Home Improvement: Some flippers bought the house across the street are are improperly removing asbestos. |
- Some flippers bought the house across the street are are improperly removing asbestos.
- Are garbage disposals bad?
- I added some faux garage windows (not the magnet kind)(lengthy DIY inside)
- Office Shed Build
- Was our tile floor removed correctly?
- Storing paintbrushes with dishwashing liquid on them after painting house outside?
- Best way to eliminate musty odor in new (old) house?
- Seeking Advice About Contractor's Tile Job
- Flooring Identification help
- Best way to run ducting for a microwave range hood when you're doing a complete down to the studs remodel?
- Cut structural beam?
- Garage - what is this?
- Would it be worth it to completely redo our electrical in our 1960s home?
- Good resource or guide to determine the costs in custom home construction?
- Patching dry wall on the ceiling help. Contractor fucked me.
- New roof - there is a gap between the roof and siding.
- Removing old paint from bathroom tiles?
- Is my refrigerator compressor bad?
- Shower replacement advice needed
- Ideas as how to decorate a brick archway?
- Midwest porch deck stain help... please?
- Tile vs hardwood to the front door (entryway here)
- How do I install stone steps and build a base?
- Does this product even exist? ISO a standard sized AC wall outlet that includes a cable passthrough.
| Some flippers bought the house across the street are are improperly removing asbestos. Posted: 17 Aug 2020 12:25 PM PDT So for context: my house and the one directly across the street are exactly the same: 1920s blueprint bungalows. I've been here for 8 years now and over that time I've become intimately aware of every pipe, wire, and duct in my house. I also have a construction background so I know asbestos when I see it. So some "flippers" (and I used that term extremely loosely) bought the house across the street a month or so ago. They show up every now and again and make some noise and leave, I don't really think much of it. I was kind of happy they were going to fix the place up because I'm tired of looking at it. So today I come home and on the front lawn I see several pieces of the old duct work laying on the front lawn as if they wanted the trash man to pick it up (they didn't, today was trash day) and they're the old rectangle ducts (that I've identified in my own house and mitigated properly) wrapped completely in asbestos. They're still there just laying next to the sidewalk where kids are riding bikes and people are walking dogs etc. I guess wtf am I supposed to do in this situation Edit: Ohio [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 17 Aug 2020 07:48 AM PDT I've heard about how garbage disposals cause issues with drains and drain pipes and thus are not allowed in many locations. Is this true - as I would think that the disposals churning up the food waste would actually help the sewage line stay clear? We are based in Morris county NJ. Tried looking up local codes and couldn't locate exact guidance on thism.. [link] [comments] |
| I added some faux garage windows (not the magnet kind)(lengthy DIY inside) Posted: 17 Aug 2020 05:32 PM PDT Skip to the DIY section below if you don't care about my reasoning. Unfortunately I didn't originally plan on a DIY so I didn't take pictures during, but I tried to be as descriptive as I could below! Our house is pretty boring on the outside, lacks character or curb appeal, if you will. When we were moving I said I didn't want a house where the garage looked like it was a majority of the house, so when we found this house and liked other aspects, my gf and I compromised...and she got what she wanted. So we moved into a house that, to me, looked like all garage. So I decided we'd fancy up the outside a little, I redid the landscaping, pulled all the mulch and added red granite rock, and planted some small evergreens (they're actually fake). Even with this I still felt the front looked to boring so I decided I'd build some faux windows for the garage as having real ones put in would have been a big expense and I don't necessarily need natural light in the garage anyway. So for about $130 I put up 8 faux windows on the garage and also added some decorative hardware and, with the exception of putting in some recessed lighting in the soffit and maybe a flag pole, I think we are finally done with project curb appeal. Just thought I'd post it in case anyone else is in the same boat and trying to think of ideas to add some character without breaking the bank! Tools you'll need: - tape measure - exacto knife/box cutter/plexiglass cutter - saw (miter) - caulk gun - clamps (or something heavy to put on the frames) - level - power drill - staple gun Materials: - acrylic sheets (I used .080 thickness) - PVC trim (I used 3/8" x 