Home Improvement: I started adding recessed lighting over the weekend... |
- I started adding recessed lighting over the weekend...
- What did I find behind my wall outlet?
- Finally built up courage to update some things in our kitchen
- Hiring a contractor is just as stressful as finding one. Any advice?
- Dryer venting inside ??
- PSA: if your subfloor is warped don't try to put new flooring on top of it.
- Need some input on my bathroom that feels like it’s from mental hospital.
- Letter in the mail that home insurance won't renew because I have galvanized pipes?
- Does an outlet have to be attached to a stud? Code?
- Bad luck with towel racks and toilet paper holders ripping out of drywall. Help!
- Is this roof a problem on my new construction home?
- Primer Questions: Re-Paining a Finished Basement
- Replacing old two-prong outlets with GFCI...why is this a bad idea?
- Underlayment/conduit/soundproofing?
- [HELP] Drilling holes near metal plates!
- Adding an island with used components
- How to get a certain kind of yellow stain out of bathroom’s linoleum floor?
- Don’t put it off
- Is this outlet stuck?
- Under contract: we get one chance at a walkthrough before close, what should we do?
- Old wiring, trying to fix grounding issue
- Looking for some advice on properly creating a deck lighting canopy
- Someone help me do this right - Cutting a doubled stud
| I started adding recessed lighting over the weekend... Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:52 AM PST Oh my lord it's like we live in a whole new house. My body is sore from playing Spider-Man in the attic but our rooms are SO much brighter. I should have done this two years ago when we moved in. For those who are considering, I've been using these canless, 6" LED lights. They work great and are really easy to install. Best of all, they are IC rated so I can cover them back up. I've had success with just my 25' fish tape. I also got one of those Milwaukee ceiling hole drillers and it's been pretty solid. It's a bit finicky but way better than sawing holes by hand. The hardest part has been supplying the power. I've had to get a bit creative with the electric but so far so good. I would highly recommend planning out your runs before cutting any holes. Photos don't totally do it justice, but here's a before/after of our bedroom. We only had the ceiling fan before I put the recessed lights in: https://imgur.com/a/hJiOzHN Total cost is about $450 for 3 rooms. Our bedroom and office each get 4 lights and our living room has 6. I spent $360 on lights, $50 for a 250' spool of 14-2 romex, $30 on the hole driller, and needed a couple new junction boxes. EDIT: I put this in a comment below, but here were my adventures with supplying electricity: All three rooms have been varying levels of difficulty, so I could see it being worth hiring out depending on your electrical skill set. The bedroom was relatively straight forward with the exception of having to use a dual switch in a single gang box, due to space limitations in the wall. The office was a cake walk. The living room on the other hand... I'm doing two switches - one for the light over the fire place and one for the rest of the lights. The junction box I had planned on using was an existing two gang box. One switch was a three-way with hallway lights (same circuit). The other switch controlled an outlet in the living room (different circuit). I disconnected the switched outlet and converted it to a regular outlet. Unfortunately this got rid of my only power source in the box, since the three way switch is the intermediary between the other switch and the load. No line. Thankfully the doorbell transformer (same circuit) is installed on the opposite side of the same wall. I branched off the line from this box into my switch box and expanded it to a three gang. One for the hallway, one for the fireplace light, and one for the rest. [link] [comments] |
| What did I find behind my wall outlet? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:29 PM PST Hi, all. About 6 months ago, I bought my first house. The house has only ever been rented, and was built in 1994. It had a lot of big ticket repairs and was a very good price for the area. The caveat being that the renters had beaten the crap out of most of the superficial parts of the house. I haven't found too much that's been irreparable, yet, even to a newbie like me. I basically gutted the inside and started over. The only thing is, I keep uncovering random issues where the renters had attempted to cover their violence towards the house. Tonight, I tried to plug in my Instant Pot and it wouldn't turn on. I figured it was just a faulty outlet, so I go to unplug it, and the ENTIRE OUTLET comes off, plate, plugs, and all. I'm assuming someone was trying to hide whatever this is supposed to be. I'm not even sure what to think of this thing. Is it even electricity? It's in my kitchen, under a window, near the floor. Any help would be appreciated. I know how to rewire an outlet, but I don't even know where to start with this thing. [link] [comments] |
