Home Improvement: Bought a fixer upper. This is 2 years later. Multiple albums included. |
- Bought a fixer upper. This is 2 years later. Multiple albums included.
- Installed My Own Metal Entry Gate for 1/10th The Price of Contractor Quotes
- Replaced my 80 year old sewer main under my basement floor
- My Loose Tile Story.
- There's a hole under the floorboards in my basement
- Lawn mower moisture exposure
- My DIY Epoxy Garage Floor Disaster
- Need to repair the inside of a skylight opening
- Next step after clearing 15 years of ivy and brush overgrowth
- How do I fix splits in wooden door panel?
- Question about Installing Floating Shelves
- How long should I leave litter on an oil stain on my gravel driveway? Its getting dark, but it's only been on there 4 hours.
- Is this floor tile pattern too busy?
- Please, help me obtain a single length of gutter :(
- Can someone please help us figure out how to remove this sink faucet
- How can I get this stain out?
- Hanging up a shade sail over small concrete patio
- Roll-up Garage Door recommendations - DIY?
- SW Egret White - Advice
- I'm having trouble finding a recessed mount medicine cabinet that fits the rough cut.
- Help diagnose this HVAC issue
- Ideas on how to hide cement footers on a deck?
- Good or bad to have service loops when doing electrical rough in?
- Can I use pressure treated plywood as the floor of a metal shed if I put a plastic barrier between the base frame and the plywood?
| Bought a fixer upper. This is 2 years later. Multiple albums included. Posted: 12 Jun 2020 10:31 AM PDT Hi all, First off, this is a very long read due to the sheer size of the job so sorry for any formatting issue's as im posting from mobile. Secondly, i hope this post contains enough information to keep the mods happy. I will try and breakdown each album to give enough information of how the work was completed. There was a lot of other work completed but i feel these are the best parts. Location: UK Cost breakdown: House: £184k Total spent: £35k Ive broken it down into 5 sections: 1: Living Room, Kitchen & Driveway 2: Bannister 3: Kitchen tiling 4: Under stair dog bed 5: Garden I wanted to post this to show everyone that they can do this. Yes i had a pretty large budget, but i also completed a large amount of work myself. This house has been 5 hard years in the making. I worked my arse off, saved hard and was self taught for anything i could possibly do to keep the cost down. Multiple sections of this job were completed by professionals, this is either due to the sheer size of the job or the legalities of installing (such as gas safe, electricals etc). I managed to buy my first home made extra payments and with the increase in value was able to sell that at a profit to allow the funds for this house. Everything bought was bought to last and i tried to purchase top quality products as to not need to replace them for the foreseeable future. I want to concentrate on building a family in this home and actually enjoying it rather than worrying about repairs. If you have any questions ill happily try to answer, hopefully everything you could need will be in this post! 1: Living room, kitchen and driveway: So from the photos you can see the house looks ok, however it was in complete disrepair. The house was a previous rental that was never looked after with multiple issues throughout. Starting off you have the kitchen to the right, living room at the back of the property and a room located at the back left behind the garage. Our plan was always open living, we planned to take the 2 walls down and open up the living space. The SO's dad works in the building industry (mainly steel work and installing RSJ's) which was lucky. We did get a quote for an install which was around the £200 mark, however that was suppling the RSJ ourself. However on closer inspection we noticed the supporting beams ran horizontal to the house rather than vertically. I was told this meant the roof would be supported without an RSJ (always get a professional opinion). So we started by ripping the walls down, simply took a shovel and a hammer to the wall, smashing away until we had removed both wall sections. Taking our time around the connecting sections to not destroy any beams and wall we wanted to keep. This was probably the most fun i had on the entire job, who doesn't love smashing things up. We then removed the kitchen, along with the ceramic floor tiles and fire place. We wanted all the walls bare and taken back to brick so we could have them spray plastered. We had the boiler inspected and this was immediately condemned as it was leaking into the house (always check your boilers guys)! This boiler was still kicking but around 20 years old so it had out lived its life! We removed the electric fireplace which broke in the process which was a shame as it was marble framed. You dont need any licences for electric fireplace removal in the UK. We had electrics installed throughout the whole house at a cost of £2000. We then had a company come in and spray plaster the entire room, this cost £2000 but was a risk as we'd never heard of it before and they were new to the industry. If you have spray plasteres in your area its definitely worth checking them out. The entire room was done within 2 days, 1 day of spraying and 1 day for any corrections. We then painted straight over it. The floor was very uneven due to it being 2 separate rooms. We bought self levelling cement, installed that and left it to dry overnight. Ive included a time lapse below: Simply used a drill with a paddle mixer. The kitchen was purchased from Wren Kitchens, they came out and measured up, total cost £4500. They wanted another £4000 for install however we did that ourselves by watching videos on youtube. I had to get a professional in for the counter tops and that cost me £300 (big saving there). The SO wanted a modern look mixing the older cabinet look with a modern grey colour. She opted for white walls to contrast with the dark kitchen and make the room feel bigger with the lighter colours. The flooring cost around £1000 and is probably the easiest thing i did. Its a simple push and clip in, just used a floor fitting kit £9 from screwfix and electric saw to cut the boards. The window and front door were professionally replaced as thats not something i could do or wanted to risk doing. The old windows were failing and we didn't like the style as it made us feel like we were in a prison. We had central heating professionally installed as you need to be gas registered in the UK to install a boiler. We used a small local company and the total cost was £4500. The boiler alone was £1800 as we opted for a 38KW Combi boiler with a 10 year warranty. The driveway was professionally installed, required tools i didn't have and a digger, i probably could have done this myself, however its something i wanted done right. The garage door we painted to match the front door. Added surprises: The back room smelt like dogs had been pee'ing in there all the time, it stunk to high heaven and was still damp when we removed it. The waste pipe had a crack in the ceramic meaning we had to fix that, some rubber bungs and new pipe later and it was sweet. However, chipping away at piss soaked cement was horrible. We installed a new wooden frame around it and plaster boarded that ready for plastering. 2: Bannister: Ill start by saying, i hated this job and everything about it. Ive promised myself never to do another bannister again however im glad i did it and the comments we get on it are definitely worth the work. We started off by ripping out the old bannister along with the posts. The new bannister was purchased off eBay for £800 which i thought was a bargain. Its not real oak and we did that to keep the cost down. Annoyingly it came with one large hand rail and the under rail was in 2 separate sections. We then dyed this with wood dye and went to work. We installed the bottom frame first, screwing through the gap the glass sat in straight into the wood. We attached the posts to the concrete floor and wood floor at the top of the stairs with something similar to a post base. We used wood filler to fill in the gaps around the posts and the small gap between the 2 sections of frame. The glass is installed with wood between each piece to give it the space, all supplied from the supplier. In total it cost us £800 and about 30 hours or work, it took a lot of time as we didn't want to make a mistake. We did encounter a problem with the handrail not fitting and had to chip away at the second floor to get it to fit. We used a dremel drill with a specific attachment to cut away at the plaster, you can see this in the first 2 images. 3: Kitchen Tiles: The tiles were bought from a local tile company. I think they cost a couple hundred quid, but i cant actually remember the full price. I really enjoyed tiling and id advice anyone to give it a try. Little bit of trial and error but its actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. Youtube has some great installation videos. We used a tile cutter, along with a ready mix tile adhesive, tile spacers and grey grout. Simply apply the tile adhesive to the back of the tile, we used a tile starter kit you can buy pretty much anywhere, and move along the wall applying each tile next to the previous. Use the spacers between tiles to give the exact space needed and leave to dry. We went for a whole tile on the bottom row for the first piece then half tile for the second row to give it a better effect (image 1). Tiles tend to be cheap and you can buy more than enough to get used to cutting and for any mistakes. Once it has dried to the wall, mix up the grout and apply throughout, dont be scared to apply too much as it easily washes off once it starts to set. Just make sure you wash it off before its completely set! (Image 12) 4: Under Stair Dog Bed: We soon realised we wouldn't have space for the dog kennel in the living room and thats when the idea for the under stairs dog bed arose. Luckily the wall under the stairs wasn't thick. We simply measured and marked out the area we wanted to cut and went