Home Improvement: Horizontal crack in wood beam underneath main floor - question about a fix |
- Horizontal crack in wood beam underneath main floor - question about a fix
- Roomba got under this and it popped off,
- how to repair a cracked ceiling?
- Is there any point in insulating a garage door in an uninsulated attached garage?
- Replacing Deadbolt and door lever
- Foundation Help
- Idk if this will be helpful but it certainly was for me. Minwax oil stains on a peice of maple plywood at 150grit and 220grit with and without pre conditioner
- Huge chunk out of load-bearing stud?
- Question - Want to caulk the interior of my windows - its 34F outside
- Measuring amount of blown-in insulation?
- Dog clawed at hardwood floors, can this be fixed?
- Ideas on how to fill in this hole in my ceiling?
- need to trim about 1/2" of granite for countertop range
- Replacing furnace and water heater, adding AC
- Questions on caulking gap between direct to stud tub surround enclosure and tile above it
- How to add fridge line
- Gas furnace short cycling, possible CFM issue?
- Heating Issue in 1 year old home
- Advice on dealing w/ fraudulent GC
- Why would you wire a double pole thermostat as single pole?
- Cleaning Excess Grout after a messy install
- How to paint next to grout?
- Advice on tiling backsplash (First Time)
- Oil paint or water based paint. Which is more durable ?
| Horizontal crack in wood beam underneath main floor - question about a fix Posted: 15 Jan 2021 01:03 PM PST Hello - during my home inspection my inspector noted "Monitor cracked girder for further activity, repair as needed. Recommend to install metal straps to reinforce girder." The crack has not moved for 3 months but my question is: what exactly do I need to buy to reinforce this? Not sure what to look for online, Home Depot, etc. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Pics: https://imgur.com/a/C2KIgnd Edit: thank you all for the suggestions! I've marked the crack for future movement and will attempt to mend/repair existing crack. Hopefully it won't cave in under the extreme weight of the banana. [link] [comments] |
| Roomba got under this and it popped off, Posted: 15 Jan 2021 02:16 PM PST This piece in between the tile and the flooring was already bowing upwards. Then the new xmas gift, the Roomba decided to get under it and take it off entirely. I plan on just gluing it down with some sort of wood glue. Is this the best way to go about it? If not, what is? [link] [comments] |
| how to repair a cracked ceiling? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 12:30 PM PST the paint on my ceiling or the plaster I'm not 100% sure. is starting to crack and separate from the rest of the ceiling how can I fix this? image for context https://imgur.com/a/8k9VoXj [link] [comments] |
| Is there any point in insulating a garage door in an uninsulated attached garage? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 12:08 PM PST I've been reading online that insulating just a garage door can raise temps (in winter) about 10 degrees F. It's a bit chilly in the winter when I walk to my car (yes I just hate the cold) so if I can easily or cheaply keep the garage 10 degrees warmer, I will. The garage is an attached 2 stall where none of the walls or the roof are insulated. Would just insulating the door give me the 10 degrees? or is it only a 10 degree difference if the rest of the garage is insulated as well? Michigan weather/temperatures. [link] [comments] |
| Replacing Deadbolt and door lever Posted: 15 Jan 2021 01:28 PM PST Hello all! I'm replacing our front door deadbolt with a smart lock and will also be replacing the lever so it matches. Is there any reason I need to keep a lock on the lever if I have the deadbolt? Can I just go with a regular lever with no lock? Should I use a fixed position lever in the case? I'm guessing I still want one that turns for basic functionality and to keep the door at least closed when the deadbolt isn't locked. Hopefully that made sense. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 15 Jan 2021 08:09 PM PST Looking for some recommendations here. I have recently had a foundation poured for my new construction house. When looking over it, I found a place where it was starting to crack and the vapor barrier showing through. Foundation seems very thin to me. Planning to have a licensed independent inspector give a second opinion on this, but wondering what you guys think/ suggest. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 15 Jan 2021 10:46 PM PST From left to right: 150 grit no conditioner, 220 with no conditioner, 150 with conditioner, 220 with conditioner. Top row is minwax honey bottom row is minwax espresso Pre conditioner was applied ten minutes before stain, stains were left on for 7 minutes. The small dot in each square of the honey row is a hole about the size of a finish nail hole filled Elmer's pro bond wood filler to see how it accepted stain. Filler cured for 20 hours prior to staining and was sanded at the same grit as the section. [link] [comments] |
| Huge chunk out of load-bearing stud? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 08:18 AM PST In the midst of a kitchen remodel I found that some psychopath had carved a huge chunk out of a stud behind the sink. The cutout is a little over 6" tall. There is only about 1/8" material left in the stud, and it's a load bearing wall. I'm going to be tearing off all the plaster anyway, so is my best bet just to sister it up with a new stud (anchored to the old stud and the top and bottom plates)? Or should I just try not lying awake at night, knowing it's there? [link] [comments] |
