Home Improvement: Why is my bill high? - Home Utilities 101 (water/sewer/electric) |
- Why is my bill high? - Home Utilities 101 (water/sewer/electric)
- Turned an attic storage area into a bonus room for my daughter...
- SOS on how to diy easy removable soundproof because if obnoxiously loud neighbors please help we're going crazy
- First time installing crown molding - warped ceiling UPDATE
- Nail heads coming through drywall over time?
- Are there “rules of thumb” I should pay attention to while picking interior paint colors?
- Do projects often take longer than they’re estimated?
- Earth/wet smell in room above crawl space.
- Roofing choices
- Room wallpaper with orange dust showing up
- Is this a result of water damage or just painting over wallpaper?
- Is it fine to put scotch tape to cover ceiling holes then just paint over it?
- Advice on #3 rebar 36 inches on center or 18 inches on center?
- First time kitchen renovation! (Still in progress)
- Advice on paint sprayer, please!
- How to fill gap between addition and original house?
- Raised ceilings make this apartment feel empty
- What tool to take shiplap off of studs without destroying it?
- Siding - ring shank or smooth nails
- What's the easiest way to maneuver a multi position ladder?
- Time for a new boiler?
- flooring under pocket door-- wrong height
- Should I pull up my carpeting?
- Bathroom Fan Vent Help (No ducting)
- Leaked water on engineered hardwood
| Why is my bill high? - Home Utilities 101 (water/sewer/electric) Posted: 20 Sep 2020 06:34 PM PDT Hey all, we are working on a sidebar post to help with those that have high utility bills. This is a write-up we are proposing as a starting point for those questions. Obviously, there is no way to include every case but this should be a good reference. We are looking for additions/comments/suggestions to improve. We'll leave this open for a few weeks then it will be moved to a sidebar link. All feedback is welcome! Post to follow: Hey All, This post is going to serve as a catch-all for reasons why your utility bill may be high along with some basic mitigation strategies. Bills can be high any time of the year but in the heat of summer or dead of winter is more likely. However, a high bill can strike anytime. You should ALWAYS know where your water/gas/electric meter is. This can save you a lot of headache. Before reading further figure out where it is. For water you will likely have 2 shutoffs. One just inside the house where the water line penetrates. The other will be near the street and on your meter. This one is usually harder to access/use but it's there. You may need special tools - a curb key and/or penta head wrench. First things first, confirm your meter reading against what your utility company says. Electric, gas, and water all have a meter you can read yourself. It will likely be a number of days since the reading actually occurred, but it should still be close. If it's grossly off call your utility company. Next, are you in any type of budget billing? Many times, there is a catch-up month where you pay whatever the difference was for the past 11 months. Meaning if you were $50 low for 11 months you now owe $550 plus your normal bill. Your utility company can work out a payment plan. Weather, weather weather weather. Usage can vary WILDLY based on weather. Even a few degrees difference or slightly less rain can have a drastic impact on your bill. Before you compare to past year(s) check and see how the weather stacks up. Many times, your utility company will have a way for you to see this with minimal effort. Beyond that, make sure your bills are actual readings and not estimates. The bill will tell you if it's an actual or estimated reading and you can always call your utility company if you are unsure. Some utility companies estimate then only do actual reads every quarter. If your utility company is estimating bills you can usually self-read and correct it yourself. Keep in mind if you lie, they will know the next time they actually read the meter. If you just moved in, you can also typically request the last 12 months of usage from your utility company. Keep in mind the POs usage WILL NOT mirror yours. It should at least give you some idea though for a baseline. Now for specific utilities. WaterA spontaneous high bill can be a leak. Toilets are a normal culprit but there can be others. Even a tiny leak like a toilet re-filling every 30 minutes can have a huge impact on your bill. Your water meter will have a small leak detection dial. Make sure everything is off the see if the dial is spinning (could be a small triangular shaped dial or a small silver wheel that rotates). If it is, you have a leak. Shut off water to the house and see if it's inside or outside. Lawn watering/irrigation/pool filling can be a