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    Saturday, November 14, 2020

    Home Improvement: Sub flooring still smells like urine after Vinegar, bleach, and even sanding. Help!

    Home Improvement: Sub flooring still smells like urine after Vinegar, bleach, and even sanding. Help!


    Sub flooring still smells like urine after Vinegar, bleach, and even sanding. Help!

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 12:14 PM PST

    I'm a new home owner but haven't moved in due to the urine smell in the subfloors. I've ripped out the carpets and discovered just how bad it is. I've sprayed it heavily with vinegar and let it dry for 5 days. I've gone over it with bleach (wearing a respirator) and let that air out for days. I've even sanded it with a floor sander (it's just regular tongue and groove plywood) using 36 grit and it still smells like urine.

    What can I do short of replacing the subfloor? I feel like I've run out of options and I'm willing to replace it but hopefully there's another solution I haven't thought of.

    submitted by /u/musky_archer
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    Hey folks! Just bought my very first house!

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 12:49 PM PST

    I am looking to finish off a back storage room and wanted to touch base to see if I could pick the brains of this community on where to begin and what to keep in mind when jumping into first home projects.

    Appreciate the help!

    submitted by /u/Madman4sale
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    Just had a “plumber” out who snaked our kitchen drain and made it exponentially worse. Any suggestions other than calling another one out? Has anyone rented or worked with a hydro jet before?

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 02:34 PM PST

    Hate to throw shade at the guy by putting plumber in quotes but he came unprepared in his personal pickup truck and made our problem worse.

    I used to work in the office as a dispatcher for a plumbing and heating company who sent out technicians with fully equipped vans. They would show up to every job with virtually anything they could possibly need. This guy - who our home warranty people sent - showed up in his pickup and had to run out to Home Depot to purchase PVC fittings my guys would have had with them.

    Anyway! My parents (3rd floor) condo kitchen drain was draining excruciatingly slowly. Dude came with a snake and ran her down about 22 feet. He had serious trouble getting his snake back out (he thought it may have broke) and once he finally did - the sink drains slower than ever. To say it drains at all is generous. It took over an hour for the little water he put in there to drain out.

    He said we'll need someone to come with a hydro jet and blast whatever's in there out from the roof - then went on his merry way. I'd love a second opinion because he wasn't terribly knowledgeable and was confused that he made matters worse.

    Idk why he couldn't just do the hydro jetting for us or what it all entails - but does that sound right to those of you familiar with this shit? I can't remember my techs ever getting their auger stuck like he did - nor did they ever leave a job worse than they found it.

    We have little interest in this warranty company sending out another person as our confidence in them is shot but we just moved in from 3,000 miles away and don't have a trustworthy "go-to" guy yet.

    Wondering how common - if at all - this is and what others have done to correct it.

    Sorry for the novel. Morale is low and frustration is high. Hope you're all enjoying your weekend!

    submitted by /u/modsarefailures
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    My First Cabinet Build

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 07:08 AM PST

    Photos: https://imgur.com/gallery/JUWGnUp

    I buttoned up the install of this last night, and am really happy with how this turned out. It's a custom built-in cabinet with two drawers and a 5/4" Hickory top in our master bathroom.

    I watched Bourbon Moth's tutorial on YouTube for building cabinets, and it was a big help. Very well put together and detailed.

    The carcass is 3/4" BB ply, the face frame and drawer fronts are 3/4" Poplar, the drawer boxes are 1/2" BB ply, and the top was 6/4 Hickory that was planned down to a finished thickness of 5/4".

    The cost of the build is broken down below: - Wood: $170 - Blum Slides: $70 - Clamps: $185 (two 50" parallel and four 36" F-style clamps) - 6" Freud Dado Stack: $85 - Aluminum Clamping Squares: $45 - Rail & Stile Router Bits: $120 - Rail & Stile Coping Sled: $60 - Hardware & Fasteners: $35 - Paint: $15

    So all in, it ended up costing me just under $800 and about 4 weekends-worth of work, but about $525 of that was for "stuff" that I'll be able to use in future builds and won't have to re-buy. Overall, it was a pretty straightforward build that resulted in a custom piece of furniture that looks great and adds function and storage.

    submitted by /u/ijm5012
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    People who have switched to solid core doors, how much of a difference does it make?

