Home Improvement: Kitchen Remodel - Painted Cabinets, Subway Tile Backsplash, Quartz Waterfall Countertop |
- Kitchen Remodel - Painted Cabinets, Subway Tile Backsplash, Quartz Waterfall Countertop
- Bought new lights for the garage. later found out they are wired with wall plugs. Is it safe to cut off the wall plug and hard wire them in?
- How much weigh can eye bolts screwed into a floor joist support?
- Took your advice and now I'm less worried about my new bidet attachment
- No hot water in kitchen
- Drywall shimming, when to do it?
- Laundry room remodel - What type of flooring should i get?
- Small project while stuck at home
- "Shake and Rake" loose fill fiberglass insulation
- Toilet tank leaking from bottom bolt with brand new gasket
- (Help) Water dispenser not working! More in the description. [Samsung French Door refrigerator]
- What unnecessary tool have you bought that helped you move faster?
- Plans for a second floor addition. Looking for feedback
- Generally, how much would adding a vent from the ac unit in the attic to the garage be? Length would be 10-15feet.
- Can I build a garage on my already existing cement slab?
- Mounting a TV Above a Fireplace
- Recommended area (preferably online) to buy precise and near 'perfectly straight' PVC pipes?
- Repair LG Dryer (DLEX4270V) FlowSense Error D80
- Furnace Repair Question (not sure if it's home improvement)
- Connection to toilet tank leaks after reconnecting
- Rain Water Erosion
- How to fix this drywall in the garage
- Bidet not fully working
- Home electrical questions, most safety related, and maybe some tips about insulation?
| Kitchen Remodel - Painted Cabinets, Subway Tile Backsplash, Quartz Waterfall Countertop Posted: 29 Mar 2020 12:16 PM PDT Hey everyone just wanted to share our kitchen project. The cost for the project was about $6500 CAD, which included all materials and install of the countertop. The cabinets were painted and slightly modified. It was one of the biggest projects I've taken on and theres allot of information on the process in the imgur album. If you have any questions please feel free to ask! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Mar 2020 07:39 PM PDT |
| How much weigh can eye bolts screwed into a floor joist support? Posted: 29 Mar 2020 06:40 PM PDT I really don't know if this is the appropriate sub, but I can't figure a better one out either. Q: How much weigh can eye bolts screwed into a floor joist support? Background: When I moved into my house, I noticed two fairly large eye bolts in my basement ceiling that are screwed into what (I assume and hope) is a floor joist under the dining room. No idea what they were used for (swing chair? some type of therapeutic suspension set up? sex swing?). Anyway, I haven't thought much about it, and I am in the process of fixing up the basement, so I haven't touched them one way or another. But, now that I am working from home and bored to tears, I am thinking about using them as a place to do pull ups. That said, I have no idea what weight the eye bolts nor the joist can support. I can (and will) verify the eye bolts, but what about the joist? I'm guessing having a devil will care attitude toward this is a bad idea? [link] [comments] |
| Took your advice and now I'm less worried about my new bidet attachment Posted: 29 Mar 2020 11:27 AM PDT I got a 12" and a 20" flexible toilet connector hose. Turns out the 12" was the right size to make a loop and be the right length. Thanks u/Snoringdoggies and u/m4rc0n3 I cleaned up the dog hair, u/ChaoticGoodWhatsIts (at least I hope it was dog hair). [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Mar 2020 08:03 PM PDT Sorry about formatting, on mobile and still new to Reddit as a whole. I'm having an issue with the kitchen sink. Two handle setup, full pressure with hot water, but it doesn't get hot. After five minutes of being on, it's lukewarm at best. All other faucets in the house have hot water that works just fine. We replaced the shut-off valve because the handle was broken off, thinking it was the issue, but it didn't seem to fix anything. What would the next step be? [link] [comments] |
| Drywall shimming, when to do it? Posted: 29 Mar 2020 07:46 PM PDT Remodeling the bathroom and getting ready to put up drywall. I have the Grip Rite drywall shims, which are amazing btw in case anyone is unfamiliar. I had to use them in conjunction with wood shims for my alcove shower/tub area (that I will be tiling and using Mapei waterproofing so no (real) chance they get wet. Out of curiosity, I checked in plane of the largest wall and there are a few studs that are out further than the rest, by about 1/16 to 3/8, but not uniform vertically, just in some areas. That got me to thinking, who is going to shim to plane every wall? So, barring any super crazy out of line stud, aren't these shims really only for when joints don't line up or drywall doesn't match up with window or door frame properly, in which case you shim just enough to get a smooth transition? [link] [comments] |
