Home Improvement: How do I make my toilet bowl more slippery |
- How do I make my toilet bowl more slippery
- Pulled out buckets full of BURNT lint from dryer!
- Contractor wants 10k upfront on a 13k contract. Is this normal?
- Can we all just take a moment to laugh cry at my house/attic.
- Dryer not drying
- I have asbestos contaminated vermiculite insulation. Should I just add more insulation on top and leave it in place?
- Never used dishwasher for 2/3 years, what should I do?
- Replacing an asphalt driveway
- Septic back-flow prevention
- Performing a bathroom remodel, discovered that asbestos-laden mastic is on the plaster walls that I found behind the current drywall. Looking for alternatives to direct-to-stud tub/shower.
- How do get hot water
- Anyone have experience with a doorless shower using one pane of glass? (Pics)
- Toothbrush was flushed down my toilet. What do I do? Can’t afford plumber.
- Playroom with Playset Project
- Removing furring strips from block wall
- Experience with bug bombing
- Paint color suggestions?
- Finished our gutter project right before the big rains hit
- Zinsser BIN primer application
- What’s this thing do? Found in my 1930 house.
- Painting walls gray
- Front load washer is leaking from the front, and I think it's the door not the gasket
- What is the cost to finish an already roughed-in bathroom?
- Floor joist cavity
| How do I make my toilet bowl more slippery Posted: 28 Jan 2021 09:05 AM PST Strange problem here. No matter how clean my toilet bowl is, poop sticks right to it. My friends have confirmed that it's a problem for them as well but only when they use my toilet. I don't have this problem using any other toilet. Im tired of having to use toilet paper to smear the poop off the bowl every damn time I poop. Its absolutely disgusting. How in gods name do I make my bowl more slippery? Edit: It's a brand new toilet and has been thoroughly cleaned. There's no reason for the finish not to be intact. [link] [comments] |
| Pulled out buckets full of BURNT lint from dryer! Posted: 28 Jan 2021 03:19 PM PST TL,DR; Opened up my dryer, pulled out so much burnt lint, it was scary - cleaned the dryer unit, and replaced the unsafe duct - super grateful for this subreddit! Photos: https://imgur.com/a/4quUzTl Lesson: Clean your dryer units, clean the vents and prevent fires! Details: About 3 months ago, someone posted here about keeping dryer vents clean and preventing fires. I am a recent first-time homeowner with almost no experience in home maintenance, so I lurk around and try to learn what I can. When we first moved in, I cleaned our dryer and the vent on the exterior wall. At the time, I did not know that the duct work could be detached and cleaned as well! Upon reading the discussion, I felt my cleaning wasn't adequate and the duct run was probably unsafe. I posted pictures of the twisting, squished, cramped duct, and some of you confirmed that it was unsafe, improperly installed and needed to be cleaned/replaced soon. Following the advice of many, I looked behind the dryer to find that removing the duct really is as easy as they say it is. So I decoupled the duct from the unit and cleaned from inside with a shop-vac and leaf-blower combo. Bags and bags of lint were cleaned out - however, quite a bit that was caked on to the duct with moisture still remained. With the amount of lint that I removed though, I felt that things were clean enough and would serve me okay for a little while. WRONG! I decided to put the 'relatively' clean duct back on and hoped that my clothes would dry faster. A couple of loads in, the dryer cycle was just as long and the clothes wouldn't dry out completely in one go. Not wanting to hire a contractor, I decided it was time to take matter into my own hands and dared to venture where I had never been before. I followed an instructional video for a similar model and was able to open the unit. The dryer was stuffed with lint! The frame around the drum, the door, the coil, everything! Clouds and layers of lint. And a lot of it was BURNT! I have posted some photos here. I was shocked colorless! Since then, I have replaced the existing duct with a new one that, while not perfect, doesn't have so many weird twists and turns, and installed a secondary lint trap! It's a shorter run now, the duct is fully stretched, and not squished and cramped like before. I am just glad that I decided to do this before it was too late! Keep your dryers and ducts clean, folks. Keep your families safe! [link] [comments] |
