Home Improvement: I changed a ceiling fan today! |
- I changed a ceiling fan today!
- This might sound like a stupid question, but shouldn't a 135psi air compressor shut off automatically once the tank reaches 135psi?
- Billiards room converted to family room
- Found this mold growing in a corner of my sunroom when I opened it up after the winter. What is it and how should I deal with it?
- Got a crazy water bill. Last read was 3/3 and was 842 kgal. Right now, four days later, it's 849 - 7000 gals in 4 days. That can't just be a leaking toilet, right?
- Trash Compactors - Fad or Add?
- Running a new fridge water line through the crawl space
- Sizing a water softener
- New construction - worth it to upgrade thermofoil cabinets?
- Hot water takes forever
- Need advice on plumbing code (Ontario, Canada)
- Native plant meadow above septic leach field - which plants are OK?
- Flooring Advice for 3 Season Porch
- Driveway pot hole - how do I fix?
- Rebuilding perimeter interior walls in a double brick house to accept new plumbing, electrical and drywall. Can I space the studs wider and would diagonal bracing be necessary if there is no sheathing attached to it?
- How can I turn the top of this dog crate into a useable surface?
- Called 811 and not sure what's next. Can I poke sticks for my garden down in this area? Pics included
- What is the best stainless Steele undermount kitchen sink that doesn’t rust?
- House being remodeled, thinking of painting ourselves
- I call it a "I don't care windows" because "gap" just seems too small...
- Maple engineered hardwood floor underlayment
- Dishwasher not draining....except when it does
- Ikea cabinets against bowed wall
- Range hood exhaust diameter VS cfm
| I changed a ceiling fan today! Posted: 07 Mar 2020 02:30 PM PST My first post, and also a bit of a self brag, but I changed my first ceiling fan today with minimal electric current running through my body, so I call that a success! I purchased a duplex about a year ago, and weve been having some minor issues with electricity. I had a ceiling fan in the back of one of the master bedrooms that was wobbly. Also, the light went off a while ago, and I could not figure out what was causing it. New bulbs failed, so I bought a Multimeter, which I had never used before and put together that there was electric current running to the ceiling fan(Lots of numbers flashing when I put it to the black), so I finally dished out what i thought was going to be an expensive purchase and bought a ceiling fan. $70 from Lowe's and very nice! I was worried that I would lose my mind on the wiring, but honestly it was very easy. Black to Black, White to White, Red to Blue, and Greens are Ground! I'm sure this is an easy day for most of you, but I'm so proud of myself that I'm sitting in the Master Bedroom, enjoying my newfound light! Edit: What a supportive community. I'm very pleased and humbled to share my first major success with my new home. You guys are great. I follow for the tips, but it's the expert advice and understanding that makes posting worthwhile. On a side note, if anyone has experience with countertops, I would love to hear your tales. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2020 08:19 AM PST I have this air compressor. Bought it from a neighbor who said it worked just fine. It didn't come with a hose so I couldn't test it before buying. Well I finally got a hose and used it all today for the first time. I plugged it in and walked away. Soon after I heard PPSSSSSSHHHHHHH and the overflow valve next to the tank regulator had opened was releasing air. Once the air pressure lowered, I pushed the overflow valve back in and let it build up pressure again, but watching it this time. The tank pressure went up to 150 and then I decided to turn the power off before the overflow valve was able to open just to be safe. I'm making the assumption the tank pressure shouldn't go over 135. Do I have a busted compressor? Update 1: I did another test. I empited the tank to start fresh. I set the output to 40psi and turned the compressor on. The tank pressure went well over 150psi and then the safety valve blew open. So I can confirm, the compressor is not turning off when it needs to. Now to figure out how to fix that. Update 2: Thanks everyone for the help. I took the compressor apart to get a look at the pressure switch. There is no adjustment screw anywhere in there. Stamped right on the pressure switch it says "cut in 105 cut out 135". So I guess that answers my original question that this compressor 'should' stop at 135psi. Now to find the part. Update 3: I found the part. Only $13! [link] [comments] |
| Billiards room converted to family room Posted: 07 Mar 2020 07:35 AM PST When I bought my home it came with a billiards room. Which sounds awesome, I love playing pool but it really didn't get much use. So I turned it into a family room/media room. Project details: I was lucky to be able to get the EXACT same hardwood flooring that the previous owner used from Home Depot. The TV I purchases is a Samsung Q70r and the speakers are made by Micca. The AV receiver is Denon and was something I already had before the renovation. I am still waiting on an 8x10 area rug from Pottery Barn and a sleeper sectional from Arhaus. I am also waiting on blackout roman shades from Pottery Barn but being that they are custom wil take 3-4 months so I put the old ones back up for now. All thats left is to lay the quarter round! Budget: We didn't really have a budget for this project. As I am renovating rooms we are making them EXACTLY how we want. I like to just do it how I want it the first time so its done and doesn't have to be revisited later. We are very fortunate to be able to take this approach when tackling projects. If I was paying someone else to do the labor we would definitely budget. Since I do the work myself it allows us to take this approach. Sold the pool table and ripped up the carpet Laid down hardwood to tie it into the existing hardwood in the kitchen Bought unfinished registers and stained them to much. This was so satisfying to do vs drop in This was part of an