Home Improvement: Gophers have turned my front yard into an apocalyptic moonscape |
- Gophers have turned my front yard into an apocalyptic moonscape
- Anyone still do carpet?
- Giant hole in sink after glass lotion bottle lightly hits it. What do I do?
- Floor cleaning 'pro' damaged cabinetd and chipped floor
- Buying an older house that has a lot of 2-prong ungrounded outlets. Under what circumstance should I have outlets properly grounded vs a GFCI? Is it fine to install a GFCI in every ungrounded outlet?
- Running Ethernet through the House- Advice?
- Full Gut Covid Kitchen Remodel on the Cheap
- Buying my first kitchen counter: is quartz a good choice?
- Replacing fireplace mantel
- I've often heard that you can not have more than 2 layers of shingles on a roof due to it being too much weight. I am getting quotes for a new roof and every company is saying they will lay 1/2" plywood over the existing 1/4" deck. Isn't that a lot more weight?
- Landlord installed efficiency LED lights in apartment and it's harsh lighting
- Can I lay plywood down (or some other solution) so we can utilize this rock-bed crawlspace?
- Crack on the wall in our "new" house
- Would you replace this siding for the purpose of selling or give an allowance for the buyer to replace themselves?
- Painting over oak cabinets- do or don’t?
- Water dripping in from top of chimney after snow/sleet storm. Chicago suburbs. Normal?
- Brown sludge in water softener?
- My wife made a super in-depth punch list for our GC...
- Took the dark cabinet doors off the cabinetry above the bar, now what?
- Help! My Pull-Up Bar Broke my Door Frame!
- Have you ever installed a steam shower in your bathroom?
- How do I fix this? The screw will not hold in place.
- My house has a porch off the back with a roof. Can I fix the foundation without tearing the whole thing down?
- Suggestions for no overhead light fixtures? Switches are tied into the top outlet.
- Water damage. Who to call?
| Gophers have turned my front yard into an apocalyptic moonscape Posted: 30 Dec 2020 09:19 AM PST My neighborhood belongs to the gophers (edit: Pocket Gophers, in SoCAL). Look around any of the houses on my block and you will see countless gopher holes and mounds. I have caught many gophers, but unless my neighbors do the same, they will never stop. None of my neighbors are putting up traps or any other sort of gopher deterrent, so I feel like I'm fighting a battle of attrition. I'm considering throwing in the towel on trapping, and pursuing the nuclear option instead. I had a local landscaping company come by and give me an estimate to:
This is the nuclear option, but I'm sick of dealing with gophers making my front yard look like white trash country (I'm the only one allowed to make me look like white trash). I've seen this company's fake lawn around town on other properties. It looks pretty good. Definitely better than my wasteland of a front yard. Has anybody else done the same or similar? Any red flags on going the multi-tier fake lawn route? It's definitely not cheap. Am I just throwing a coat of paint over rotting wood? Edit: OK, ya'll have convinced me to abandon my idea of fake grass. I'm throwing my hat back in the ring. We'll start with biological warfare. I will be putting my own dog's shit in any fresh gopher hole I find. The missus will be delighted. If that doesn't work, I think I'll try the coyote pee next. Thanks very much, everyone, for the suggestions! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 04:38 PM PST I know this will make alot of people cringe, but I am considering wall to wall carpet on the upstairs and stairs. We bought this home and it has needed work inside and out. We are doing everything cash, dont want to take out debt so we have taken years to complete the remodel. We recently removed tile floors from downstairs and installed high quality engineered hardwood. We like carpet in the bedrooms, but considered doing the same wood all upstairs and the stairwell which is currently carpeted. However, this would be a huge expense. A cheaper option would be to just carpet everything. Is that crazy? Is carpet really that hated? We don't plan on selling anytime soon, but you never know what the future holds so I don't like to use the term "forever home". [link] [comments] |
| Giant hole in sink after glass lotion bottle lightly hits it. What do I do? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 10:03 AM PST Here are some pictures. I was trying to get lotion out of the bottle, it slipped from my hand and lightly hit the sink. The sink, which was installed maybe 18 years ago, pretty much just collapsed. I don't feel any metal and it seems to me (what do I know?) that it's nothing but porcelain. What are my options here? I'm handy and can most certainly install another sink, but before having to aggravate myself, I want to know what are my options as I've never had this happen to me before. [link] [comments] |
