Home Improvement: How to choose colour temperature for your lights |
- How to choose colour temperature for your lights
- What's your favorite brand/type of paint to use for interior walls?
- Having trouble deciding between 3000k and 4000k lighting for new home
- Have any of you bought and assembled a harbor freight pull behind utility trailer?
- Why do US toilets and sewers accept toilet paper while in Mexico, China etc. toilet paper is disposed in a bin, not in the toilet?
- Old very lived in farm house we are trying to repair.
- How do I remove these bolts on my toilet seat to change it with a new one?
- Is My Apartment Safe?
- Just got a gate installed, propped it open with cinderblocks because they didn't include anything to hold it open. It acted as a large sail against the wind and the 200+lb gate fell all the way out. Are these joints normal? NV
- Not sure what this adapter is for thats in my attic...
- New Heat Pump?
- At a loss... am I chipping away old grout or old caulk?
- What to do with extra laminate flooring?
- Best budget circular saw
- Is there a way to install a bidet for this type of toilet seat?
- Looking for security camera ideas.
- Thoughts on condensation on windows with humidifier? Vancouver, BC. Worse on window frame (metal)
- Sistering Floor Joist
- Garage door built with intentional gaps? (Houston, TX)
- Trouble removing and aluminum window sash
- How do I turn off water to toilet? Trying to install Bidet but valve doesn’t turn.
- Found water damage to bathroom subfloor during reno.
- contractor installing new shower - on a scale of 1 to 100, how much should i be concerned?
- Shed foundation, am I on the right track?
| How to choose colour temperature for your lights Posted: 16 Mar 2020 10:18 AM PDT Posts regularly seem to come up asking what colour temperature you should choose, what's the "best" etc. There are a lot and I mean A LOT of responses every time that are either partially correct, flat out wrong, or right without understanding why. The correct answer is surprisingly simple. There are other considerations, but above all: you should choose the colour temperature for your lights depending on the light level (brightness) you are trying to achieve with those lights on. There is a relationship between the two captured in the Kruithof Curve (linked below) which tells you what temperature to use for what light level. Don't know what level? Add the lumen outputs of your lights together, divide by the floor area that's it in lux. It will be less due to losses but more or less. Now you can use the curve. Enjoy! Hope this helps. In most homes 2700k (bedrooms/side lights) or 3000k (main lights/living spaces) is generally right. 4000K on worktops. Source: Am professional lighting designer [link] [comments] |
| What's your favorite brand/type of paint to use for interior walls? Posted: 16 Mar 2020 04:37 AM PDT In this down time we have right now, I'm looking to paint our bedrooms and don't want to cheap out on the wall/ceiling paint. Any suggestions on brand/type of paint to use? *I'll be painting over existing paint on drywall Edit: Wow!! Thank you to the community for all the responses! There's a wealth of knowledge and advice being shared in this thread. [link] [comments] |
| Having trouble deciding between 3000k and 4000k lighting for new home Posted: 16 Mar 2020 05:23 AM PDT We just bought a new home (brand new build) that came with a ton of can lighting. The can lights it came with are 3000k. A friend of mine had some 4000k downlights and he gave me some. I put these in the kitchen the light is a pure, crisp white light. It looks extremely clean and modern. Makes the 3000k look way too yellow. I'm thinking about changing all my lights to 4000k which would include livingrooms and bedrooms. Do you think this would be too harsh? It a pure white and I don't see any hint of blue so I'm thinking not, but I'm still hesitant. [link] [comments] |
| Have any of you bought and assembled a harbor freight pull behind utility trailer? Posted: 16 Mar 2020 11:08 AM PDT I ask, because I see they have a kit to build a 48inch x 96inch utility trailer. I was curious if anyone had built one of this size. Reason I ask is because with those dimensions, I'm curious if plywood will fit flush inside it when picking up wood from Lowe's or if 2x4x8's can fit inside the trailer without hanging out the back. The optimist in me believes they designed the trailer with this in mind, and there's a little bit of wiggle room. The realist in my knows that life is cruel and unfair. https://www.harborfreight.com/1720-lb-Capacity-48-in-x-96-in-Super-Duty-Folding-Trailer-62647.html Trailer in question. Do note that it has post clips on all sides so you can build wooden railing for it. I imagine once that's installed and runners are installed inside, that perhaps 2x4x8s and 4x8 pieces of plywood can simply set down inside of it without being propped up on the back end like long cuts do in the beds of trucks. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Mar 2020 05:30 PM PDT |
