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    Home Unlabelled Home Improvement: PSA: Here is how you know when your tile installation was bad -- takes 1 second

    Home Improvement: PSA: Here is how you know when your tile installation was bad -- takes 1 second

    November 02, 2020

    Home Improvement: PSA: Here is how you know when your tile installation was bad -- takes 1 second

    PSA: Here is how you know when your tile installation was bad -- takes 1 second

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 03:03 PM PST

    This post is a result of the person with the bad shower install among other posts here.

    Knock on the tile with your knuckles. If it sounds like a wood block from school, it has a hollow cavity below it. It will crack or separate soon.

    If it is dull and hurts your hand, it is good.

    That's it!

    This is why you put down enough thinset guys. Don't be cheap with this step.

    submitted by /u/chmod-77
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    Tile installer removed some freshly installed tile to fix an error, and I noticed there's very little mortar behind the tile. I want to get second opinions before bringing it up with the installer; does this look right to you?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 10:54 AM PST

    Photo of tile: https://imgur.com/sIhuGyT

    A quick Google search tells me there should be 95% coverage, and this looks like way less than that. Was this properly installed tile?

    submitted by /u/sargunv
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    Are there tools to help navigate my roof easier?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 03:57 PM PST

    I attempted to install Christmas lights today but I almost slid off twice. Our roof is pitched around 45 degrees about 30 feet off the ground at its peak.

    I can get onto the roof no problem with my ladder, but I am far from secure once I'm up there.

    I have seen things like the "ladder goat" but I'm not going to invest $500+ just to hang some lights.

    Are there any tools or tips to navigating a pitched roof easier?

    submitted by /u/FullstackViking
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    Who do I call to have my electric stove switched to gas?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 05:17 PM PST

    We are buying a home that has a gas powered instant water heater off of the kitchen. The current stove is electric but ours is gas. Before we move in who do I call to set up a gas hookup for our stove? And how expensive is this in anyone's experience (live in Georgia,USA) for reference.

    submitted by /u/temetnosce93
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    Cat-Proofing My TV

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 06:22 PM PST

    Not sure if this is the correct place for this question, but it seems like something y'all will know.

    I have a 1 year old cat named Mirin who is an absolute cuddle-bug with a great personality. BUT he love love loves to knock stuff over--full cups of liquid, lamps, pill bottles, fabric anything. He's also super clumsy

    So, I'm worried that hes going to end up knocking over my tv--either intenionally or unintenionally. The issue comes in because I rent a house with only brick interior walls, and I'm technically not allowed to put holes in walls. Any idea as to how I can keep the tv from toppling off my entertainment stand?

    submitted by /u/king_cicada
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    Double sided tape ripped off paint

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 08:59 PM PST

    Exactly what the title says. I imagine I sand it down maybe and then repaint? Here's the damage

    I also have 2 more on my wall like this so I'm assuming maybe a hairdryer might help?

    I did a test strip that did fine but I guess prolong sitting did something idk?

    I also have no idea if I should just get plain white paint and try to match it.. I obviously can't ask my landlord

    submitted by /u/gravija-jpg
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    What to use to recover stairs

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 08:29 PM PST

    We had carpet on our steps, but tore it off a while ago because it was dirty and gross. We want to recover it in something besides carpet. We have some leftover sheet vinyl from another project and are wondering if we could cover the stairs in that. If so, how would we need to cut it? Could we use one long sheet or should we cut pieces for each tread and each rise? Or is there better material you would recommend?

    submitted by /u/awkwardmadre
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    Finishing basement: What to consider?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 10:07 AM PST

    I'm considering finishing my basement but I want to ensure I can vet my yet-to-be-hired contractor's work. What do I need to know about this project? I live in a 1940's cape code style house with a 1500sqft basement. The drylok is showing some staining which means water needs to be diverted from the house. It would also need an egress installed. I would probably finish the walls and the flooring but keep the ceiling open so it's easy to do any work on wires/pipes/etc.

    submitted by /u/ml8888msn
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    What’s this line on our countertop

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 09:35 PM PST

    I just noticed this line in our kitchen countertop. I am not sure if this a crack or discoloration? We bought this house a month ago, and we may have just seen this for the first time. Any ideas on what this is? And if it can be fixed or if it points to a larger problem?