| Floor cleaning 'pro' damaged cabinetd and chipped floor Posted: 30 Dec 2020 02:20 PM PST What should we do if a professional floor cleaner (a franchise) has damaged our kitchen cabinets and kickboards (warped, lifted and bumpy) and chip our slate floor? I asked them to come back to have a look but they are reluctant... and have changed from very helpful and lots of communication (pre job) to none at all. It IS of course between Christmas and New Year so that could be why. He did agree to do the job during this period though. Any previous experience or advice? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 07:37 PM PST First time homeowner here, please excuse my ignorance! I'm not entirely sure how important a grounded outlet is to rooms without water access. I know basement, kitchen, bathroom, etc. should all be grounded. My concerns are 1) obviously safety- what I should or shouldn't plug into an ungrounded outlet, and 2) being able to plug in 3-prong devices like laptop chargers and power strips. It looks like self-installing a GFCI is actually quite simple, and I could save literally hundreds of dollars learning that myself. Is it fine to eventually convert all ungrounded outlets in the home to a GFCI...? I want to be able to use surge protectors for the TV and a UPS for my desktop PC, so I need a 3 prong outlet. I've read that a UPS can trip a GFCI frequently, so my current plan is to have all outlets in the office bedroom properly grounded. However, I also want to be able to plug in laptop chargers and power strips basically anywhere I want... So I can just install GFCIs as needed, right? I assume I shouldn't just slap a 3 prong in an outlet that is not actually grounded? TL;DR
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| Running Ethernet through the House- Advice? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 10:25 AM PST Hello! I am looking for advice from anyone who has run ethernet cables through their house before. We want to run ethernet to each room of the house and route it all to a central location in the basement near our server. I know it will involve cutting holes in the drywall, holes in the support beams in the basement, etc... I will take any tips! Thank you for your time. [link] [comments] |
| Full Gut Covid Kitchen Remodel on the Cheap Posted: 29 Dec 2020 06:32 PM PST Last April my wife and I decided to remodel our kitchen. It took about 6 months to complete the full gut. We did everything ourselves except for help hanging the drywall (just a PITA without friends). The cost was around $12,000. The main goal was functionality and storage. Hence the excess of upper cabinets. After not having enough storage, I basically packed the kitchen with cabinets to get rid of the stress of things not having a place. We went the IKEA route for the kitchen cabinets and counter spending just over $7k. We could have cut the costs a lot more, but I wanted under counter lighting and more drawers than just open doors. No regrets at all. The flooring was $600 for LVP. The fridge was $300 the stove $400 and the dishwasher was also $400. The sink was $200 at HD, and the French door was $200. All of the wood, lighting, pipes, etc. made up the rest. All that is left is the backsplash. Some of the things that we did include: Put in a new 6' French Door which will be our main entrance, gutted the interior down to the studs, redid the galvanized plumbing for PVC and redid all of the plumbing in the house with Pex. Redid all of the electric using 12 gauge wire for everything except the lights (7 Clean lines). Added a forced air vent as the room was cold. Put in new flooring after releveling. Furred out the walls and put in new drywall along with fresh insulation. Scraped the popcorn ceiling and added a ton of low profile LED recessed lights. New door, new window, fresh paint, and trim. Bought all appliances scratch and dent (new) except for the fridge, which we got off craigslist used. All of the cabinets/counters were from Ikea. We splurged on undercounter lighting, but otherwise everything was on a super tight budget. Edit: This post was removed by a/the moderators as the above content was not specific enough as to the product details (brands/prices/purchase locations), overall budget. The official quoted cost of all of the cabinets from IKEA was $5032.85, but while at the store I bought a ton of extra inserts for the cabinets, shoe organizer, jacket hooks, as well as the door handles which were not in the original quote. The cabinets are called Sektion and the style of door fronts are Haggeby (the cheapest) All Doors are soft close using the Utrustra Hinges. The counters are Ekbacken in the Ash color and all three totaled just over $300. All of the items were purchased in the store as there were serious online ordering issues that I wanted to avoid. This also meant that I got to roll the dice on every 4 hour IKEA trip to Pittsburgh and my hate for IKEA customer service soared. So total for the cabinets and all the bells and whistles was $7,000 if you have more specific questions ask away, but to include itemized information seems superfluous. The lights are ensenior recessed lights 6" and ran $110 on amazon. I also purchased a 6.25 hole saw for the install for $25 and a flexible 54" bit for the install. The flooring is made by Build Direct and cost $569.26 ( Vesdura Vinyl Planks - 5.5mm SPC Click Lock). Just wanted cheap stuff. Mounted it under the cabinets and that is not how you are supposed to do it, but we shall see how that situation goes. The Drywall, 90 minute mix, studs were all purchased locally for standard costs. In total I estimate that I paid $500. The insulation is R-13 fiberglass, was a little over $200 and was purchased from a local lumber yard that was having a clearance sale. The stove is a samsung and was purchased at a scratch and dent place for $400 as was the OTR microwave for $200. It was returned and I did not notice any issues with it other than a