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 09:07 PM PST

    Recently I have become fed up with just how much noise is transmitted within our house. We are actually in a Townhome, and you would think my complaint would be about noise from the neighbors, but we cannot hear them because there's pretty amazing between-unit sound insulation.

    On the other hand, I can hear pretty much everything that happens within-unit from just about anywhere. We regularly have conversations through closed doors without even raising our voices.

    So my question is: People who have switched to solid, MDF doors (and perhaps added weatherproofing), how much of a difference does it make?

    We are also planning to add some MLV when we replace the flooring upstairs to further help reduce noise transmission, but for now I would settle with not hearing everything that happens on the other side of every door.

    Anyway, before we invest the money, I just want to make sure it will be worth it.

    submitted by /u/Eadword
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    Installing a new ceiling light and box has only two white wires

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 06:29 PM PST

    I have been changing out a few light fixtures in my condo and previous boxes all had one white and one other color which I assumed was black/live. This fixture was previously working fine and when I unhooked the old fixture I didn't notice both wires coming out of the box were white until the light was disconnected from the box,

    I thought it was odd none of the other fixtures had a grounding wire despite this being a high-rise in downtown Chicago built in 2003.

    How do I determine which white wire is the live and what would happen if I mixed them up? Also, should I be concerned that none of the fixtures had a grounding wire?

    Pictures of the box: https://imgur.com/a/1J4ah2k?

    submitted by /u/Long_Dong_Larry
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    Unable to find wall studs - multiple techniques used already!

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 06:30 PM PST

    I am currently working on trying to put a wall mount up for my TV. TV is 65inch and about 55lbs.

    The problem that I am having is that I am unable to find the studs in the wall to hang the TV on. I am using a Zircon L550 multi-scanner and have been unable to find any studs using it.

    I have also attempted to use rare-earth magnets to find a stud by locating the drywall screws. I found a screw and then drilled an exploratory hole directly above the screw (less then 1/2 inch) to confirm and it went right through drywall, backer board and then pulled out a tuft of insulation.

    The wall is a shared wall with the foyer/entry hall of the condo building and is drywall with some kind of plywood backing board that is very thin. Behind the plywood backing is insulation.

    Stud finder battery was replaced with a new one out of the package today (11/14/20). I am open to any suggestions as the plywood backing board means it is impossible to tell if there is a stud without drilling (trying to tap a nail in gets stuck in the wood and also provides a false positive).

    submitted by /u/amagadon
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    Can’t caulk very well. Need help.

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 09:10 PM PST

    So I've read the tips before. Fill the tub with water, make sure the surface is very clean and dry, outline with painters tape, all that jazz.

    I've got a couple problems. My tub drain plug wasn't making a complete seal so the water drained out throughout the day. The main problem though is the floor is that fake hardwood vinyl flooring and I can push down on it and it moves so after I waited 24 hours and walked into the bathroom, the caulk cracked right away. Also, the shower walls can flex as well so it cracks basically all around the tub.

    Is there something I can do to fix this? Can I use more caulk so hopefully it won't crack next time?

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

    submitted by /u/bubbablake
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    Help! Exterior wall loose in attic

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 07:49 PM PST

    In my attic the exterior wall appears to not be attached to the joists. I can push on the sheathing or studs and make a good length of it shift and wiggle. I have searched to see if this is normal or if I need to add some brackets or something else to tie it together, but have come up empty. I was hoping someone could help me with advice or at least point me in the right direction.

    wiggle wall

    submitted by /u/Chazmyr21
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    One sink lost pressure

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 09:01 PM PST

    The water pressure in my sink on the main floor bathroom has decreased substantially recently. I am not sure the cause but it appears to only be affecting that sink and seems to have just happened recently, not over time. Any advice on how to diagnose and / or fix the problem?

    submitted by /u/slafa23
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    Towel bar hardware is an a**hole

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 07:42 PM PST

    Greetings! I want to move this towel bar but cannot figure out how to detach its hardware from the wall. Brand is unknown. Help!