HUGE cause of high usage. During a dry month your bill could be many times higher than normal. If you are on city sewer you can sometimes pay a fee to have a deduct meter installed that will make sure the usage you have not going down the drain doesn't count towards your sewer bill. They may also have a program to not bill sewer for excessive usage. You should always talk to them and see what programs they offer. Finally, a bad meter can also lead to a high bill. It's not super-common but it does happen. GasIf you are in a colder climate and on gas heat welcome to your bill. In the dead of winter heating will be your largest use of gas by far. If you are using more than normal might be a leak. While being bad for your wallet this can be VERY deadly. If you suspect a leak call your gas company and emergency line immediately! Remember, natural gas smells like rotten eggs (sulfur). While not specifically related to a high bill make sure you have working CO detectors near all gas appliances and at least one per floor. The combo CO/smoke ones are nice. ElectricIf you heating is electric (heat pump/aux heat strips) and in a colder climate your bill can be many times higher in the winter. Make sure your thermostat is on HEAT and not AUX/EMERGENCY if you are 100% electric. A heat pump is 200-300% efficient while aux electric heat is only 100% efficient. A bad meter is always a possibility. You can request a test from your electric company, and they will replace if found to be defective. Outside that, if you have outside outlets it's possible someone is stealing your electric. A failing well pump or pressure tank can also be a cause of high usage. Well pumps running constantly (or way more than normal) will destroy your bill. When in doubt call your utility company! They can help you understand discrepancies and provide next steps. They don't want you to default on a bill and if it turns out to be legit will work with you on a payment plan. MitigationIf you don't have any actual problems here is a (brief) list of ways to help bring your bill down:
Any questions let me know! I happen to work for an electric company. [link] [comments] |
| Turned an attic storage area into a bonus room for my daughter... Posted: 20 Sep 2020 02:16 PM PDT Hi all. A year ago, I posted to ask if I could remove a set of 'construction' braces in an unfinished area of our attic. This is my follow up post ... My 12 year old daughter asked if I would turn that 6x9 space (that was being used as storage) into a 'reading room'. It is accessible through a little access door from her room on the 2nd floor. I once built an outside play house (last picture in imgur post) but have never done anything like this before. We did it together and it was a great learning experience for both us. Details in the album below. Oh .. definitely not being used a 'reading room'. I was conned. :-/ [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 20 Sep 2020 04:03 AM PDT We just moved in two weeks ago. The woman who we share a living room and bedroom wall with is extremely loud all hours of the day and her children are too. She has friends over all the time and they are constantly shouting, walking with their heels, slamming everything. We've approached her politely and her response was to laugh at us and tell us who the f do we think we are and that we're liars and she can be as loud as she wants on the weekends so get over it or take it up with the association. She even slammed the door in our face after so hard the entire hallway wall shook. She's not just loud on the weekends, it's every day all day. Anyway, she's obviously not going to change her habits nor is she willing to compromise in any way. We don't want to take it up with the swedish association here unless it's completely necessary either because things will escalate pretty quickly and she seems like the seeking out revenge type. That being said, of nothing works we will take it up with who we need to. Does anyone know easy sound proofing that we can apply to our living room and bedroom wall that isn't an eyesore and completely drowns out sound? The walls are cement, not drywall (idk if that makes a difference). Anyway, please for the love of god, any tip or advice helps. I don't know how much more we quiet introverts can take. [link] [comments] |
| First time installing crown molding - warped ceiling UPDATE Posted: 20 Sep 2020 09:45 AM PDT First ever time install crown molding, it all went okay but this section of the ceiling and wall were all screwed up. I had to grind down all sorts of random places and then jam it up there and fire 1000 nails in Here is what it looked like. This is the best I could do https://i.imgur.com/bGnrQ1T.jpg Well, here is what it looks like filled, caulked and painted https://i.imgur.com/WMR2c8C.jpg I'm pretty happy Whole room pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DOi0Sc6 [link] [comments] |
