Home Improvement: Friendly Reminder: if you have a contractor working at your house, please don’t leave them alone with no access to a bathroom. |
- Friendly Reminder: if you have a contractor working at your house, please don’t leave them alone with no access to a bathroom.
- Advice on ex butchers shop
- Small Bathroom Remodel!! $700.
- LPT: working near sinks/toilets/showers/drains/washing machines? Cover the drains and close the lids.
- Well water tested positive for harmful bacteria?
- Portable AC Units for window with iron security bars on the inside?
- Tips for Bathtub Refinishing
- Like an IKEA catalog but not just IKEA?
- How are you heating your porch this fall?
- Has anyone seen this type of heating system before?
- How best to store propane tanks outside and protect from elements?
- Suggestions for how to fix tile...
- Safe to have exposed interior framing in humid conditions?
- Dot&Dab plastering advice
- How to clean up dent on wood dining table
- Water bill help/info
- Just bought sealant foam spray, can't get the foam out. Need advice.
- Sunroom senovation, start to finish w/ photos and lots of detail.
- Advice on windows. Security bars AND plantation shutters?
- Am I ready to makeover my room?
- Top-bottom sliding shelf on dry wall
- Connected Single Family Home 1/ Car Garage
- What would cause elevated moisture readings on garage floor ?
- Help! Water pouring throw window during heavy rain!
- Removing Ceramic Tile from Concrete ?
| Posted: 14 Aug 2020 10:27 AM PDT My husband works in the trades and it happens often that a homeowner will leave when he is doing work outside and lock up their house leaving him without access to a bathroom for hours. He usually has to pack up his tools and drive to a gas station which can cause a lot of wasted time. Please just be courteous and remember the contractors we hire have the same needs! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Aug 2020 05:18 AM PDT Hello all, I bought a sandstone house in Scotland built in 1908 a couple of years ago and have been working on restoring it. The house used to be split in to a residential property and a commercial property before being combined into a single residential property a decade ago. Around 40-50 years ago the commercial property operated as a butchers shop. When stripping the gross woodchip wallpaper off of the walls in what was going to be my office, I found that the walls are covered floor to ceiling in white tiles. I ended up stripping and cleaning the wallpaper thinking that it could be quite a cool old feature but unfortunately the tiles are in bad condition and it's turned out to be a pretty uncomfortable place to spend time. The room also has a concrete floor, a false ceiling that's about 1 metre lower than the floor above (no idea what's in this space), one wall that's partially covered in cement (I think this is blocking an old doorway) and a pretty large electrical box with a 3 phase supply and various junction boxes and switches. I don't even really know where to start with this, I'm not sure what I will find under the tiles and there is also the matter of the cement wall and electrical box on top of the tiles as well. My wife is suggesting that we just glue mdf on top and paint it, but I don't think that this is a good long term solution and will just make it harder to improve in the future. Any thoughts or suggestions? Edit: Some pictures of the room and shop front: https://imgur.com/a/rNIfMXp [link] [comments] |
| Small Bathroom Remodel!! $700. Posted: 14 Aug 2020 01:24 PM PDT Hello everyone. Me and my partner tackled on our first bathroom remodel for our house. It was fun and we got it done within three days. It's not a major remodel, we didn't tear down the shower/tub. But everything was updated to our liking. Enjoy these before and after photos/videos. And our progress pics. Thank you and have a great day! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Aug 2020 06:28 PM PDT |
| Well water tested positive for harmful bacteria? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 07:04 PM PDT I'm not sure if this is the right sub for this question. We just moved into a house (somewhat rural I guess) and it's well water out here. I have small kids so I ordered a water safety test off of amazon because as I understand well water is not tested by the county? Anyway the test was okay except it's a little high in nitrates but the bacteria check was not okay. The water here tested positive for harmful bacteria. What do I do? My husband moved in here before us and was here a month drinking the water with no problem. I've been bathing me and both my kids in it without an issue but I held off drinking it or giving it to them until I tested it. We've been drinking bottled and I hate doing that. What should I do??? We're renting until we have enough to buy so we don't exactly think it wise to invest in some high tech water purification system. What are our options? Is it safe to bathe in the water? Has anyone experienced this before and how did you remedy the situation? [link] [comments] |