| Contractor wants 10k upfront on a 13k contract. Is this normal? Posted: 28 Jan 2021 11:15 AM PST We're having our home repaired via home insurance and our contractor wants 10k of 13k upon execution of the contract with the other 3k delivered after the work is done. This feels really high and I worry it's bad practice to pay so much for work that hasn't been done yet. I was thinking 50% upfront at the most. I'm sure many of you have been through this before. Can you please advise? [link] [comments] |
| Can we all just take a moment to laugh cry at my house/attic. Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:20 PM PST Moved into our fixer-upper the last day in July. We knew it needed a lot of work. But of course turns out it needs A LOT of work. We live in the northeast and it is currently below freezing and will be for a while. Finally scrounged up enough money to get our attic insulated, at the cost of putting our water heater on the back burner. T _T Got a few estimates and they were triple what we were thinking they would be because the insulation up there is potentially moldy so they need fix the vents, seal it, take out the old stuff, sanitize, vacuums, then install the new stuff. Hilariously the previous homeowners replaced the roof last year but didn't do the insulation that is basically nothing. However I have an even more ridiculous find! The guy giving us an estimate today sent us photos he took. Turns out the previous home owners did install new insulation... on like 2% of the attic.... For your visual enjoyment. Feel free to laugh-cry with me. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 07:45 PM PST Hello! A friend of mine has a dryer that takes HOURS to dry a load of laundry. I'm talking 5 or 6 hours. They say they have a new dryer and the old dryer had the same exact problem so they got a new one. They had the vents cleaned, and hoses changed. Does anyone know what could be causing this?? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:34 PM PST Title says it all, really. My attic has vermiculite, but not a lot of it. So, my house is the only one on the block with no snow on the roof right now because I lose so much heat through my poorly insulated attic. Removing the vermiculite myself would be relatively dangerous and very messy/time consuming. Paying a contractor to remove it is very expensive, even when you account for the rebates paid out by the Zolonite Attic Insulation Trust ($8,500 to remove and reinsulate a 910 ft2 attic, or ~$5,500 to just remove it). EPA suggests that vermiculite should be left in place if it isn't falling into the living space and you don't need to do any major projects/store stuff/otherwise be in the attic. Has anyone here been in this situation and just blown new insulation over the vermiculite? I'd obviously wear a fully body suit, goggles and a respirator while in the attic and make sure to not spread it through my house. I can rent the blower and buy the insulation myself for <$600 total, which is obviously much better than the cost and hassle of having it removed. [link] [comments] |
| Never used dishwasher for 2/3 years, what should I do? Posted: 28 Jan 2021 07:41 PM PST I am renting an apt and I never used the dishwasher- I am a single person with few plates and never grew up with a working one. It's been 2 years and the person before me (who lived there for a year) never used it. I believe it is brand new otherwise. As best practice, even though I don't see myself ever needing it, should I run some vinegar through it to keep the machine from somehow messing up due to inactivity? Or an online forum post mentioned putting some warm water because the rubber might have cracked dry with age or something... I just don't want to cause any damage because I am renting. Would appreciate some simple steps for best practice in this situation, thank you! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:46 PM PST Has anyone replaced an asphalt driveway recently? Approx how much did it cost you? Is there anything I should consider in making the decision of who to hire outside of cost? I am trying to get a rough idea as we budget some home improvement in a new home purchase. FYI the current driveway is is really bad shape with seemingly gravel in some spots due to how bad of shape it's in so resurfacing is not an option. Additional info:
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| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 05:50 PM PST Plumber quoted $5k to install backwater valve on our septic system. Found a spot outside the house where two pipes connect, a few feet from the tank. Would it be foolish of me to try to do this myself? Any tips/warnings? (I have some experience with installing sump pumps, though I realize that the stakes are much higher with this) [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 09:46 PM PST My current bathroom has only a non-functional shower, and I'd like a shower/tub. The shower was tiled. After removing the tile and cement backer board, I discovered that behind that, there is a plaster wall slathered in mastic or a similar adhesive which contains asbestos. I intended to remove that before I had it tested, but now I would prefer to just cover that up. I originally was just going to put a direct-to-stud bath in, but now I don't think I can do so, unless it is possible to install with the plaster wall still intact? That would be great if so, but if that's not possible I am not sure what else I can do. I do not really like tile, but I can do that if there is no other options. Anything else I can do? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 09:09 PM PST We do not have a boiler so no hot water when we wash our hands. Since covid, we have been washing our hands more frequently with only cold water...it hasn't been so pleasant. Is there a way we can get hot water running without having to get a boiler? Would something like this work? We do have a regular outlet near the sink. https://www.amazon.com/Ready-Hot-RH-200-SS-1300-watt-Dispenser/dp/B00DIYZEGA/ [link] [comments] |
| Anyone have experience with a doorless shower using one pane of glass? (Pics) Posted: 28 Jan 2021 09:02 PM PST We're remodeling our guest bath and replacing an old tub with a shower. Shower is tiled, professionally sloped, and there's a small curb between the shower floor and bathroom floor. My idea to save cleaning and money is something like this glass panel with no door. (Ignore the design.) I read that getting cold in the shower can be an issue, but since it's a tiny bathroom I feel that's less likely? [link] [comments] |
| Toothbrush was flushed down my toilet. What do I do? Can’t afford plumber. Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:53 AM PST I have very little plumbing experience and even less money to pay for a plumber. Toilet isn't flushing for obvious reasons. What do I do? Thanks in advance for your help 😓 [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 02:22 PM PST Edit: editor cut off most of my post after I fixed the links. More explanation coming. TL/DR: I took a huge storage room and transformed it into a playroom with a built-in playset for my With the kids home most of the day (thank goodness for in-person preschool), my wife an I were being driven crazy by the kids in the main living room. They were pent-up rambunctious loud normal kids who left their toys everywhere (5 years old, 3 years old, 18 months). So my wife and I decided to reduce our clutter by getting rid of some things and moving others from our huge storage room into a playroom. Unfortunately, my wife went to Pinterest for some ideas. Thus an empty room with their toys became a project. First I measured and made a couple of different models of playset to put in the room. the one in the pictures is the one we settled on. I used Microsoft's 3D builder program. As I didn't need anything too fancy or that cost money. Then we started emptying the storage room, some was sold online, some was given to charities, some was taken to the dump, and we kept a few things. We took some time deciding what to do with the walls. Since I had never mudded or taped we were not confident in my abilities. We also wanted something stronger than drywall because well kids. After discussing manget boards or other options we decided on bead board as I had done that before. Unfortunately, this time was vastly different and not in a good way. Then it was on to mudding and tapping which I had never done before. It turned out better than I expected. Some of my seams were very well done. Others needed some help. It didn't matter if it was the first, middle, or last any of them could have been good or bad. At this point I was waiting for some supplies to come in (mostly wood). So decided to go on to paint. Boss lady decided that we needed to use sky blue. Since most of the paint was going to be on the ceiling I choose Matte paint. I also knew that it would hide my imperfections better. Since the bead board was going 8 feet tall on all walls but one I didn't have to worry about durability. I used my brothers paint sprayer the original primer I used worked great. Then I switched to a slightly different primer but it was thicker and cause some minor issues until I thinned it out. I never want to do primer without a sprayer again it was so much easier. However, they say to roll on color. I also wanted a little texture to help hide the imperfections. So I rolled the blue on. After the paint dried and I was able to get my supplies it was time to get down to the real building. I started with putting in the baseboards making sure