| Question - Want to caulk the interior of my windows - its 34F outside Posted: 15 Jan 2021 12:18 PM PST So I noticed that the caulk on the inside part of my windows - along the sill and frame - is splitting. Its 34F here today. I'm assuming that if I do this it will be ok because my home is heated. Or should I wait until its warmer outside to caulk these? [link] [comments] |
| Measuring amount of blown-in insulation? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 12:15 PM PST New homeowner here. Recently had a contractor blow in cellulose insulation. The person blowing it said it was 16''. The job supervisor later said it was 14.5''. Later, I went up with a long ruler and measured a few areas I could reach near the hatch. The values were generally 10-12'' (though obviously there was plenty of area I couldn't reach...) I went back to look in the contract and realized it doesn't say the exact height that will be blown in, so I'm guessing I'm out SOL - but this contractor has been reasonably accommodating (if not incompetent). I could try to have them verify the amount blown in and potentially ask for a bit more. Any thoughts on this? I'm sure they won't *want* to do that… Update: Coincidentally one of them just stopped by. I ran it by him and he agreed it seemed lower than usual. Sounds like they're going to blow more in. Fingers crossed this works out... [link] [comments] |
| Dog clawed at hardwood floors, can this be fixed? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 12:33 PM PST Aside from never giving my dog her toy on the hardwood again, not sure if there's anything I can do 😢 [link] [comments] |
| Ideas on how to fill in this hole in my ceiling? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 01:36 PM PST I have this hole in my ceiling (photo link below) from an old A/C unit's drip line, and I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on how I can patch it up. My initial thought is to just treat it like a normal hole in the wall, and cover it up using a mesh patch and some spackling. If anyone else has more ideas I'd love to hear them! Thanks in advance. [link] [comments] |
| need to trim about 1/2" of granite for countertop range Posted: 15 Jan 2021 09:32 PM PST replacing my old stove, new one doesnt fit existing cut out by about 1/2 inch from the top. Looks like people use angle grinders for this but Im dreading with dealing with the dust on my newly stained white kitchen. I see they have files for granite... Could that possibly be a viable option? thanks [link] [comments] |
| Replacing furnace and water heater, adding AC Posted: 15 Jan 2021 06:16 PM PST Hi all, Looking for advice on what options I have for this project. I live in Seattle in a 3000 sqft split level home. Currently I have a forced air gas furnace, electric water heater, and no AC system. The furnace is 23 years old and the water heater is 21. The water heater is leaking a bit at the bottom and is starting to struggle when taking longer showers. I'm definitely replacing the water heater in the near future. Thinking of replacing the furnace as well as the efficiency is low and our gas bill is fairly high. My options: Water Heater (It's next to the gas furnace but would still need a gas line hooked up)
Furnace/AC
Anyone have suggestions? There are just so many options it's hard to know what's the best way to choose. [link] [comments] |
| Questions on caulking gap between direct to stud tub surround enclosure and tile above it Posted: 15 Jan 2021 06:15 PM PST I absolutely hate caulking. My father in law helped me with the rest of the project, but isn't able to help finish the final touches. Last thing that's left is caulking horizontally between the tub enclosure and the tile. It's probably about a 3/16" gap but also goes in front to back quite a bit as well. Also, what are thoughts on white vs the grout matching caulk color? Any general tips on caulking this? I've only caulked a couple times in corner areas and it got real sloppy. Also, I should not grout this area, right? I would love to use grout to prevent mildewy caulk, but I heard that was a bad option due to cracking, is that accurate? Thanks in advance!! I'm definitely a super novice when it comes to home improvement. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 15 Jan 2021 06:10 PM PST How and where would you add the water line for a fridge? The fridge is one floor up about two feet left of the red arrow. I don't want to do a saddle valve. What point of these water pipes would be the best place to tap in? Would I need to cut a whole new pipe? Sorry for all the basic questions, I haven't done much plumbing work yet. Thanks [link] [comments] |
| Gas furnace short cycling, possible CFM issue? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 10:44 PM PST My furnace has been shirt cycling since the start of the season, but we did not have any issues the previous two years. The first time, I replaced the MIRV 11 K&M washable filter with a Filtrete Basic 14×20×1. I had decided that the furnace was starved for air with too fine of a filter, and decided if I change the basic cheapo ones once a month, should be dandy. I changed the filter 15 days ago, and tonight we are short cycling again. Removing the filter entirely allows the furnace to run no problem, so I still feel confident in the air flow diagnoses. So here is where my question lies. The intake duct has an (empty) Space-gard 2200 box built in, as well as a 14x20x1 slot next to it. We have always used the 1" slot, and I assumed it was just put there by the previous owner because 2200 filters are a little pricey for a family that may be tight on money. If I were to purchase 2200 filters, would the CFM rating be enough difference to prevent air starving? The furnace is 59,000 BTU and the home is a roughly 1500 square foot bungalow. Is it normal for the 14x20x1 basic filter to be clogged after 15 days, or is it just not rated for the air flow of this size furnace? The filter i just took out was not visibly dirty or caked with anything, but had some serious deflection from being pulled toward the blower. Thank you in advance for any insight! [link] [comments] |
