Home Improvement: Another reason not to buy a flip: Meth contamination |
- Another reason not to buy a flip: Meth contamination
- What do you think are the biggest factors in making a home as energy efficient, low maintenance, and comfortable as possible?
- Do we inspect the vanity and tub before the delivery company leaves?
- Hot water runs out in upstairs bathroom after a few minutes. Literally everything is new.
- How to save a laminate floor that is wet underneath?
- Insulating garage attic
- What’s the R value of that old school 1900’s straw/grass insulation and should I replace it or leave it?
- How common is it for dirt to be trapped between the carpet and the carpet pad?
- A painting question! I have a painter coming in the morning.
- Saw another post about buying a first home, and got curious
- What do you guys think of my curb appeal plan?
- Lights in basement, flush mounted cans painted black
- Help with unused outlets and cables in bedroom
- Uneven concrete slab subfloor suggestions
- Repairing dent in drywall ceiling
- Planning out sub panel capacity
- About to stain hardwood floors, read too many internet horror stories. Is it really as bad as it sounds?
- Replacing stair treads, but can't find starter step in the wood we are using
- Question about a box that a ceiling fan is mounted to
- How to replace this threshold?
- Buying a first home questions on sump pump
- I made a drywall repair mistake by applying a skim coat directly over the torn drywall paper. I forgot to seal/Guardz the tear first. What do I need to do tix fix my mistake?
- Cracked tile in kitchen
- Repairing hole in baseboard/trim
| Another reason not to buy a flip: Meth contamination Posted: 14 Sep 2020 11:20 AM PDT https://denver.cbslocal.com/2020/07/13/littleton-house-contaminated-meth/ Was cruising redfin for RE today like I always do and pop into a listing for this house and see the description and disclosure of meth remediation... Based on the buyers story of finding a completely trashed utility space, complete with a mattress and meth pipe, and an additional meth pipe in the yard.... I am betting the flipper either a. knew there was possibly meth or b. was the typical flipper get in get out, do nothing extra (like clean out the trash from a crawlspace), if they missed the fucking meth pipes in the utility room and backyard, what else was done soo poorly? Really hope the law lands on the buyers side, I could only imagine what hell they must be going through. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Sep 2020 08:52 AM PDT |
| Do we inspect the vanity and tub before the delivery company leaves? Posted: 14 Sep 2020 08:37 PM PDT Basically the title says it all, lol. My partner and I are doing a bathroom remodel and ordered a new vanity and freestanding tub. The delivery date is scheduled but we were wondering if we will be able to inspect the vanity/tub prior to the delivery company leaving in case we find an issue with it and then can refuse the delivery. Is that an "okay" and normal thing to do or is it just easier/less awkward to make a return to the company layer? [link] [comments] |
| Hot water runs out in upstairs bathroom after a few minutes. Literally everything is new. Posted: 14 Sep 2020 02:38 PM PDT I am in the final days of a big home renovation that included a total bathroom renovation on our second floor. For a bit of background, before the renovation that shower would turn cold after a few minutes of use. I had a plumber come take a look and he said it had to the do with the faucet in the shower. He said it was really old and didn't regulate temperatures well. We were about to start our big renovation soon after so we didn't worry too much about it. Well here we are with a brand new bathroom and the problem persists. We have a new hot water heater as of January and every single pipe from the shower head to that water heater has been replaced. We can run our downstairs shower over and over. We have never run out of hot water. After running the bath for a few minutes in the new shower the water could at best be describe as lukewarm. My contractor is going to take a look at it tomorrow but I don't understand how this could still be happening. Anyone have any thoughts? [link] [comments] |
