Home Improvement: Quarantine Bathroom Remodel |
- Quarantine Bathroom Remodel
- Contractor increased price. No work done yet
- Order of Operations?
- How to turn off this circuit breaker
- Gap under garage door
- Whose problem is this??
- Handyman service fees? Is a $95 trip fee plus $95 an hour reasonable?
- How to fill deep cracks with concrete? (Los Angeles)
- Light spots in stain
- Replacing vintage thermostat, no lettered labels
- Advice on Gutters - Leaf guards
- How to Get Dark Spots Out of Granite?
- Anyone know how to get a fan to stop shaking and rattling?
- Russian Roulette with Dryer... suggestions/input requested
- Where do I find dark gray external flat paint (dark base) for shed siding?
- Should I get a ducted range hood fan with a top duct or a back wall duct?
- caulking a tub
- Does a foundation drain need to exit to daylight? Or is a pop up emitter drain OK?
- Is expensive paint primer worth it?
- Vapour barrier?
- Hanging on FRP
- Who should I reach out to get a rim joist replaced
- New House - Painting
- Replaced doors. Did I mess up?
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 05:20 PM PDT Just completed our quarantine project and excited to share! We renovated/updated our spare bathroom in our home. Started this project mid April, and just finished - so 5 months from start to finish working every weekend on this and many week nights. [link] [comments] |
| Contractor increased price. No work done yet Posted: 18 Sep 2020 11:20 AM PDT So we did something we never really expected to do but my wife and I came to an agreement to replace our roof and our windows with a door to door salesman. We hadn't shopped around but from what we knew about prices (a rough estimate) this price was a really good deal and, as far as we were concerned, much less than we were expecting to pay for a roof and windows. During the cancellation period, I looked into the company and they seemed to be legitimate. They called us yesterday and told us that they under bid and material costs were going to be a lot higher than they expected to the tune of around $4,500 (which is a fair percentage of the total) and that they needed us to pay that. Obviously I'm not happy about this and I had a few concerns, particularly that the cost went up by so much when they haven't even been out to measure our windows or our roof but also I find it hard to believe that costs went up by that much in the three weeks since we signed a contract. This was a contract, not a proposal. I understand costs can change so we are trying to be reasonable but here are my questions:
I appreciate any feedback and advice. This is my first big home project and getting that call yesterday totally ruined my day. Update: thanks everyone for your responses. I've learned a lot here and there's a lot to go over. Hopefully I'm not going to regret this but ended up coming to an agreement with them and wanted to share (i didn't cut and run... I guess we'll see how it goes) Here's what we agreed on: - splitting the cost. Says they're doing the project at a loss. I have no evidence of this but it's what they say - no more change orders. This is in writing. If they find bad plywood on the roof, they replace it so this cost is my final cost I'm also going to hire someone after the work is done to verify it was done correctly to make sure they don't cut any corners In definitely nervous about continuing with this company (for obvious reasons) but i do want the work done, they've gotten plenty of good reviews online (i know these can be faked), and I've looked into their license etc. It's been a learning experience. I hope I don't learn any more new stuff [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 08:41 AM PDT We just moved into a 1964 hi-ranch with the original siding, windows and HVAC, plus a 30 ye old roof. To ensure we dont have to double back, what is the optimal order in which to tackle the following items over the next year?