3/4") - construction adhesive - 3/4" stainless steel machine screws - waterproofing tape (or you could use caulk) First decide how large you want the windows, I ended up needing to add another frame/width of PVC around the windows I had originally made to cover up a recessed area on the garage. So essentially it just made a wider window frame. See pictures here DIY Set your miter saw to 45 degrees and cut the PVC trim to the dimensions of your windows. If you want to put muntins in the windows, measure those out and cut them as well. Cut your plexiglass to the size of your frame. It might be best to cut the plexiglass just short of the outer edge of the frame (this will allow you to screw through the frame and not have to risk screwing through the plexiglass). Peel one side of the protective coating off of the plexiglass. Lay your frame pieces on the plexiglass to make sure the dimensions are correct. Use construction adhesive to glue the frame pieces onto the plexiglass. Clamp everything down or put a piece of wood down and put some weight on it while the glue dries. Once the glue is dry add the muntins to the windows (if you decide you want them) and glue them just like the step above, and let dry. To reinforce the corners I used a staple gun and stapled down the seam where each 45 degree edge met on the back. Make sure you get staples that are shorter than the depth of your PVC or it'll pop through on to the front. Once all glue is dry, take the back protective film off, tape off all edges you don't want paint on, and spray paint the back side of the window. This achieves two things. One, it gives depth to the window as there is a clear layer before the paint. Two, it helps protect the paint from the elements. I used flat black paint, idk if it matters as either way the front of the plexiglass will cause it to look shiny (like glass). Make sure you get paint that will adhere to plastic. If your window looks the way you want it, you're done with assembly! This is the part where I ended up needing to add another "ring" of PVC around the assembled window (you can see in the close up pictures). If your window looks the way you want it, you can skip the next 2 paragraphs. Assemble the second frame as described above. Since you won't have plexiglass holding it all together, I put adhesive on the 45 degree cuts, put them together, then stapled down the seam on the back. I'll refer to this second, added outer frame as the "outer" frame from here on out. Once the glue dries place this "outer" frame around your previously assembled window. I used waterproofing exterior tape to tape where the new PVC frame met the old/the "outer" frame met the "inner" frame. You could use caulk here too, but for me this was faster and less messy. I then stapled down the seam where the two frames met (if you have plexiglass going all the way to the edge DO NOT STAPLE as it will crack the plexiglass - you'll want to use caulk or the construction adhesive instead of tape to hold the new frame to the old) Once everything is assembled and you have one solid window you are now ready to attach it to the garage door. I originally tried exterior double sided mounting tape, but with how my garage door flexes as it goes up and down the tape didn't hold well. Depending on your garage door that might be a plausible route to go. However, if that isn't a good option for you, you'll need to screw the windows to the garage door (even though I ended up having to screw mine onto the garage it was helpful to have the mounting tape on the back as I could place the window then tweak its position before placing the screws. It also helps put a little room between the door and window which might help prevent the paint from rubbing on the garage and wearing off the plexiglass). ***This is where you will be making permanent changes to the garage door. You do this at your own risk - if you screw its up, that's on you. Place the first window up on the garage door, get it roughly adjusted to where you want it. Pull out your trusty level and make sure everything is straight, tweak everything until it's where you want it. Take a machine screw and screw through the pvc into the garage door (if you're going through plexiglass you'll want to predrill holes and be careful not to over tighten the screw as it'll crack the plexiglass) Do this in all 4 corners (far enough away from the seam of the frames so they don't split. Since the vertical portions of my frame were sturdier bc I could staple them to the existing frame, I chose to affix the horizontal portions to the actual garage to strengthen them more. Do what works best with your design. Once you have all 4 screws in, move on to the next window. Again, use your level to make sure that window is straight, but also use it to make sure it's level with the previous window. Again, place screws. Do this until all your windows are mounted. Once everything is mounted, caulk around the outside to seal it against the garage door. This probably isn't 100% necessary, but will help protect the windows from water/rain. I also filled the screw holes with caulk to cover the screw head (screws went in deep enough into the PVC to leave a little recess). This will allow you to pop the caulk out and remove the screw without too much hassle should you need to take down the window for some reason. Now that you're done, sit back, enjoy your fancy garage door and grab yourself a drink. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 17 Aug 2020 07:02 PM PDT I've seen a number of posts asking about building a shed/office so I thought I'd post about my experience. I actually had started to think about doing this last year and when COVID happened and my company said we'd be WFH till at least the end of year, I decided to go for it. My home improvement/building skills were fairly rudimentary before all of this and I wanted to use this as an opportunity to learn new things. And boy did I learn!! The big caveat in all of this is that I decided to use a pre-fabricated Tuff Shed instead of building from scratch. I did a bunch of research on building the structure myself but since this was going to be mainly a weekend project, it would have just taken too long to do myself. I also farmed out the electrical run from the main house to the shed location. I brought a 60amp 220v line and quite frankly, I don't mess with that much electricity. I did dig the trench myself which actually did save quite a bit of money. Link to pics with comments in the description: https://imgur.com/gallery/zO3gALo Below are the details and cost for the major items. I'm not including little things like junction boxes, outlets, network cable, etc. I live in the SF Bay Area so pretty much everything tends to be more expensive than most other places. Foundation: The location where I wanted the shed to be was about 8 inches off level on existing grass/dirt. The Tuff Shed folks said they'll level up to 4 inches for free and then change for additional leveling. Their idea of leveling is basically just using concrete pavers. My neighbor across the street does foundations for a living so he helped me figure out what to do here. We decided to run 2 4x6 pressure treated beams that the shed joists would sit on perpendicularly. The beams would sit on 6 concrete piers (3 under each beam) 18 inches deep. I did the majority of the labor and it cost $350 for the a mixing truck to come and give us enough cement for the 6 piers. Having the cement pre-mixed and delivered saved a ton of time/effort in mixing ourselves. Well worth the cost. We ended up needing to also buy 6 4x6 pressure treated beams for the joists (see the next section for details). Shed Structure: I purchased the Tuff Shed from Home Depot. You're somewhat limited on the sizes and styles but you save 20-30% vs buying directly from Tuff Shed. I went with 10x12 TR-800 w/ 8ft walls. After adding 3 windows plus a windowed door, the cost came to $4700. This includes the structure, outside paint and trim, and studs 16" OC with a plywood floor. It also included all installation. We ran into a problem on the day of the install. It turns out the "galvanized steel" 2x6 joists they provide are no different than the cheap, hollow studs they use in commercial construction on non-load bearing walls. I convinced the installers to give me a couple of hours and I raced to buy 6 2x6 pressure treated beams + hangers and attached those to the 4x8 beams to replace the crappy joists they were going to put in. The installers just put down the plywood flooring directly on that. Note: this wouldn't have been issue if they were installing directly to the ground or concrete pad. In hindsight, I probably would have just paid a little more and done a concrete pad (neighbor said that would have been around $1000 w/ labor). This would have saved me a lot of backbreaking digging and extra cost for the wood beams. Electrical/Data: As stated above, I paid a local electrician to run the electricity for me to the structure. This involved installing 2 60amp breakers in the main house panel, running about 40 feet in the attic, dropping it down to the ground, and then underground to the site, about 20 feet. They then installed a sub-panel to the outside of the shed with two 20 amp circuits for outlets, one 15 amp circuit for lights, and a 220v 30 amp circuit for HVAC. I did all of the wiring in the shed for the outlets and lights. I also gave them a box of CAT6 cable which they ran for me in a separate conduit. The total for this was $2700 including all labor and materials. Insulation: I did this myself in a day...about $100 in material. Drywall: I had every intention of doing the drywall