Home Improvement: Thank you Lowe’s and Home Depot! |
- Thank you Lowe’s and Home Depot!
- It finally happened!! Valuables stash found!
- If im building a 20ft long deck and have 12footers for my ledger and outer band, should I cut one exactly 12 and another 8 foot and then the same thing for the outer band but flip them so they are staggared?
- First big project! ( DIY cabinets and shelves)
- I’m in need of a 50ft tower in order to get wireless broadband internet at my house. What is going to be my best option?
- Any tile experts can help identify please
- Insulate and Seal Agaist Shiplap Siding From Inside
- Is there asbestos in my wallboard?
- When multiple outlets on the same wall don't work, is that a sign of a major electrical issue?
- Gap between drywall & floor; fill with backer rod?
- Ace Hardware Issues?
- Installing a dishwasher—need a new drain hose?
- Just bought my first home. Never had a garage before and I’m wondering what this device is.
- Plumbing access panel on garage ceiling with habitable area above
- How do you know you're getting a fair price on emergency home repairs?
- Amazing thingdthings youthings you can do with an $80 drywall hoist
- Rotten fruit smell in garage
- Thinking of lining our clay sewer line...
- What can I do about a Wall rotting from water damage?
- Solar Panels?
- How do I get this epoxy paint off my driveway bricks?
- What to do the first week in your first home?
- Bathroom Renovation Question
- Uncovered Brick Fireplace but Need Ideas
- Hardwire plug in fixture
| Thank you Lowe’s and Home Depot! Posted: 18 Jul 2020 07:02 PM PDT This is a thank you for helping me find my way. This is directed at Lowe's and Home Depot. Since the pandemic begin I've been working on improving my home here in Alaska. But without fail every single time I've gone into either Lowe's or Home Depot I've had nothing but horrible luck with the most clueless of sales people. And that's if they are even able to be found. I understand there is an app, but that's not going to help me if I have no knowledge of the product I am trying to source. The thank you comes because due to this I have rediscovered local mom and pop shops that really really want to go the extra mile. I am so happy to be spending my money here in comparison. Thanks again Home Depot and Lowe's. You truly are the epitome of corporate mendacity. I will drive that extra mile every single time. [link] [comments] |
| It finally happened!! Valuables stash found! Posted: 18 Jul 2020 10:04 AM PDT We bought our home 3.5 years ago from the original owners. House was built in 1976. I knew it was bound to happen that we find a valuable stash or safe somewhere. Well, it finally happened! We are getting a new hot water heater Monday so my husband was demoing the enclosure for the old one. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2020 04:49 AM PDT |
| First big project! ( DIY cabinets and shelves) Posted: 18 Jul 2020 07:47 PM PDT Since I have moved into this house, I have wanted cabinets and shelves by the TV. Without something like that, I felt like the entire space was completely unusable. So without further wait, here is the link to what I did. And also I got a cost breakdown and some lessons learned. All items bought at Home Depot on a military discount. 2x4- 2 pieces at 3.28 per 1x2x8 pineboard- 5 pieces at 5.64 per 1x2x6 pineboard- 1 piece at 3.98 Casing- 2 pieces at 4.84 per 2x 4 sheet fiberboard- 10 pieces at 9.48 per 5mm underpayment- 9 pieces at 7.49 per Clamp- 1 piece at 13.94 Screws- 1 box at 8.28 Painters tape 1- 6.82 Painters tape 2- 5.10 Wood Glue- 5.84 Hooks (for cables)- 4.98 Behr Ultra White paint 1 gal- 18.79 1x2x8 common board- 3 pieces at 6.24 per 1x10x8 common board- 1 piece at 12.52 Hinges- 4 pieces at 9.43 per Shims- 1.33 Door knobs- 4 pieces at 2.77 per Wood Filler- 9.98 Paint Roller 3 pk- 10.52 Hole Saw (For hinges) 9.42 Hole Saw adapter- 19.33 Moulding (mini) - 16 pieces at 1.89 per The moulding at the base was something I already had, so free. Total: 389.26 Some lessons learned.