| How to save a laminate floor that is wet underneath? Posted: 14 Sep 2020 10:26 PM PDT Norway, Europe I installed a small room inside my garage in June, and added laminate flooring to the floors. The click together type. I use the room for my home brewery. It is usually a very dry experience, since I have hoses going every which way and triple check to ensure all liquids go to where they are supposed to go. Now, yesterday I discovered that one of my buckets have a tiny leak, and has leaked out onto the refridgerator top, and down into the laminate flooring for the last two days. About 2-3 liters of water were trapped between the floor and the plastic underneath(in Norway we call it moisture barrier). There is moisture barrier going all over the floor, taped together and going 3-5cm up on the wall on all sides. Underneath it is concrete. I checked and the water is trapped between the plastic and floor boards. Some of the edges of the floor were hard to click together (due to two different lock types, as the company had made changes to the locks on a new release) and I managed to squeeze water through there and dry with a towel. There is also an edge near the wall where I came up short with laminate where I could squeeze up water. Could this at all be saved, and in that case what do I do? Right now it does not seem too bad. I only see visible damage on like three boards.. the rest of them are tight sealed. https://www.instagram.com/p/CFIQ-hklagX/?igshid=18qbs5ouxadnb [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Sep 2020 08:44 PM PDT Hello, I am from a climate where we have hot humid summers (+30c) and super cold winters (-30c or below). My garage walls, doors and windows are winter ready but the attic was never insulated. What are my options to insulate the attic without ripping down the drywall? I have access to the attic and there is no vapor barrier. I am fairly certain I need vapor barrier in my climate. I installed a powerful heater last winter and put insulation between the joists but still ended up with an ice dam on my roof. How can I avoid this problem and do the job properly? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Sep 2020 06:16 PM PDT I just bought a fourplex (yay!) in Minneapolis, Minnesota and and converting the beautiful 1-bedroom units to 2-bedrooms. This involved taking out a window to make it egress. Now that my wall is open, I found this really old Insulation. My husband wants to leave it and keep it. I, however, want to pull a Nicole Curtis and cut out access holes near the top of all my wall cavities (16" apart) in the rest of the home and blow in cellulose. My sheet rocker starts in two weeks. Reddit folks, is it worth the time and money to cut holes every 16" and blow insulation? Or should I leave it be and just reinsulate the open wall? I have boilers/steam heat, if that matters. Building is circa 1907. Tagging album after publish Edit: photos here: https://imgur.com/gallery/FwNraAx Edit: clarity [link] [comments] |
| How common is it for dirt to be trapped between the carpet and the carpet pad? Posted: 14 Sep 2020 07:09 PM PDT I just moved into an apartment. When I vacuum, lots of dirt and fibers end up in the vacuum canister. I haven't been able to run the vacuum and not get a bunch of dirt and fibers. I've run it on the same spot for multiple minutes and it still pulls up stuff. I'm wondering if it's pulling dirt up from below the actual carpet. I haven't pulled up the carpet to check. The property manager doesn't seem to keen on pulling it up to have a look. I'm guessing the carpet is 4-6 years old. It is the cheap low-end apartment carpet. It probably wasn't vacuumed very well in the past. Carpet pad seems pretty thin too. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| A painting question! I have a painter coming in the morning. Posted: 14 Sep 2020 06:40 PM PDT Help?! I have a painter coming in the morning. I've bought the paint- from his suggestions. I've moved all the furniture at least 3 feet from the wall, at his request. I even removed all the switch covers. But! Was I supposed to spackle little dents or spots?? I don't have outright holes anywhere...He didn't say anything about me doing that! He would have said that right? Thanks in advance! * I cross posted this in dadforaminute, but no traction. Kinda getting nervous! [link] [comments] |
| Saw another post about buying a first home, and got curious Posted: 14 Sep 2020 10:54 AM PDT There was a post on my r/homeimprovement front page today, and it was a person asking about a house on a corner lot, and whether or not it was a good buy. They had a couple of things they wanted to do, and the comments were great. They explained why it might be harder to sell, and some of the pros and cons of that type of home. I was wondering, what kind of things have you all learned from your home purchasing adventures? My wife and I are looking to buy next year and I'm very inexperienced at this. For instance, never thought about a corner lot on a busy street impacting whether families with children would want to buy it. Those little tips are super helpful to me, and I would love to know any other things you all might think of that would help us along the way. I checked the rules and I think this is acceptable here, but my apologies if it isn't! Some examples of things I would love to know: [link] [comments] |