myself however my wife had an unexpected trip to the hospital and had an emergency appendectomy. So I was out of commission taking care of the kids for 2 weeks so I ended up paying a guy $1500 to hang, mud, and texturize. Honestly, I'm glad I did...I really think I would have messed it up. HVAC: As I stated, I live in the SF Bay Area so our climate isn't that extreme. That being said, it does get pretty warm out here in the summer and it can occasionally get below freezing at night in the winter. Thanks to the good folks on this sub, they introduced me to a mini split HVAC. It's quiet and efficient. The problem I ran into was the install. A company called Mr. Cool does sell a DIY but they were out of stock for a while. I found another one that does come pre-charged but required a vacuum pump to clear it out before charging. I didn't really want to mess with this so I tried to find someone to install for me. Nobody would touch it! Every HVAC person I called said they would only install their own equipment and that was gonna start at $4k. The one I bought from Home Depot was $1000. My neighbor finally found an HVAC friend that would do it on the side for $600. Flooring: I just used vinyl flooring that had pre-attached underlayment from Home Depot. It's only 120 sq/ft so it wasn't that much. It was about $450 for flooring, baseboards, and trim. Lighting: Because the roof rafters are only 2x4's, a standard canned lighting fixture won't fit in there. I found six 6in LED "pancake" lights that worked perfectly. $60 on Amazon. Everything Else: I probably spent another $700 on a bunch of little things like tools, outlets, data cable, smart switches, etc. So the total cost I spent is around $11,000 and that's with doing a lot of work myself. This biggest costs were the shed structure itself and the electrician. If you're comfortable doing those yourself, you could probably cut this close to in half. I'm pretty happy with how everything has turned out. I learned a ton and felt I did what I could I mostly farmed out the work that I just wasn't comfortable doing myself. Oh, I spent literally hours and hours watching YouTube videos on everything from wiring to installing vinyl flooring. [link] [comments] |
| Was our tile floor removed correctly? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 09:21 PM PDT When our home was built, the builder installed the tile floor and placed the cabinets on top of it. We had a flood recently. An abatement company removed the tile floor up to the cabinets, but they did not remove any of the tile under the cabinets because our insurance company did not approve of the removal of the cabinets prior to the floor removal. Here are 3 pictures of the cabinets and you can see the jagged tile underneath the cabinet. Is it possible for the tile installer to install new tile in this situation so that the new tiles sit flush with the tiles under the cabinets so there are no gaps or is this not done correctly? Thank you [link] [comments] |
| Storing paintbrushes with dishwashing liquid on them after painting house outside? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 08:22 AM PDT The paint is washed off the brushes with just water. No chemicals needed. But my husband says after using the brushes and going to store them, we need to put dishwashing liquid directly onto them and let them air dry and it will protect them from getting hard?!?! Then wash them before using next time. I don't think this is correct and can't find any info on this. Is he correct? [link] [comments] |
| Best way to eliminate musty odor in new (old) house? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 07:08 AM PDT First-time homeowner. Just bought my first place. The sellers have moved out. It's now vacant. I don't move in until end of month. When I walked into the place yesterday (my first time visiting without the sellers occupying and without their possessions) I was hit with a slightly musty odor. Almost (and very faintly) like a smoker's house. Here's the thing. I know the sellers didn't smoke (we ended up getting to know each other quite well over the 2-month course of the sale). Weirdly, I never noticed this musty smell before in any of my 5-6 prior visits. Perhaps this is just the nature of owning an older home (built 1960, though beautifully maintained by sellers.) Also, this is a mid-century modern house with high ceilings, all terrazzo and tile floors and no drapes or carpet for smells to "soak" into. So beyond mopping the floors, anything else you'd suggest I do before moving in to help alleviate that muskiness? I'm in Florida, so leaving doors and windows open all day in the midst of summer isn't really an option. Is an air purifier worth checking out? [link] [comments] |
