Home Improvement: [MOD ANNOUNCE] We've hit 1,000,000 subs! |
- [MOD ANNOUNCE] We've hit 1,000,000 subs!
- Patching Walls
- Master Remodel - New bedroom, bathroom, walk-in closet
- Do I need furring strips to install wood panels over brick?
- How much gravel do I need?
- Color matching downspouts
- Dry lock concrete moldy walls
- tub stopper?
- so many project, so much time, so little money
- Dryer Platform
- How would you transition this wood panel/tile floor including the angle section?
- How to fix an imbalanced door?
- Fixing a threshold problem?
- Can I just unscrew and rescrew this pex fitting?
- Roof Reno (Asphalt Shingle) - ONT, Canada
- Tiling 1/2 bath floor
- Fan blade broke off in wind gust - suggestions to protect it from happening again?
- Anyone buy a Woodridge toilet from Amazon? Good reviews and comparing it to Caroma. Both seem to have 4" flush glaze valves.
- How to handle hiring household repair individuals during pandemic
- Addressing a low-lying area that tends to stay wet.
- Can I cut a Larson storm door?
- Grounding Metal Boxes
- What should I do with 1940s windows and cedar siding?
- Toilet not level
| [MOD ANNOUNCE] We've hit 1,000,000 subs! Posted: 10 Apr 2020 06:48 PM PDT |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 08:24 AM PDT I am in my first year of home ownership and we bought a 50 year old house which had quite a bit of work to do on the drywall. Over the course of patching, sanding and painting many times over this year I have learned a few things that I wish I would have known from the beginning so I just wanted to post those lessons here for others to have access to!
I hope at least one person finds this helpful. UPDATED: I am just adding the below to summarize the best tips that were added in the comments.
[link] [comments] |
| Master Remodel - New bedroom, bathroom, walk-in closet Posted: 10 Apr 2020 06:39 PM PDT [Columbus, Ohio] Bought an awesome house with a weird master suite. My husband has been chipping away at this job while also working 60 hours a week... Total labor of love! And fully permitted. Total project cost = $28,300. Breakdown:
Much of our budget (50%) was spent on the bathroom - The biggest spends: dual shower system, Delta fixtures, Spanish porcelain tile, and large glass doors. We knew going in this is where we'd invest the bulk of our funds. The additional bedroom FF&E came out around $4,500. [link] [comments] |
| Do I need furring strips to install wood panels over brick? Posted: 10 Apr 2020 05:21 PM PDT I have an interior brick wall that is painted white. I want to install reclaimed wood panels, 1/4 inch thick, over a portion of it - the wood is literally reclaimed wood from a seller on etsy, comes with nothing but. The easiest and quickest way would be to install directly onto brick, using just glue. Will that cause problems, related to moisture or otherwise? Do I really need furring strips before I do that? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 05:08 PM PDT I am trying to figure out how much gravel to order from a local quarry. They charge the same delivery fee anywhere from 1-5 tons. Projects I am doing.
You order by ton, but I don't really know what a "ton" of gravel looks like. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 05:02 PM PDT Hello all, I moved into a home with relatively new gutters and downspouts. The previous owner has two of the downspouts go to an underground corrugated pipe. Problem was that leaves and other sticks have blocked up the underground pipe so I changed those downspouts to just drain away from the house like normal. The problem is I can't seem to find downspout 90 degree elbows that match the actual downspouts in color. I found some brown elbows at Menards that are way off in color but they functionally work. I'd really like to get the same color and style downspout elbows if I can. Any suggestions on how I would find that? I can't seem to find a brand name on the gutters or downspouts and I don't know which specific company installed them. Thanks for any help! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 04:58 PM PDT Guys here is my garage wall, the corner is really black and the wall is half underground (corner of garage is underground up to the heater about) and at the door is on level ground.. but this mold will never go away! French drains did nothing to stop the growth. (Been a year now) Was hoping to drylock this summer (pressure wash first) but is there something else I should do to prep before spending that money and time trying to make this better? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 06:29 PM PDT How do you make it so this tub stopper doesn't just come out? [link] [comments] |
| so many project, so much time, so little money Posted: 10 Apr 2020 07:16 PM PDT Hi all, I've been thinking about it for months, and cannot decide what the next project I should do is. Since we are locked down for the next 20 days, I figured I'd offer up my list and see what your thoughts are on tackling it - longest/largest impact, most cost effective, happiness factor after it's done Project list:
Big projects that are also looming that I don't want to think about -warp/ replace wood trim (rotten, carpenter bees) with aluminum -replace AC unit from 1970 (works like a champ though!) [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 07:08 PM PDT This may be the stupidest ass idea but I'm wondering if anyone has ever built a platform to put their front loading dryer at a level closer to their top loading washer. You could also store a hamper under the platform and just slide it out from under the dryer. I'm almost sure this isn't a good idea. I was just curious. [link] [comments] |
| How would you transition this wood panel/tile floor including the angle section? Posted: 10 Apr 2020 05:08 PM PDT How would you transition between these 2 floors? This is how the previous owners left it and since I have so much free time now, I"m going around fixing little things. I'm in SWMI. The gap on average between wood and tile is about 1/8", however there are some gaps much larger while some are butted up to each other. There's also about a 3/16" height different. The wood floor appears to just be tongue and groove panels. I thought of doing aluminum nail down threshold, but worry about that odd angle that lands right in a common walking area. Is it possible to cut aluminum threshold and not have a sharp? Don't want anyone cutting their feet on any burr or where the 2 angles come to a point. Would wood threshold be safer and better? Do I try to match the wood color or the tile color? And if I do anything that screw or nails down, any reason I couldn't just fasten right through the panels instead of cutting a gap? If I have to cut, what tools do you suggest? Maybe the last question, is what's the best way to match the colors since I can't just tear up a sample and take it to stores now because they're all closing. I guess one thing I'm sure of, is I want to install it with some sort of track between because the tile nor the panel were cut straight, so I really feel like I need to cover both edges. Looking for some ideas. [link] [comments] |
| How to fix an imbalanced door? Posted: 10 Apr 2020 04:27 PM PDT My son (4 yo) decided to hang off his doorknob, because why not? Now the door wont' latch when it closes and there's a clear difference in the gap on the top vs. bottom near the hinges (sagging towards the floor). Do I just need to take the door off and fix the hinges if they're bent? How do I re-balance the door in the frame? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 08:52 PM PDT My folks have tile floors throughout but my mom doesn't like them and hired a guy to lay laminate flooring in the living room. Long story short, the guy and his crew didn't do a very good job, there's a lot of visible mistakes and for the threshold they just glued a piece of wood trim across where the laminate and tile meet. The problem we ran in to was it was awkward and everyone kept catching it and pulling it up until we gave up and removed it. How can we make this transition look nicer AND have it be more functional? [link] [comments] |
| Can I just unscrew and rescrew this pex fitting? Posted: 10 Apr 2020 07:17 PM PDT The fitting connects a faucet to a cold water pex line. I want to switch the cold and hot water. Just wondering if I can just unscrew the fitting, switch the pipes, and rescrew them back in? Never worked with pex fitting before. Thanks. [link] [comments] |
| Roof Reno (Asphalt Shingle) - ONT, Canada Posted: 10 Apr 2020 07:16 PM PDT Caution: this is simply how I did my roof, and I am not responsible if you have issues because you saw this post. Also, SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY. Don't take safety at heights or while using tools lightly. Also, if you have overhead wiring, be extraordinarily careful when working around the electrical post. This is not a job one should do alone. Tools required: -Skill Saw -Fall protection gear (harness, 50' safety rope, temporary anchor point/clear, 2' Fall arrest clip) -Hammer (roofing or framing hammer recommended) -Short spade and/or pitch fork -Garbage disposal bin (optional, but worth it) -Measuring tape -Chalk line (optional, but worth it) -Work gloves (optional, but worth it) -Safety glasses -Pry bar -Caulking gun -Roofing blade -Pencil -Carpenter Square -Tin/Aviation snips -Ladder -Power drill & bits Materials (Cost: ~$1600 CAD) -Ashphalt Shingle (style used here is IKO Architectural x 42 bundles & Marathon AR x 6 bundles) -Ice & Water barrier (2 rolls) -1 1/2" Roofing nails (25lbs) -Roofing and Flash Caulk (colour to match shingle; 2 tubes) -Aluminum Flashing -Appropriate Vents Steps (Time - 3 x 8-10 hour days with 2 people on the roof and 1 doing clean up) : 1. Fasten the harness as instructions recommend. Don your work gloves and safety glasses. 2. Climb to the roof and find the centre-most point. Remove all shingles down to the wood in a large enough patch to place the cleat. 3. Nail or drill in the cleat as instructions recommend. 4. Attach the safety rope to the cleat, the Fall arrest clip to the rope, and the clip to the harness. 