| Nail heads coming through drywall over time? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 08:32 PM PDT It seems like a few nail heads are starting to poke through the dry way in some locations on our ceiling. Any clue what may be causing this? The drywall around them (perfect circle) appears to be peeling off and falling to the floor. Our home was built in 1994 and has had a foundation repair in the past. Could this be the cause? We have only lived here for nine months and have noticed at least 2-3 locations like this. [link] [comments] |
| Are there “rules of thumb” I should pay attention to while picking interior paint colors? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 08:05 PM PDT Hello all, We're going to be painting, and I'm not sure how to pick out the colors. The first floor is kind of open and I was wondering if I have to paint the whole space the same color. Any ideas of where to start? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Do projects often take longer than they’re estimated? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 05:21 AM PDT I have anxiety which leads to trust issues but I've been trying to get the basement finished so we can add an HVAC unit. So far we only have three things left, that's building a stairwell, which we are waiting on building supplies for, apparently they already have the insulation and water heater ready but wants to wait for the stairwell material so they can do everything in one day. My anxiety feels like they're stalling and going to leave our project behind. I want move on to the HVAC project, and then we have to get the deck fixed because it's sinking, add a home security system, and we have an attic finish. [link] [comments] |
| Earth/wet smell in room above crawl space. Posted: 20 Sep 2020 08:01 PM PDT I'm replacing all of the flooring in my house and 75% of my house is above a basement and I got to the area above a crawl space, after ripping up two layer of vinyl sheet flooring and a 1/4" layer of plywood between them all I could smell was earth/moisture and it now has overtaken the smell of my whole house. There is a vapor barrier and insulation on the ground in the crawl space and a vent from the exterior into the crawl space as well as a vent from the crawl space into the basement. I do not want to lay new flooring till the smell is taken care of due to concerns of warping laminate plank flooring but am on a timeline because appliance come in 10 days. What is the best way to avoid this smell from permeating through the subfloor? My original thought was to place a vapor barrier down on the subfloor before the flooring to protect that but don't want to trap moisture and don't want to still have to deal with the smell. Note: located In Pennsylvania. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 20 Sep 2020 01:27 PM PDT For those who are familiar with roofs, the roofer gave me the option of CertainTeed's Landmark Pro as the base price, then Landmark premium for $500 more or Presidential Shake for $1,500 more. Is the Presidental Shake worth the $1,500 extra? My house is approximate 1500 sq ft + 2 car garage. Thanks for any feedback. I live in Northern CA so weather is nice all year. [link] [comments] |
| Room wallpaper with orange dust showing up Posted: 20 Sep 2020 02:50 AM PDT I had my room redone about a month ago and we put a new wallpaper up. Today I noticed some orange dust on the floor and then I realized it was falling from the walls. I looked at the walls and noticed different spots with some orange dusty formations which I can kind of scratch off but the wallpaper behind it gets faded. Can anyone tell me what this is and how I can fix it? [link] [comments] |
| Is this a result of water damage or just painting over wallpaper? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 08:45 PM PDT I bought a 120 year-old house three months ago. I expected to have some issues because of the age and the fact I bought it from a flipper. In my spare bedroom, I noticed that the paint is peeling off the walls in large chunks. There's clearly ancient wallpaper under the paint, so I suspect they just did a lazy job of painting it. That black-ish spare in the corner concerns me. It's an outer-facing wall, so I'm concerned that there's water coming through the brick veneer. There's no sign of mold growing on the wall paper that came off the wall and the space is bone-dry, but it's still concerning. So, does this look like a result of water damage? [link] [comments] |
| Is it fine to put scotch tape to cover ceiling holes then just paint over it? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 08:36 PM PDT |
