Home Improvement: People Who've Built There Own Garages, What Was Your Experience? |
- People Who've Built There Own Garages, What Was Your Experience?
- Electrical Contractor wants 50% up front to start the job, is this reasonable?
- Slow toilet drain, pulled out tree roots from the toilet pipe, what should I do?
- What did you pay for a custom glass shower enclosure? (NJ)
- New house with French drains, what do I do?
- Homeowners of Reddit, what failed, broke, or began to malfunction after purchasing your home?
- Diy Gas Fireplace Repair
- Mounting large TV, are 4 lags enough?
- Trim paint - I'm so lost
- Drywalling a low ceiling in a small room without a drywall jack?
- Would there be any reason to not connect ground wires in outlet boxes?
- Alternatives to IKEA for ready-to-assemble (RTA) cabinets?
- Basement bathroom rough-in - plumbing finishing layout
- Can I run new wire for my doorbell? How?
- Major repairs and renovations starting but should I use a contractor?
- Did my first drywall patch's, need some advice on how to continue.
- Help with cleaning mold/mildew from tub edge.
- Is it okay to make minor patches in plaster walls with AP joint compound?
- How I fixed leaky old can lights
- Toilet grease?
- Security door closes loose
- Reno Problem - Old House and Baseboards
- Tips for cutting rock lath ceiling?
- Caulking after painting the baseboards?
- How to re-caulk a frameless glass shower?
| People Who've Built There Own Garages, What Was Your Experience? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 11:47 AM PDT I am planning to build my own, and was curious what those who have built heirs would give for info, recommendations, etc. I plan to go for a floor-plan of 32x28 with taller walls for 4 post vehicle lifts. Thanks for any info or insight! [link] [comments] |
| Electrical Contractor wants 50% up front to start the job, is this reasonable? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 10:47 AM PDT Hey everyone, first time homeowner here. Long story short, I have had some issues recently that will require new service from meter socket to the panel inside. I got a quote from a company that seems to be a reputable one based on various reviewing platforms, the electrician that came by for the estimate seemed knowledgeable and professional. I got the quote this morning, and the pricing is very reasonable - but start of work is contingent on 50% payment up front to start the work. I've had absolutely 0 experience hiring anyone for this type of work - and I am just wondering if this seems reasonable given the work described. [link] [comments] |
| Slow toilet drain, pulled out tree roots from the toilet pipe, what should I do? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 01:37 PM PDT Plumber is suggesting to run a camera down the drain to see where the pipe breaks and dig down to fix it. But it seems to be very expensive. I have also tried root killer product from amazon 3 times in the past 5 months, but didn't see much improvement. What's the best way to solve this? Thanks [link] [comments] |
| What did you pay for a custom glass shower enclosure? (NJ) Posted: 16 Oct 2020 05:52 PM PDT We're not sure if this is normal for our area or if it's covid pricing, but we're getting quoted more than twice what we expected. I'm really curious to know what others paid, ideally in the NY/NJ area. Thank you! [link] [comments] |
| New house with French drains, what do I do? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 07:07 AM PDT The gutter post made me think about my house (we should clean the gutter) and that we have a French drain. We've been in the house for a few months now but I have no idea how to take care of a French drain. I think google tells me there should be gravel over the drain? There's definitely not gravel, there's grass over the piping (at least I think it's the piping it's a slight indent in the ground.) Any advice? We don't have a basement and the drain is sloped gently down hill but I have no idea where it ends. [link] [comments] |
| Homeowners of Reddit, what failed, broke, or began to malfunction after purchasing your home? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 12:13 PM PDT My girlfriend and I are purchasing our first home, and I for one am excited to fix and tinker with things. What tools, abstract supplies (such as zip ties and electrical tape), and general knowledge, do I and other homeowners need to gather up, to ensure that we are prepared for the road ahead? This can include anything and everything, from plumbing and electrical repairs and mishaps all the way to yard care and exterior improvements and fixes. Your answers will be acknowledged and appreciated! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Oct 2020 05:44 PM PDT Hey all! I just wanted to post because it feels so good to fix something on your own. I just bought and moved into my second home. (Sold our starter) Anyway the house is 20 years old and has two natural gas fireplaces. Both worked fine during viewing and inspections. One week in the downstairs unit will no longer start up. So I did some research, and cleaned the two probes inside. That didn't fix it so I bought two new probes, a thermocouple and thermopile and swapped them out. Still not fixed, so I called a repairman, and over the phone they quoted me $1000 if it happens to be a bad gas valve. I said forget it and bought a new valve for $250 on Amazon. Swapped out the gas valve and its fixed!!! So all in I spent less than $300 in parts and avoided a $1000 repair bill. Saved myself over $600 and it feels so good! [link] [comments] |