| Finally built up courage to update some things in our kitchen Posted: 11 Jan 2021 11:03 AM PST We bought a small first home a few years ago and have been updating as we go. Our kitchen was always a focal point as we repainted the house inside and out to make it feel more open and bigger. The previous cabinetry was in bad shape for finish, sealant, etc and we debated between staining and painting. After looking at 20+ swatches and comparing the stain options, we opted for paint. Major thanks to this comment for concisely explaining the process: https://reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/kfno21/_/gg9j02l/?context=1 First, we removed all cabinets, hardware and hinges and placed them into numbered baggies. Ours didn't have a recessed hole under hinges so I sharpied the number inside the cabinet door below where the hinge was and painters taped it prior to priming to ensure it would be there when down. For sanding, I used a 150 grit block inside on all framing and a 150 grit on an skil 5" orbital sander on the cabinet doors once removed and in the garage. Then took a tack cloth to remove all dust from surfaces and spot checked to ensure all clear coat was gone and finish was sufficiently scuffed. From there we used Zinsser cover stain for priming via purdy 3/8" nap rollers. After first coat I did a light sanding with a 220. grit block. Once cured / dried, I applied a second coat of primer. Then once set, spot sanded with the 220 again. After a round of tack cloth we began painting. I started with inside cabinet doors, using a Home right brand paint gun off Amazon. Despite having to take it apart to clear drying paint between coats on some elements, it was very easy to use and adjust. We used Sherwin Williams HGTV home interior paint, color is Anew Gray in satin finish, and didn't require thinning for sprayer. HomeRight 2412331 Quick Finish... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087SY695N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share After first coat drying, I sprayed a second on inside. Once that was fully dry, I flipped them onto a few large pieces of particle board with nails driven through, to allow them to continue to cure while I painted the front, and to allow better angles for painting the sides. After first coat of frontal paint, I did have to lightly sand a few areas, mainly near where the front panel intersected the bordering pieces. Those areas were tack clothed again prior to the second coat. Once all paint had dried, we re-mounted the cabinets, replacing the handles and pulls with these: 5 Pack || 5" Matte Black Cabinet Pulls: 3" Hole Center Cabinet Handles Stainless Steel Kitchen 3 inch Drawer Pulls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FY4PKYL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_7.k.Fb5QJ9RF1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LNVRCT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. We also replaced the small felt pads on interior of course. We completed the cabinet and hardware updates over the past week, with two coats of primer, and two coats of paint. Roller for indoor framing and sprayer for cabinet doors themselves. Happy to have my garage back open without 20 cabinet doors sitting around, and we're happy with the results! Some will still say staining was the better call, but in the shape they were in and the aesthetic we've opted for in most of the home, I think this was the right decision. [link] [comments] |
| Hiring a contractor is just as stressful as finding one. Any advice? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:31 AM PST I would say for the last few months, I've been trying to find a masonry contractor. Many of them ghosted me after initial discussion, and many never got back to me. Some gave me a courtesy of telling me they are too busy and call back in a month or two. Understandable. The scope of the work is rebricking a section of the front of my house (a decent sized section, not really a small job). I had some luck, finally, but it's really hard to know who to go with. The quotes I received ranged from $1800 to $7000 and in between. I just don't know enough about masonry to know if these guys know what they are talking about. The couple low quotes I got were given to me after they saw photos. I decided not to go with them despite their price because they didn't even come look at it ($1800 and $2100). The few contractors that did come out vary a ton in price ($3300, $7000, and two more agreed to come out later this week to look). How do I know who to go with? Online reviews? I can't get a good feel on what a good price is, the right way to do it, etc. Some don't even really have online reviews. So far everyone who is coming out or agreed to come out has been professional and pretty responsive. Any thoughts? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 09:21 PM PST Hi, I'm really hoping someone can help... We purchased our home a few months ago, when we toured it, the previous owner had a tall dryer, that we couldn't really see behind, aside from knowing it was electric. We replaced it with a normal, front loading dryer, and didn't realize until after that there's an opening in the pvc, off the front of the vent that leads outside. It has a nylon sock over it, catching extra lint. It blows dust and lint around the whole basement when you turn the dryer on, and I'm afraid that if we're not carefully cleaning it, it'll turn into a fire hazard. I've never seen or heard of anything like this before. No one at Home Depot has understood what I'm talking about, and google hasn't been much help either. Fingers crossed someone here has seen what I'm dealing with before and has a tip of what I can do about it! TIA! [link] [comments] |
| PSA: if your subfloor is warped don't try to put new flooring on top of it. Posted: 11 Jan 2021 10:00 AM PST I recently bought a house and in the kitchen the subfloor was somewhat warped but due to time constraints I replaced the flooring and not the subfloor. Well it's now two months later and the flooring is cracking and breaking because of the warped subfloor. Now I get to cut out my new floor to replace the subfloor, don't make my mistakes. [link] [comments] |
| Need some input on my bathroom that feels like it’s from mental hospital. Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:09 PM PST So I was thinking tile around the tub, but wouldn't it look dumb if I didn't do the whole bathroom? Also, about the sink, I'm going to replace those mirrors with one ling 6 foot mirror. I also plan on changing out the light fixtures to something a little more class/crystal looking. And the window is being replaced with vinyl. Thought? [link] [comments] |
| Letter in the mail that home insurance won't renew because I have galvanized pipes? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 09:56 PM PST Just bought this house last year through VA home loan and the home insurance company didn't have a problem with accepting us, but a year later just a few weeks shy of renewing they send me a letter saying they won't renew because I have galvanized pipes and that's against their policy. Now I'm confused because why did they accept me in the first place? The thing is, on the first month living here, I had hired a small contract plumber to come and fix a small issue we had in our bathroom and he billed us for $300, but the bill didn't come in the mail until 4 or so months later (during covid) and the bill was lying around my house for a few days and I never found it (got lost) and I didn't remember who the plumber was or what company they were and I was never able to pay them because of that. I'm curious, do you think it's possible the plumber got mad out of spite for not receiving the payment & ran and told my insurance company just to give me a hassle? I've heard stories of plumbers doing these type of sabotage related things to customers who don't pay. Now I'm worried I'm a victim. Either way, now I'm afraid I'm gonna have to fork up alot of money I don't have right now just to get accepted for insurance again. being a new homeowner all of this stuff is very new to me and I know reddit is usually a place to come to for advice from more experienced adults. Any help on the matter would be cool thanks for your time [link] [comments] |
| Does an outlet have to be attached to a stud? Code? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 04:49 PM PST I'm looking to add a couple outlets in my kitchen. Never done it before. Wondering if I can mount one in a spot that would actually be half way between studs. [link] [comments] |
| Bad luck with towel racks and toilet paper holders ripping out of drywall. Help! Posted: 11 Jan 2021 02:47 PM PST I guess I'm a bull in a China shop and have repeated issues of mounting these items and having them rip out. The last time I used 50lb drywall anchors to attach my toilet paper holder. It's complicated by the fact the wall it's mounted on is the same wall as a pocket door so no option for somehow getting to mounted into a stud. So, question is how can I mount these to drywall and make it so the house will need to come down before the towel or toilet paper holders come down? [link] [comments] |
| Is this roof a problem on my new construction home? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:23 PM PST Just bought a new construction from Lennar, I went in the attic and noticed daylight shining through a section of my roof. Gap is pretty large probably about an 1.5" Is this something I should worry about? How can I fix it? [link] [comments] |