| Laundry room remodel - What type of flooring should i get? Posted: 29 Mar 2020 06:02 PM PDT Hey guys! First time posting here :) Been lurking and learning about home renos and materials but now it's my turn to ask a question. We're renovating our basement at the moment, hired a contractor who's doing all the work but we're choosing and buying all the materials. Would have done it myself but we're having a little one coming soon and wanted to get this done before the craziness begins. Part of the plan is a finished laundry room that leads to the utility room which contains the furnace and water heater behind bi-fold doors The laundry room will have a stacked full size front load washing and drying machine (latest Eletrolux model) as well as a 18+30+15 counter with a 30" stainless steel kitchen sink. The whole basement including the bathroom will have LVP flooring but the laundry room's floor has a drain in the center with a sloping concrete floor from all side towards the drain. The contractor is hesitant in leveling it out allow LVP installation to retain the slope in case there's water issues (water heater.. laundry.. etc.) Aside from tiles, what other floor option should i look into? Need something that can bear the weight of a stacked washer and drying, good water resistance and slight flexibility to follow the slope towards the drain. Vynil sheets? Vynil tiles? What brands should i be looking for? [link] [comments] |
| Small project while stuck at home Posted: 29 Mar 2020 10:27 AM PDT http://imgur.com/gallery/IctdRaK I made an addition to a small raised bed I have in the backyard. Our house had a chimney that had been removed to below the roofline years ago. I finished removing what was left and saved the bricks. Thank God they don't build chimneys like they used to. There was no liner and years of being used as a flue for a wood stove and later a gas heating stove turned the mortar into dust. I didn't do any measuring or leveling. I used 5 bags of Quikrete and two bags of mortar. All materials were less than $50. [link] [comments] |
| "Shake and Rake" loose fill fiberglass insulation Posted: 29 Mar 2020 07:22 PM PDT Has anyone used a product like this? Looking at using it to insulate the trust space of my garage/workshop. I'm putting up 7/16" plywood (got it on the cheap) for the ceiling and thinking this would be easy enough to dump up there. Looking at going R-19-23-ish and heating it when I'm out there putzing around. Is there any drawbacks with this stuff? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Toilet tank leaking from bottom bolt with brand new gasket Posted: 29 Mar 2020 07:21 PM PDT I just replaced the guts on an existing toilet with all new hardware, and now it's leaking from one of the front bolts on the bottom that connect it to the base. After taking all the bolts out and trying to figure out what was going on, I noticed a small chip in the porcelain on the inside bottom, right next to where the bolt hole is. I'm assuming this is preventing the rubber gasket from fully sealing. Can this be fixed with silicon sealant or a similar product, and if so what would be the application method? Would I first fill the chip and wait to dry, then attach the bolts, or put sealant under the washer as I'm bolting it all down? [link] [comments] |
| (Help) Water dispenser not working! More in the description. [Samsung French Door refrigerator] Posted: 29 Mar 2020 07:19 PM PDT When we put in a new filter the water dispenser will not work but when it's removed it starts working again! Any help is appreciate it! Fridge Model: Samsung French door refrigerator [link] [comments] |
| What unnecessary tool have you bought that helped you move faster? Posted: 29 Mar 2020 09:30 AM PDT For me, it was my Franklin Sensors stud finder. I didn't need it, I had a cheapo Zircon one that worked, but I dreaded using it since I found it would often give me false positives, maybe a human/keyboard interface error, but regardless I no longer have to dick around trying to find studs. I'd love to know if anyone else has similar stories, maybe there are tools out there that I'm unaware of. [link] [comments] |
| Plans for a second floor addition. Looking for feedback Posted: 29 Mar 2020 10:59 PM PDT I drew these in SketchUp. Looking for feedback. This is a coastal home in NJ in a good neighborhood with rear views out to the water. The second floor MBR will have great water views. It's my house and I need more bedrooms so I can have more kids. I think it'll make financial sense, too, given the improved home value. However, I'm stabbing in the dark thinking about how to budget and execute on this. Looking for feedback on the design, challenges I'll face, how to get a ballpark cost on this, and anything else. Thanks [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Mar 2020 10:48 PM PDT Was looking at ways to cool a garage 20x20 for home gym use. The attic entrance is in the garage and was wondering how much it could cost to add and run a vent from the existing ductwork (above garage) into the garage? [link] [comments] |
| Can I build a garage on my already existing cement slab? Posted: 29 Mar 2020 06:49 AM PDT There is a cement slab in my backyard, conveniently at the head of the gravel driveway area. I don't have a garage and would really love to have one since getting a new car. I dug around a corner of the slab and it appears to be 4 inches thick. Its 24 ft deep and 16 ft wide. I would be parking my standard sedan on it and some home gym equipment. [link] [comments] |