| What do you guys think of my curb appeal plan? Posted: 14 Sep 2020 12:58 PM PDT In terms of aesthetics, I think the outside is the least nice part of my house. I've pushed back doing any major changes to it simply because I've been focusing on the improvements inside first. Now I'm getting ready to consider what I would do to the outside so I came up with a plan. Here is how it looks like today and how it would look like with my ideas. I'll have a couple quotes on the exterior paint, to be done professionally. I'd paint the front door and garage door some kind of bright orange. Ideally I would replace the front door with a more modern one. The privacy fence is something I've seen in a couple houses in my area and also on Pinterest. I'm not sure how high and how wide to make it. The large numbers would be a nice modern touch as well. At last I can probably DIY the shiplap hardwood over the existing stucco with a few furring strips. What do you guys think? Anything more complicated or simpler than I'm thinking? Am I missing anything? [link] [comments] |
| Lights in basement, flush mounted cans painted black Posted: 14 Sep 2020 07:15 PM PDT We are finishing up our basement and putting can lights up and leaving the ceiling unfinished and painted black. What I've done is cut 1/2" plywood in 14 1/2" (x) 14 1/2" squares and then put a hole in the middle for the can. The plan is to have the can on top of the wood and mount it in between the beams of the ceiling for a flush mount, hiding the majority of the can housing. Thoughts on securing them up there? I was thinking of nailing them in through the beams, but then what about metal brackets with flat or l-shaped to hold the wood in place... I'm undecided so I figured I'd ask here and see what you all think. [link] [comments] |
| Help with unused outlets and cables in bedroom Posted: 14 Sep 2020 07:13 PM PDT We just moved into a new house and started by revamping the master bedroom. We're replacing all the outlets and covers since they were all painted on and dated looking. There are also some cords that I don't think we'll be using. They're all kind of an eyesore, so I'm wondering what's possible in terms of removal/disguising them. 1.) 4 prong outlet which I think is phone line related? Can it be removed and covered up somehow? 4-Prong 2.) Coaxial cable tucked under outlet, not sure where it leads. Coaxial 3.) 2 coaxial cables in their own outlet that wire up through the closet behind the wall. 2 Coaxials Thank you! [link] [comments] |
| Uneven concrete slab subfloor suggestions Posted: 14 Sep 2020 08:25 PM PDT We have bought a 1980 ranch style home with a concrete subfloor, we are laying engineered hardwood in about 1600 of the 1800 square feet of the house. Problem when we got to laying the hardwood the concrete slab was very "wavy" and uneven, although no cracks anywhere, it is wavy enough so to rip up the engineered hardwood that had the entire weekend to hold with glue buckets on top, we were using a high end glue and it still wouldn't hold over some of the "valleys." Would our best course of action be to lay down a moisture barrier sealer, 3/4" plywood as a new subfloor, then to glue the engineered wood to the subfloor? Advice is much appreciated. [link] [comments] |
| Repairing dent in drywall ceiling Posted: 14 Sep 2020 06:11 PM PDT My friend gashed her ceiling installing a stripper pole which left an 8" dent. It has a texture to it. Could I build up compound and then level it off? Would I have to cut out a square? Which product should I use in this scenario? [link] [comments] |
| Planning out sub panel capacity Posted: 14 Sep 2020 08:20 PM PDT I am trying to plan out panel sizes for upcoming electrical upgrades. I currently have a 200 amp load center, with a 150 amp breaker feeding a 150 amp fuse panel. I need to have the fuse panel replaced and updated with a breaker box, but I'd also like to runs sub panel to the garage. I'm having trouble finding 50 amp panels anywhere though. I thought I saw somewhere that your breakers can add up to double the feed, so as long as two sub panels and included breakers are less than 400 it's good? In theory I can have a 150 amp panel in the house loaded with 300 amps worth of breaker and a 100 amp panel in the garage loaded with 100 amps worth of breakers? My area (nebraska) uses the 2017 nec code. At the very least if I cant run it myself, I'd like to know close to what I need so I know what to request from the pros [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Sep 2020 06:07 PM PDT I'm trying to do more home improvement stuff myself because I've had terrible luck with every project I've hired for. It's been awful. I've tried Angie's List, big