to work. It was a bit of a botch job, we drilled some holes big enough to get the hand saw in and just sawed away. Once the hole was cut we cut some wood beams and screwed them in the gaps around the frame to create some strength. (See image 2 & 3) We then filled in the gap at the bottom with cement (image 4&5) to make it level and installed floor skirting around the hole to hide the screws and to create a frame. It was all painted white to match the wall, installed a baby gate and voila! A dog bed. 5: Garden: This is the only job im still yet to complete, mostly due to the sheer size of the job and the fact it costs an absolute fortune. Ive probably spent in the region of £5000/£6000 on the garden, with all the work being done myself. This job is still on going 2 years later and the last photo is where we are currently at. I needed multiple skips to remove the waste and had to hire multiple different machines. This will probably be the longest part of the post. The first photo was the state of the garden when we moved in. As you can see its massively overgrown and in much need of some TLC. There was 5 massive tree's at the back of the garden. I probably should have hired someone to take these down, but wanted to save money so did it myself. I hired a chainsaw and wood chipper/shredder, dumping it all into a skip. The skips cost around £200 each and the hire equipment i think cost me £160 for the week. I paid someone £250 to remove the tree stumps from the ground. Removing the tree's allowed so much light into the garden which is south facing. The neighbours couldn't thank us enough due to the shade they were creating. Always good to get on with your new neighbours! Funnily enough we found a tiny pond hidden in the overgrowth, but that had to go pretty quick after the dog decided to use it as her personal bath at any opportunity. It was filthy with no life in it. (Image 3 far right in front of shed). We then got to work digging up the old and broken slabs. They were all removed, and we dug it out making sure to level the ground. We measured 3 metres out and dug the grass back to create a level slabbing area. Im not really sure why they previously slabbed one side of the path further out than the other. We bought new slabs, cement, sharp sand, builders sand and a sub base, however we got delayed by the great british weather! I hired a compactor, and laid the sub base. Some great videos on youtube on how to do this. I wont lie, i went cheaper on the slabbing and might regret it in the future, but the long term plan was never to keep the slabs and is actually to extend out where they currently are. So i did this next step to last a few years until then. I mixed the half a bag of sharp sand, half builders sand and 1 quarter concrete. Created 4 cement patties in each corner and laid the slabs on top. I used a rubber mallet to level the slab and a spirit level to check it was perfectly flat (Image 10 onwards). I completed the 3 metre area outside the house and that was that for about a year. Once the lockdown came around i restarted with the garden and moved onto the path that i'd never got round to finishing. Once again same method, this time i pulled out the old slabs, used string and pegs to line it up straight (the old one was at and awful angle) and then dug out the grass. I actually used the grass again, relaying it next to the slabs and once replaced soaked it to get the grass and mud to take (Image 15 onwards). I then lay soil in the gaps left and reseeded the ground. Once that was completed i started on the back. My plan is to install a large decking area. I cleared out the space and got to work installing the decking base. I did this in 2 separate sections to make it easier to move and bolted the 2 sections together once the posts were in place. We used 2x4 wood beams for inside the frame and i believe 2x6 for the outer (cant remember the exact size) so we had more surface area to attach the decking surround. We placed the wood beams 12inches apart (they advise no more than 16inches gap) and screwed them in with treated decking screws. We marked and dug out the post holes, making sure there was 3 posts on every other beam. This is where having 2 sections was invaluable as we could easily remove them to dig the holes. Once dug we used wooden fence posts and filled around the posts with cement mixed at a ratio of 4 to 1 (4 shovels of ballast 1 cement). Once the cement had dried we placed the frame back over, bolting it into the posts and reinforcing with multiple screws. We checked for any weak sections by walking on the frame and looking for movement, we installed a couple extra posts (luckily only needed 2). I then laid weed protector on all the dirt to make sure nothing can grow below. The total cost for the wood was £450 from a local business and im currently awaiting the delivery of the decking boards costing £1200 (we went with composite which is more expensive than wood). Conclusion: And that brings us to today. Its been an ongoing job for the best part of 2 years. I don't think you ever