| Old very lived in farm house we are trying to repair. Posted: 16 Mar 2020 07:30 AM PDT First time using imgur so I hope I did it right! https://imgur.com/a/wcdCA35 Yes the house is needing a lot more than TLC and I understand that. Just trying to figure out how far we have to go with it. My parents have been very poor and I'm trying to help fix up their house, we've redone 4 rooms and this is the 5th with 3 rooms and a hallway left. So this has been a storage room/office/catch all at my parents. Probably the oldest room in the 120+ yr old house. I'm moving home and we knew there was a problem with the stairs and hoped to jack them back up, possibly redo drywall (lots of cracks and big holes)...but now we've found 2 of the corners are sinking in the room (the red squares in the pics) My dad says theres only about a 1ft crawl space under this room and he believes he has to rip out at least half the floor if not all of it and replace it. The joists are most likely rotted out from the little he can see. My mom and I are afraid as he is barely a handy man, but we cant afford to bring someone in to do it. I know little to nothing about floor supports but I would love to save the original hardwood floors as we've managed to do with the rest of the downstairs. My dad also believes the stairs and the partition wall have to come down and be rebuilt. From what I see it just needs jacked up and supported in a few spots to stop the sag. [link] [comments] |
| How do I remove these bolts on my toilet seat to change it with a new one? Posted: 16 Mar 2020 06:58 PM PDT They look like there's no way to unscrew them? There's no but on the underside of the bowl either. Has anyone encountered types of fasteners? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Mar 2020 09:13 AM PDT I'm not sure this is the appropriate place for this post, but I'm hoping someone can give me and my fiancee some advice. On Friday our apartment flooded with sewage and we feel like the rental company might not be handling this in an entirely professional manner. At 2pm on Friday, my fiancee noticed that the bathrooms were filling with water. She had an online meeting coming up so I took over. I turned the water off to the toilets thinking that's where it may have been coming from. Then I called maintenance. They showed up very quickly and called a plumber. Two plumbers show up and sent an auger (plugged into our outlets) down the vent cap outside our living room. About an hour later they move further down the line, open an access hatch, and send an auger that way. It's now been 3 hours and a maintenance worker came and finally shut the water off to the building. The whole time, for 3 hours, our apartment slowly filled with sewage. It seemed to mostly stop after they turned the water off. About two hours later, the plumbers had called in backup. They ended up securing water to the whole apartment complex; 5 separate buildings lost water. In total, after 5 hours (now about 7:30pm), the main line back up was cleared and our bathtub and shower drained. And this whole time we didn't have access to toilets, showers, or our kitchen. I asked the leasing office several times for accommodations, but they refused. They even suggested that we just take our pets for a hike, to which I replied "You try taking two cats on a hike". Unfortunately, the cleaning company wasn't dispatched until 2 hours after I called maintenance (5:30pm; I asked the cleaning guy when he got there). Because of traffic, they didn't show up until nearly 8pm. A supervisor from the rental company had come in to look around, but he spent no more than 5 minutes taking pictures and didn't seem too keen on answering our questions; he seemed to avoid saying if the water was sewage or not. He did say that the cleaning crew would only take about half an hour and that the apartment would be safe to stay in after that. All of which sounded pretty far-fetched to me. Cleaning crew shows up, vacuums up all the water, and removes the carpet padding that was directly affected. He then laid the carpet back down on the bare concrete (1st floor apartment) and continued working. My fiancee and I didn't actually see them clean the carpet. We were outside talking with neighbors at the time. When I asked, the cleaner said they did what's called a "biowash", which we learned was wiping the bathroom floors and tubs with pine-sol and a product called metaclean. He also said they washed the carpet and sprayed an antimicrobial on the baseboards (how much of the carpet they washed and which baseboards were sprayed, I have no idea). They set up two giant fans and a huge dehumidifier before leaving. Fiancee and I didn't feel safe staying, especially with two cats and a dog, so we packed up and headed to her brother's. Fast forward to today: We just got off the phone with the property manager and said that the cleaning crew had just come through and did moisture checks after the equipment had been running all weekend. They rearranged the fans, but that was about it. Property manager did say that both bathroom vanities will be replaced, new padding put down, and carpet stretched and put back down and washed again (if it was even done the first time). He also said that they will clean the carpets baseboard-to-baseboard. Now here's the kicker. I went through the apartment yesterday to get mail and packages. The cleaning crew never pulled the fridge out to clean, didn't clean around the water heater or adjacent closet space (which is now crusty and smells gross), didn't pull the washer and dryer out to clean the laundry closet, and they didn't check/clean a closet in the master bedroom; all of which are spaces that were directly affected by the sewage flood. The property manager also couldn't tell me where the sewage came from since my toilet and tubs never overflowed. He also said that the vanities would be replaced because of water damage, and the kitchen cabinets likely wouldn't because they weren't damaged by the water; but I tried explaining to him that we are also worried about the sewage that hasn't been treated that is now between the walls and under the cabinets. He didn't give me a clear answer or plan to remedy these problems. My fiancee and I are doing our best to get entirely new carpets throughout the apartment. We also want someone to check for sewage between the walls and under our kitchen cabinets. We'll demand that the untreated spots gets attention, of course. But we also want our rent prorated since we don't think it's safe for us to be there, and our electric bill paid covering the days they had the auger and drying equipment hooked up to our outlets. We can't physically be in the apartment anyway because we're both teachers and our school system has started online classes which requires us to constantly be in online video meetings. We can't do this job with fans, dehumidifiers, workers, and construction going on. Can anyone give us any advice? Is the rental company doing what they should be? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Mar 2020 08:44 PM PDT picture of joint before we got the top "L" back in the hole I'm pretty sad about this. The entire gate fell out and slightly bent the joint, so when we got it back in, it didn't latch without some force. The gate is huge (120" long) and they didn't include anything to hold it open (my old gate had little pieces of rebar that slid into the ground to hold it open/closed). We held it open with some cinderblocks at the base, and when the wind picked it up, the leverage of the cinderblocks knocked the gate up and out of the holes and crashing down. Have only had it 2 days. I don't know if these tiny joints with nothing stopping them from flying up and out are normal. There are two on one side and just a latch on the other side. The latch side can be pushed/bent out at the bottom because the gate is 84" inches tall and 120" wide with only a small latch holding that entire side. Contacted the installer and he didn't seem to care at all... told me to contact the State if I want to file a complaint against him... I feel so sad. Any advice is appreciated. [link] [comments] |
| Not sure what this adapter is for thats in my attic... Posted: 16 Mar 2020 07:15 PM PDT In my attic, next to my light switch, the previous owner has an outlet with this thing plugged in. Looks to be a typical transformer but the end doesnt look normal, like something to plug into some device. Instead its a coax port, with a coax cable plugged in and running way from the outlet. No idea what its connect to. I dont have cable, I have Verizon fios so what do you suppose this could be connected to? And what would you plug a coax cable into a charger for anyway? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Mar 2020 01:54 PM PDT Hi all, looking to replace my existing furnace and HVAC with a heat pump in the coming months and would be interested in some of ya'lls experiences and guidance you might have. I live in central maryland where the low is generally around 20 degrees in the coldest part of the winter. I have forced air oil right now and AC attached. I'm getting multiple quotes of course, but dont know the ins and outs of heat pumps yet to know whats good. My price per kwH is about 12 cents right now. [link] [comments] |
| At a loss... am I chipping away old grout or old caulk? Posted: 16 Mar 2020 10:51 AM PDT Hey, I keep failing at this simple improvement project. What I thought was old chipped/cracked caulk around my bathtub and up the seams, could actually be grout? It is hard, brittle and if chipped away just turns to dust. From all the videos I have seen on removing caulk and re-applying it looks nothing like that. I have a few questions.