I'm thinking we can get the windows and siding done by the same company. Thanks! Edit: wow! Didn't expect such a response! Everything will be done by a licensed contractor with local permits as I've been burned before. Based on feedback:
[link] [comments] |
| How to turn off this circuit breaker Posted: 18 Sep 2020 07:34 AM PDT In my garden shed there is this circuit breaker (I am guessing), which I need to turn off to install a light. How to turn this off? As far as I can tell, I need to either turn it clockwise or anticlockwise. http://imgur.com/gallery/VyfKX2R Edit: Thanks everyone you were right http://imgur.com/gallery/3GJW7nB Edit2: I removed the white fuse without turning the black knob, which was foolish of me. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 09:04 AM PDT Hello, We have this gap (see photo) under our garage door and I'm looking for possible DIY solutions. We've estimated thicker threshold seal but the far right side is about 1" from the ground so it's fairly significant. Next, I looked into those threshold ramps that you can glue to the floor but those get expensive (~200 for 1" height). Aside from jacking up the cement, which I can assume would be expensive, does anyone have any ideas as to the best way to solve this problem on a budget? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 10:48 AM PDT Sorry if not the right sub So essentially, our garage door openers opens our neighbors garage door. Theirs do not open ours. We've reset our garage door and remote, but their garage door still opens. They are trying to make it our problem, but I don't see what else we can do at this point. They have come over a couple times to complain about our garage door opener. Next time they come over, I think I'm going to tell them it's their problem, not ours. Or, If anyone could shed some light on what the problem might be, that would be great. [link] [comments] |
| Handyman service fees? Is a $95 trip fee plus $95 an hour reasonable? Posted: 18 Sep 2020 11:37 AM PDT Looking to hire a handyman in my area and the going rate seems to $95 to $100 an hour. [link] [comments] |
| How to fill deep cracks with concrete? (Los Angeles) Posted: 18 Sep 2020 12:06 PM PDT Hi, I have several deep cracks (up to an inch deep) where our concrete floor meets a stucco wall, but I'm not sure how to fill it. It's like the concrete floor doesn't extend far enough to reach the wall (see 2nd pic). That's why I don't want to fill the crack with just caulking -- that'd be waaay too much caulk where it should be concrete. Was thinking of using Quickcrete Quick Setting Cement to fill it (it's a 5:1 powder mix that needs water), but I'm stumped as to how to get the stuff into such a narrow crack. I've thought about using a wide-gauge syringe to inject it in. Or should I use foam backer rod and only use the Quickcrete for the superficial top layer? Problem is the Quickcrete instructions say it should be applied at minimum 1/2 inch thick. Thank you in advance for any advice. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 07:39 AM PDT First time refinishing wood and would love some advice on staining stairs. The bottom 5 stairs of my staircase are preexisting oak treads. I used a wood scraper to remove the previous wax stain (I believe it was a wax stain). I then sanded with 80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit. Immediately after we wiped it with swept and wiped with denatured alcohol. Then brushed on an oil based walnut stain. Waited 5 minutes, as directions instructed, before wiping the excess off. The result was random spots being much lighter than the rest. My only conclusion is I didn't sand enough in these spots even though I took my time and felt that I did. Would you agree with my conclusion? Would a prestain help with this? [link] [comments] |
| Replacing vintage thermostat, no lettered labels Posted: 18 Sep 2020 07:07 AM PDT Hi all, I tried googling this question several ways over but I just can't seem to find any documentation or instruction on what contacts are what on the vintage thermostat I'm trying to replace. It's a lever-style thermostat, mostly bronze (brass?), mercury thermometer in front. Upon removing the cover and detaching the unit there's four contacts on the back labelled "1, 2, 3 and 4", the three wires go into contacts 1, 2 and 4. Anyone have a clue which ones are the heat and live or possibly more? It controls a vintage gas furnace (takes up half the basement), I ordered a very basic heat-only non-programmable Honeywell replacement thermostat with digital display, battery powered (so it doesn't need a wire to turn on). The upstairs floor has the same furnace model but they replaced their thermostat with a digital thermostat so I'm attempting to do the same. I tried looking up the model name of the original (Honeywell T802B) but not even Honeywell seems to acknowledge it exists... EDIT: I found a listing for a very similar unit so you can get an idea of what I'm working with: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vintage-Honeywell-Thermostat-Metal-Art-Deco-4-Steampunk-Wall-Mount/193345111719?hash=item2d044446a7:g:EGoAAOSwZwleRvTn UPDATE: I have installed the new thermostat after determining wires 1+2 turn the furnace on/off, wire #4 was left at the wayside since I don't have testing equipment to see if it's a proper C wire or not (might actually be ground since the old system had you touching bare metal to adjust temps). This thing turns the furnace on/off perfectly fine in this configuration so I'll keep it as is [link] [comments] |