    Pics:

    discoloration in countertops

    Thanks in advance!

    submitted by /u/ooh_a_plane
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    Poop or sewage smell when heat is on?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 05:44 PM PST

    We just started using the heat the other day, and it smelled like it usually does at first... kinda stinky/burny but nothing significant. Today though, we turned it on and it smelled like poop or sewage. Not an animal smell, but like someone had pooped in the vents. It's really foul.

    Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you!!

    Edit: It's definitely a human poop smell, like raw sewage or something.

    submitted by /u/OkSeaworthiness9531
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    Basement is Leaking Where the Floor Meets the Wall

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 11:18 AM PST

    Our city sewer backed up into our basement when our aging cast iron check valve/back flow flap ceased opened due to mineralization and corrosion. Our home, built in 1969, has an interior drain tile with no sump pit, but has a steel access panel to the check valve/cleanout. The interior tile appears to be terracotta and partially clogged.

    It wasn't until I gutted our basement that I visually realized areas of the foundation were weeping and/or leaking, including the cove joint. I understand the need to relieve the hydrostactic pressure on the outside of the house and have a larger plan to excavate, seal, and insulate. In the short term, I have successfully fixed numerous points of water entry by back cutting (interior and exterior) cracks and filling tie-rod holes with hydraulic cement. The biggest foundation leak is a 4' section where the floor meets the wall and I suspect the drain tile is collapsed.

    Here are my thoughts, what are yours?

    1. Pay someone to use a lateral camera to televise drain tile and confirm structural integrity.
    2. Pay someone to water jet the drain, knowing the jet may not make it around any 45° corners.
    3. Hammer chisel the joint and patch with hydraulic cement.
    4. Install new sump box, flush mount lid and in ground check valve to prevent future sewer back up.

    TL;DR: Basement is leaking where the floor meets the wall. How can I find the root cause and remediate?

    submitted by /u/Keystroke13
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    First time homebuyer that just went through inspection on a 100-year-old house. Help?!

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 05:40 PM PST

    first time home buyer. these were the issues that came up and i'm curious if these are negotiation points or something that should be expected and not worth arguing.

    are any of these issues more glaring/concerning than others? the inspector did say to me multiple times how great of a house it was and that he would "tell his kids to buy it".

    Roof

    • The roof shingles are in satisfactory condition. Shingles of this type and quality will have an expected life of 25 years or so.
    • The original cedar shingle roof installed over furring strips is still on the house. It will be necessary to remove this cedar roofing and install plywood roof sheathing when the roof is replaced in the future.
    • This is an expense that has been deferred by the past owners.
    • The flat roof of the den is covered with tar coated asphalt roofing material. This roof had been recently patched and painted. This aluminum paint is designed to deflect the sun and extend the life of the roof.
    • Flat roofs require frequent re-sealing to prevent leaks. No evidence of leaking was visible on the interior.

    Electrical

    • The electrical service is provided by overhead wires. The electric meter is located in the basement.
    • The service entrance cable is properly secured to the exterior of the house.
    • This electric service is considered adequate/minimal by modern standards. There is no room for expansion in the main panel.
    • The installation of a cover is required on a junction box in the ceiling of the rear crawl spaces. This is a minor cost to correct but is unsafe in its present condition.
    • The junction box covered on the wall at the top of the basement staircase should be sealed to prevent accidents.
    • The operation or testing of electromagnetic circuit breakers is recommended periodically to assure serviceability. Our inspector is not permitted to field test circuit breakers during the inspection.
    • Some of the electrical receptacles are the original, two pronged, ungrounded type. It is required that all outlets serving the kitchens, bathrooms, laundry/utility rooms, garages, workshops, and exterior receptacles be provided with modern three prong grounded electrical receptacles.
    • Houses of this age do not have an adequate number of electrical receptacles in some rooms. It will be necessary to use extension cords or run new electrical lines to rooms when electrical use increases.
    • A spot check of several selected electrical receptacles using an electrical polarity test meter indicates satisfactory conditions.
    • The installation of GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS (GFCI) should be considered for all receptacles where water is used, i.e., kitchens, bathrooms, jacuzzi and hot tubs, laundry/utility rooms, workshops, basements, crawl spaces, garages, swimming pools and exterior receptacles. It is an inexpensive item to add this protection to the main panel or directly to the recommended receptacles.
    • No evaluation is made of insulation on electric wires. Electrical coatings are made of many difference compositions, each designed for specific use and location. Whenever alterations or remodeling work is conducted, older wiring should be upgraded.