they were level. Note if I was to use these kinds of baseboards again I would put the bead board up first. The issue was when I went to put the bead board up it was not perfectly square so I had issues getting it to stay butted agains the board next to it and the baseboard. This was the time when my worst failure of this project happened. I used Liquid Nails with a couple of brad nails from my pneumatic nail gun to put the bead board up. Liquid Nails is what I used last time I did bead board but that wasn't 8 feet tall and more importantly I have since learned that Liquid Nails changed the formula to be VOC compliant. This resulted in 1/3 the holding strength it had before. Finally to top it all off I didn't check the length of the brad nails and they were only 1 inch long so they didn't go far enough to hid studs. Needless to say the whole thing came crashing down. My solution that only partially worked was to use 2 tubes of Liquid Nails a ton of brad nails all over and use a board and chair to hold it up for about an hour. This is when I did my research on Liquid Nails. The next morning when I got up one side of the panel was looking great the other side had a wave in it and I couldn't fix it. Oh well, have to move on or this will never get done. After that I took all the tubes of Liquid Nails back and got Loctite instead. It worked a lot better still had to hold it for several minutes to let it start to cure but better than an hour. My brother-in-law and father-in-law came to help. We finished the bead board and the chair rail. Then we started working on the framing for the playset. I had already put the leger board up before the bead board so we worked on hanging the vertical supports from the ceiling anchor which I had already hung. This is where I got to start using my very overkill, for this project, brackets. Hey if your going to build it for kids might as well over build it. The framing was the most enjoyable part of this entire project in fact it went so smoothly that my father-in-law and I both kept double checking things because it was going too easily. However after drilling holes with the hammer drill and setting the brackets for the posts we hung the joists and every turned out square. Unlike the rest of the room. We then installed the platforms using the plywood I already had. It was a pain to get straight cuts out of the circular saw. I saw guide bent near the beginning so we had chalk lines and free handed it. In retrospect we should have just taken the time to pack up my father-in-law's table saw and bring it over. Rip cuts are a 100% easier on a table saw. I was back on my own to put together the shelves, ladder, and slide. I didnt put the slide together at this point as I wanted to use my electric sander as I was planning on several coats for the slide. So on to sanding everything. I went though a lot of sandpaper. I got the platform, ladder, shelves, and slide super smooth with 320 grit. everything else stopped at 220. Back to painting. So I put up painter's plastic with painter's tape to protect the few things in the room I didnt want to be white. Out came the paint sprayer, but this time I ran out of primer and the store didn't have the one I originally used. When I asked they said they had some in quart sized. So I got that and left, thinking that the different color was due to the different size. Oh, how wrong I was. The primer I was originally using and the second primer I used were both water based as I was planning on using latex paint. This primer was oil based. It was not low fumes, I got a little tippsy and had a headache for the next couple of days. I had to rough up that primer with sandpaper so I could apply water based primer. What a waste of several days. Finally on to the white paint. I thought about rolling it like I did the blue but all the corners and nooks and cranies were just to much for me so I sprayed the paint on as well. I did two coats of primer, two coats of paint. Then for the platform, shelves, ladder and slide I added two coats of Minwax polycrylic water based protective finish. Sanding in between for a very smooth surface. Mostly to make the most touched areas last longer but also to make the slide really fast. I could see the light at the end of the tunnel. I started putting in the flooring. I had to cut around the posts and the sides but it turned out great and I'm glad most of the room is white or those colors would have been very busy looking. I also got my custom made nets in. I used a ridiculous amount of staples to attach it to the frame. See previous comment about over engineering things. Then I moved in the Lovesac and some toys. I had still not put the slide together becuase I started but stupidly used the same 1 1/2 screws I used for the brackets on the frame. Works great with 2x6s not so great with 3/4 thick plywood. I had to repair, sand, repaint, and refinish that part of the slide. Luckily it only took a day. I then installed the slide using the variable angle brackets, but the wall next to the slide is not square with the wall behind the playset that the platform is square with. The slide ended up being slightly crooked with the bottom moved over toward the ladder side. This left a gap at the connection of the slide and platform. I have not figure out how to fix that yet. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. At some point the TV went up, the chairs came in and the rest of the toys made it on the shelves. Having this separate area for the kids to play and keep all of their toys had made my wife's and my lives infinitly better. I could feel the weight off my shoulders. In case you are wondering the one area of the platform that doesn't have a net is for jumping out onto the Lovesac. Lessons learned. * Use a table saw not a circular saw for rip cuts and crosscuts to big for the miter saw. * Put the bead board up first then put the molding over it. * Double check what base the paint or primer you are use is. Make sure they all match. Oil with Oil, Water with Water. * Never use Liquid Nails again. Since they changed the fomula to be VOC compliant it has 1/3 the holding power it used to. Material List: * Plywood: was already here but something like THIS * Corner Trim: HERE * Long 2x6: Used for the ceiling anchor and front of frame. HERE * 2x6: used for the rest of the framing HERE * Chair rail: Just flat normal moulding made putting up the beadboard harder HERE * Bead Board: I don't recommend using a full sheet like I did HERE * Baseboard: same issue as chair rail. HERE * Original Primer: Works great with the paint sprayer HERE * Second Primer: didn't work as good in the paint sprayer HERE * Bad Oil Primer: Don't trust anyone else to pick up your paint or primer HERE * White Paint and Base for Blue: I use this all the time works good with kids. HERE * Minwax Polycrylic: Great water based protective layer that won't yellow HERE * Caulk: Needed like 8-10 tubes of this HERE * Color Blue: HERE * Foam Interlocking Tiles: worked perfectly for this HERE * Liquid Nails: this stuff is terrible don't buy but if you like being frustrated and angry HERE * Loctite: Much better than Liquid Nails HERE * Custom Netting: ordered two nets cost about $90 with shipping and taxes. Much better than anything else I found. HERE Hardware / Connectors: * Post Cap: HERE * Double 2x6 Joist hanger: Only used two near the posts * Single 2x6 Joist hanger: HERE * Corner Angle Tie: Used for the corners of the frames HERE * Face Post Cap: Used to tie the joists to the post where three joists meet 1 90 degrees to the others HERE * 90 Degree Angle tie: Used to tie the vertical supports to the ceiling anchor HERE * Flush Mount: Used to connect the ladder to the frame while allowing the ladder to be removed HERE * Variable Angle Tie: Used to connect the slide to the frame. Slide at a 30 Degree angle. HERE * 4in Angle Tie: Used to support the steps on the ladder. Ladder at 20 degree angele. HERE * Galvanized Screws: Recommended to work with the brackets. Probably didnt need to use these. HERE * Drain clean out cover: was set back had to use a block of wood to screw into HERE * Screws: for everything else but the brackets. Love star drive wish philips would disappear HERE * Post base: screwed into the concrete to support the posts HERE * Painter's plastic: HERE * Painter's Tape: HERE Tools: * Air compressor: already had this HERE * Pnuematic Nail gun: already had this HERE * Shop Vac: borrowed from Father-in-Law similar to this * Hammer Drill: barrowed from Father-in-Law similar to this * Occillating Mult-tool: borrowed from Father-in-Law similar to this * Circular saw: Use a table saw! similar to this * Jigsaw: works great for cutting the holes for outlets similar to this * Compound Miter Saw: already had this similar to this * Pnuematic Stabler: borrowed from brother similar to this * Paint Sprayer: borrowed from brother HERE Budget: * Original: $500 (pre-playset plans) * Ending: ~$1250. Saved a lot by having the plywood. Spent some by using so much bead board. * Already had most of the tools or could borrow them. Labor "free". Most of the cost was material. In case you were wondering: * Lovesac: Many different sizes ours is the Supersac. HERE * TV Mount: HERE * Roku Express: HERE * TV from yard sale. * Chairs from school closing. [link] [comments] |