| Advice on Gutters - Leaf guards Posted: 18 Sep 2020 06:12 AM PDT Our 33yr. old home needs it's original gutters replaced. The seams leak and they over pour in heavy rain. Had a local guy (North of Detroit) come out and at first I was open minding but then he went into full sales mode with his demo props and "guess the price" bit. By the time he left we'd agreed on hiring him and gave him a small deposit, but I was so mad all night that we canceled the next morning. If he had just given me a price I probably wouldn't have had such a problem with his sales process. But that left me with a bunch of questions I'd like some advice on before having another guy (or gal) out. These are seamless aluminum gutters made on site, which make sense, but I need to hire a company that specializes in that because we have some long runs. Guy measured 75' in the front and 77' in the back (different?). Works out roughly to 50+25 each side because the section over the garage is elevated a few feet higher. The guy had 3 "bits" - 6" K style rather than 4", framed mounting screws instead of the long nails and an integrated leaf guard system that looked like it had sliver slots in it. He made a big deal about the engineering of the leaf covers with his demo props. Then came the kicker; the larger gutters with downspouts and removal of the originals was just under $2K. I was figuring $1200-1500, but that's fine. The bigger capacity and the premium mounts probably account for the difference. What really surprised me is that the leaf guards were an additional $1300. So $3300 for both. His fancy leaf guards are 40% of the total job!? So, some basic questions: Leaf guards on straight gutters. Good investment? Over priced gimmick? Why so much? 6" vs 4" seems logical. Any opinions? If the gutters overflow in heavy rain it makes sense that higher capacity will move more water, right? Or is this just an upsell? Sales techniques - guy sets appointment around dinner time presumably so both husband and wife are present. Then he's half an hour late ro the minute. We haven't eaten so were hungry too. After walking around the house and making measurements the guy gets out his props to invoke a string of yes responses and works to the close, but then plays guess the price games. He also didn't wear a mask during the pandemic which seemed either unprofessional or just arrogant. Thoughts before I do this again with the next guy (or gal)? Definitely going to schedule a morning, not evening. Asks for deposit on the spot (cost me $100). TLDR: Leaf Guards worth 40% of total install price? [link] [comments] |
| How to Get Dark Spots Out of Granite? Posted: 18 Sep 2020 03:12 PM PDT I tried a solution that I saw somewhere about mixing baking soda and water, making a paste, covering the spot, and waiting 24 hours, but that didn't work... Does anyone have any other options? To clarify, I'm talking about the darkening, not the red spots. [link] [comments] |
| Anyone know how to get a fan to stop shaking and rattling? Posted: 18 Sep 2020 10:33 PM PDT My bedroom ceiling fan shakes and makes an extremely irritating rattling/clicking noise and I've never known how to stop that. Do I need to tighten some nuts or does it need WD40 or is there some other hack? Edit: added "ceiling fan" [link] [comments] |
| Russian Roulette with Dryer... suggestions/input requested Posted: 18 Sep 2020 03:38 PM PDT So I went to clean my dryer vent for the first time and discovered the bottom four feet or so are made out of (damaged) white vinyl. Which is not fire safe. Then I realized I cannot find the external vent termination. Also not good news. The laundry room is in the middle of the house so I expected to fine a roof vent but nothing in the area. I suspect it may terminate in the very small roof crawl space but it's hard to navigate to confirm. I am overwhelmed and conflicted. I am tempted to tear out the drywall and a little of the laundry room ceiling to 'explore' and try to determine if I can do the replacement myself- but if the vent does terminate in the crawl space I will need to call a contractor to cut/install a roof vent. I don't want to create a big demo mess only to end up hiring a contractor that had a better process. Would a contractor end up ripping out the wall/ceiling too or do they have some better process that would feed the new duct with less demo? Any advice or input greatly appreciated. Anyone see a dryer that was just venting into the crawl space or a wall? [link] [comments] |
| Where do I find dark gray external flat paint (dark base) for shed siding? Posted: 18 Sep 2020 08:05 PM PDT Stopped by several Home Depots and Lowes in Northern Virginia to find that none of them had dark enough flat base in stock to mix into a Charcoal/Dark Gray external flat color. Only white base that limited in how dark of a gray can mix into. We were hoping to use the dark gray for painting the external siding of our shed and home to contrast the white trims and frames of the doors and windows. Any idea where to buy the dark gray flat base (Glidden, Behr any brand)? Thanks in advance [link] [comments] |