    Heating

    • AGE OF BOILER: Approx. 24 years old (manufactured in 1996)
    • The expected life of a boiler/heating plant of this type is approximately 25 to 30 years or so.
    • The heating system is in working order. The system was operated by use of thermostatic controls.
    • A full evaluation as to the effectiveness of every control or radiator cannot be made within the time frame allocated for this inspection.

    Front Entrance

    • The brick front entry (porch & steps) appears to be the original structure built with the house.
    • The top step is approximately 2 inches taller than the others. The uneven step heights creates a tripping hazard.

    Basement

    • There are two sump pumps on the left side of the basement.
    • There was water in each sump system at the time of the inspection. This indicates that the pumps are required to control ground water conditions.

    Plumbing

    • The service entrance pipe is made of brass. This appears to be original. The condition of life expectancy of a buried pipe cannot be determined. Based on its age, replacement should be expected in the near future. This is costly as a six foot deep trench must be dug between the house and the street.

    Garage

    • The asphalt shingle roofing is estimated to be 20 years old. The roof is in satisfactory condition. The moss growth on the left side is a cosmetic issue.

    • The original cedar shingle roof is still on the garage (visible from the interior). These old roof layers will have to be removed when the roof is replaced in the future.

    • GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER protection is the recommended in the garage electrical receptacle. This is a required safety device.

    submitted by /u/Heavy_Cheddar
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    Is any amount of mold ok under a hardwood floor?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 09:20 PM PST

    So about a month ago we had a stormwater drain clog on the side of our house and some water got under our engineered hardwood floors in one room. The floors are just floated on top of bare concrete. I assumed I had to rip up all the flooring but only a few boards are warped near the water source. There is some mold underneath the floor, mostly around the glue but the wood is dry now according to the moisture meter. There isn't any mold at all on the concrete itself.

    I know not all black mold is the dreaded "black mold" but should I get it tested? Is a little mold under the flooring ok or will it continue to grow even though the wood has dried?

    I realize the obvious solution is to replace all the boards but that will involve demoing most of the room and I'd really like to avoid ripping up more of the floor if possible. That being said, I also don't want to live in a health hazard!

    Here are some pictures of the boards with the most mold I found for reference:

    If anyone has experience with remediation and can weigh in on the need for replacement I'd really appreciate it. Thank you!

    submitted by /u/cantstandbubbletape
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    Recaulking bathtub that had grout along the edge?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 01:09 PM PST

    I bought a house last year and instead of caulking along the edge of the tub whoever did it used grouting all the way down and now it's cracking and molding. It's easy enough to remove where it's cracked but on the side opposite the shower head it's pretty solid. What's the best way to go about caulking the tub? Can I just remove the bad parts and caulk over the in tact parts?

    submitted by /u/PuzzleHawk
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    Hey there! I tried landscaping but I got no bites. I thought maybe y’all could advise me in this water feature. Thanks!

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 07:00 PM PST

    What’s your favorite all purpose glue/adhesive?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 05:24 PM PST

    Something strong that lasts a long time.

    submitted by /u/austin-357
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    Fireblock foam when drilling between floors?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 09:09 PM PST

    I am attempting to run an ethernet cable from the main floor to my office in the basement, but what I'm unclear about is how am I supposed to fill the hole with fireblock foam once the cable has been fished through? The opening will be about 12" off the floor, the top top plate is probably another 12" below. Short of cutting out a huge chunk of drywall so I can shine a light and see where I'm spraying, or just spray blindly, I'm not quite sure how installers do it?

    submitted by /u/DevilFishPhil
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    Matching a wood stain to Castanho

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 06:41 PM PST

    Hoping you guys can help 😀 Purchased a queen bed for my new house in a gorgeous castanho finish. I have 2 nightstands that are unfinished; plain wood, and would like to stain them in a similar stain to that castanho tone. I know basic wood finishes but having trouble trying to find a stain that will give me a similar color.

    Has anyone ever worked with this castanho wood finish? Or know what color family it would be a part of? Any help is appreciated!

    https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdx/foundstone-grady-solid-wood-platform-bed-w001833682.html

    submitted by /u/pfermin
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    How do I keep lint from my washing machine out of my septic tank and do I need to?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 10:16 AM PST

    I've read that lint from the washer can clog up septic tanks and shorten the life of your system. Is this something worth preventing now or not really an issue? I've seen setups that filter the water if you have a slop sink but mine just goes right to the wall.

    submitted by /u/qdtk
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    Gas furnace maintenance - what is really needed?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 07:52 AM PST

    How important is it to have annual preventative service on a high efficiency natural gas furnace?