5. Walk to the furthest edge of the roof and adjust the clip to be taught at this length. Note: you should adjust the length to allow you to be harnessed all the way down the ladder and re-adjust when back on the roof. 6. Use the shovel/pitch fork to get under the old shingles and remove them. Dispose of them as you go. I only removed the shingle 1 panel at a time as the weather forecast was unpredictable, but you can do this steps as you see fit. The goal is to make sure that the wood frame of the roof is not left open to the elements during rain, or snow. Remove all vents and flashing (if in good condition you can re-use them) 7. Once you have removed shingle, you may have rhino paper or tar paper. You can remove this or leave it if it is clear of mold, however, I'd say most people would recommend it be removed. 8. After removing the shingle, use your hammer to remove or hammer in all left over nails. You want a flat surface. If there is damaged wood panels or planks, replace them exactly as they were. There are many ways to repair plank or board damage, but total replacement, although semi-costly, it ideal. 9. Once clear and flat, lay out the ice and water barrier on the roof edge, about 1/4" over the edge of the roof, and cut it to size. Remove the plastic backing and stick it in place exactly straight with the roof. The adhesive is not meant to hold it, but meant to allow you time to line it up. Nail it in place with a few nails. 10. Take your 3-tab (marathon) shingle and place it tab side facing the peak on the barrier at the edge. Line it up straight to the barrier, and nail it in place with 3 nails. Repeat this all the way across that panel. 11. Take your architectural shingle and place them on top of the 3-tab shingle. Nail them in with 3-4 nails. Repeat all the way across. 12. Starting on one side line up an architectural shingle above on the white line of the below architectural shingle. Becareful to ensure you line it up straight with the roof. This is a 'starter', and if it isn't square you will be off across the roof. Nail it in with 3-4 nails. Use the roofing blade to cut the shingle along the seam of the 2 panels. 13. Continue step 12 across, ensuring to leave holes for the existing vents. When coming to a vent/flashing, place the vent/flashing in place and cut the shingle with the roofing blade. The shingle below the vent/flashing goes under the vent, all other shingles should be cut to go over the vent/flashing. Nail the shingle and vents/flashing in place. Note: Your coloured half of the shingle should overlap the top half of the shingle nailed below. 14. When you come to the next panel, ensure the final shingle overlaps onto the next panel, then cut it along the seam of the 2 panels. 25. Continue steps 12-14 all the way to the top. Avoid placing a shingle over your cleat (you will do this towards the end) 26. Once a full panel is done, move to the next panel and complete steps 9-25. Do this on all panels. 27. At this point no wood should be visible, except around your cleat. Take the 3-tab shingle, and cut them into strips of 3. On each tab you will cut the edge of the top half of the shingle on an angle to ward the centre about 1" on each side. These are now called caps. You will need quite a few of these. Measure you caps at the widest end, and divide by 2. 28. Starting at the bottom of where 2 panels meet, draw a chalk line on each side of the panels using your calculation in step 27 all the way to the peak. 29. Start at the bottom of where you draw the chalk lines. Line up a cap and use 2 nails to nail it in place. 30. Be careful to line the next cap up exactly. Your coloured portion should overlap the top of the previous cap. Nail in place using 2 nails. Continue all the way up to the peak. Repeat for all seems except the seam across the peak. 31. Starting on one side of the roof peak, draw a chalk line as you did in step 28. 32. Starting on one side of the peak place a cap on top of the seam in line with the chalk lines and nail it in place with 2 nails. 33. Continue the caps similarly to step 30. Stop when come to your cleat. 34. At this point you can pull one side of the cleat out and nail down shingles to continue your caps, then nail your cleat into the shingle and caulk it later (not recommended - can cause small leaks) OR you can move on do this at the very end. This is how I did it for safety, and so the rest of the instructions are based on this. 35. Load your caulking gun with roof and flash caulking. Cut open the caulk. The only nails which remain visible are 2 nails in caps at each end of the peaks - caulk them well. All flashing and vents should be caulked thoroughly to prevent leaks. This includes all the way around any chimneys, electrical poles, satellite dishes, or other objects which could produce leaks or are fastened through the shingle. 36. Return to your cleat and remove it. Be very careful as you no longer have a fall restraint. Install all shingles missed due to the cleat being present, and finish your caps across. Caulk over the nails on the final caps. 37. Descend the ladder in awe of your new roof! I may be forgetting some steps, but this is as simple instructions as I could draft up. I'll do my best to answer questions if folks have any! Here you will find photos: Roof Photos [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 07:12 PM PDT Pulling up the vinyl plank in my half bath to lay down some tile. Should I replace the chipboard with plywood before tiling ? Room is only 5 x5 [link] [comments] |