small dent in the rear. The guy told me I could return if there was an issue. No issues so far even with it being a Samsung which I hear can have issues. The dishwasher is a kitchenaid. I paid $400 but it is worth $1200 new. Ultra quiet 39 decibels and also had a dent in the rear. The reason the refrigerator was so cheap is that it is 10 years old. It is a Kenmore 36" refrigerator that a guy sold as his GF moved in and had a better refrigerator. I hooked up the auto-ice maker when I replumbed the house and the thing works fine. Our old refrigerator was nice, but only a 30" and now this one fits everything. I sold our old fridge for $250 on Craigslist. The Door to the basement is your standard home depot door coming in at $80 for a hollow core. The cat door makes it so that we can leave the basement door shut and pass with ease. The paint is Behr Premium stuff from HD. I just picked out a greyish blue and dropped $200 for it and the Kilz primer. If you want to know the exact color I can let you know. I owned or borrowed all of the equipment used to construct the house. The French door that was $200 was from HD and made by Jeld-Wen. It was a scratch and dent as there was a tiny dent in one door. Usually it would cost $500. The window was $250 sold by Jeld-Wen. I had it custom made so that I did not have to reframe the window. Took 6 weeks due to the pandemic, but I was in no rush. I bought a 250' spool of 12-2 and a 250' of 14-2 to wire the house which cost $200 as well as the additional gang boxes and I had a ton of wire nuts lying around from previous remodels. The other circuit breakers, etc. ran another $100. The pex and 1.5" PVC was around $1,200 for the whole house. All fitting added up quick, and I almost exclusively bought brass. I purchased from HD. All of the trim in the house was done with an air compressor and 18 gauge brad nailer. I did the rest of my house in 1x4 so I just did this to match with common pine. Cost was around $200 as the place that I purchased from sells 1X4 cheap. The exterior stairs were made with pressure treated wood and including the hardware ran $200. If anything is not specific enough ask away and I will clarify. I kept every single receipt so I can give exact costs. [link] [comments] |
| Buying my first kitchen counter: is quartz a good choice? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 10:21 AM PST All my life I've had a kitchen with granite counters, so I'm used to taking metal baking trays straight out of the oven and putting them down directly on the counter. In close to 30 years of that there isn't a single permanent mark on any of the counters (as far as I can tell). I also slice onions directly on the counter. I've never had the surface sealed. The colour of the granite is something you'd find in an image search of "rosa limbara" with specs of white, black, dark red and grey - so maybe it's hard to tell where the surface is stained or damaged because it's such an intrinisically "busy" colour. We're now choosing a counter for a new kitchen. The cupboards/cabinets are dark wood (similar to walnut) and the walls are painted white. Cupboard handles are brushed/aged bronze and the appliances are stainless steel. The floor tiles are somewhere between dark yellow and light brown. We really, really like the look of very light-coloured (white or off-white) counters, and after touring the local suppliers have almost settled on a white quartz with gold veins, called "nebulous gold" (by Compac). The intention is to have both the countertops as well as the backsplash made of this material (all the way up to the top cupboard). Am I making the right choice? The material is very expensive (to put it in context, the kitchen cupboards plus fridge/freezer, cooker, hob, sink and cooker hood cost €5500, and the quote for just the counters + backsplash is another €4000... almost as much as the whole kitchen!). I'm mostly concerned about heat resistance. Can I put trays directly from the oven straight onto the quartz? The internet is divided on whether this is possible. If not it's a bummer to have to look for a trivet or mat every time I'm handling a hot dish. Granite is cheaper and more heat-resistant, but there are no almost-white colours available, just dark ones. This kitchen is already quite crowded and dark due to the walnut wood - the white counters would add some much-needed light and spaciousness. I just want to hear some other people's thoughts who have actual real-world experience with quartz before I take the plunge. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 03:56 PM PST When we moved into our house, the fireplace had an old, decorative surround/mantel. We decided we would replace it with tile around the fireplace and a 6' non-combustible wood-look mantel on top. When we removed the former mantel, the sides and top had large gaps with mortar caked on to the top part of it. Photos: https://imgur.com/a/JRe4gia We would like to figure out the best way to prepare the surrounding area to be tiled, and to allow for the mantel to be installed flush against the surface. We would appreciate any ideas for the best ways to go about this - do we need to chisel down the mortar? Should we fill in the gaps with something instead? Anything else we should consider? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:47 PM PST Existing roof was 1/4" deck + 2 layers of shingles that need to be removed. New roof will be 1/4" original deck + new 1/2" deck + shingles. If 2 layers of shingles is too heavy, how is it that they can add a whole other deck on top, and then allow 2 layers of shingles on that. Is the 2 layers of shingles rule just for the original 1/4" deck? Each company does not talk about removing the original deck (got 4 quotes), only placing a new 1/2" on top of it. [link] [comments] |