    The bar itself is one piece, and its posts slide on over the two wall-mounted posts. Allen screws inserted from the bottom then secure the bar's posts to the wall-mounted posts.

    But once the bar is off, there's no other obvious hardware. The chrome caps remain on the wall and have no screws in them anywhere. I've tried rotating them as if they're threaded on but they don't budge. Gently pulling on them does nothing either. Wall posts are the same story - no visible hardware, and they don't seem to respond to any...external stimuli.

    So, how in the heck do I get these suckers off?? Anyone?

    https://imgur.com/FKvzBHQ

    https://imgur.com/UOWd2Ex

    https://imgur.com/NF9z5Fo

    https://imgur.com/EMaHVoO

    submitted by /u/samwise801
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    Need Advice on This Ceiling

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 06:37 PM PST

    Hey everyone,

    I have a problem that is beyond my understanding. I am buying a fixer upper, and this ceiling is a hassle.. I'm buying it from my Aunt and Uncle who can't make the repairs nor can they afford the repairs to be made.. He is saying to place strips along the ceiling going opposite the joists and hang a new ceiling without removing the old ceiling. Personally I'd like to remove it and start from scratch, but this being a modular home he thinks it's an issue. Can you all have a look at this and give me some ideas?

    pics

    submitted by /u/tbb1984
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    Can anyone help me find the make or model of this furnace?

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 04:22 PM PST

    Pictures: https://m.imgur.com/a/G7p9uU3

    The label is too faded and I need to find the make and model.

    Edit: this is a wood burning heater, not a furnace...

    submitted by /u/JeffDIY
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    Anxiety about floor joist holes

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 04:12 PM PST

    I'm doing some wiring and really didn't think much about drilling into my joist webbing until I did a 2" hole and it seemed way too big.

    Then I read its bad to drill within 12 " of a load butnik about 3 inches from a load bearing beam. Any advice on how to proceed? Do I need to worry?

    I noticed our builders used the knockouts 2"from the side of an exterior wall. Is that OK?

    Please help!

    • Added photo

    2 inch hole

    wider view

    view from other side to show beam length

    submitted by /u/jonaskizl
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    Crawl space vents. Open or Close?

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 01:46 PM PST

    I live in North Carolina and my house is built on a crawl space. The vents have the ability to be opened or closed but I've read conflicting information on what to do. It seems to always be pretty musty no matter what I do

    submitted by /u/johnny8bravo
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    Tight laundry closet

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 09:10 PM PST

    A family member is struggling to get a new washer and dryer to fit in a laundry closet. The closest is only 30 inches deep. Most dryers need 33 or more. Extending the closet is not an option. Compact size washer and dryer is a last resort. I'm wondering if anyone faced the same challenge and found a good solution?

    submitted by /u/Wis-en-heim-er
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    Worlds worst painter

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 07:30 PM PST

    I'm the worlds worst painter. What would cause paint to dry more shiny after hole patch. Paint was from the same can as when I painted the walls. Where I patched is more shiny then the rest of the wall. And how would I fix it? TIA

    submitted by /u/Itsjustmikec
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    Lath and Plaster Wall Repair

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 07:27 PM PST

    I just bought a (100+year old) home with lath and plaster walls. The walls are in reasonable condition, but there are many cracks which have been poorly patched over the years. I've done drywall repair plenty of times before and am comfortable scraping out, filling, taping etc. to make on drywall. Question is - can I use regular drywall jointing compound or quickset on plaster? Are there special types for this application or specific brands/types to avoid?

    Also, this Plaster Magic product is recommended in a few places (eg. this old house) for re-attaching the plaster where keys are broken. Is it as good as advertised? Much more expensive than using the older style plaster washers, happy to pay if it's really worth it.

    submitted by /u/s-gardo
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    Primer ? No primer?