| Removing furring strips from block wall Posted: 28 Jan 2021 08:07 PM PST Last year, I had some work done to have a weep wall put in down in the basement. This meant one of my 70s paneling walls had to go and I decided to refinish the basement. I pulled the rest of the paneling off and now I have a ton of furring strips nailed to the wall. I started pulling the wood off with a pry bar, but I'm nervous about damaging the block. A couple of nails pulled out along with the strip and left a 1 inch or so crater behind, which gave me pause. Most stay behind where the angle grinder will come for them later. Is there a better way to do this than working the strips off with a pry bar? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 08:02 PM PST I am pulling my hair out trying to get on top of a disgusting roach problem. We keep our kitchen clean but it's an old house with a lot of cracks and crevasses, and I think they are living in the oven and I don't know what to do about that (Having ant probs too but I can deal with that) I'm looking into getting the house fumigated or bug bombed but I don't know how invasive that is. Will we need to sleep somewhere else? Will we need to cover furniture or remove things from the house? Any other things to try I'm open too. We do have pets so I want to keep them safe. I'm having such terrible anxiety from this and it's embarrassing 😫 I swear we don't live in filth! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 07:59 PM PST I'm choosing paint colors for my master bedroom/bathroom and I've looked at so many similar shades of paint my eyes are crossing. I know I want a light green for the bedroom and a pale gray for the bathroom. I prefer cool tones and all of my furniture is mid-century/antique. I have a bunch of plants too, if that helps lol I also have a massive window on the main wall of the bedroom that faces east so I get the most lovely light in the morning that fills the room. I primarily want the wall color to look good in natural light. The bedroom floor is a mid tone gray concrete and the bathroom has wood looking tiles. I'm so close to the end of getting the master suite to be my dream room, but I'm stuck on the paint. It's hard to find pictures of the paint from real people and not just website staged/photoshopped pics. Any advice would be most welcome!! [link] [comments] |
| Finished our gutter project right before the big rains hit Posted: 28 Jan 2021 05:32 PM PST Album here: https://imgur.com/a/zCD1Uwi Commentary below My partner and I bought our first house before the rainy season started, and there were gutters only on the driveway side of this hip-style roof. There weren't any downspouts connected to the downspout holes and the first time it rained, the water was puddling in between the driveway and the wall of our house - honestly it might have been worse than having no gutters at all on that side of the house. We wanted to correct this issue and then add gutters along the other sides of the house, partly because we wanted the option to create some rain catchment systems so we can water the garden in the dry summer months. This was our first big DIY project besides fixing some of the interior doors, and we went into it not really knowing anything. I watched a lot of Youtube videos and after a trip to the Lowe's, we decided to use the Amerimax vinyl gutter systems since it seemed like the best for us in terms of value and ease of assembly. Our Lowe's didn't have a great selection of aluminum gutters, so we were more likely to find the vinyl parts. It also rarely rains here and never snows, so I felt comfortable going with vinyl even if they're a bit less reliable or durable compared to aluminum. Total cost of materials was just over 400$, including the additional gutter caulk/caulk gun and paint for the downspouts that we got. By far the priciest bit was the hangers - we ended up using about 60 of them at ~$2 each simply because we were putting up ~120 feet of gutter. We ran into a pretty big issue early on with the electrical point of attachment going directly into the middle of the fascia. Y'all gave me a lot of helpful advice and ultimately we decided to just avoid adding gutters on that entire side of the house especially because it would have been really tricky to do properly due to the electrical and an overgrown tree. Ultimately, the gutters went together really easily. I'd say we put in ~10 hours total buying and installing everything. The biggest challenge was making sure the gutters sloped in the correct direction since the top of the fascia wasn't level at all, so we couldn't just measure down from the top and snap a chalk line. The only level we have is a dinky 9" one, so we eventually ended up spraying water while we tightened things down to make sure we maintained a slope. We also only had