| Portable AC Units for window with iron security bars on the inside? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:01 PM PDT Anyone know of any small portable AC units that have tubing's that could be slid through iron security bars? The security bars are inside so I would have to slide the tubing between the bars to get the exhaust tubing to the window. The bars are completely screwed in and I don't want to take them out for a variety of reasons. Any other solutions for cooling a single room? I also have a metal screen door that goes outside. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Aug 2020 08:22 PM PDT I have two all-in-one fiberglass bathtub/shower units that are in need of refinishing. After watching a few videos, it seems that with patience and a will to learn, a novice/DIY person can do it. However, I have never done this type of work before and don't want to get in over my head. I also don't want to spend a lot on the project--just enough to be able to pass home inspection to sell the home. Any tips or recommendations are appreciated. Thank you! [link] [comments] |
| Like an IKEA catalog but not just IKEA? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 08:31 AM PDT I might just not know the right words to Google search for, but: I'm thinking of redoing one of our bathrooms but am hopeless when it comes to matching colors, picking out things that "go together," and similar. I like how the IKEA catalog gives you a bunch of sample bathrooms with details on the items involved, costs, and more. But of course, it's just limited to IKEA stuff. What I'd really like is something similar but not limited to IKEA. Maybe I'd see links to Amazon, Lowe's, or whatever for various parts, ideally including non-furniture pieces (e.g. paint colors, flooring types, wall tiles). I don't want to spend the resources for an interior decorator, but I'm absolutely open to choosing someone else's complete vision, adapting it a little for my room, and then buying / installing the various parts. And if that kind of catalog costs something or includes affiliate links, I'm totally OK with that. Does that exist? Is there a name for it? [link] [comments] |
| How are you heating your porch this fall? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 03:57 AM PDT Due to the pandemic, I'm even more interested in extending the usable time of my front porch (5x20) and back deck (12x10). I've been working from home and using these as spots to get out of the house. It gets cold quick here (northern New England). Wife does not want one of those tall, propane fueled patio heaters (nor do I think I have the wall clearances necessary). Can you recommend any weather resistant devices heating devices that will help extend the usable time of my outdoor space? Thank you! [link] [comments] |
| Has anyone seen this type of heating system before? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 07:34 PM PDT This is where the heating system is stored along with laundry detergent. I noticed there are two open pipe type things at lead up and through the house. I am worried this is connected to all of the vents in the house and air is being recirculated. Has anyone has seen this before? There are a total of 3 open pipe type things. [link] [comments] |
| How best to store propane tanks outside and protect from elements? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 07:09 PM PDT I have 3 20# propane tanks (owned, not Blue Rhino) that I can store in the shade, temperate climate year-round. Why 3? Because... PROPANE!I still want to protect them from rain, for example. The ideas I have so far are a) put a heavy-duty garbage bag over them b) keep in extra trash cans and use the trash cans for occasional needs like yard work c) big enough deck box. I know I'll trigger advice on the benefits of not owning or owning... but I already own. I know this isn't a spot-on topic for /r/HomeImprovement, but I think your mindsets are better than grillheads or preppers. [link] [comments] |
| Suggestions for how to fix tile... Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:51 PM PDT Any ideas for what kind of substance would be good to glue these back together? I'm kinda looking for a quick fix, but please lmk if that's not recommended. [link] [comments] |
| Safe to have exposed interior framing in humid conditions? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:46 PM PDT We're remodeling our bathroom and planning to frame in the new ceiling this weekend. It might be a month or more before we get plumbing and electrical wrapped up so we can get it sheet-rocked and finished. In the meantime it would be business as usual in the shower with our untreated Douglas fir ledgers and joists just sitting out in the open. Are there any potential issues with our framing getting steam treated regularly for weeks on end? Our only motivation for doing it right away is checking something off our list and getting the lumber out of the garage. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Aug 2020 03:31 AM PDT Morning everybody! I'll start with a bit of background on my house, as that always seems to help here. It's a 1930's brick built semi in the north of England. I'm currently doing my first 'big' DIY project since we bought it nearly 2 years ago. This has included rewiring my new office, and getting some redecorating done with a custom desk to go in it. It's most definitely what people would call a box room! My question is around plastering. Where I've added sockets, the plaster I cut into has crumbled away. I've replastered the hole (in a fashion...) and will decorate as is for now, but if later on we do decide to decorate again, I'm thinking of going back to brick. If I did dot and dab work, is it possible to use many smaller pieces of plasterboard, or is it only really worth using big sheets? The previous owners left a whole stack of smaller sheets in the attic, which would save me some cash! If its a case that it'll look awful and be really difficult though, I'll just purchase new plaster. Also, once plaster boards are up, and jointed with plaster filler, do they then need a skim plaster, or can you paint straight onto them? Cheers! [link] [comments] |