| Mounting large TV, are 4 lags enough? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 06:22 PM PDT I'm trying to mount a rather large TV which is meant for an industrial setting. Because of this, the mount it comes with calls for being bolted to a concrete wall and is not spaced for a standard residential wall stud. I have 4 lag screws in 2 studs, is that enough? TV weighs 130 lbs Lag bolts are about 5mm shaft x 55mm long through 1/2 inch sheetrock into 2x4 studs. Mount is a static flat mount and does not move or tilt. I see other mounts only calling for 4 screws supporting much more weight, but I'm hoping some of you can put my mind at ease before I heft this thing up there. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Oct 2020 02:36 PM PDT So, we have a need for some new trim, and need paint for it. Looking just at Sherwin Williams, for example, I see these options:
So it seems that each type of paint gets to pick 2 words from the following set: {Latex, Acrylic, Alkyd, Enamel} however every recommendation for trim paint that I see refers to only 1 of those words. For example, a post might say "definitely get Alkyd" or "we used SW enamel." Argh! Which one do you mean? Will someone please just make it easy and tell me which one to get? We're planning to get "extra white" semi-gloss. I want it to go on easy, not be super prone to dripping, hide brush strokes decently well, be somewhat durable, be waterbased so I can clean the gear, and work for painting over a caulk like this. Cost isn't really an issue. [link] [comments] |
| Drywalling a low ceiling in a small room without a drywall jack? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 07:34 PM PDT I need to drywall a 6'9" ceiling in a 120sqft basement room. I've never done a full drywall job, but I've patched several ~10" access holes before. I'm 6' tall, am I crazy to think that I can manage this job without a drywall jack? Can I get by with just a friend's help? [link] [comments] |
| Would there be any reason to not connect ground wires in outlet boxes? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 07:57 PM PDT I recently bought a property in Alaska with an outbuilding that is used as a guest house. There is a power supply coming off the breaker panel in the main house. When I was walking the property prior to the sale, all of these outlet boxes were showing as "open ground". Now that I occupy the place, I'm starting to work through my project list, and I've come to this one. As I started taking off light switch and outlet covers, I noticed that in every case the ground wires were not connected. In fact, no attempt was made to connect them at all - the ground wire is still perfectly straight from after stripping the sheathing off. I shook my head at the shoddy workmanship and began one-by-one attaching the ground wires to the switch/outlet and to each other to continue to circuit. Now that I've done 3 or of them, I am starting to doubt myself... maybe there was a reason they did that? (besides laziness). Could there be any reason for not connecting ground wires? [link] [comments] |
| Alternatives to IKEA for ready-to-assemble (RTA) cabinets? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 05:16 PM PDT We've been planning a kitchen remodel and want new light grey shaker cabinets. We were planning on ordering Lheryttan light grey from IKEA but they are out of stock of some of the ones we need and are short on delivery trucks in our area so can't deliver to our place (Chicago). What is the next best alternative to IKEA in terms of RTA cabinetry? [link] [comments] |
| Basement bathroom rough-in - plumbing finishing layout Posted: 16 Oct 2020 08:06 PM PDT Hi, I would like to finish my basement, which already includes a 3 piece rough-in for the bathroom. I've attached a picture that i hope explains what i would like to do, and i am looking for feedback on whether it makes sense and will pass an inspection. Diagram is available from: https://imgur.com/a/ZEjEbe7 There are 4 pipes:
If my understanding is correct, pipe B is a wet vent used to vent all the bathroom fixtures and pipe A for the toilet should be tied into it under the cement as well as pipe C for the shower drain (although i think i read that because the distance is < 5 ft, venting is not required?). If my assumption is correct, than i would add a 2"x1.5"x1.5" sanitary tee to pipe B and connect a 1.5" that will lead to the sink and another that would go to the vent, pipe D via a 90 degree 1.5" long elbow. The sink sanitary tee would be 19" off the ground, one end connecting to a P-trap and the other to another 1.5" abs vent pipe that will connect to a 90 degree long elbow leading to another 1.5"x1.5"x1.5" sanitary tee connecting both 1.5" abs vent pipes to pipe D. I am wondering if i can get some feedback on whether what i would like to do makes sense and is up to code or if there are any improvement i can make - or if its just plain wrong. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Additional details:
Each fixture, as far as i can tell, has clearance that meets and/or exceeds the code minimum requirement. [link] [comments] |
| Can I run new wire for my doorbell? How? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 02:06 PM PDT I live in an old house (1900) that had a non-functioning doorbell when we bought it. Recently, I've been wanting to upgrade to a smart doorbell. I pulled the old doorbell off to see what was happening. About 6" of wire came out with the doorbell like it had been cut and put back. I think I found in the basement where the old wiring would have lead to. Is it possible for me to fish new wire back through? [link] [comments] |
| Major repairs and renovations starting but should I use a contractor? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 11:55 AM PDT Our house has needed major work on it since before we moved in over ten years ago. But we haven't had the funds to start doing anything until now. The biggest issue is the floors. All the floors upstairs need replaced. Three bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen, hall, and living room. All the sub flooring needs replaced. With the kitchen and bathroom, should I expect they'll need to take out the bathtub and shower in the bathrooms? And will they take out the counters in the kitchen? (I had already planned on replacing both toilets) And should I have someone who does floors come and do the floors, then have a cabinet guy for the cabinets, etc? Or should I have a contractor come out and do the whole thing? Last thing: I have two special needs kids, one low functioning. It would probably be better for them to do the work pieces at a time, with the bathrooms, kitchen and hall happening ASAP but their rooms coming last. Is piece by piece going to end up costing more or would that be the more appropriate way to go? [link] [comments] |
| Did my first drywall patch's, need some advice on how to continue. Posted: 16 Oct 2020 06:17 PM PDT I used the standard California patch that is shown all over youtube. I left an inch or so extra of paper and the patches fit in pretty snugly but not 100% as this was my first time and cuts where rough. After laying on the mud its clear the 1st one is very bumpy and rough. Can that be sanded down and reapplied or should I remove it, clean the wall and reapply? If so, what would be best for cleaning the wall? It's also not flat, which is what leads me to think it needs to be redone all together. On the 2nd smaller patch, I believe I can sand it down but I don't know how to tell if I'll need more mud after the sand. I happen to have a sander, would the unused paper shown in the second photo work and if not, could someone recommend which I would need for this sander. [link] [comments] |
| Help with cleaning mold/mildew from tub edge. Posted: 16 Oct 2020 08:10 AM PDT Hello. I was wondering if I could get some advice on how to best clean the black mold/mildew? from my bathtub. I believe the ledge was sealed with silicon caulk but I'm not 100% positive. I've tried grout cleaners for the white stuff around the tile and it works wonderfully but the issue is the black mold/mildew that's inside the silicon caulk. I took some pictures of what it looks like now but would like to know what's the best way to handle this? https://imgur.com/a/HaTot1J Edit: Thank you guys for the advise! I will try the recommended solutions and then I can get my hands dirty to redo the caulk. [link] [comments] |
| Is it okay to make minor patches in plaster walls with AP joint compound? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 06:43 AM PDT Need to patch cracks and some silver dollar size chip outs in a plaster wall. Is it okay to use all purpose joint compound or should I use something specific to plaster (like plaster)? [link] [comments] |
| How I fixed leaky old can lights Posted: 16 Oct 2020 09:01 AM PDT My upstairs has ordinary recessed can lights. I was up there and noticed a couple of issues. They had blown in cellulose insulation on top of them, which I think is no bueno if you have incandescents, but I had put in LEDs as soon as I moved in. The other was just the sheer amount of air leakage into the attic. With the lights on, you could see a glow from the cellulose in the attic. These cheap metal can lights have tons of slots and holes in them and are just terrible. With winter around the corner, I wanted to do something about it. The nicest thing would be to get the modern LED replacements. They gave these puck lights with spring loaded ears that just fill in the hole. But I'd need to rip out the cans from the attic and redo the wiring in the junction boxes. Some of them are really hard to get to since they're under air conditioner ducts or in the edges of the attic where there's not much clearance to the roof. So what I found is that they make LED inserts that are a single piece bulb and trim ring, with a little pigtail and screw connector to go into the existing socket. And I decided to take it a step further for air sealing. I put a strip of 3/8" weather-stripping foam around the perimeter of the lights, then did a bead of caulk on top of it. I installed them, ran a thin bead of caulk around the edges as well, and then wiped it smooth. They look really good and as far as I can tell they're pretty much airtight without having to touch any of the permanent wiring or go up into the attic. I'm pretty happy so I thought I'd share. I used Utilitech inserts from Lowe's which were about $10 per 3 pack. They have fancier ones but these were fine, 2700k dimmable LED [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Oct 2020 07:40 PM PDT I was looking around my crawl space the other day and noticed some sort of black grease/tar directly under where the toilet is in the washroom. Wtf do I do now? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Oct 2020 05:41 PM PDT So, I installed a security door, I chose a keypad deadbolt, however the door closes loose, the deadbolt will not close with the keypad, unless I apply pressure to keep the door closed tightly. I'm wondering what if anything I can do to get the door to close tighter .. I had thought about self closing hinges....but the door has welded on hinges that are not meant to be replaced . Any ideas? [link] [comments] |
| Reno Problem - Old House and Baseboards Posted: 16 Oct 2020 07:21 PM PDT I'm having a little problem with my contractor as they are insisting nothing can be done. I have an old house (100 years plus) and the baseboard was damaged while fixing the flooring. I assumed one long board would be used, but instead they used two to join them together. They stated the problem was that the wall behind has plaster behind it, which means that they would need two pieces of wood. I suggested that the wall be re-dry walled - in order to make a flat surface that would allow the baseboard to be flushed. They said not possible. I know its hard to tell from photos and not looking at the wall, but is there a way to get one baseboard put in? I want a second opinion, before they come back in on Monday. Location: Toronto, Canada [link] [comments] |
| Tips for cutting rock lath ceiling? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 07:20 PM PDT Starting to wind down this kitchen project and we've come to the ceiling lights. We're putting in a couple of recessed lights to supplement the pendant fixture we already have. I was going to go with circular ones, which would've been easy. Just grab the right hole saw, hope it lasts long enough to cut four holes in the ceiling, and there you go. But then I came across basically the same lights in a square model for less than a quarter of the price, and I couldn't say no. From what we learned while repairing some water damage to the walls behind the cabinets, this stuff is solid af, chews through blades, and doesn't always cut neatly. I know excessive vibration is an issue with traditional wood lath, as it could potentially break off the plaster keys and result in the whole thing coming down, but from what research I've been able to do, I'm unclear if that's as much of a worry with rock lath. We do have access to the attic above the kitchen, so my plan is to figure out where the joists are from above (stud finders are hit and miss with this stuff. You get an idea and then you find it with your drill after much probing), mark the squares where I want to cut so I know everything is lined up nicely and, well, square, then drill pilot holes in the corners before connecting them with some kind of cutting tool. The big question is a) am I completely off base here, and b) what would be the best tool? Between the slowly growing collection in my garage, a few well equipped friends, and a decently stocked library of things, we probably have access to most common tools, and are willing to buy blades and accessories as needed. I've got a plan for dust control (PPE, second person with a shop vac held near the cut, and a whole lot of plastic sheeting), and I was thinking of taping the edges of the cut to hopefully reduce damage and keep the number of flying chunks of cement to a minimum. Is there anything else I'm missing or haven't thought of yet? [link] [comments] |
| Caulking after painting the baseboards? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 07:11 PM PDT Hello all, Quick question. I'm painting our baseboards with SW emerald trim enamel and am not planning on painting the walls. The walls are currently all taped up. Can I caulk after I'm done painting my top coats? Or should the caulk really be covered with paint? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| How to re-caulk a frameless glass shower? Posted: 16 Oct 2020 02:07 PM PDT I have a Frameless Glass Shower that was installed about 4 years ago. Mildew has since appeared at the curb growing under the clear caulk. I've never caulked a glass shower so wanted to get some advice - had the following questions: 1.) The chrome clips that attach the glass to the curb - do those need to be removed before caulking? There are also plastic spacers embedded in the caulk assume these can be reused/stay in place. 2.) Do i apply caulk to both sides of the glass or only the inside? 3.) Should i tape the glass before caulking or can i clean excess off glass easily with a wet rag after applying? Thank You! [link] [comments] |
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