| Mounting a TV Above a Fireplace Posted: 29 Mar 2020 10:06 PM PDT Hi, so my boyfriend wants to mount a 55' tv in our apartment (he's never mounted one before). It will be going over a fireplace that we'll probably never or rarely ever use (the wall doesnt have any brick or anything, it's just a regular wall). i still want him to place it high enough just in case we do plan on using the fireplace one day (however I highly doubt we will). I watched this youtube video that explained it and im a little lost about the process. The video mentioned a stud finder and then just mounted it on the wall. Are you supposed to avoid mounting it to/ on a stud or is it okay to mount it to a stud? If someone has found a better video or can explain it better in order for me to understand that would be great. I think our biggest challenge would be that part everything else seems fairly simple. Also, are power tools necessary when mounting especially above a fireplace? edit: also how do we hide our wires? it's an apartment so cutting through the wall and and running it behind isn't an option. our outlet isn't directly under where the tv will be. we have two outlets on both sides of the wall, so there is a protruding wall in the middle and the outlets are on the walls to the side. the fire place isn't centered and doesn't take up the whole bottom of the wall. there's enough room to the left to have a end table or skinny shelf but using one of the cord hider thingy (good choice of words) would run right into the fire place unless we move the cords to left and try to hid them that way [link] [comments] |
| Recommended area (preferably online) to buy precise and near 'perfectly straight' PVC pipes? Posted: 29 Mar 2020 10:05 PM PDT I'm hoping to construct and apparatus similar to the following image: https://i.imgur.com/B0YQrEo.jpg The longest pieces will be 36". I noticed the ones at my local home improvement stores are are not perfectly straight and are bent in an arch like shape. Metallic/copper ones are too costly. Extruded aluminum way above my price range. [link] [comments] |
| Repair LG Dryer (DLEX4270V) FlowSense Error D80 Posted: 29 Mar 2020 06:15 PM PDT This is not a question. Posting this it can be found when others google for these key words, and just to share a general tip in the TL;DR. TL;DR: Follow the directions for troubleshooting EXACTLY as instructed. My LG Dryer (DLEX4270V) was not drying well and displaying Error D80, which indicates an 80% vent blockage as reported by the FlowSense feature. I bought a dryer vent brush, actually two because I needed the extra links to get 16', and ran it into the duct, and got a ton of lint out. The previous owners likely never cleaned the duct in the last 15 years. I ran an endoscope up the duct to verify the duct was clear all the way to the roof vent to check for lint on the screen. I used a shopvac, the blower side, to move the flap to inspect the pest screen with the scope. I put the dryer back, and ran the FlowSense test. The test was successful. I immediately ran it again to make sure its actually fixed...this was a time wasting mistake. The 2nd test failed, so did the 3rd. I began a several hour process of removing the dryer again and googling, and taking parts out to examine, etc followed by a FlowSense test. Every first FlowSense test I would do after changing/cleaning/messing with something would pass, but every subsequent test would fail. Even when the dryer was pulled out, and not attached to any duct, it would fail the 2nd and all subsequent tests. Eventually I figured things out (more details below) and I put the dryer back, and everything is working fine now. The first test after a fix attempt would pass because the time it took to mess with stuff allowed the dryer to cool from the previous test...the dryer being cool is THE first step in the FlowSense test...doh! Diagnosis Details: I spent most of the time trying to find the FlowSense sensor, thinking it was malfunctioning or was clogged/blocked because with no duct connected, I was feeling a lot of hot air out the back. I never found such a sensor that could directly measure the flow of the air. I did find 2 temperature sensors downstream from the blower fan, Hi Temp Thermostat, and Safety Thermostat. I believe there is no air flow sensor, and the FlowSense feature uses the temperature readings to indicate a blockage, with a higher than normal temperature indicating this. When running the FlowSense/Installation test, the dryer runs for a set amount of time, and the computer knows that a cool and empty unit should heat up to 100F (making up temperature) in the 3 min test, but if the heat is measured at 110F in this time, this is an 80% blockage, 120F is 85%, 130 is 90% and so on. So when I ran the first test, which passed, but kept running tests, every test after the first is with a heated up drum, reaching or exceeding the temperature limit before 3 min to indicate a blockage. This is why the instructions start with "With the dryer cool and empty..." According to the wiring diagram, the Hi Limit Thermostat should be the device sending the active temperature to the computer for FlowSense. But, I thought this Thermostat was that disconnected the heat if the high limit was reached. But perhaps the model of thermostat installed can send a temperature signal to the computer for processing. [link] [comments] |
| Furnace Repair Question (not sure if it's home improvement) Posted: 29 Mar 2020 06:11 PM PDT Pretty sure the bearings in my draft inducer motor are going bad. I'd like to replace just the motor itself and not the whole draft inducer unit. I don't want to deal with sealing up the whole unit if I don't have to. I should be okay just replacing the motor, correct? Unscrew it, slide it out and slide the new one in. Any thoughts/experience are appreciated. Edit: I've repaired just about every appliance in my house (including the damn furnace multiple times already). So I'm comfortable doing the work either way. Edit 2: I now realize that if I take out just the motor, the fan on the inside will probably drop. [link] [comments] |