| Fan blade broke off in wind gust - suggestions to protect it from happening again? Posted: 10 Apr 2020 07:06 PM PDT We had a 4-blade 50 inch ceiling fan installed on our covered deck (yes, it is wet-rated). We had some strong winds the other day, gusts about 45 MPH, and one of the 4 blades snapped off close to its mount. Fortunately, the manufacturer agreed to send replacement blades as a one-time courtesy (respect to Minka Aire). Does anybody have suggestions of some way to secure this during the windy season? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 07:05 PM PDT |
| How to handle hiring household repair individuals during pandemic Posted: 10 Apr 2020 02:23 PM PDT I was hoping to get some guidance on how to handle household repairs during this time. While I'm not looking at unnecessary items I am left with a few things that need to be done. Our back stairs are becoming a hazard. I have a potential person willing to do a few repairs (necessary ones). How should we be handling important issues during this time? I'm not going to have them do any inside repairs but I'm trying to figure out the safest way to handle issues that will progressively get worse if let go. [link] [comments] |
| Addressing a low-lying area that tends to stay wet. Posted: 10 Apr 2020 05:33 PM PDT My house sits on the upper edge of a bowl. My backyard is mostly flat, but the very end of it (a space about 20' x 15') tapers down just a tad before a hill that rises with a relatively steep slope. As a consequence, the back of my yard is generally wet/muddy and, after a heavy rain, it is typically a big puddle for a few days before drying out. My plan this year is to dump a few inches of new soil there and plant grass, with the hope that the new soil will help sponge up some of the wetness, the increased elevation will spread the water more thinly and it will evaporate more quickly, and the grass will also help dissipate it. Am I thinking about this the right way? Any other pointers I should consider? [link] [comments] |
| Can I cut a Larson storm door? Posted: 10 Apr 2020 02:53 PM PDT I bought 2 larson quick hang doors in lowes, its been a while and they were sitting there, hubby and I were home during the pandemic and decided to install them. One is maybe a quarter inch too tall. The door wont close easily it hits the soffit the second is a completely different size, like 4 inches too big. Would we be able to cut them? Or will that ruin the doors completely? These are the doors. https://www.lowes.com/pd/LARSON-Tradewinds-Fullview-White-Full-View-Aluminum-Storm-Door-Common-36-in-x-81-in-Actual-35-75-in-x-79-75-in/50375000?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-mlw-_-google-_-lia-_-202-_-stormdoors-_-50375000-_-0&store_code=1624&placeholder=null&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsbuhjuze6AIVCZezCh2vuQ18EAQYASABEgKX-vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 05:23 PM PDT Apparently I'm stupid and I need someone to explain this to me like I'm 5 years old. Putting in some outlets and switches in the basement. Basement is unfinished, so I'm not putting things in plastic boxes. I'm using metal boxes. All my circuits have grounds running back to the breaker box. All my switches and receptacles green screws are connected to the bare copper wires in each circuit. Everything is in metal boxes fastened to the concrete block walls. Everything checks out with my plug-in tester for a correctly wired and grounded circuit. Person at the hardware store told me my wiring isn't correct because the receptacles and switches aren't grounded to the box. He said I needed to pigtail each receptacle and switch with a bare copper wire attached to the box with a green screw, and of course, he showed me what he said I needed to buy. I don't get it. Is he correct? The boxes are screwed into concrete walls, everything is romex (no conduit yet). Isn't it enough to ground the receptacles and switches to the breaker box through the circuit? If I do what he said, those boxes are going to be packed tight with bare copper wire pigtailed into wire nuts. [link] [comments] |
| What should I do with 1940s windows and cedar siding? Posted: 10 Apr 2020 05:23 PM PDT My early 1940s cottage style home still has the original cedar siding, wood trim, and panes windows. They add a lot of really great character and charm to the house, but 80 years has made them a bit scruffy. I've tried scraping and painting everything, but it still looks a touch rough. Should I replace the window cover the siding and sacrifice some of the charm? Is there a modern option that mimics the old style that's not stupid expensive? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 10 Apr 2020 05:12 PM PDT Hey there! Our toilet broke and we put in a new one. Problem is the tile that was put in by the previous owners of the house is definitely not level. The toilet rocks a little bit. We have it all hooked up right now. But any advice on how to make it level? We haven't put any sort of caulk around it yet. [link] [comments] |
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