| Advice on #3 rebar 36 inches on center or 18 inches on center? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 08:05 PM PDT I recently received a quote from concrete contractor for 20 X 10 and 4 inch slab. In that he mentioned #3 rebar would be placed 36 inch on - center, but what I read from other posts is # 3 rebar should be placed at 18 inch to 24 inches on center. I would highly appreciate if experienced folks could advice. [link] [comments] |
| First time kitchen renovation! (Still in progress) Posted: 20 Sep 2020 07:57 PM PDT https://imgur.com/gallery/EecOXH0 Just just installed our cabinets tonight and wanted to share! We are renovating a 100 year home that needed a little love. We kept the uppers that were already there and are in the process of replacing everything us. Also not pictured is the original hardwood floor that we uncovered under many layers of floor. Next steps: installing countertops (cherry butcherblock with a marine grade finish), dishwasher, sink, backsplash (thinking of going with a subway tile), cabinet doors (shaker), and lots of finish work! We move into our new place in two weeks so there is much more work to do it but I will share everything we finish. Looking for any last minute suggestions or things we might of missed. Thanks! Bonus picture from this morning: https://imgur.com/gallery/WIzcti7 [link] [comments] |
| Advice on paint sprayer, please! Posted: 20 Sep 2020 04:38 PM PDT Doing the typical 125 year old house maintenance and upkeep, with my 68 year old body! Interior ceilings, walls, steps. Exterior picket fence, front porch, doors. Primer and good quality latex paint. Maybe give the wicker furniture a freshen up. Sometimes I'm a bit slow, but a light bulb went off and I thought...paint sprayer! I can get help with prep, I'm picky. I have decades of DIY paint experience, just with a brush and roller. I own a pancake compressor. Or it could be electric. So, does anybody have a recommendation for a paint sprayer? I'd like to stay under $175. I'm itching to get started!!! [link] [comments] |
| How to fill gap between addition and original house? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 04:37 PM PDT I've got a gap between my house and an addition, and I believe mice are getting in through it. How can I fill the gap at the intersection, as well as the gap at the top above the concrete block? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments] |
| Raised ceilings make this apartment feel empty Posted: 20 Sep 2020 06:48 PM PDT Hey everyone! Not sure if this is the right place to post this dilemma, but I'm looking for advice. I'm looking for suggestions on how to make our apartment feel more homey. Recently I feel like I've realized that our extreme vaulted ceilings are what's making this apartment feel so empty. We have some art on the walls (not too much) and the essential decor so far (couch, coffee table, tv stand, lamps) but it still feels so empty. Wondering if this sub has any suggestions on how to improve our apartment, and make it more cozy since the ceilings are so high? TYIA! [link] [comments] |
| What tool to take shiplap off of studs without destroying it? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 04:30 PM PDT Yeah, I could beat on it with a sledge hammer, but I'd rather get the wood off intact. It's good 'barn board' I'm sure there is a clever way to do this. [link] [comments] |
| Siding - ring shank or smooth nails Posted: 20 Sep 2020 06:39 PM PDT I am having my home resided with vinyl siding and it will be going over a 1.5" sandwich of 1/2" each of plywood/homasote/plywood. The certainteed rep recommended ring shank nails and sent me a document that seems to indicate that ring shank is the code when nailing to plywood sheathing and not the studs. My contractor wants to use smooth nails. He said he never heard of using ring shank nails and is concerned about the siding getting bound up on the rings when it needs to move. I live in Michigan so not a huge wind area in general. I wanted to post to see if I should just go with the smooth nails or push the contractor to accept using ring shank nails. Thank you. [link] [comments] |
| What's the easiest way to maneuver a multi position ladder? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 06:37 PM PDT Is there a trick to be able to get this thing in fully extended mode without the struggle? I figured i could fully extend it on the ground then rise it up but i can't reach the center of gravity on it to push it up, the feet give out. Then i figured i could fully extend the A frame then snap it straight somehow but i couldn't figure it out. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 20 Sep 2020 04:24 PM PDT Bought a new house for my family and I last year. House has an old boiler, installed in the late 80's. Boiler works, heats both the hot water and the house effectively. . My question: Is it worth replacing the boiler now before a possible failure? I don't want to be stuck over the winter either waking up to or coming home to a frozen house. And I'm unsure as to how fuel efficiency or more efficient technology plays a role. Any assistance is appreciated. Thank you. [link] [comments] |