| How to clean up dent on wood dining table Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:32 PM PDT I accidentally dropped something on my wood dining table. It put a small dent in the wood. You can see the white mark in the link to the image below. Is there anything I can do to "fix" it, or at least make it blend in with the rest of the color? Thanks. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:30 PM PDT Had a bill for 1000 dollars. 800 plus of it for water. Our usual overall bill is around $200. Good idea to contact utility company to request a refund/discount/explanation? Or is that useless and on me to find the leak? Outside hoses, bathrooms, kitchen sink seem fine. Plan to go under the house tomorrow AM. If no leak found, what options do i have? [link] [comments] |
| Just bought sealant foam spray, can't get the foam out. Need advice. Posted: 14 Aug 2020 04:14 AM PDT I just bought a sealant foam spray bottle. I followed the instruction: put the nozzle, shake the bottle, and then press the nozzle, but the foam didn't come out. I looked the inside of bottle tip, there is something that's blocking the tip inside: https://i.imgur.com/e9OtN65.jpg I contacted the seller but he doesn't have a clue too. Is this something like a protective seal that needs to be punctured? Or should I just consider the product to be defective and return it? UPDATE: The seller claimed the bottle is still new and didn't believe it's used product issue. I have decided to return the product. [link] [comments] |
| Sunroom senovation, start to finish w/ photos and lots of detail. Posted: 14 Aug 2020 11:40 AM PDT This is a long one, so get comfy... We're in the middle of renovating our 100 year old house. It needs everything updated. It's been a journey, and I have a lot of photos I've been meaning to put up here for my fellow home improvement enthusiasts to gawk at, but you know how it is; one project is done and it's time to move on to the next one. Who has time to post photos? Well, we decided to hit the sunroom after the roof was done so we an have a nice place to chill while I gut and redo all the common spaces and the kitchen, and I decided I'd actually post this project this time. Don't worry, I'll eventually post everything else, but not anytime soon. So, about the sunroom. The room measures 16'2" x 7½', plus about a 3" x 30" area right in front of the red door. The total cost was $5,926.93, and it took about two months total time to finish, with maybe 14 actual days of work in those two months. My wife and I both work, we have a 7 year old son, a 1 year old dog, and were visited by some family for a few days, and the furniture took 8 days from purchase to delivery, all contributing to the over-all duration of the project. Plus, I took a day here and there to relax. We didn't set a specific budget, but nearly $6k was definitely more than we intended to spend. What set us way over the mark was the furniture, which is a solid 64.02% of the total cost, but we're honestly fine with it. It's very comfortable and we're already spending tons of time in the room relaxing in the sectional. We also furnished it with an extra Ikea Expedit we had, and a 6' x 18" bench I made a few years ago. We intend to use the space as both a place to relax, and a mud room for when we're wet and muddy and don't want to track it into the kitchen or front entry way. I labeled each photo in the album numerically, and I'm going to break-down each one here; what it shows, and what I did to get to that point. I've also added the same descriptions to the photos themselves. The cost of the project includes materials and furniture we needed to purchase only, and does include the cost of any tools, materials, or furniture we already had. I already mentioned the furniture we already had, but the materials include tile/grout sealer, construction adhesive, nails/screws, green Frog Tape, electrical tape, and some of the paint. The tools I used were a drill, impact driver, table saw, Makita multitool, tile saw, air compressor, finish nailer, screw drivers, paint brushes, rollers, and trays, box cutter, electrical pliers, voltage tester, tape measure, square and v-notch trowels, float, sponges, 5 gallon buckets, knee pads, eye and ear protection, and probably some small stuff I'm forgetting which I will likely include in the descriptions as I explain what I did. Before doing anything, I needed to ensure the floor could properly support tile. Thinset and tile adds hundreds of pounds of weight at a minimum, and you shouldn't install it on a floor until you verify it can support it. I considered hiring an engineer for about 5 minutes before crawling under the floor myself. The sunrooms (there's another right above this one, off of a bedroom) were definitely an addition at some point, but they're held up by about 9 steel columns lagged to cement footers, and an 8" steel i-beam runs out from the foundation to one of the columns, with doubled-up 8x2 boards making up the rest of the frame. After doing some research, I feel confident that this is more than enough support for adding tile and, after discussing it with the wife, we opted not to hire an engineer. Here are the photos. 