| Landlord installed efficiency LED lights in apartment and it's harsh lighting Posted: 30 Dec 2020 11:43 AM PST I'm not looking to change the lights installed. The center of each apartment room now has one of these lights in it to the ceiling. They're complexly wired in now and probably expensive to replace with a lower wattage version. They're intended to last a long time. What I'm thinking about is pinning some sort of tapestry, filter, or additional covering over the light to create a softer lighting effect. Cause.. my skin goes white on Zoom calls. If you have any ideas I'm open to it. Also I suppose maybe there's a home decor sub this could be posted in? [link] [comments] |
| Can I lay plywood down (or some other solution) so we can utilize this rock-bed crawlspace? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 09:06 PM PST This is our crawlspace... Background: We are in the twin cities area of Minnesota. Navigating this space with the rocks is not the most fun. Our outside hose shutoff is down here, just on the other side of that horizontal beam. I put on shoes and gloves so I don't tear my hands up and sort of "monkey-walk" my way around underneath. We have a 3 story-split level home (half-level up and down from the main level). This crawl space runs underneath the kitchen and part of the main entrance. As you can see in the first picture, we have a small concrete landing before the rock. It is about 3-4ft wide and 6-7ft long from the door. Problem: We would really love to move our stored items out of that entry-space and be able to have a surface in that large crawl space area that we can not only place things but also more easily sit, kneel, move around on. Are there any solutions to this? Our only thought right now is to place plywood down and use brackets to link them together then place some sort of rubber mat over it. But I'm sure there are more intelligent ways to handle this situation (or maybe we shouldn't be covering the rock-bed with items at all)? We also don't need to occupy the entire crawlspace, but there is a lot of room there that we'd like to utilize if we can. Any thoughts on how we can make this space more easily useable would be very appreciated! [link] [comments] |
| Crack on the wall in our "new" house Posted: 30 Dec 2020 12:12 PM PST https://imgur.com/gallery/hUA3BvC This is crack above the window we recently noticed in our new house. This is on the second floor. House is 20 years old ... Is it something to worry about and how to get it checked out. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 08:39 PM PST Hello everyone. As the title says I'm curious what the opinion of strangers is on whether or not I should replace the siding on my house prior to selling, or leave an allowance for potential buyers to replace. Back in August a nasty storm ripped through Iowa and caused a ton of damage, including to my home. Since the siding wasn't covered under insurance, we weren't able to get it replaced. For reference, I live in Iowa and we just had a really nasty storm come through this past week as well. The issue is we're wanting to put our house on the market 2 weeks from now mainly because I'll be starting a new position next Monday which is across town, so we're wanting to sell as fast as possible. Considering this is my first home, I've never gone through the process of putting in an allowance for projects on homes when selling. Also considering the storm, there aren't any contractors putting on siding or available in the next two weeks. Getting the material isn't the problem, it's putting it on in time. I have experience in putting on siding myself, and will have a couple of hands from family if needed, however trying to justify jamming in a 1300 square foot house to side in 2 weekends (everyone is busy during the week), is a lot to ask. Essentially what I'm asking is which sounds like the better plan, putting on the siding myself and jamming it in in two weeks, or leaving an allowance for the buyer. I'm just worried we wouldn't be able to sell for near where we want simply because the siding looks horrible, on the other hand I'm worried I'd cram the schedules of myself and my family and suffer through putting siding on in the winter only to not gain much on the sale. If anyone has experience in either scenario please share! Pictures of damage from the storm. Any advice would he greatly appreciated! [link] [comments] |
| Painting over oak cabinets- do or don’t? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 07:30 AM PST I'm old enough to be from an era where oak was king, and anyone who painted or carpeted over wood was reviled. That said, I hate my bathroom and I really want to paint the walls, the trim, and the oak vanity. Any tips on how to do the vanity painting well? Are there special paint types to use? Certain preparations to make first? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments] |
| Water dripping in from top of chimney after snow/sleet storm. Chicago suburbs. Normal? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 11:58 AM PST |