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 07:09 PM PST

    Hey guys, I recently closed on a co-op and I'm planning on painting the walls from light blue( https://ibb.co/F7Ff9qj ) to gray (Benjamin Moore #1464 Light Pewter).

    Do you guys think I need to prime the walls or can I just paint it without priming it?

    submitted by /u/simp1yjess
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    Need help with a transition from hardwood to stone.

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 04:06 PM PST

    So as the title says I'm kind of stuck here.

    I'll add a link to the image in the comments because I can't do a image post.

    Edit okay I can't seem to upload a picture but the issue is my hard wood is like 3/4 of inch Lower than the stone entry and it's about 4-5 ft long and the gap between them is maybe 1/4 inch wide.

    What can I do?

    submitted by /u/Grassfedcake
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    Chronic Smoker Apt Odor Problems

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 06:40 PM PST

    My parents own the property, and had to evict this guy due to chronic cigarette smoking bothering the other tenants. He smoked in here for 10 years 🤮. I came in and cleaned everything and then went over it with two coats of paint. The paint was cheap Valspar from Lowes. After painting the odor wasn't noticeable except in a few areas still requiring cleaning.

    My son and I moved into this apartment a week ago, and then it got COLD around here and I don't open the windows anymore. And the smell is back with a force 😭. I'm pretty sure the smell is coming from the walls.

    Did I just waste a bunch of time and money and now have to paint all over again?

    Does someone have a paint recommendation?

    Would an ozone machine do the trick without painting all over again?

    submitted by /u/Festi_Dawn
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    Moving in. What to change immediately?

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 11:52 AM PST

    We just bought a house and was wondering what are the major things we should replace right away? We've already replaced all the locks. Also, can someone install a whole house water filtration system by themselves? Thanks!

    submitted by /u/JamnJ27
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    How to fix this big hole in my popcorn ceiling (and deal with the asbestos)

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 02:24 PM PST

    New home owner here. We removed the chimney from an old pellet stove when we put in a new roof. But it left this hole in the popcorn ceiling (built in the 70s, not sure if there's asbestos!) with some frayed edges:

    https://i.imgur.com/O4HerQo.jpg

    Some questions:

    • any idea what the ceiling is made of?
    • how do I fill the hole (it's about 8" diameter)
    • should I be worried I'm breathing asbestos due to the frayed edges?
    • how do I safely test for asbestos-I've seen instructions on testing but it seems you need a respirator and plastic sheeting and a fancy vacuum and shit-can you pay someone to do all that safely?
    • I want to mount something elsewhere on the ceiling-is it safe to drill small holes through popcorn ceilings like this?
    submitted by /u/sirius_basterd
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    Advice for detached garage insulation in MN

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 01:08 PM PST

    Wanted to insulate garage so I can do some projects during the winter. I am in MN and it will just be heated temporarily with a space heater for a few hours at a time on the weekend. The garage door is not insulated currently. The walls are just concrete. The spacing is 16 for the ceiling". Reason for doing this is I don't have room in my basement for tools and such. I have done a few hours of research and there were too many differing opinions or the situation was different, attached garage, warmer climate etc.. Couple of questions and wanted to see opinions.

    1. Material to use? Was originally planning on just using roll insulation (R-30 or so) and cutting to length. I don't think I need mineral wool as I have never seen the area get wet, and I believe it is more expensive. Also don't think it needs the expense of spray foam as I won't be using it all the time, just occasionally.
    2. Do I need soffit vents? If so does it have to go all the way up to the peak of the roof.
    3. Do I need a vapor barrier? Or just used craft faced roll?

    Thanks in advance.

    https://imgur.com/hSoWnAx

    submitted by /u/djhomeless
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    Tool suggestions

    Posted: 14 Nov 2020 12:20 PM PST

    Do you have a recommendation for a good cordless tool system? We've had a black and decker 18v set for 15 years and the batteries aren't lasting as long as they used to. We are considering starting to upgrade. What do you recommend?

    submitted by /u/Jerklefoot
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