truly finish renovating a home. Wether its big jobs or just small changes your constantly updating your house be it furniture or complete redesigns. There was loads of other jobs i could have included such as carpeting, painting, decorating, light fittings, bedrooms and so on. However this post is probably way too long as it is and im thankful to everyone that got this far. I know id probably look at the pictures and just move on, but with the last post being removed for lack of detail i wanted to make sure i included as much as possible as i put 100% into this project. Its been a hard road, with a lot of work and at a large cost, and something im truly proud of. Ive never posted this to any social media so i hope this project gives some of you the confidence to go out and actually try some home improvements yourself. [link] [comments] |
| Installed My Own Metal Entry Gate for 1/10th The Price of Contractor Quotes Posted: 12 Jun 2020 05:49 AM PDT Greetings all. I thought I'd share a few photos of an entryway gate I recently installed between our house the the neighbor's. We live in an old St. Louis neighborhood and these gates are kind of a thing as everyone has these narrow entryways to their backyards between the row-style homes ; "breezeways" or "gangways," as some call them. There are fencing and metalwork companies that install them, but they fabricate from scratch, I suppose because the width between each house is different, and the quotes we received were right around $2500, which I just wasn't paying. So, I sourced this gate, intended for use with metal fencing systems, from amazon, hoping it would work for our width. After spending about $100 additional on some misc. hardware, heavy duty mounting brackets for attaching it to the walls on either side, and more substantial concrete anchors than what the gate mfr. included for setting the posts into the sidewalk, it's up and looking pretty good for right about $250 total. [link] [comments] |
| Replaced my 80 year old sewer main under my basement floor Posted: 12 Jun 2020 05:57 PM PDT The day after Thanksgiving I found a sewer backup into my basement. Ive always been lucky because my basement has always been very dry. The area I live in most homeowners have basement flooding problems. I had to call a plumber and they came out and cleared a bad clogged in the main under my cellar floor. House was built in 1939 so I figured it was just one of those things that happens and moved on. 2 months later same thing but this time the backup made it to my 1st floor. Call them back out and the same tech runs the line again and clears everything. About a month later it happened again. This time an older plumber shows up and brings his camera down and finds a belly in the pipe with heavy scaling lining the cast pipe walls which is causing the backup. With the help of my friend I decided to do this myself. Unfortunately I couldnt abandon the pipe in place and run a new line in the basement and connect in the front of the house because the rear footer drain ties into the sewer lateral at the back of the house. My town doesnt require water separation so there is no storm drain to tie into the street. Either way I was running a new line. On top of that if I did end up going to the street the sewer main is about 14 ft deep and the job would have been over $10K. The process was pretty simple but hours of labor. Really back breaking labor and I understand now the quote. We demo sawed a 2 ft wide cut, jack hammered and hand dug to where the original pipe was. I did a direct replacement to the cast iron with PVC. Total new pipe under the floor was approx 19ft, Saved around $2500 doing this myself. My buddy was amply paid in beer. TL:DR Sewer main took a shit. Replaced it myself and save a few thousand in cash [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 12 Jun 2020 07:34 AM PDT I was inspired by the other post "It all started with a loose tile..." Had a loose tile in the shower and drywall was soft. Pull tile off wall in shower. Might as well put in a whirlpool tub while we are replacing tile. Might as well replace bathroom floor if we are replacing tub. Might as well replace door in bathroom while we are doing trim. Might as well might as well replace all doors downstairs while we are replacing doors. Might as well replace all trim downstairs and add board and batten. Might as well replace hallway floor to match bathroom floor. Might as well remove ugly round step at bottom of stairs while we are redoing floor. Might as well take carpet off of stairs and refinish treads while we are making new bottom step. Might as well make a new newel post and railing while we are redoing the steps. Might as well get new carpet in living room because flooring is torn up. Might as well remove wallpaper in kitchen while we are redoing trim. Might as well paint living room while we are painting kitchen and hallway. Might as well paint the built-ins while we are painting the living room. Then, when all of these jobs were 80% done I get a job offer for a job I was not looking for and I can not refuse 90 miles away. Quickly finish everything and sell the house. Here are a few after photos, I don't have any before photos as it was not going to be a big transformation. Things just got really out of hand. [link] [comments] |