Favorite feature of my new setup: The little spot on the left at the floor, that is where the robovacuum sleeps. I think I cut it way to close size wise, but it works. Total time to complete the project: Roughly 30 hours over the course of a week. I got a brand new table saw so it was also getting adjusted to that. Side note: if anyone has any suggestions on improvements please let me know! I do want to refine the tops of the shelves since it isn't perfect and the doors/hinge situation, but for now I am really happy with how it turned out. Thank you guys for looking and sorry for the wall of text and lack of pictures. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2020 06:51 PM PDT We bought the house two years ago. Had we known prior to buying the house that our only internet option was satellite, we never would've put an offer in. But here we are. I did call the local internet provider before putting the offer in and they assured me they serviced the area. When we had a move in date I called for installation and they said they've tried installing at this address before and couldn't get a signal. So we went with satellite internet for two very long years. My coworker had the same issue with internet and he actually told me you can get a bucket test done to find out how tall of a tower you would need. So we had this done recently. We can do either a 40ft tower in the back or 65ft in the front. For cost reasons, the back is where we are going. So anyway, the installer mentioned we can do a telephone pole. Obviously bury and cement it. But the cost of delivering and then the hassle of lifting this pole into the hole and holding it while it's being cemented sounds like a bitch. But towers can be pretty pricey. Any ideas? [link] [comments] |
| Any tile experts can help identify please Posted: 18 Jul 2020 08:23 PM PDT tiles in our kitchen floor One tile in our kitchen floor seems to have a crack in it and in the grout. It seems to be ceremic I think but I'm not an expert. Measures about 12 in by 12 in. Apartment was build in the 1970s. Not sure when these tiles where put in though. There is water damage due to the fridge constantly leaking in that spot which is I'm assuming what's causing the crack. How likely is this tile to contain asbestos? And is it potentially releasing any ad we walk on it ? [link] [comments] |
| Insulate and Seal Agaist Shiplap Siding From Inside Posted: 18 Jul 2020 06:31 PM PDT Looking at buying a house built in 1895. We are currently costing everything to see if it makes sense to take this on. The house is currently gutted down to the studs. The shiplap siding is nailed right on to the studs. There is lathe and plaster against the siding but much of it is cracked and there are gaps to the outside. I'm trying to figure out how to seal and insulate the walls. This is a designated heritage house so the siding can't really be removed to sheath and wrap the outside so everything must be done from the inside. The exterior studs are 2x4 which I'll fur out to 2x6 using 2x2. (Maybe a Mooney wall?) That will give me 5.5" or 6" cavity. Any great ideas on how to do this? I've been looking at icycene spray insulation which would act as a moisture barrier but it must be subbed out and would likely blow our budget. Any info I've found doesn't address the fact that I need to keep the current siding intact. I'm sure someone has come across this before. I'm in Manitoba, Canada so I really want to have max R value as well as keep moisture, critters, and wild winds out. [link] [comments] |
| Is there asbestos in my wallboard? Posted: 18 Jul 2020 09:23 PM PDT Hey all, Looking to see if someone has more info here than I've been able to find online about asbestos in drywall. I live in the pacific northwest and my house was built in the 1920s. Its had major renovations done on it over the years by previous owners, including a dormer addition to the attic and an addition off the back. When we bought the place a few years ago, we were told in the disclosure that the entire interior was taken down to the studs in the early 90s (around when the dormer was added, I think). Fast forward to 2020. My wife and I decided we wanted to try renovating the main level bathroom ourselves. We tore up some horrible vinyl flooring installed in the 90s and started ripping everything back to the studs again to get rid a bunch of wavy walls and bad patch jobs. As I started ripping the walls off, I found some sections of wall that had drywall over plaster and lath. The plaster was painted, and I assume that has lead based paint I should probably care more about than I do. But that's not the focus of this post. Today, I started ripping off the tub surround. It looked like formica sheets and behind it was just normal drywall. On the valve side, it looked like pretty normal drywall. There's a mixture of new and what looks like the original studs in there. Then I moved to the back wall and it wasn't a hollow wall any more. The wallboard was quite a bit tougher, and my drywall knife wouldn't easily go through it. Even a fresh razor blade has trouble. I started going at it with a hammer and pry bar, and the board is brown (kinda like old plaster, but without keys and not heavy) with a paper coating on the front and back. There was lath behind it. I pulled a chunk off and held it up to the light, and I saw fine, white hairline fibers coming off of the edge of it. I freaked out, covered it in duct tape to stop any dust from coming off it and ordered an asbestos test kit. Frantic searching online gives all kinds of mixed messages about how big of a deal this is, the likelihood that wallboard would even contain asbestos. Some folks say a single exposure for a DIY project isn't a big deal. Others seem to make it out like certain death.