| Primer Questions: Re-Paining a Finished Basement Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:10 PM PST I'm prepping to repaint my finished basement. There's no water damage, but the previous owners were slobs (and did some bad DIY painting). So I'm looking for a fresh start on these walls. Does the choice of primer make a difference? Is mold/mildew primer the only move when priming basement walls? [link] [comments] |
| Replacing old two-prong outlets with GFCI...why is this a bad idea? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:55 PM PST per my thread over on /r/electricians i'm getting the impression this isn't really the proper way to do things. that said, i've also read countless comments that say it is an ok solution... i'm lost here. [link] [comments] |
| Underlayment/conduit/soundproofing? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:40 PM PST In the process of removing the flooring in my house, one room at a time. The current flooring pops and creaks all over the house and efforts to mitigate (screws that crack off below surface) have not helped. Turns out there's a good reason for that. Apparently the floors(3/4 red oak) are supported by 1x2s spaced 16", because there's conduit running along the floor, from outlet to outlet. So instead of running it below the subfloor or up through the walls into the attic, they ran it along the damn floor. So, I'm now tearing it all up(not the subfloor) and putting down 3/4 plywood and 1/2 plywood (the new floor is only 1/4 thick and need to make up for the thickness of the 1x spacers and the old flooring). My question, what's my best option for adding some soundproofing for the floor, on the cheap? This room is directly above the family room in the basement and I'd like to reduce as much noise as I can, while staying cheap and easy. I've thought about adding a layer of MLV between the 2 new plywood layers, but that's a bit over my budget. [link] [comments] |
| [HELP] Drilling holes near metal plates! Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:12 PM PST This is happening on a drywall. I found my studs, checked it had no wires; however, I'm detecting metal about every 6inches apart vertically on the wooden stud. I'm guessing it's a protective plate. Can I drill holes in between these metal plates? [link] [comments] |
| Adding an island with used components Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:12 PM PST My current kitchen is an open concept with the living/dining area after removing a partition wall. It desperately needs an island. It would be a great place for that second sink I've always wanted and the only place I have room to put a dishwasher. I've read a lot of posts about people picking up used cabinets at the REStore or on Marketplace and building an island out of them. I also see a lot of listings for used islands or island cabinets near me. I'm somewhat comfortable building my own stuff, but I'm not at the point where I'm ready to build my own custom cabinets (both in time and confidence). I've considered the following few options. What are some of the complications/factors I might not be aware of?
To be clear, I'm not just trying to be cheap here. It seems a lot of people in my area have recently done kitchen remodels and have their old kitchen sitting in the garage, and I want to take advantage of that. I'm willing and have the tools to make something that works a lot better for me than the cookie cutter box store options. I'm here to make sure I know what I'm getting into. Notes:
[link] [comments] |
| How to get a certain kind of yellow stain out of bathroom’s linoleum floor? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:24 PM PST We're redoing one of the bathrooms, which was a kids' bathroom for the last two decades. The floor is linoleum, and while it's ugly as hell, we're not re-doing it. You can see the original color to the left of the picture, where the old sink cabinet was. Some yellowing is expected with age, that yellow stain to the left of the toilet is... well. It's a yellow stain in a kids' bathroom. Three guesses what that is and the first two don't count, and it's worse IRL than in the pictures. Ideally, we'd like to remove the stain without ruining the linoleum, and we're definitely not ripping up the floor. Worst case scenario, it stays and it's kind of gross, but any amount of stain removal helps. If such information is required, it's a second floor bathroom in the Midwest. I'm willing to shell out a few bucks for a solution, but not a ton. There are both cats and dogs in the house, so if a solution is too toxic, it won't work. Best guess is the stain is around ten years old; the floor is clean, just stained. We've been cleaning the bathrooms once a week for a decade with the old soap and water, and that hasn't done anything about the stain, and I'm hesitant to take bleach to urine stains unless I have some confidence it'll work, fumes and all. There's no window and ventilation isn't great, so ideally, I'm hoping for a solution that won't reek of chemical fumes forever. Any suggestions? I'm open to literally anything short of ripping up the floor. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:57 PM PST |