1 & 2 - Before photos The room was nice enough when we moved in. All of the floors in the house needed to be refinished, so when that was done, the sun rooms were sanded but not finished as we planned to use them as a place to work out of and store things for the renovations. I have no idea what kind of wood is on the walls and ceiling, but it's very sappy. The floors are oak. We love the brick, which is a pattern called tulip, so we intended to leave it as an accent wall in the room. It covers the entire exterior bottom half of our house, as well. After some consideration, we felt for a sunroom, it was kind of drab and wanted to make it a brighter, more welcoming room. 3 & 4 - Ditra dry fit and subfloor installed My original plan was to surgically remove the hardwood floor and store it for future use as repair pieces for any possible damage to the rest of the floors, future projects, or a future owner who might want to reinstall it in the sunroom. I quickly realized that this floor, unlike the rest of the house, was done to what I can only assume are professional standards, and I was doing more damage and putting in more effort than I felt was worth it. After three planks, I went back to the hardware store and got a ¾" oak plank, cut it to size, and filled in the gap where I had already pulled 3 pieces of flooring. After that, I installed the subfloor (1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. PureBond Birch Plywood - $45.75ea. x 4). Sorry, I didn't get any photos of the installation or attempted removal of the hardwood floor. I was taking photos as an after-thought, if I'm being honest. I measured where the support beams were and screwed each piece of plywood down with 2½" deck screws. I figured this would be the next best was to preserve the floors, as someone can just patch the screw holes in the floor and refinish it. This is assuming they're cautious enough not to destroy it while demoing the tile and removing the subfloor. Anyway, once the subfloor was done, I dry-fit the Ditra. 5 & 6. Ditra installed Schluter Ditra is a decoupling membrane. I needed 3 rolls - 54sqft & $86.98ea. - to cover the whole floor. The benefits of using a decoupling membrane of any kind is that it allows for movement in the tile without causing separation from the subfloor or thinset. Years of expansion and contraction, walking, and settling will cause movement in the tile, which can cause that separation. This is one of the reasons tile can crack in time. To install Ditra, you put down a coat of thinset, using a 5/16" x 5/16" v-notch trowel. You do this in workable areas, about 4' x 39" for me, unrolling the section to adhere it to the thinset. There are several ways to ensure it is properly adhered. I used body weight, a 16" cement float, and a sweet sweet core workout to get it done. You just push down on the float, moving it over the area being worked at least a few times. Let it set for 24 hours before working on it. 7. Tile being installed w/ leveling system Once the Ditra sets, it's time to install the tile. We went with a 6" x 36" Archwood grey ($3.99/sqft x 131.4sqft. Total cost for tile and grout was $588.40, not including thinset) woodgrain porcelain tile. To properly set a tile of this size, I used ProLite White Tile and Stone Mortar ($28.97/bag x 6 bags). This is for large formate porcelain tile and comes in 30lb bags. I used the same stuff to adhere the Ditra to the subfloor. Using a 1/2" square notch trowel, I first filled in the spaces on the Ditra, ensuring they were fulling filled-in, scrapping away the excess to confirm. Then you generously apply the thinset to the Ditra surface, scraping away excess, leaving the ridges you need to set the tile. Always back-butter your tile. For those who don't know, this means putting thinset on the back of the tile, ensuring the same ridges are there as are on the floor. Ensure the ridges run the same direction on the tile as they do on the floor. Place the tile down, push down, and work it in perpendicular to the direction of the ridges. This collapses the the ridges and forces out the air between them. You wanna pull up a tile every once in a while to ensure you're getting about 90% coverage. Doing all of this on top of a decoupling membrane will ensure your tile last a very long time with no cracking or popping out of place. Personally, I scrape the thinset away from the edge of both the back of the tile and next to the tile already down. I find if you put enough thinset down, you'll have enough squeeze its way into those voids without so much that you have to clean tons of it out of the grout lines. To clean any excess while still wet, I use an extra spacer with out the base attached and just scrape it