Tried to take a photo but I couldn't get the fibers in focus. Some searching online found me this photo - which is pretty similar to what i'm seeing https://imgur.com/a/48WRcCf [link] [comments] |
| When multiple outlets on the same wall don't work, is that a sign of a major electrical issue? Posted: 18 Jul 2020 05:34 PM PDT Assuming the breaker box appears to be all and well, if multiple outlets on the same wall or in the same room don't work, could that be a sign of major wiring or electrical issues? Is there an easy way to confirm it's a larger wiring issue in the wall / throughout the house, rather than just a series of badly wired outlets individually? How much of a fire hazard risk is improper wiring throughout the wall? [link] [comments] |
| Gap between drywall & floor; fill with backer rod? Posted: 18 Jul 2020 01:43 PM PDT Hi guys, Last winter I noticed cold air coming from under the baseboards in my daughter's room, that has hardwood floors. We are in Calgary, AB Canada. So yesterday I popped off the baseboards and pushed in some backer rod into the gap between the drywall & subfloor. Last night I was thinking to myself if that was a good idea or not. I'm concerned if the backer rod gets damp from the cold air, then stays that way, it's not good. I also bought some Big Stretch caulk, thinking maybe I'd caulk the baseboards to the floor. I'd like to eliminate the draft of course and the basement is all finished. I appreciate any comments or advice please; if using that backer rod is a good idea. Thank you! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2020 03:03 PM PDT I'm a first time home owner so I'm new to the world of DIY home improvement. I've just had an adventure trying to upgrade the showerhead in my master bath. I've been working on this project for 20 min and every component I purchased that is Ace Hardware branded has now broken. Is this an anomaly or should I stay away from that brand in general? I like my local Ace, but this has been a frustrating experience. Any thoughts? [link] [comments] |
| Installing a dishwasher—need a new drain hose? Posted: 18 Jul 2020 09:41 PM PDT We are trying to install our new Bosch (model #SHXM4AY55N) and having some issues. The first picture linked is a mystery tube. What is this for? The other end is just open and there's no instructions for what to do with it. Second and third pictures show our major issue. It appears the disposal tube that was going from our disposal to the original dishwasher is much too large. We need a new tube, correct? What do we need to look for? Is this the correct kind of tube? [link] [comments] |
| Just bought my first home. Never had a garage before and I’m wondering what this device is. Posted: 18 Jul 2020 10:46 AM PDT |
| Plumbing access panel on garage ceiling with habitable area above Posted: 18 Jul 2020 06:40 PM PDT So, I recently had a small disaster in my garage. Due to a large clog in the main waste line, whenever the toilets in the upstairs were flushed, it forced water back into the toilet flange and leaked out, caving in the ceiling of my garage in the lower level. The garage sits directly below the master bedroom and master bathroom. The clog was cleared and all appears to be well, for now. In accordance with fire code, I'm told the drywall in the garage ceiling will need to be replaced, since there is a habitable structure above. My question is, since the toilet flange is directly above and I might need future access to replace it (it's cast iron, since the house was built in '65), would it be acceptable within the fire code to put a plumbing access panel into the roof of the garage? [link] [comments] |
| How do you know you're getting a fair price on emergency home repairs? Posted: 18 Jul 2020 06:32 PM PDT Let's say you have an emergency house problem that you don't know how to fix. Water leaking uncontrollably from a pipe underground, hail has damaged the roof enough that water is falling from the ceiling, etc. I've heard the usual suggestion is to call up three separate contractors/handymen to get separate quotes to gauge a fair price. However, in cases like emergencies above, an urgent fix on that very day may be necessary, oftentimes with the first person you call. How do you know that you're getting a fair price if you have no time to compare and no knowledge of the market value of their services? (I know you can look up "XXX cost," but the ranges they give can be pretty wide. For example, "Replacing the entire [water] main line costs anywhere from about $1,500-$5,000, depending on the size of the pipe, the type of pipe and local labor costs. In most cases, the cost falls closer to $2,000-$3,000." But, even then, your local market and the nuances of the job can be a huge factor on the variation of the price.) The context of this is that I had a busted pipe in my front yard this morning. Water wasn't gushing, but there was a steady uncontrollable leak from underground for hours. I was able to get my city's water utility guy to look at it (they said it was on my property and wasn't their responsibility to fix), and also turn off the main water line. But it being a Saturday, most contractors/handymen (especially reputable ones I researched) don't take service calls on weekends or are already booked for the day, so no water for two days is tough. Anyway, the point of the thread is, "How do I know I'm getting a fair price?" [link] [comments] |