| Seeking Advice About Contractor's Tile Job Posted: 17 Aug 2020 09:42 AM PDT I'm looking for advice about some tile work on a remodel job my Mom recently had done by a contractor. I'm not experienced with tile, and neither is my Mom, but we are of the opinion that the contractor has left the edges unfinished, and that overall the work looks sloppy. Through online research I have found that it is typical to finish tile edges with either a bullnose, or trim insert pieces, neither of which this guy has done. I'm hoping someone can share their thoughts on the quality of this work, and perhaps some advice on what I should tell this contractor. Thankfully, my Mom has not provided the final payment for this work because we are still waiting on the city to do a couple inspections. Should I withhold final payment until he corrects his work? I will provide a link to some pictures of the work. Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to provide. Link to photo album: https://imgur.com/a/A7cs3hE [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 17 Aug 2020 09:53 PM PDT Can anyone help me verify that the picture below is of laminate flooring? New homeowner who wanted to double check. I can see the grooves for clipping the pieces together but since I don't have much experience I was hoping someone else could tell me for sure that it's laminate. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 17 Aug 2020 08:52 AM PDT Hey everyone, I'm in the process of a really aggressive remodel of our house, we knocked out some walls that boxed in a small and stupid utility room to expand the kitchen. One thing that has always annoyed me about this place is they never ran actual real kitchen venting and instead had one of those recirculating microwaves that does basically nothing. While I'm doing all this I'd love to get this vented properly out the roof. Installing the roof cap is no big deal, nor is running the ducting. My problem is, because of the dumb way our house was built with lots of vaulted ceilings and the way the roof is sloped there will be no attic access anyone but someone the size of an 8 year old 1920's chimney sweep would ever be able to use. So, I basically need to have the duct work 100% in the proper place for when the cabinets go up which then will connect to the microwave before the drywall goes back up. Is there a better way to do this than have the 3.25x10 ducting coming down in the right spot? Should I run it all the way down to where the top of the microwave will be, or have it sitting flush with the ceiling drywall then run ducting up from the microwave to connect to that? I'm trying to do most of this myself which has been a massive savings on labor, but the only thing I'm not doing is the actual drywall hanging and finishing as having someone who knows what they're doing handle that seems to make such a massive difference when it comes to what the finished product looks like versus me durdling around and never being able to get a flat surface. I'm not sure what best practices are here, I've found YouTube videos for every possible thing imaginable in this project except the right way to handle this venting. I'm thinking the best plan is to have one of these- https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-10-in-x-3-25-in-x-6-in-Galvanized-Steel-Straight-Stack-Duct-Boot/1000237099 mounted so the bottom will fit flush with the ceiling drywall when installed and secured properly, then when drywall and paint are done, use 3.25x10 ducting to get down to where the microwave should be, cut the cabinet to fit around that, install cabinet, install microwave, and be golden. Is that ... correct? Is there a smarter way to do this? I just don't know what piece I'm supposed to have as the exposed duct that I hook up to. Something like this might also work? https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-3-25-in-x-10-in-Galvanized-Steel-Rectangular-Stack-Duct-Starting-Collar/1000230291 Edit: For the sake of clarification, I understand what should be done in the attic to get the vent up to the roof, I just don't know what everything down here should look like in order to be the least obnoxious to the drywall guy while still allowing me to then hook up the microwave vent once I get the cabinet and microwave installed- https://imgur.com/a/wAH2mkv [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 17 Aug 2020 05:38 PM PDT Had recessed lights installed in my bedroom, and the contractor needed access to the attic in order to install. After the job was done, I checked his work from the attic, and saw that a small section of a beam was cut out. Is this dangerous? Will this significantly affect the structural integrity of the house? Can anything be done to fix this if needed? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 17 Aug 2020 09:22 PM PDT I think it has to do with the sensors (that aren't there). I. Looming to add the sensors but I have no idea what the black box is above the garage door. Anyone know what it is? [link] [comments] |