| There's a hole under the floorboards in my basement Posted: 12 Jun 2020 01:58 PM PDT I'm fixing water damage in my basement, and found a 6x4ft area under the floorboards that isn't filled with concrete like the rest of the foundation is. Why is there a hole ? I'm in Salt Lake City, and the house was built in the 70s, if that helps. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 12 Jun 2020 08:03 PM PDT In the photos provided in the link I'm pointing towards where I accidentally managed to direct a concentrated stream of water. I think roughly 30 gallons of water was sprayed straight into this part of my riding mower. My brand new, <5 mowing hours, Deere. I know the blades/deck is designed to be hosed off but what about this part of the motor itself? [link] [comments] |
| My DIY Epoxy Garage Floor Disaster Posted: 12 Jun 2020 07:12 AM PDT I have a one car garage 13' x 18'. I removed the moldings. Ground down the surface with a 4" concrete grinding disk. Acid etched. Then pressured washed it clean. Fan and dehumidifier on for 7 days. I applied Beauti Tone Hardcoat Garage Floor Epoxy (which I found out got discontinued 3 days after I bought it - wow lucky me!). Now my issues are: -The epoxy never cured around some of the edges of the walls. And around the base of the hot water heater. All these areas are still tacky after 40 days since application. - The places where it did cure within a day or so aren't as strong as I thought it would be. Chips easily which could be attributed to poor adhesion but also scratched easily which makes me think its not so tough. Things I've learnt about this experience. -Epoxy starts to thicken up much faster than you think. The box said 60 minutes working time but after 40 things were getting thick. -Took about 12 hours to grind the floor by hand. Would've been way better to use a commercial resurfacer. So now after spending around $250 in total I am going to seek out a professional and see what can be done. Either removal of old epoxy + new product or just new product. The cause of failure to cure was not a mixing issue as the areas that didn't cure are not consistent with how I painted. It had to be A. Acid was not washed away properly from edges or B. Moisture was still trapped in floor. Thought I'd share my experience. Now I need to figure out what to do. [link] [comments] |
| Need to repair the inside of a skylight opening Posted: 12 Jun 2020 04:17 PM PDT We moved into our home 4 months ago, and I noticed in my kid's bathroom roofing granules we're entering somehow through the skylight opening. I had the skylight replaced thinking that would solve it, but have discovered that the granules that we're actively falling (and still are) had been trapped behind a strip of the wall covering (seen hanging in the photo). The new sunlight will certainly prevent future roofing granules from getting in, but I have no clue how I would even go about fixing the area in the opening. That gap seems to be in our attic, so over the years I am guessing the granules collected since the old skylight was faulty. Do I just caulk that gap? I hate the popcorn ceiling so I'm not concerned about fixing that, but I have no clue what the best approach here would be. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Next step after clearing 15 years of ivy and brush overgrowth Posted: 12 Jun 2020 06:29 PM PDT Hey everyone, I bought an old farmhouse almost two years ago. It sits on 2 acres. An acre or so of it is cuttable nice lawn. But about an acre of it around the back and side was all overrun by ivy and brush overgrowth. It grew all the way up to our fence around our pool so it has been a nightmare to maintain and try to keep at bay. I found a guy who is a beast of an operator and he came out on a brush cutter and skid steer and cleared it all out. My concern is what to do next? I dont want the weeds and brush to grow back but I am not so sure I want to turn it into more yard to cut. Like I said it is on the side of the yard and on the back perimeter. There are many large trees in that area left that provide a ton of shade in the area that was cleared out. Do I have any option to keep this at bay? Or is growing grass the best option? I am on some very fertile farm land and the weeds seem to pop up overnight and grow three feet tall haha. So I am leary of just sitting back on it. I want to get ahead of it now while it is manageable. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments] |
| How do I fix splits in wooden door panel? Posted: 12 Jun 2020 05:02 PM PDT Almost every door in my home, including the exterior ones, have a split in one of the lower panels. How do I fix this? I've tried wood filler but it just cracks eventually. [link] [comments] |