out. Wipe down the tiles with a damp sponge after all this to get up a bunch of thinset before it dries. I had to remove the storm door in order to put the threshold down. We got a 6" marble threshold (White Carrara 6" x 84" Shower Jamb, $106.20) which I cut to the proper length - 30". This is set the same exact way as the tiles, just ensuring there's a slight outward pitch for to ensure any water runs out instead of in. When I redid our bathroom was the first time I'd ever done any tiling. I found a leveling system to be very useful for me. I used the RTC Spin Doctor ⅛" tile leveling system base plates (250/box at 29.95 x 2 boxes) and caps (100/box at 27.99/box. I had a couple of boxes already, but needed to buy one more). You just slide the base plates under the tile once placed, and once the other tiles are placed around it, you spin the cap down, which forces each tile to the same level in that spot. If you apply the thinset properly, you'll end up with each tile at a level so consistent that any differences will be so small you don't even notice them. You'll notice the placement of the leveling bases and caps. Basically it's at each end and corner of every time. The floor isn't perfectly square, and not setting my first row of tiles away from a wall was my biggest mistake in this whole project. Fortunately, it isn't so out of square that trimming some tile edges, and cheating some grout lines by going a little wider or narrower than ⅛" wasn't able to fix. Where I had to go narrow, I went as wide as possible and used 1/16" bases so I could still use the leveling caps. 8. Cleaning excess thinset in preparation for grout To clean the excess thinset from grout lines once its dry, I use a very thin screwdriver and just scrape, careful not to chip or scratch any tile. If you did the install as I explained above, you'll have very minimal work here. To clean any haze, I use a mild acid diluted in water. Dampen a sponge with this and wipe down. Then I scrub gently with a bristle brush, and wipe it all down with a damp sponge with just water. 9. Grouting. Grouting is pretty simple I used Tec sanded grout, the color is Silverado ($29.59 for a 25lb bag). To grout, you just mix it to the proper consistency, like a loose peanut butter, and using a rubber grout trowel, you just work it into the grout lines. Keep to a workable area, about 4' x 4' area for me, wiping the area down with a damp sponge. This needs to be done in a particular way. You use a light touch, and use a part of the sponge only once, rinsing the sponge after. Repeat until the whole area is wiped down, and grout the next area. Give it a couple of days to cure before sealing. To seal, just get a good sealer (I honestly forget what I have on-hand, but the stuff was like $150 a bottle) and wipe on as the bottle says to. I had a lot of sealer left over from my bathroom, so it wasn't a necessary purchase for this project. Sealer needs time to dry/cure. If I remember, I had to wait 48 hours before walking on it. 10 & 11. Grout done, trim installed Once the sealer was good to go, I put the trim up. I tot 72ft 1¼" quarter round for the floors and walls were the brick meets the wood, 16ft ⅝" x 1¾" cove for the door, and 16ft of ½" trim to cover exterior of storm door/door frame seem - $176.93 for all the trim. I used a pneumatic finish nailer where I had wood to nail in the trim, and construction adhesive on the quarter round where the tile and the brick meet. 12. Masking and painting What I didn't take photos of was the priming I did before putting down the Ditra. At the recommendation of the paint guys at my local Ace hardware, I went with a latex based primer (Fresh Start Premium Interior Primers - $37.99/gal). This was a mistake. Three coats in, I still had sap bleeding through, so I put a layer of oil based primer (Zinsser Cover Stain - 22.98/gal, but I already had a 5 gallon can from other projects) over it and that stopped the bleeding. Between two bedrooms, a bathroom, and our previous house (painted in entirely sponged pink), I've become pretty good at painting without tape. Since I was using oil based primer on the trim, and the walls and ceiling are tongue and grove board, though, I used painters tape so I wouldn't get primer on the tile or blue paint on the trim while painting in the grooves between boards. The blue paint is Benjamin Moore Aura in a custom matched color in eggshell finish at 79.99/gal, the trim is the same paint, but in white semi-gloss finish, which I already had but picked up another gallon because I wasn't just how much I had left, and the ceiling is Benjamin Moore Muresco Ceiling Paint in a matte finish at $41.99/gal. The second biggest mistake I made in this project was not taping off the windows. It was hot as hell and I got sweaty and lazy and wasn't so semi-pro with those cuts. Now I have to clean the paint off the window frames. 13 - 16. Room painted Just some photos of the finished paint job without the tape and floor paper. I like the Frog Tape, but it still bleeds a little. This is most evident on the brick. To be honest, I'm a little frustrated by that, but it is what it is, and there's no way I'm aware of to get rid of it at this point, especially with that tulip texture on the brick. 