| Brown sludge in water softener? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 11:54 AM PST I let my water softener salt get pretty low, and when I went to check it I found this brown "sludge " in the tank. It was actually somewhat solid as I fished it out for a closer look. I've read that this can be iron bacteria? Resin? Would someone be able to confirm? In the meantime, I shut the softener down and bypassed it. My plan is to remove the rest of this stuff and sanitize per the instructions. Thoughts? [link] [comments] |
| My wife made a super in-depth punch list for our GC... Posted: 30 Dec 2020 06:40 AM PST Thought I'd share it with y'all! Now - our issue is unique and we're doing this to make sure everything gets formally documented - but, none the less.. it looks sweet. Thought I'd share! (We don't believe we're in punch list.. but our GC insists... soo) Link to my Google Drive showing all of the photos.. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ls05v3KFtDk9RRfaLNwsNjVrZmkGDx1d?usp=sharing Alas - our spreadsheet...! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f9FowLrY9u2aLSEFeMRxGFWcjl5tRLc6/view?usp=sharing He sent us an email yesterday that I thought Id also share.. (We sent the first email on 12/23, he responded on 12/28.. and then sent this yesterday. We were just finishing our efforts.) .. .. .. "" It has now been six days since your request that I not return to the job. This request came with zero notice and without cause. To date there has been no cause given and no remediation requested. This continued delay has caused undue harm to me and my business. Please let this email serve as 24 hour notice of your breach of contract. You have made several promises to pay that have not been fulfilled. It was not until December 23 at 10:08 pm that you requested I not return to site and that you would not be fulfilling the multiple promises to pay. The primary reason for this 24 hour notice is one last effort to come to terms and complete any outstanding work. As I have stated before it is my foremost desire to give you the product you desire. I am willing and able but you have currently made it impossible. Thank you for your understanding in this matter, and I hope that we can come together and complete this project. "" .. .. .. Of course - we responded promptly with the above. Thoughts? We asked him when would be a good time to meet in person and discuss next steps/options. Here was our response... .. .. .. "" Including the Christmas holiday that recently passed, there have been (3) business days since we reached out to you with a formal letter of our concerns and (1) business day since you've responded to our initial letter. As stated in our letter and at your request, Wife and I have been spending our free time reviewing all of the work "GC COMPANY NAME" and its subs have performed in our home. We feel cause was given to stop work and evaluate the current state of the project based on the conversation that you(GC) and I(Husband) had prior to the email I sent on 12/23. You explicitly told me that you were going to stop working until payment was collected - I expressed my concern for the items/work left in an unfinished/unsatisfactory state and you stated that you were "ready to move on" and "wanted to be off the job" and that "the work was acceptable". We feel that some of the work performed is unacceptable as a "finished product." In the interest of protecting both parties, we documented the current state of the work and created a detailed list of our concerns as well as unfinished tasks. As an FYI - we've never signed any formal contract. We put our trust in your reputation and at the time felt that was sufficient. Clearly, we were naive in making this assumption. To address any concerns regarding our ability to pay you for the completed project, funding is not an issue. Incomplete/unsatisfactory work is the issue. During our conversation on 12/23 - I expressed that I did not believe we were in a 'punch list' stage. If we were, I would have been more than happy to pay you right then for your completed work. As stated above - Wife and I have spent countless hours reviewing the work performed.. and documented in detail all of the issues, including taking photos. We feel this was not something that we should have had to do - but, given our conversation where you stated "the work was acceptable" and you "wanted to be off the job", we felt the need to demonstrate our commitment to getting this project completed by providing a detailed list of to do items and concerns to be resolved so that you could remediate these items and move on to your next job. Throughout this process, we've been extremely forgiving/understanding of the countless mistakes that were performed and have worked with you patiently to have them corrected. We want nothing more than to complete this project so we can enjoy our home and you get paid in full. Please allow 3-6 hours from the receipt of this email to compile our findings into a document for you. The document will contain all of the photographs/items still outstanding. We're in agreement in the desire to come together and reach a resolution. ** To date - 32,868.68$$ has been paid towards the project. ** "" [link] [comments] |