companies, small local companies, personal referrals, and I've regretted every single one. So I'm trying to do stuff myself now. I'm putting down hardwood in the bedroom. A neighbor did the installation because they've done it before and have done a lot of renovations on their home and had the tools. I'm wanting to do the stain, though, since that's the part of the job that won't require power tools. From reading online it sounds super simple: wipe the wood down with mineral oil to remove the dust, stain it following the grain of the wood in 1-2ft increments, wipe off excess, don't work yourself into a corner. When I bought the stain they sold me a bunch of rags and said I'd want to use those since it's an oil stain. I've stained much smaller projects before and it all came out okay. But I also found a couple "helpful" sites that gave a tutorial and then photos of all the ways people did it wrong to scare you into not staining your own floors. It looks like most of the problems occur with sanding, though, and worst-case scenario.... we resand and try again, right? Sure it'd be a lot of work, but it's not like I'd have to live with my shame? For anyone that's done this before: does that about cover it? Is it really as hard as it's made out to sound? Am I crazy for attempting this on my own? Photo of the unfinished floor. I've swept and shop-vacced. [link] [comments] |
| Replacing stair treads, but can't find starter step in the wood we are using Posted: 14 Sep 2020 12:22 PM PDT So we redid our downstairs hardwood flooring, and want to do our stairs in the same hardwood. The vendor makes the typical accessory options (transitions, bullnose, treads) but they don't seem to have a "stater step", it looks like this. The left hand side is where the newel post attaches. I can find starter steps and starter risers online, but of course not in the wood that we want to use. Anyone else run into this issue? The only thing I can think of right now, is to create that starter step but make the left hand side square instead of round. That way you could use the bullnose to make that from regular treads. Appreciate any suggestions. [link] [comments] |
| Question about a box that a ceiling fan is mounted to Posted: 14 Sep 2020 07:41 PM PDT |
| How to replace this threshold? Posted: 14 Sep 2020 07:13 PM PDT Hey guys. This is on a gouse we bought so sorry for how nasty it is, we're cleaning and fixing the room up now. This threshold is loose and the rubber is ripped and I'd like to replace it. Any idea how? Not sure how easy or hard it'd be. What do I look for at lowes? Do I need a certain height? Anything to connect it to the tile? It's on concrete to the exterior. I appreciate the help! [link] [comments] |
| Buying a first home questions on sump pump Posted: 14 Sep 2020 10:49 PM PDT Hello, I had the inspection done today, everything looked good except for the roof ~2-3 years of life left. Sump pump seems to be good, but never seen this type of a sump pump before. Sump pump was there but I couldn't see the pit? it was all closed off (unlike the pit style sump pump) Does anyone know what this is? I wanted to put a battery powered back up sump pump and came across this. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Sep 2020 10:49 PM PDT Should I cut out the areas that I skimmed over or stick with the skim/sand routine until I've built up a thick enough surface to paint? Of note, just after my first skim coat, some of the paper areas that were covered are starting to get a bit wavy. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Sep 2020 06:54 PM PDT Hi all. I have long cracks in the tile in our kitchen. We moved in about 3 years ago, and am deciding on doing a full kitchen reno or just fixing the floor for now, and redoing the kitchen in a few more years. I have several vertical and horizons cracks in the kitchen tile, they are 8' x 4' exactly. So this makes me think there is an issue with the subfloor, either they weren't glued, or maybe how the underlayment sits on the subfloor? I have posted a picture. The joists run perpendicular to the long cracks. Thanks for any help or insight you May have. [link] [comments] |
| Repairing hole in baseboard/trim Posted: 14 Sep 2020 06:45 PM PDT Just wanted to get some advice from a person. I have a hole in the trim. It was created by a drill bit coming from outside the room. If this were just dry wall I would either patch it or fill it with some spackle. I'm not quite sure what to do here. My instinct is to use something like wood filler. Patching it seems a little overkill given the hole's size... Hoping that someone can offer their 2 cents. Edit: link fix, its prob 2cm at its deepest not including the hole. [link] [comments] |
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