Below is a picture of a cutout in the shower wall to hold shampoo and soap. This is indicative of what is around the base where the tile meets the tub and up the corners/seams of the tile. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments] |
| What to do with extra laminate flooring? Posted: 16 Mar 2020 06:48 PM PDT I redid my downstairs flooring (more like my uncle did my downstairs) and hoped to eventually do my upstairs but eventually decided against it for many reasons. I have a TON of left over laminate sitting in my garage and I can't return it. By a ton, I mean somewhere between a half and a full pallet. I've considered garden beds but I already have a bed and don't want chemicals bleaching. Also no coasters. Ideally I'm looking for an easy project with minimal measuring and cutting. Anyone have any ideas? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Mar 2020 06:45 PM PDT Subject says it all. Going to try to find a used decent circular saw. Any suggestions? [link] [comments] |
| Is there a way to install a bidet for this type of toilet seat? Posted: 16 Mar 2020 08:41 AM PDT I bought a Luxe Bidet but it didn't fit our toilet seat. https://i.imgur.com/7DgZ7di.jpg I was wondering if there is a way to install it? If not then is there a bidet brand which fits this type of toilet seat? We really need this in the coming week because our TPs are running out. Thank you very much for reading !!! [link] [comments] |
| Looking for security camera ideas. Posted: 16 Mar 2020 08:50 PM PDT Recently, our home got egged. Not a huge deal if it's just eggs, I know. My neighbors have had stuff stolen from their front and back yards, and I witnessed some kids break another neighbors window out a few weeks ago. I've got three loud dogs with great teeth... and the honey and I stay strapped, obviously I want to deter and detect anything like a break in. I feel like the egging could be some saying they know when we're home and when we're not. My dog camera from the inside of the house alerted me to the noise. Who has a nice home camera system? Any ideas? I've looked at Arlo Pros a lot but unsure... feels like an important purchase. Any pointers Reddit? [link] [comments] |
| Thoughts on condensation on windows with humidifier? Vancouver, BC. Worse on window frame (metal) Posted: 16 Mar 2020 06:59 PM PDT Bought a hydrometer and room gets to around 30% humidity in winter. Bought a humidifier and pretty easy to get it to 40-50%. Was having a hard/painful time sleeping with how much my nose hurt breathing. It's much better now. Problem now is the condensation. I don't even terribly humidify my room. Even at 40% because at night it gets to 0 degrees celcius, condensation seems easy. Plus the windows/house is like 35 years old. I cracked the window and that helped a bit (humidity goes down), but the window edge is some sort of metal that condenses even worse than the glass. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Mar 2020 06:34 PM PDT I have a badly cracked floor joist. I'd rather use southern yellow pine (SYP) vs Whitewood, only SYP around here is pressure treated. Any problem using treated lumber for an interior joist? Thanks. [link] [comments] |
| Garage door built with intentional gaps? (Houston, TX) Posted: 16 Mar 2020 09:24 AM PDT I live in a one-story with a north-facing garage door, so it doesn't get much sun. I noticed that my garage door has gaps at the bottom (see photo here: https://imgur.com/a/1Xr7Xid). I put up some metal mesh to prevent critters from entry. Any reason why this was built like this? (It's a 20+ year home) Is it important to insulate my garage? And if so, what's the best way to go about this? The gaps are triangular in shape, and the floor is uneven due to some dried concrete. [link] [comments] |
| Trouble removing and aluminum window sash Posted: 16 Mar 2020 09:44 PM PDT |
| How do I turn off water to toilet? Trying to install Bidet but valve doesn’t turn. Posted: 16 Mar 2020 09:34 PM PDT |
| Found water damage to bathroom subfloor during reno. Posted: 16 Mar 2020 11:44 AM PDT Doing a renovation of my half bath and I found some water damage to the plywood subfloor and walls. There's also some mold which was checked out by a professional and classified as not harmful. pics. I wanted to ask you guys what my next steps should be. I was thinking I should cut out the damaged subfloor and replace it while it's exposed. I already started cutting some of the drywall around the water supply line so I'll replace a damaged section of that behind the toilet. What worries me is that the subfloor seemed damp still, so there may still be a leak. It seems to be coming from the supply line so I may replace the valve, too. Does it also seem water is coming from the toilet flange? What's the solution if so? Thanks. [link] [comments] |
| contractor installing new shower - on a scale of 1 to 100, how much should i be concerned? Posted: 16 Mar 2020 05:38 AM PDT we're having a contractor demo our master bath, which had a shower stall and a jetted tub next to it. we're turning the shower stall into a storage closet and the jetted tub area into the new shower stall as it's about twice as big in area. the contractor, "John", has been doing a really good job so far but i'm a little concerned about waterproofing. he's using cement backerboard, then mastic to adhere the ceramic/porcelain tiles.. then, of course, he'll grout and caulk the entire area. a separate contractor, let's call him "Bob", told me he would normally use some additional sort of waterproofing like RedGard or something like that on top of the cement board. i approached John and he said it wasn't necessary. so, how much should I be worried about this new shower enclosure? thanks in advance, TC [link] [comments] |
| Shed foundation, am I on the right track? Posted: 16 Mar 2020 08:49 AM PDT Hello everyone, I'm trying to plan out a shed build, pending on my trip to Town Hall for Zoning and all that. I'm looking to build a 10x20ish shed and I want to make sure my plan for a foundation is good so far. The area is already level, as it is currently occupied by a dilapidated shed. I plan to dig probably a foot or so down, fill with rocks, and plop a deck block on top. Once its all leveled I plan to use 2x4s as the framing for the floor, and I want to use boards instead of plywood so it can support a motorcycle and a ride on mower. Does that sound good so far? Thank you! [link] [comments] |
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