| Question about Installing Floating Shelves Posted: 12 Jun 2020 12:22 PM PDT Hi all! I had a question about installing some floating shelves in my bedroom, and was hopeful this community could help. I have very little experience with anything home DIY, so sorry if this is a stupid question! I live in an apartment, and as I said, am trying to install some floating shelves (landlord is cool with stuff like this by the way). I was planning on using drywall anchors, since I'm just going to place relatively light stuff on the shelves. I already installed one of three without issue. I am trying to install the second one a little offset and higher, but plastic drywall anchors and even a metal toggle bolt won't go in. What should I do next? I was thinking this was just a stud, but also realized that on the other side of this wall is a bathroom, and was worried that this perhaps had something to do with the plumbing. Am I overthinking this? In either scenario, would buying a simple magnetic stud finder help to find a spot to reposition the hole? Or could I possibly drill a screw in the same spot if it is just a stud? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 12 Jun 2020 09:22 PM PDT |
| Is this floor tile pattern too busy? Posted: 12 Jun 2020 03:23 PM PDT I'm thinking of tearing up the cream colored carpet in my condo and installing a bold chevron tile pattern. But I'm a little concerned it might be too busy. I originally wanted to install white oak hardwood floors in a herringbone pattern but that would be costlier than this tile I found. Anyone care to share their thoughts? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Please, help me obtain a single length of gutter :( Posted: 12 Jun 2020 09:18 PM PDT This is going to sound stupid, so sorry in advance. I'm just trying to put a 9' length of gutter on my shed to capture rain for a rain barrel. Problem is, I have a tiny, tiny car and I've found that home improvement stores only sell them in 10' lengths. Neither Lowe's or Home Depot will cut them for me. I asked multiple people including the managers but they're "not set up to cut that type of metal." I can't find anywhere that sells smaller lengths of gutters, and delivery to my house is freaking $75 for a flat bed for a $8 gutter from the box stores. I can't find any gutters on Amazon, Walmart, or other similar websites with cheaper shipping. I checked gutter supply websites and the shipping is, literally, over $300 dollars for a $15 length of gutter. I checked smaller shops like Ace, and nothing. I've spent days chasing the dragon. Does ANYONE know where I can get a gutter that isn't 10', or where I can buy one with reasonable shipping, or have any other ideas? Please for the love of god, I just want a cheap ass aluminum gutter. Thank you for reading my sad tale. [link] [comments] |
| Can someone please help us figure out how to remove this sink faucet Posted: 12 Jun 2020 09:16 PM PDT My husband and I are trying to change the kitchen sink faucet out of a midwestern house built in 86. I don't see any way to get the faucet out of the sink. There's no screw heads and there are just mounting brackets. Please let me know if anyone has an idea about this https://imgur.com/gallery/DwC1oku https://imgur.com/gallery/vbMPYgb And yes my sink is dirty sorry about that [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 12 Jun 2020 01:59 PM PDT I think it's from olive oil that seeped through a garbage bag. I've tried baking soda and a vinegar/dish soap mixture. They haven't worked. Here's what the floor looks like: https://imgur.com/F4uOwg9 Thanks for any help. [link] [comments] |
| Hanging up a shade sail over small concrete patio Posted: 12 Jun 2020 12:35 PM PDT I live in AZ and my condo has a small concrete patio that is in the sun all day long .. needless to say a shade sail of some kind needs to go up. I've bought the sail https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shade-Beyond-7-ft-x-13-ft-Red-Rectangle-Sun-Shade-Sail-185-GSM-UV-Block-for-Patio-Deck-Yard-and-Outdoor-Activities-SBSR071330-A/308024736 I have all the hardware as well. The only problem I'm facing is actually hanging it up. Since I have nothing but concrete below me I can't dig a hole and put in a post. I do have a 4 foot tall brick wall separating my patio from the HOA owned area, but that's not high enough. Aside from the one end being installed on the house, how can I put up the other side when the brick wall is only 4 ft high? [link] [comments] |