| Connection to toilet tank leaks after reconnecting Posted: 29 Mar 2020 09:49 PM PDT Apologies in advance if I'm not calling these things right. So I was installing my bidet but found water dripping where the tank's water supply line connects to the t-adapter. So I connected the water supply line back to the tank. Except it still dripped. There wasn't any leaking problem before I started all of this. I'm also not seeing a rubber thing in the water supply line's coupling nut. Do I just need to purchase one and put it in to solve this issue? Thanks! https://i.imgur.com/Tnj7Xa9.jpg https://imgur.com/HQqEPtQ Please ignore the white tape around the line, that's my failed attempt of temporary fix. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Mar 2020 09:43 PM PDT I've got a corner on my roof where the covered patio sticks out. Whenever it rains kinda hard there is a torrent of water pouring from that corner coming off of the two slopes. What is the best method of slowing this water down enough to prevent the erosion it is causing? I'd like to do a paver patio there to extend the existing patio but I'm worried this issue will damage such a construction. [link] [comments] |
| How to fix this drywall in the garage Posted: 29 Mar 2020 05:54 PM PDT So now that I'm furloughed for at least the next 30 days, I've decided to attempt to tackle a project that I've had on my mind since my wife and I bought this 1952 house a few years ago... I want to renovate the garage! Currently it has a filthy concrete floor, one wall that is only studs, and another that previously was covered in old dilapidated cabinets. Earlier today I demo'd the cabinets to find this: https://imgur.com/a/vr4biv1 Is this salvageable? I don't need it to be top quality but, I wanted to see what my options were. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 29 Mar 2020 09:35 PM PDT I bought this bidet seat from Amazon. bidet It's a pretty simple one, with only a cold water connection. I set it up following the instructions without any problems. It's got something odd though. The front female spray sprays straight down into the toilet bowl after extending out. Has anyone seen anything like this? How might I fix it? The back spray is working as expected. [link] [comments] |
| Home electrical questions, most safety related, and maybe some tips about insulation? Posted: 29 Mar 2020 09:13 PM PDT Can a 220 volt circuit formerly used for a welder/dryer that is 20 amps be used to power a hard-wired electric heater(garage)? I would either have to install a plug in on the heater or remove the outlet.(does wiring a 220 volt differ from 120?, like, different wires, coloring, grounds, etc. Just larger gauge and connections, right?) Electrical junction boxes. I have a lot of them in this house. Almost every single one is uncovered and have been for 30 years. Some are plastic, some are metal, some join a lot of wire, some just one two. I could show examples, but what is there to know? I have all the covers, so I can cover them. but maybe I should change the boxes? Metal better? plastic? different colors? Maybe move them(anything they shouldnt be near?) Are the screws standard(if the covers dont have screws with them) Lighting fixtures in suspended ceiling(basement is base floor of house, suspended ceiling for basement, which is floor for upstairs) are mostly plugged into outlets that were installed. Is this practice dangerous? They are uncovered, of course. Could I cover the boxes(make sure not full of cobwebs and stuff first) and maybe put plastic plugs into unused receptacle? I would like to retain the plug ins if possible, they provide a potentially helpful power source in a lot of areas without wall ones. In addition, there are 3 unused screw-in ceramic light bulb fixtures. They are switched to the wall, but are redundant and no longer are used. the bases are all 100w safe and I Would like to keep them as currently they are being used, but wont be soon. Maybe a plastic insert to keep them from potential fire hazzards? General safety tips and things to look out for? This house was built by my grandfather... wiring he did would have been finished in 1985 but he did it himself. We have grounded receptacles, breaker boxes(1 was small and just did downstairs, 2nd was installed to handle all of upstairs and a small expansion downstairs). Maybe a way to find out boxes are safe? Use of conduit, maybe? Running of wires? How close to pipes or drains or other things should wires be? Insulation. Id like to insulate the floor of upstairs, so in the suspended ceiling. I know i would have to work around lights and pipes, etc. But how close to objects can I get with insulation, or should i leave certain things clear? I can provide pictures of what im working with. Id also like tips on insulating walls that are concrete blocks.. we have a mold issue that stemmed from wet walls that were hidden behind foam sheets and 3 layers of wood panneling. Maybe it couldnt get air circulation? Sweat? Leaks? I can provide photos, just lmk. [link] [comments] |
| You are subscribed to email updates from The Hivemind Improving Homes. To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now. | Email delivery powered by Google |
| Google, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043, United States | |
No comments:
Post a Comment