17. Fan and outlets/outlet covers installed For outlets, we used 3 3.6A USB Dual Type A In-Wall Charger with 15 Amp Tamper-Resistant Outlets. Two white, one black, $21.95 each. The outlet covers are Hampton Bay 1 Gang GFCI Decorator Wall Plates. I left two white, one primed and painted one black to match the black outlet, as they don't make these covers in black. They're $6.38 each. The fan is a Hunter Cavera 52", 5 blade ceiling fan - $179.00. To install it, I just followed the directions. The only thing is I didn't use a ceiling fan light box, which might prove to be a mistake, but I honestly doubt it. To secure it, I drilled a bunch of extra holes in the mounting plate and used about a dozen deck screws to secure it to the ¾" boards that make up the ceiling (and walls). Once mounted, I took a solid 30 minutes to ensure it was perfectly balanced to avoid any wobble that could loosen up the screws over time. I feel like this will be an acceptable alternative to a ceiling fan light box. If the ceiling was drywall and plaster and not ¾" wood boards, I would have used the proper type of box. 18 & 19. Furniture delivered & assembled That's pretty much it. The furniture was delivered and assembled by the place we got it. I did have to remove a window to get the sectional corner piece in since it was too wide to be maneuvered around the doors, but that was the only real work to do here. The sectional is a North Cape Malibu sectional w/ Sunbrella fabric cushions, and the table is actually a white bench. The total cost for them was $3,794.83 - 64.02% of our total cost for the room. As I mentioned before, the other furniture is a bench I made a few years ago, an extra Ikea Expedit we had, and (I forgot about this one earlier) some basket/end table my wife got at some point, no idea how much of from where, though. Probably TJ Max, or HomeGoods, or something like that. Well, that's the sunroom renovation details. If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, feel free to leave a comment. Thanks for sticking around this long. [link] [comments] |
| Advice on windows. Security bars AND plantation shutters? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:21 PM PDT I'm a complete noob at any type of home projects, so this might be a stupid question. But does anyone know if it's possible to install one of these indoor window guards and plantation shutters? Has anyone done it? And, maybe less importantly, does it look silly? Thanks for any advice! [link] [comments] |
| Am I ready to makeover my room? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 05:32 PM PDT Hey guys, My room is DARK BLUE, one strip of red, and light blue (ceiling). It is SO ugly and my room has embarrassed me for five years. I have decided that I am actualy going to repaint my room. However, I have realized that painting is more than just adding a layer. So right now, I have -roller frame and roller -2 cans of white paint -a sanding block -primer Is there anything I am missing? Also, which order do I go in? Sanding or priming first? [link] [comments] |
| Top-bottom sliding shelf on dry wall Posted: 14 Aug 2020 05:32 PM PDT I am in a tiny condo and looking to increase storage. Want to install an Ikea Sektion shelf (15" depth x 30" wide x 15" height) at the kitchen entrance (on the dry wall) that can be lowered when we need it, otherwise pushed up so we don't hit our head. Did some search online, but only came up with pull out shelves and stuff, but not top-bottom like we are looking. Think this might need some clever solution. Wondering if anyone has any ideas. Any help is greatly appreciated 🙏🙇♂️ [link] [comments] |
| Connected Single Family Home 1/ Car Garage Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:11 PM PDT Good Morning, I was curious to know how much a connected single family , one car garage with concrete walls without insulation 15 ft/ long , 11 ft wide, 8.9 ft tall could be turned into an additional bedroom or studio apartment. Utilities desired for the space would be a flat wall against the soon inert garage door, & power sockets. Thank you very much guys - I live in South Florida if that helps too. I really appreciate the response. Much Love [link] [comments] |
| What would cause elevated moisture readings on garage floor ? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:10 PM PDT I'm in south florida and it's only one section of the garage. I only noticed it once I put a gym mat down and it started to develop mold.. I removed the mat thinking it was just some water but now weeks later it's still showing elevated moisture . Any ideas ? [link] [comments] |
| Help! Water pouring throw window during heavy rain! Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:04 PM PDT The window well on this thing is basically non existence (crappy old bricks) so would replacing that help? I get that I'll need to replace the window but damn that's expensive 😡😫 Note the two videos https://imgur.com/a/iiFSAeJ What's the first thing I should do tmrw morning? [link] [comments] |
| Removing Ceramic Tile from Concrete ? Posted: 14 Aug 2020 09:04 PM PDT Any tips or tricks? We rented a hammer chisel kind of tool, but damn! It is still slow going ! Is there a better angle, or attack, or whatever? These tiles do not want to come up ! [link] [comments] |
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