the noise with rugs, curtains, lots of plants, etc. We hung wall hangings, thinking the noise is traveling through the walls. We got a sound machine that plays ambient noise. Nothing has remotely helped. With the exception of running our dishwasher. But I can't run the dishwasher all day, every day. We can also hear our downstairs neighbors clear as day (we're in the top floor of a two-flat) having a normal conversation. This actually bothers me far less than hearing every single bathroom or bedroom movement from anywhere inside our house. I hear him watch all of his stupid shows and cackle at everything. I can hear him talk to his Alexa, and hear Alexa's response. What the heck is going on in our place? Is it actually built of paper? I'm considering breaking our lease because of how ridiculous this is. Not sure what else we can do to provide some semblance of privacy. [link] [comments] |
| Finished the front portion of my fence with hidden gate Posted: 08 Oct 2020 04:45 PM PDT This is where I left off: https://i.imgur.com/Z6eJ0qg.jpg I needed a gate, but I wanted a privacy gate since my pool is could easily be viewed from the road with the old chain link. I figured it would need to be heavy duty, so I started with 4x4 frame. I cut 2x4's to make diagnoal bracing and used 4 hinges so it would be enough to support: https://i.imgur.com/00z9mSi.jpg I ran 3 lateral 2x4's to nail the pickets into. https://i.imgur.com/jlOoidE.jpg The result is an easy to open gate that when closed, you can't tell it's a gate. https://i.imgur.com/qZ3dGcc.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kApkMwP.jpg https://i.imgur.com/CjUOQ48.jpg To do is install steel cabling between the posts to support the weight of the gate, but as it stands, it's pretty solid. For a first time gate builder, I'm happy with the result. [link] [comments] |
| Full house redux 3 bed 3 bath 2400 SF ranch MI Posted: 08 Oct 2020 08:30 PM PDT DIY full exterior and interiors of my '55 ranch home in metro Detroit. Structure, windows and furnace/ac in working order. All things you touch and see were replaced. I'm not a millennial living in daddy's house...Thanks for checking out. [link] [comments] |
| So you need mounting brackets for recessed lights Posted: 08 Oct 2020 08:10 PM PDT I'm doing a total home renovation (to the studs) and I'm confused about lights. I'm looking at these lights: https://www.bellacor.com/productdetail/bazz-510l8w-510-led-white-recessed-lighting-kit-2149548.htm It's an all-in-one and it comes with a bulb and it's going for under $30/light which isn't bad. Now these lights say they are for new construction and retrofits. They use clips to hold them to the ceiling. I know they also sell mounting brackets for this - by why would I buy those brackets if I could just use the clips on the drywall ceiling? Are clips that much worse? Can somebody she's some light on why anybody would shell out $7 per light for mounting brackets? [link] [comments] |
| First time home buyer! Please help. Posted: 08 Oct 2020 08:00 PM PDT Hello all, Originally posted this in a local subreddit but wasn't getting much help. Some of the post is Denver specific but just general information will be so helpful. As the title says, here in the next few months I am hoping to buy my first home. I was hoping any of you could share some info/advice, realtors to avoid or seek out, help with the first time home buyer process, ANYTHING! I've heard about using CHFA but, I have absolutely no idea where to start. Do I get prequalified first, then reach out to CHFA? Should I contact a realtor and have them direct me through the process? Who should I prequalify through? Should I use a bank I have an established relationship with (Bellco, Chase) or like Rocketmortgage? Or something similar. Should I avoid a "build" situation (new neighborhood developments where you have a say in certain design elements)? Please help. I am so excited about this but I feel like I'm walking into a cave with no flashlight so to speak. Located in Denver. Thank you so much in advance. [link] [comments] |
| Scanner or stud finder that detects PVC/PEX? Posted: 08 Oct 2020 05:44 PM PDT I'm awaiting the Walabot for iPhone release coming out end of 2020, but wondering if there are any other scanners that detect these pipes reliably. I have not been able to find one. Closest might be a Zircon, but I haven't been very impressed based on the limited youtube videos I've seen on them. Any other recommendations, or is Walabot the best? [link] [comments] |
| Sewer Repair folks cut a low voltage line to my gas lantern. What should I do? Posted: 08 Oct 2020 07:48 PM PDT Tl;dr Should the sewer repair company fix the low voltage underground wire that they broke? We bought a house last month and during inspection there was root intrusion on the sewer outlet. The sellers hired a company to repair it. Lately I've been trying to get my decorative gas lantern working (electric ignition). My front yard is between my house and the lantern. My troubleshooting efforts have led me to test the low voltage transformer, and the wires coming out of the house set off my no contact voltage tester when I turn on the lantern switch. When I open the lantern access panel and use my voltage tester against the wires coming in, nothing happens. The obvious path between the house and the lantern goes right through the excavation site for the sewer. I'm not able to prove that the wire was good prior to the excavation, but to me it's obvious that this is the cause. Do I have any recourse? The previous owners were technically the customer since they hired and paid the repair people, but I don't feel comfortable involving them since the deal is done. Electricians won't dig, so who do I hire to fix the problem? Thanks for taking a look! [link] [comments] |
| Technician came to repair gas range but left a dent in the panel Posted: 08 Oct 2020 07:43 PM PDT I recently bought a new gas range but there were some issues with touch screen. While fixing the touch screen, he left a minor visible dent and scratch. When I pointed it out to him, he said it was already there. He showed me a before picture and I still didn't see the dent. I called the technician company, they said they see a dent in the picture. I asked for the pictures and never received it. How should I go about this? [link] [comments] |
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