| Took the dark cabinet doors off the cabinetry above the bar, now what? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:00 PM PST We bought our condo this summer and absolutely love the kitchen. It's big and theres a ton of cabinet space. The only issue (aside from just needing a general update) is that there are cabinets above the breakfast bar and sink. The cabinets 1) block the view og the sliding glass window on the breakfast bar side (so the kitchen sink gets no view and no natural light) and 2) block the face of anyone sitting at the bar, so if you're at the sink and someone is at the bar, you're basically two headless bodies chatting. So we got sick of it today and decided to take off the cabinet doors and empty the contents of the cabinets (seriously we have so much storage in the kitchen). The plan is to eventually renovate the kitchen entirely and remove those cabinets all together, but for the time being utilize a more open cabinet concept. My husband, after spending the day on a different failed home improvement project, now decided he hates how our cabinets look and wants to put everything back. I think we should sit on it and add some plants. I was hoping to get some feedback on what you thought, how it looked/looks now, should we put the doors back on, or try to decorate a bit? I'm going to add a comment with links to an imgur album shortly. Thank you in advance for your thoughts! [link] [comments] |
| Help! My Pull-Up Bar Broke my Door Frame! Posted: 30 Dec 2020 07:30 PM PST I was installing my pull-up bar when the metal frame started coming apart. It appears that the frame was merely glued together. Anyway, my mom doesn't want me using it anymore unless I can fix it. What would it take to repair the frame? I learned the basics of MIG welding in High School, but I myself don't own any welding/safety equipment; I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. [link] [comments] |
| Have you ever installed a steam shower in your bathroom? Posted: 30 Dec 2020 01:33 PM PST My partner and I just bought our first house! It's an older house early 1900s) with lots of charm and potential in the PNW. We're very excited and have been discussing what we want to do to fix the house up. One of the first things we'd like to do is put in a second bathroom in the basement (we have two roommates, so living with one bathroom can be a little tricky sometimes!). My partner got the idea that he wants to put a steam shower in and has begun looking at videos on how to do the install (he's very handy!) and researching costs. I, on the other hand, am not dead set on the idea and am a little cautious about adding a steam shower (I have other things higher on the priority list and I'm sure the added feature will cost a chunk of change). I thought I'd post on here to ask if anyone has installed a steam shower and if you thought it was worth it? If there's any information that you deem pertinent (regrets, tips, surprises, etc.) I would love to hear it! [link] [comments] |
| How do I fix this? The screw will not hold in place. Posted: 30 Dec 2020 08:03 PM PST As title describes, I am trying to figure out how to screw and hold the register in place. There is little drywall anymore for the screws (on both sides) to hold in place. Any suggestions? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 04:54 PM PST The previous owners built a porch off the back of the house that's completely open except for a roof. Unfortunately they didn't use the correct footings so the whole thing is sinking into the ground. I don't want to have to redo the roof section over it, so I'm wondering if it's possible to redo the foundation with the structure in-place? https://imgur.com/gallery/POJGLfj I eventually want to turn it into an enclosed room of the house and not sure if it's better to just knock it down and start fresh or preserve what's there and fix the foundation and wall framing and add windows [link] [comments] |
| Suggestions for no overhead light fixtures? Switches are tied into the top outlet. Posted: 30 Dec 2020 07:44 PM PST Hopefully the title makes sense. The genius builders installed no overhead lighting in any bedrooms or the family room of our house. Everything is tied into the top electrical outlet on the wall, which means we have far fewer available outlets per room, and each room needs at least 4 or 5 lamps spread all over the room, a ton of extension cords and power strips, and it's still very dim in all of our rooms. Anyone have any suggestions? We've implemented Hug-A-Plug adapters in most outlets so we can plug in two lamps to the top outlets. Without mounting junction boxes and wiring through the ceiling, anyone have some simple suggestions? I don't really want lights that I have to control with my smartphone, if that makes a difference. I want to just flip the lightswitch on the wall. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 30 Dec 2020 05:27 PM PST New homeowner for about 8 months now. Remodeled brick row home. Much to my dread, I've found a wet spot this evening on the drywall (https://imgur.com/aZ301W1) . Seemed like an odd spot, so I opened up the drywall (https://imgur.com/DQFaU4K) . The drywall is damp and water was and saturating the horizontal framing. It seems that the water is coming from above rather than the window framing. The caulking around the window all looks good. The last picture is the gutter system which is about 4 feet above this area (https://imgur.com/RzX5leG ). I'm guessing that may be part of the problem. The old gutter stack was removed and the roof was resurfaced prior to purchase. A few questions
Thank you!! [link] [comments] |
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