a 6' ladder and giant extension ladder. We were both too short to see the screws while safely on the 6' ladder, and we could only put the extension ladder in places without gutters since it would interfere. There was some definitely unsafe ladder practices, but we didn't have the budget to buy a third ladder. Putting the downspouts together was definitely the most fun for me since we got to relax and do some painting, but drilling into the stucco siding was a bit harder than I anticipated. Thank goodness for masonry bits! It's been raining nonstop for the past 2 days here (woo!), and so far no leaks, no water spilling over the tops of the gutters, and the downspouts seem to be directing the water safely away from the foundation! Our next project is to get some more rain barrels and divert the downspouts to a proper rain catchment system! It's a bit sad watching allllll this water drain out to the ground... [link] [comments] |
| Zinsser BIN primer application Posted: 28 Jan 2021 07:19 PM PST We are closing on a house in February that has been smoked in for many years. After washing the walls we plan to use Zinsser BIN primer on all the walls and ceilings. I'm wondering what the best way to apply this would be? I've seen another thread asking for the best way to apply this particular primer- but it didn't really answer my question since the few people who answered assumed it was for a smaller project (to be used in smaller quantities). But it comes in a 5 gallon bucket- I can't imagine hand brushing the entire interior of a house is the best way to apply this primer. I suppose I could just call or email Zinsser..... [link] [comments] |
| What’s this thing do? Found in my 1930 house. Posted: 28 Jan 2021 04:59 PM PST Was poking around in my basement drop ceiling and I saw this old oddity. https://i.imgur.com/tcCaOGf.jpg House was built in 1930 but was fully renovated at some time in the 80's/90's. This is the first piece of "old" electrical equipment I've seen in this house. It appears to be wired to landline telephone wires. Also adjacent was a cloth covered ground wire with this tag. https://imgur.com/a/IwJ5s3d/ Just curious as to what these were for and why they might have been left in place. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 07:01 PM PST I have crown molding and very high ceilings with an open floor plan in my living room. My kitchen doesn't have the crown molding and has slanted ceilings multiple angles. Should I paint the ceilings an off white color or lighter gray? I don't want it to look awkward. My crown molding is white. [link] [comments] |
| Front load washer is leaking from the front, and I think it's the door not the gasket Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:58 PM PST I have an LG front load washer (mez41911003) and it just started leaking out of the bottom of the washer door. But when I pushed on the door of the washer to make a tighter seal with the gasket, it stopped the leaking. Playing around with it a bit more, I could see through the window of the door that pushing on the door made a tighter seal with the bottom of the gasket. This was because the bottom half of the door had some extra space between the door and the gasket that isn't present with the top half of the door, and the bottom half of the door could be pressed on to close the space and create a tighter seal. To me it doesn't seem like the gasket is the issue, and Ive cleaned it and don't see any tears/cracks. Instead it looks like the door needs some adjustment to create a better seal with the gasket. But I don't have much experience with washing machines, so any pointers would be appreciated. [link] [comments] |
| What is the cost to finish an already roughed-in bathroom? Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:54 PM PST I know there are a lot of variables, but before I go down the road of getting contractors out for quotes, I am trying to get an idea of how much this might cost. I have a basement bathroom that is already roughed in in regards to slab work and has the water lines capped above where it would be. This would be for a sink, toilet, and shower. There are framed walls on 2/4 sides. I am in Ohio if that helps. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 28 Jan 2021 06:37 PM PST We are trying to make our basement a little more comfortable for our kids to play in. We are leaving the ceilings and walls unfinished for now, but the floor joist cavities on the outside walls bother me. Some have old insulation, others are just bare. Any ideas on what could I do to improve the appearance of these? Floor joist https://imgur.com/gallery/eP5ts82 [link] [comments] |
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