| Posted: 11 Jan 2021 04:44 PM PST I'm trying to replace this outlet. Having no luck finding similar ones online. Any idea on how to replace??? https://imgur.com/gallery/9JvnYQl What is this?? https://imgur.com/gallery/IM9Bgjg [link] [comments] |
| Under contract: we get one chance at a walkthrough before close, what should we do? Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:45 AM PST First of all this sub is phenomenal and so helpful already! We just had an offer accepted and the sellers prefer that we get everything we need done tomorrow before/after the inspection. We'll of course do a walk through with the inspector and I feel good about that, but what kinds of things should we be measuring and taking note of for planning purposes? Assuming everything goes through and we close, we'll be taking possession in 5 weeks. The house is more or less move in ready, but we do want to make some updates (no major renos) and start thinking about furniture and decor. What do you wish you had done while waiting to close? [link] [comments] |
| Old wiring, trying to fix grounding issue Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:28 PM PST Recently purchased a new home, did a grounding test and found that this outlet is not grounded properly. This metal receptacle appears to be capable of handling "self-grounding" outlets IF the outlet is screwed all the way in to the receptacle and fully flush. Unfortunately, because of how the receptacle is set back, an outlet can't quite reach it, so no reliable self-grounding occurs. I'd like to connect a pigtail ground directly to the outlet. My understanding is that a 10-32 nut with pigtail wire should suffice. Will this work? I don't see any hole in the receptacle that appears to be obviously intended for a grounding nut. [link] [comments] |
| Looking for some advice on properly creating a deck lighting canopy Posted: 11 Jan 2021 04:05 PM PST Hi HomeImprovement! This spring we'd like to spruce up the deck of our house a bit, and want to do so taking into account the age of the house. The technical aspects are pretty simple, so I don't suspect that to be an issue. We're concerned more about potentially damaging the house. First off, a picture of the deck and house. Heads up, I took the picture with a wide angle lens. It's not as big an area as the photo would lead you to believe. Ultimately, we're looking to take the string "bistro" lights that are attached to the trim of the roof and suspend them on a canopy over the main area of the deck. I figured we bolt two 4x4 beams to the corners of the deck; one where the photo was taken, the other in line to the house extension that cuts into the deck. We'd string some steel cable between the two poles, and from the poles to the house (elsewhere as needed), and zig-zag the lights across it. We'd double up on the current length of the string lights to accommodate this (they're LED, 24W so we have plenty of room off a single outlet). My concerns are primarily with the attachment to the house. I was initially planning to attach it to the roof trim, as it's wood and seems to be pretty sturdy. We've got concerns with that, though, and also the resultant height. The alternative would be to bolt it directly to the exterior wall, giving us another 4 feet or so of headroom. Given the house is originally from 1928, what's the recommended way of attaching a hook to the exterior wall? The house was renovated, but still has the original windows and doors (awful) so I suspect much the same for the exterior walls. It'd also have to bear the weight of the light chains, which are by no means lightweight. Not sure the exact weight, but I can try and figure that out if needed. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Someone help me do this right - Cutting a doubled stud Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:11 PM PST Attempting to open this hole up wider - I need to fit two 21" racks side by side under the stairs. This hole originally had a 2x6 header across. The existing cabinet is 21" wide. The pink stud on the left side of the hole is doubled. I'm assuming because it's the end of the wall, from that point continuing left is the stair handrail. I'm doubting this wall is load bearing, since the beam above would run the length of the wall and then some. I'd like to cut the pink studs, and run a 2x6 header to the next stud - but I don't want the next guy to badmouth me. Any pointers in doing this "The right way(tm")? [link] [comments] |
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