| Would it be worth it to completely redo our electrical in our 1960s home? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 07:45 AM PDT Hi there! We just bought our first home which was built in the late 1960's. And we're wondering if before we do any other work (we want to replace the old carpeting with hardwood and paint the walls) if we should consider bringing a contractor in to gut our electrical and modernize it. My fiance and I are techies and we're thinking we'll probably be drawing a lot of power. Plus we want to upgrade our appliances in the next couple years as well. We're worried about its current (heh) state. The lights take a while to turn on, light switches are loose, there aren't any Ethernet plugs, there are phone jack boxes in every room and one of the rooms has a long-ass coax cable just coming out of the wall. We plan to be in this house for a while but we don't want this to be a money sink. it's a 1000 SQ ft rambler. Thank you! [link] [comments] |
| Good resource or guide to determine the costs in custom home construction? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 08:38 PM PDT Hello, I am looking for a resource or guide so I can understand the moving pieces and costs involved in having someone design and build your home. So far I've gathered that you need an architect, but what other moving pieces are there. Would the architect be able to find the construction company and what not? It's hard to find a home for my specific needs so I am just curious about who I'd need to hire to build a home for me under certain specifications. And also what I'd need to buy and who I'd have to talk to. Not looking for any specific numbers as obviously that'll vary by location, design, and squarefeet. I am more curious about the process from start to finish and who'd I have to hire. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Patching dry wall on the ceiling help. Contractor fucked me. Posted: 17 Aug 2020 08:57 AM PDT Is it a lot more difficult to patch on the ceiling than on the wall? Contractor fucked something up in the attic and I have to find the fuck up to fix it. I went in the attic and it's such a small space I can't fit into the area I need to. So the only other way I know is to cut a hole and look around. [link] [comments] |
| New roof - there is a gap between the roof and siding. Posted: 17 Aug 2020 06:12 PM PDT Just had a new roof put on and there is now a gap between my siding and the shingles that was not there before. It can be seen here - https://imgur.com/gallery/XSVrdJi There was some metal material at the top in the gap but the middle felt like a drywall type material and has a couple holes going through it, which I showed in the pictures. Contractor says it's fine and is definitely water proof. When asked what the exposed drywall type material was he said it was fan fold insulation, which I am not familiar with. My concern is that this may not be waterproof and could lead to damage if not addressed. Any recommendations for what to do here? If this is an issue should the contractor be responsible for addressing it? He was paid by my insurance company to install pretty much all new everything that was needed - flashing, ice shield, drip edge, gutters, shingles, etc. Thanks for any and all input! [link] [comments] |
| Removing old paint from bathroom tiles? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 08:51 AM PDT Hi! I live in a very old apartment building, and when I moved in there were a lot of old paint stains on the tile floor. How would you recommend I go about removing them? [link] [comments] |
| Is my refrigerator compressor bad? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 07:41 PM PDT So 10 days ago, I noticed that our refrigerator was not cooling enough. After some trial and error, I figured out that when I close the freezer door, the cool air stops flowing in the refrigerator area. I unplugged the refrigerator and called a technician. The technician showed up about a week ago. However, I had turned on my refrigerator a day before his scheduled visit. Oddly enough, it was working fine. After his visit and inspection for close to an hour, the technician concluded that the compressor is coming on and off and need to be replaced. He left and placed the order for the parts. It'd take 10-15 days or so to the parts to arrive. However, I have left my refrigerator ON ever since and it's working as normal. No odd noises of any kind and the temperature stays appropriately both in the refrigerator (38) and feezer (-1). So as I am yet to see a problem in last 5 days or so, I am starting to think that he may have misdiagnosed the issue. What do you guys think? Is it possible for a refrigerator with a bad compressor to operate for days without any problems? [link] [comments] |