| flooring under pocket door-- wrong height Posted: 20 Sep 2020 02:33 PM PDT We got some renovation work done last year and there was existing laminate in our condo. Now, we decided to install engineered hardwood and realized that the door which as low enough for the laminate to pass underneath is too low for the new flooring to pass underneath. Our flooring contractor says that it only matters when the doors are open (which they almost always are) and that we can paint/stain the concrete and edge of the flooring to it's less noticeable. Can you think of any other options? I was thinking maybe some sort of U-channel? Or it is worth it to try to remove the trim, raise the door, and add a transition piece? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Should I pull up my carpeting? Posted: 20 Sep 2020 06:16 PM PDT We have two bedrooms and a tiny hallway in between that are covered with carpet that is probably decades old. It's a cream color and we can't keep it clean. I pulled up corners in the bedrooms to find hardwood in excellent condition (image 1). Exciting! But then I pulled up the little hallway (images 2 and 3) and found this old wood parquet and a giant plywood patch. Let's say the bedrooms require minimal work, will it be expensive to replace the hall? It's about 5'x5'. Will it be worth it? I could also replace the carpeting but I know that will be pricey too because I'd prefer wool as it's easier to maintain. What do you guys think? [link] [comments] |
| Bathroom Fan Vent Help (No ducting) Posted: 20 Sep 2020 09:52 PM PDT So what my partner and I thought was going to be a straight-forward bathroom fan replacement in our '74 split foyer we moved in around a month ago has turned into a minor debacle. There was a white pipe out the roof that we falsely assumed was the bathroom vent, but it seems it's actually the vent pipe for the sewage plumbing. I went up today to replace the duct we thought was there- and no duct to be found. I come down after consternation and digging around with a rake to test my idea that there isn't anything connected to this bathroom fan and sure enough there's loose insulation I can feel through the output of the old fan. I think the only/best option (from searching through old posts on here) is to go out the end of the house through the sidewall, since we have soffit vents and a metal roof that we don't really want to mess with. That would be a 16 foot (almost 5 meter) run of 4" duct. Is this too long of a run for a fan that can do 80 or 110 CFM? Are there any other options that won't require drastic wiring changes? Current Supplies: -Sub favorite Panasonic Fan (FV-08-11VFL5E) -25 foot of insulated and wrapped 4" duct (still in the box) [link] [comments] |
| Leaked water on engineered hardwood Posted: 20 Sep 2020 09:44 PM PDT Hello All, First post in the group after searching for similar issues. Im in a bit of a pickle and I am not sure what to do. I am a first time homeowner of a new construction that closed on Sept 13, 2019 in the DFW area. The significance of the date being that I am outside of the builder's 1 year warranty on all items. This past weekend, my Wife and I decided to leave town to celebrate our anniversary. We were gone from 10/17 - 10/19. While we were away, a power surge in the neighborhood tripped the breaker to the refrigerator. Our Kitchenaid fridge has an ice maker that is housed in the fridge portion of the unit with the freezer at the bottom. The ice in the holding tray melted and that water pooled in front of the fridge and to the side as far as 5 feet away on the engineered hardwood (Mohawk-Tobacco Birch). Since it matters, this is what I do know: The power was out at least 24 hours before we returned (10/18). The floor did not look wet when we noticed the breakers tripped/no power to fridge (10/19). Thermostat set to 75 (F). My questions for the group: With respect to the provided images, does anyone have any tips on removing the stains (circled)? So far I have tried rubbing alcohol without any success. I fear water damage and cupping, would it be wise to contact my homeowners insurance provider and discuss a claim? I know it is possible the provider may not even cover any possible damage. Please forgive my naïveté, I have never faced this situation before and humbly request the best steps moving forward from the community. Thank you for your time in advance. [link] [comments] |
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