| Amazing thingdthings youthings you can do with an $80 drywall hoist Posted: 18 Jul 2020 04:43 PM PDT https://i.imgur.com/CJPF1HV.jpg I'm building a garage and we were just killing ourselves getting the 120lb joists up. Not anymore, this sucker makes it a one man job. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2020 03:35 AM PDT Just moved into a new house. The garage has had a distinct rotten fruit odor since day 1. Stains on the concrete do not match the smell or intensity. As soon as the man door is opened the rotten fruit smell is overwhelming. Cigarette smoking inside the garage and open overhead door for hours on end do not affect or lower the smell. [link] [comments] |
| Thinking of lining our clay sewer line... Posted: 18 Jul 2020 02:10 PM PDT Our house is 50 years old and has a clay sewer line from the house to the street. In the last few years more and more houses in our neighborhood are getting their front yards dug up for full replacement after complete failure. As a planner, this stresses me out. My next-door neighbor got lucky and was able to line hers instead of replacing and it was like 1/4 the cost. Could we just go ahead and have ours lined BEFORE it completely fails? I'd rather spend $2k now and have it done at a convenient time rather than wait until my basement fills with sewage and have to drop $8k. We've had roots cleaned out of ours 2 times since we bought in 5 years ago (and had it scoped before we purchased). We've also never had any plumbing/draining issues, so it should be in decent shape. Thanks in advance for your thoughts! [link] [comments] |
| What can I do about a Wall rotting from water damage? Posted: 18 Jul 2020 05:33 PM PDT I just purchased a two year old house. Got it inspected and everything was apparently fine. We noticed a little water damage on our basement ceiling. Thought it had something to do with the dishwasher and then one day we noticed our bathroom sink was leaking. I looked under our cabinet and underneath the whole trim and wall is very yellow and peeling. Like it's been damaged for a while for sure and it's a good 4 feet of damage. Was just wondering what to do besides get the leak fixed? Can it be mold even tho the house is only two years? Is it fixable? Should I try and make a stink with the old owners? Can I just remove the trim and paint over it with some sort of mold paint? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2020 06:57 PM PDT |
| How do I get this epoxy paint off my driveway bricks? Posted: 18 Jul 2020 04:34 PM PDT We just epoxied our garage floor, and everything went fine, except at the end when we were cleaning, a little bit of epoxy paint fell on the driveway bricks and wife is super pissed! How do we remove the epoxy and clean this? [link] [comments] |
| What to do the first week in your first home? Posted: 18 Jul 2020 10:19 PM PDT My fiancée and I are in the process of closing on our first home. We've timed it out so that we'll be staying there for the first time the night of our wedding (didn't think we could do it, but it's happening!). What are your best tips for the first week in a home (especially a FIRST home)? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2020 06:30 PM PDT Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but me and my partner are trying to figure out what to do with our master bathroom. Background information: the bathroom in the master was not done with permits, and it was not done well. The intention was always to redo it, but a thought popped up that it may be a good idea to turn it into closet space. It would be easier/cheaper to do, would leave more space to the room itself, and create much needed storage space. The intention has always been to sell this house in a few years, so the only thing I'm worried about is is having a two bedroom with only 1 bathroom, though that is what it is listed as. I feel like I personally wouldn't mind a two bed, one bath. Would properly adding an additional bathroom be better than adding a closet? [link] [comments] |
| Uncovered Brick Fireplace but Need Ideas Posted: 18 Jul 2020 10:49 AM PDT We found brick under drywall around our fireplace but cannot figure out what to do to cover the cinder block. Original brick so we would like to keep the brick on the front if possible. We have considered paneling on the sides and shelves but aren't sure how we would design the corners. We need ideas. Help! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Jul 2020 10:00 PM PDT Looks like according to code it's not okay because of the cord suspending the weight but it's a fixture the would use that cord to suspend already but be plugged in. Any problems just splicing it and connecting at junction? [link] [comments] |
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