| Should I get a ducted range hood fan with a top duct or a back wall duct? Posted: 18 Sep 2020 09:57 AM PDT I need to buy and install a ducted range hood and some of them have a top exhaust port and some have an exhaust port on the back wall of the range hood. Is one more common than the other? I want to make sure the hole I place in my kitchen wall will remain adaptable for any future range hood replacements. One will require me to put a hole through my cabinet above the range hood and the other hole would be directly behind the range hood. I have yet to make the hole in the wall. E - the wall the duct will be on is an exterior wall. So the hole would go from duct through a wall and right on out to outside. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 04:52 AM PDT I do maintenance at an apartment complex. I do not have the option to buy more expensive caulk. They buy DAP bath and tub caulk. I have done maybe 20 tubs since starting here and i still have trouble getting hte hang of it. I have tried various tools but i always end up wasting a lot of material in the process. I always scrape and sand off the old before applying new. Also within a few months this new kind always cracks and breaks away from the tub and starts to get moldy. I am assuming this is not suppose to happen so quickly?Is it the quality of the caulk or my inexperience doing it? [link] [comments] |
| Does a foundation drain need to exit to daylight? Or is a pop up emitter drain OK? Posted: 18 Sep 2020 07:13 PM PDT My house was built with a foundation drain that connects to a pop up drain emitter that leads down to the edge of the property line. After that area has been very muddy recently long after it rained, I dug up the emitter and discovered the builders used duct tape to make the connection and the tape ended up plugging the weep hole on the bottom. The emitter is also not following the downslope grade so some water catches around it instead of flowing down. I already removed the duct tape and made a temporary trench to drain the system. So I am thinking of two options. I can fix up the existing emitter or I can just extend the pipe straight to daylight and get rid of the emitter entirely. Any thoughts? [link] [comments] |
| Is expensive paint primer worth it? Posted: 18 Sep 2020 12:26 PM PDT Going to be taking a couple light latex walls to medium-dark, and then also re-doing I believe water based glossy trim (gotta check the can of paint) and panelling from a beige to very dark. The paint is going to Benjamin Moore regal select or Ben, only the trim will be semi gloss, the rest will be eggshell. Do I need to get expensive primer? I know I'll need a tinted primer but would something at homedepot do the job? I assume 2 coats of paint is happening no matter what. Thanks! edit: Just wanted to add, Kilz and Zinsser would be a homedepot/ the cheaper option to me [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 06:26 PM PDT I live in Canada and am building a new entrance/mudroom from my garage. My garage is finished but unheated, completely taped and mudded. I popped into the attic to run electrical and realized there won't be any vapour barrier in the ceiling. Should I put it in? I have blown in insulation, can I move that out of the way and move it back? Im putting a potlight in the ceiling so it's currently a hole to insulation. TIA Edit: taped and mudded* [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 06:18 PM PDT Alright I hope this is the right place. We have a screened in patio in New Orleans. My FIL gave us a string of those trendy LED hanging lights, but they are heavy, not like Christmas lights, but heavy duty extension cord and regular lightnbulbs. The ceiling is textured FRP, we tried outdoor command hooks and they lasted 6 hours or so. I tried loctite weatherproof silicone to hold the hooks up, it lasted 8 hours. We thought about liquid nails but do not want something that we will never be able to remove, screws or anything that damages the ceiling is out of the question. Anyone have experience with adhesives onto FRP? Other solutions? [link] [comments] |
| Who should I reach out to get a rim joist replaced Posted: 18 Sep 2020 05:45 AM PDT Found this damage https://imgur.com/9DSiZYK in my crawlspace. The water is leaking from outside where the deck meets the vinyl sliding. I'm a first time homeowner and not sure which type of technician I need to be searching for. Not sure if this a normal handyman fix type. Please help. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 18 Sep 2020 08:11 PM PDT So we just bought our first house (YAY!), we are looking at painting the basement. We are not fully sure if they smoked in there (the ceiling is yellowed) or if it is from age. The short version of it is that we are working on a budget (who isn't?). I understand that kilz is one of the go to's for primer and sealer. The big question is this, will Kil Original Alkyd Primer-sealer work over top the current paint, regardless if it is Oil or Latex based? I know latex can go over oil, but oil should not go over latex. I want to make sure that we are doing this right and not throwing money away by doing things wrong. [link] [comments] |
| Replaced doors. Did I mess up? Posted: 18 Sep 2020 05:56 PM PDT Recently went through my house and replaced all the old, hollow doors with updated solid-core. After getting them planed down, chiseling in hinge spots and installing, I started to read that I should've used three hinges. Old doors only used two and the jambs only have two spots mortised in. Do I need to go back and add a third hinge mortise to jambs and then doors as well? How difficult is this process? Apparenlty bowing can be an issue. How quickly should I expect to see this arise? Would a third hinge straighten them back out? Old doors were extremely light weight whereas the new ones weigh about 50 pounds. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Edit: Used new hinges with three inch screws. Each hinge is weighted for 50 pounds so combined strength is twice that of the door. [link] [comments] |
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