| Roll-up Garage Door recommendations - DIY? Posted: 12 Jun 2020 03:09 PM PDT I'd like to at least entertain the idea of installing my own rollup garage door in my extremely old, brick garage. This is going to be my workshop and I need overhead space, so the traditional garage door that's there is not really cutting it. I've had a number of contractors give me off-the-cuff, verbal quotes ranging between $3,500 and $6,000. Since since I've done all the work refurbishing this structure so far (and there's been a LOT), I figure why stop now maybe I can hang the roll up garage door as well. For the record, the garage door opening is 7'x7' so it would be probably the smallest door available. So is this something I can do? Where would you recommend sourcing the door? Do's and Don'ts? Any and all advice encouraged. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 12 Jun 2020 05:00 PM PDT Edited because I mixed up what the heck we had painted! Hi All, I made a rookie mistake and didn't paint my sample wall colors before I decided on one to purchase and pay a painter to use. I don't totally hate it, but the undertone is faintly pink/purple at times. It's Sherwood Williams HERON PLUME I don't love it, though. Does anyone think I should decorate around it or admit defeat and ask my husband to repaint the living room? I like it in the kitchen/dining area. I'm struggling to figure out how to decorate with it. Does anyone had color scheme advice if we keep it? [link] [comments] |
| I'm having trouble finding a recessed mount medicine cabinet that fits the rough cut. Posted: 12 Jun 2020 04:32 PM PDT I took the mirror down in my bathroom and found a rough cut of 17" W X 22" H X 7" D I'm looking for something to approximately fit the rough cut by I'm having trouble searching by the rough cut and instead am finding only the mirror dimensions. Any advice on how to shop by the rough dimensions would be greatly appreciated. I don't need it to be exact but in the ballpark. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 12 Jun 2020 04:05 PM PDT x-posted to /r/hvac I had an inspection of my HVAC unit last week and afterward my house hasn't been cooling like it had. So, I called to have them come back out. This second tech realized the first tech didn't check the the evaporator coil, which had ice on it and neglected to hose down the outside condenser coil. He said the ice on the evaporator coil would give a false reading on other tests, so he wanted to test everything again. He melted the ice and went outside to hose off the compressor coil. He hooked up some gauges to the outside compressor and said the pressures were a bit low. He had a volt meter and placed it in 3 different spots. He kept saying "this one is off" "this one is running hot and this one is running hot".. whatever that means. He told me that the compressor, when it is overheated/overworked, will turn itself off and reset to keep from damaging anything. Unfortunately he couldn't wait for the compressor to kick back on because he had another house to service. He told me he would come back next week to finish the testing. He told me to watch the DATS, which was at the houses ambient 73 temperature. He said the compressor should kick back on and it should drop to about 55 degrees. Well, 5 minutes after he left the DATS read 55 degrees. About 8 hours later I went to check the DATS and it is back up to the houses ambient 73 degrees. One issue we have had since the inspection was done last Thursday is that the house hasn't been cooling as well as it had previously. This compressor issue is making me think it's in bad shape. The tech said "something is messed up with that compressor, but I can't blame my guy for the inspection last week, I can only blame him for what he didn't do". Now, I'm not saying the first guy fucked something up, but something is clearly not right and hasn't been since he was here. Maybe its just a coincidence that now my house isn't cooling as well. Is what my compressor is doing normal? Do they cycle and the air coming in becomes the ambient temperature of the home? Am I overthinking all of this? [link] [comments] |
| Ideas on how to hide cement footers on a deck? Posted: 12 Jun 2020 03:58 PM PDT I'm redoing the deck in 5 years (I haven't liked the build quality since I bought the house but have other renos I'd rather get done first) but for now all I can think of is a planter around each one or a nice box? They stick up a half foot in a well trafficked area by our entrance. [link] [comments] |
| Good or bad to have service loops when doing electrical rough in? Posted: 12 Jun 2020 06:03 PM PDT I've seen some people use service loops when doing electrical rough in and don't people don't. I get the purpose of allowing for changes later or if there was damage during drywalling. Do the sharp turns in the loop cause excess heat? I've read elsewhere that making 90 degree angles with wire causing too much heat inside the cable. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 12 Jun 2020 09:46 PM PDT Just got done putting together a 8 x 6 arrow shed installed the floor kit then went to homedepot to pick up some plywood. I figured it might be worth the extra money to buy the expensive pressure treated plywood thinking it would last the longest. When i got home I reread the instructions and it said pressure treated plywood on metal causes it to rust and the warranty would be void if i used it. Not wanting to waste $100 worth of plywood I was wondering if it would be okay to use a plastic barrier in between the base and the plywood or if there is anything else that I can do that would make the plywood usable? [link] [comments] |
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