    I keep the filter, condensate pump, air intake/exhaust and blower wheel clean. The igniter is a few years old.

    What can go wrong with this setup that would be prevented by a professional inspection? Is it reasonable to just have service every two or three years?

    Thanks

    submitted by /u/sound41gardener
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    [Help Idea] Neighbors Are Smokers: How to insulate Window Fan in Winter for Temporary Use?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 08:51 AM PST

    Greetings

    I certainly have researched DIY / HomeImprovement and the internet before posting here.

    Neighbors in my apartment building do enjoy smoking cheeba, and were kind enough to agree to install a window fan to ventilate their smoke and not hot box the building. See this link for a standard window fan https://www.amazon.com/Holmes-Dual-Blade-Window-White/dp/B00008XET9

    With the winter coming I would like them to keep using the fan. It has been a huge improvement of quality of life for their smoke not to waft into my apartment. It works extremely well. But I can't imagine anyone when they are smoking would want to put in and take out the fan every time when it is cold.

    I am looking for a way to temporarily insulate the window fan when they are not using it. I had the idea to build a custom "insulated box" they could put up and down, but don't know exactly how I would do this. Or something like a permanently mounted additional door / window they could slide out of the way when not using the fan. They do not need to open this window in the winter.

    Thank you very much for your time and any suggestions or directions to point me towards. My girlfriend is an engineer so I am confident that any ideas we would be able to build.

    Thank you!

    submitted by /u/Geo_Music
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    Were these deck stairs rebuilt correctly?

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 12:06 PM PST

    In my last post, I outlined issues with interior stairs (that the GC has now agreed to replace).

    Well, the same contract i signed includes other work to my house, including a correction/rebuild of my 2nd story deck stairs that had started leaning/sinking. The supports had never been sunk into concrete, so over time the posts began to sink and the steps started listing and separating. They poured small concrete holes for the posts and replaced a stringer, and did some other things that I don't quite understand. However, it just doesn't look quite right/finished?

    Can I please have someone's opinion on the work done here? The steps now feel sturdy enough (except the bottom one which is kinda bendy?)...but it looks like they forgot to cut the piece off the end? And there's parts underneath that don't look like they should be there?

    When I asked the GC, he said it's exactly as it should be, and the deck itself will fail/fall before the steps ever do now.

    Unfortunately I don't trust what he says any longer, but I don't know how it SHOULD look - and maybe he's right?

    pics here.

    submitted by /u/xkisses
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    Tool storage in small space

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 11:21 AM PST

    Hello - I live in a small condo with very limited storage, and own a lot of tools (I'd rather buy tools and learn how to do something than spend more money hiring someone). My issue is, the tools have more or less taken up the tiny laundry room shelves and that's about all the space I have. In effort to save my marriage, I did just buy a Milwaukee packout system (great sale at HD) (link for pic) that I can squeeze in a corner of the closet, which gets my tools out of sight, but feel a little guilty owning something like that that won't be moving much beyond my house (when I upgrade to a house in the burbs, I'm sure it'll be very useful). It's also does take up a lot of room.

    Do any of you have any other ideas for me? Is there anything else I should be looking for besides the packout? Thanks!

    https://imgur.com/a/0O207Fj

    submitted by /u/narddog15
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    Question: Mounting tv mount with toggle bolts...

    Posted: 02 Nov 2020 09:50 PM PST

    I mounted a tv mount for my 40" tv with toggle bolts and the mount is wiggling around. I'm not too comfortable with it. I used 2 1/4" toggle bolts which can hold up to 80 lbs, and my 40" tv sure isn't 80lbs.

    Anyway, reason I used the snap toggle bolts because the entire wall area has AC live wire somewhere behind it when I used the stud finder. The previous owner had tv mounted on this wall before, but I can't reuse the 4 holes that they had. We tried to drill into a stud, but we heard a really high pitch sound which could indicate a metal to metal friction. Which makes me worried to drill further.

    What should I do? Can I trust these toggle bolts will do it's job? The mount and tv wiggles left/right easily. For reference, this is the tv mount that I have.

    Mounting Dream Full Motion TV Wall Mount Corner Bracket with Perfect Center Design for Most of 26-55 Inch LED, LCD, OLED Flat Screen TV, Mount with Swivel Articulating Arm, up to VESA 400x400mm MD2377 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QOOZ4DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O9oOFbR67R5WF

    Please help!

    submitted by /u/nowaynorway1
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