| Shower replacement advice needed Posted: 17 Aug 2020 07:36 PM PDT My entire shower needs to be replaced because of water leaking underneath. Unfortunately, the tile is a non-standard size (6-1/8") and has been discontinued so it does not seem possible to replace only the shower tile and have it match the tile around the tub. One solution would be to replace all of the tile including around the tub and make the shower the same as before, but I am wondering if there is a better solution such as using a pre-made shower that would be more reliable and somehow look good together with the existing tub and tile around it. [link] [comments] |
| Ideas as how to decorate a brick archway? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 10:47 AM PDT We have a beautiful brick archway over the fire... however there is about a cm gap between the brick and the wall, most of which is crumbling and looks messy. The previous owners put a piece of thick rope around it which hides it pretty well - but the rope collects dirt and cobwebs like nobody's business! Any ideas on what I could replace the rope with? A wooden trim would be nice but its a curved arch so that may be impossible. I'm not even sure what to google for ideas! [link] [comments] |
| Midwest porch deck stain help... please? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 06:35 PM PDT I lived in Florida for years - deck maintenance was minimal at best. Super easy to deal with then... now... welcome to Midwest winters. My covered porch deck is 8 years old and needed some basic repairs and the stain was failing. A solid stain from hell... meant to torture anyone trying to remove it. I don't have the option of replacing these boards due to other projects going on. I spent a good amount of time using three strippers (named cinnamon, diamond and Mercedes.. har har) which helped remove some layers (bad joke). When that didn't work I spent time sanding the surface area and between the boards. The surface areas are bare wood now. My problem areas are between the boards and around some faux rock on the house. I got those areas as good as I can with hand sanding all 500 sq ft for problem areas... tops around faux rock and sides of boards. Worried that the remaining material will prevent a good stain in some places. Currently looking at a dark stain from one of these - based on research at deckstainhelp.com and Sherwin Williams being a local store...
Goal: actually see and enjoy the wood. Easy Maintenaince- as in - I HATE Maintenaince and want to do as little as possible. Final option: Paint it and be done. Cry myself to sleep over this option.. Here is the porch, the hand tools I used to sand between the boards and an example of some left over material under faux stone and is similar in small spots on some on the board sides. Pics: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/JMuYyaX Any suggestions? (Besides rip, burn, replace) [link] [comments] |
| Tile vs hardwood to the front door (entryway here) Posted: 17 Aug 2020 10:15 PM PDT Also what complimentary entry tile would go with star and cross tile design for my fireplace directly also from the fireplace [link] [comments] |
| How do I install stone steps and build a base? Posted: 17 Aug 2020 10:16 AM PDT Hey friends. I am trying to help my relative install these steps. They have dug into the soil in the front yard. We have ordered steps like these already but don't know hoe to build a base to make it stable. Are there sources I can look at like videos? This will not be an interlock staircase, and most videos are interlock staircases. Any help would be appreciated because this is not my area of speciality. Here are samples of what I want: [link] [comments] |
| Does this product even exist? ISO a standard sized AC wall outlet that includes a cable passthrough. Posted: 17 Aug 2020 04:12 PM PDT I have a TV mounted on drywall. I had an electrician install an outlet bridge at the height of the TV so the power cable wouldn't hang down. Because of coronavirus, I've picked up the habit of playing video games (namely, on Nintendo switch.) Now that I frequently play games on the TV, I'd love to a have a solution for the HDMI cord. I've seen products like this which seem great. However, I would prefer not to enlarge the cut into the drywall if possible. I plan on running an HDMI cable over the ceiling and to a preexisting hole (currently covered) on the other side of the room. I only require a single AC outlet. Something like this would be amazing, though I get that due to safety, it may not be possible. Any suggestions on how to find something that will allow me to accommodate a single AC plug along with an HDMI cord behind my TV? [link] [comments] |
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