| Heating Issue in 1 year old home Posted: 15 Jan 2021 03:44 PM PST Is it normal that cool air is coming out of my vents when I have the thermostat set at 25° celsius? My house always feels cold unless I put it at 25/26. I remember I never exceeded 23/24 in my old homes even when it was the middle of winter. Our house is a new build, moved in Feb 2020. [link] [comments] |
| Advice on dealing w/ fraudulent GC Posted: 15 Jan 2021 02:49 PM PST I had a contractor who started working for me on a project that's partially covered by an insurance claim. Looking back on it, I should've seen they were crooked from the start, trying to keep amounts related to work performed by others who aren't their subs, dubious "labor minimums" on the estimate, scheduling the job in the wrong order for what I'm assuming are suspect reasons, making mistakes and hiding them, etc. A lot went down and I fired them. Now they're trying to bill $5,800 in addition to what they've already been paid under deposit, which is about $1,000 over what they've earned for work actually performed under an extremely overly generous agreement. Their rationale is that they "helped with insurance" and there's costs related to that, which is insultingly obvious nonsense. All they did was provide an estimate to insurance, maybe process one set of revisions for the claims adjuster's disallowed items, and they did so well before I was under a signed agreement. My state strictly prohibits contractors from acting as public adjusters, so even if I had agreed to pay them a percentage of the claim, which I did not and I never would have, I don't think it would be a legally enforceable provision. I know I have basically no practical chance of collecting the $1,000, unless he's dumb enough to try and foreclose on a spurious lien, in which case I'll happily finance my lawyers' fees until such time as the judge awards them back to me along with any other damages. Does the collective wisdom of the subreddit have any other ideas on dealing with this creep? Should I spend a few $ on a lawyer for peace of mind? This scumbag surprisingly has no internet reputation, no complaints on file w/ BBB. He's been operating this particular business for two years, and I think before that he just an employee for other restoration contractors. Should I blow him up with online complaints? My state doesn't seem to have a state registry for GCs. If he's licensed it's through a municipality I haven't found it. I know $1,000 isn't a lot of money, not even the $5,800 he's fraudulently demanding is worth litigating over. I doubt he'd sue. I'm sure he'll threaten. Maybe he'll file a lien and let it expire. I realize I'm obsessing as one does when they've been victimized. Let me know your thoughts, please. Thanks. [link] [comments] |
| Why would you wire a double pole thermostat as single pole? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 12:23 PM PST I was changing out double pole line voltage thermostats and found one that was wired as a single pole : https://imgur.com/a/nR9VWly. They've just used a wire nut to connect the two wires and then only connected the other two wires as single pole. Any reason why someone would do this? Any reason I shouldn't just wire it as double pole? [link] [comments] |
| Cleaning Excess Grout after a messy install Posted: 15 Jan 2021 09:55 PM PST We've installed textured tile in our bedroom and this is our first time tiling and grouting. Everything went very smooth including the grouting, but now we're doing everyone's favorite part. Cleaning the excess grout. Our install was admittedly pretty messy so we have a layer over all the tiles. Elbow grease has been getting a lot of it up, but we're worried about getting all the grout up from the textured tiles the next day and through the weekend. Is there something recommended to help get up excess grout a bit faster then the speed we're working? We've been using steel wool and hot water which helped a lot, but we know it's going to only be harder tomorrow. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 15 Jan 2021 06:03 PM PST Hi all, I'm about to paint the bathroom ceiling. The walls a tiled and there's a line of grout between the top tile and the ceiling. I feel sure that covering the grout with tape will not be enough to prevent seepage under the tape. YouTube suggests that the best way to prevent seepage is to use tape as normal but to apply a smear of caulking along the tape edge to act as a plug preventing seepage under the tape. Has anybody tried this technique? Any other ideas? [link] [comments] |
| Advice on tiling backsplash (First Time) Posted: 15 Jan 2021 04:39 PM PST Evening redditors, I've decided to undertake the task of getting rid of my current backsplash and putting up a new one. I will be using this 3x6 tile https://www.flooranddecor.com/marble-decoratives/sahara-carrara-marble-tile-100417823.html#q=Carrara%2B3x6&search-button=&lang=default&start=2 which will be laid out in a staggered pattern. I've spent some significant time researching on how to go about tiling and such. I however did have a few concerns I was not able to address searching online. Here is a link to some images of my kitchen to help with my questions below: https://imgur.com/a/FIiOi9Z
I may have some more questions in the future, but I think this should cover my concerns at the moment. Thanks ladies and gents! [link] [comments] |
| Oil paint or water based paint. Which is more durable ? Posted: 15 Jan 2021 09:37 PM PST Oil paint or water based paint. Which is more suitable? [link] [comments] |
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