addition so the interior wall was load bearing Cables dropped down to the crawl space AV box installed and plates installed Junction box installed and power spliced in. Speaker wire, HDMI, coax, toslink and cat6 run Brought the cables back up and ran them into the corner hutch Painting done, TV hung and speakers installed Hope you enjoyed my project. Can't wait for the couch to arrive do I can really enjoy the space I created! [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2020 10:37 AM PST |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2020 05:13 PM PST None of my (two) toilets are leaking that I can see. All of our faucets are fine. Can't check the dishwasher but don't see anything up with the washing machine or the water heater. Trying to work out if I get a "leak fix" plumber immediately or call the city to say the line to the house need to be repaired immediately. EDIT: Shut off the water to the house and the red triangle on the meter is still spinning so it's either a faulty meter or supply line. Rats! [link] [comments] |
| Trash Compactors - Fad or Add? Posted: 07 Mar 2020 08:45 PM PST As I was manually squishing down the trash in the kitchen garbage, I was wondering if trash compactors were still a thing. My mother-out-law has one in her house, and hers looked like a fad from the 70s when her house (and mine as well) was built. Surprisingly, trash compactors are still a thing. Is anyone adding these to their kitchen? What were your drivers to add one? How much use do you actually get from yours if you've got one installed? [link] [comments] |
| Running a new fridge water line through the crawl space Posted: 07 Mar 2020 10:10 PM PST I just bought a house and I want to upgrade my fridge to one with an ice maker. The fridge is 10 feet across from the sink and the best way to run the water line would be through the crawl space. The run between the two is around 15 feet. The sink cold water supply is coming from a copper pipe. Since I am running the fridge supply line through the crawl space, do I need to use pex? And can I use 1/4" piping in the crawl space or should I step it down once I have reached the floor / wall behind the fridge? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2020 04:53 PM PST So there are two of us, typical usage, though we like to entertain so we have people over, but not a massive load. We are at 15gpg and no iron registering on test strips and iron doesn't show up on the water report. It looks like using online calculators it recommends a 24k grain unit, however I was looking at a 48k or 64k unit because I heard partial regens can be more efficient and ultimately cost less? I know I'll get at least a 48k grain unit since it's a larger house and if we sell to someone with more in the family a 24k will be undersize. My question is do I gain anything for $50 to get a 64k grain over a 48k grain? Looking at the fleck 5600sxt. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| New construction - worth it to upgrade thermofoil cabinets? Posted: 07 Mar 2020 03:56 AM PST [edit]Well, this was very conclusive! Thanks everyone! The thermofoil cabinets sound horrendous. Sounds like I'd be one Instant Pot steam release away from disaster. I just called the salesperson to confirm I want to upgrade to maple. This thread was super useful. Hopefully it pops up whenever anyone searches about these cabinets.[/edit] I'm finalizing my list of upgrades for a new home build. Major national builder. Everything is an upgrade. It's a starter home and I don't expect to stay in it more than 5-6 years. The included cabinets are thermofoil. To upgrade to actual maple wood cabinets is a total of $2,600. That upgrades all the cabinets in the entire house (entire kitchen as well as all cabinetry in the bathrooms). In the grand scheme of things, it's not much, but it's one of those things where every upgrade is "not much", but adds up to a lot. Everything I've read about thermofoil is not great. But the sample cabinets actually don't feel too bad. Is it worth the upgrade? I had originally gone for the upgrade because I figure paying it now for better cabinets is a lot better than having a cabinet door melt or peel or get really dinged up, resulting in me having to do a full kitchen remodel before selling to keep up with the market. But if I'm only going to be in the house 5 years, I'm also tempted to take that $2,600 savings and call it a day. I've gone back and forth on this decision for days now. Does anyone have experience with cheap builder thermofoil cabinets? Are they that bad? I do enjoy cooking and spending time in the kitchen. But if the thermofoil cabinets will still look okay when I go to sell, that $2,600 upgrade to maple will not yield me any return on investment. It will go completely unnoticed. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2020 07:39 AM PST Hi everyone, we moved into a new house recently and we have a big complaint. Hot water takes FOREVER to reach the master bathroom. We have a gas hot water heater that I know is poorly placed. Water goes into our PEX manifold, up into the attic, across the house, back into the PEX manifold, out through the master bathroom line, into the attic once more and across the house to the master bathroom. I know it would be best to just move the hot water heater to the other side of the house by the PEX manifold but that's out of the question for us. Is there another workaround that we could do? Could we tee off the hot water line from the hot water heater and tie it straight into the master bath line? Or are there small inline heaters that we could buy to heat it up closer to the bathroom? [link] [comments] |
| Need advice on plumbing code (Ontario, Canada) Posted: 07 Mar 2020 07:25 PM PST Hi friends! My husband and I are doing a kitchen reno. We sent a picture of it to our neighbour who told us we were breaking code because we tied our vents in below the flood level rim of the kitchen sink (the T connector that connects the sink drain to the air flow pipe is below 36 inches). The requirement is apparently 36 inches from the floor, currently it's at 22 inches. He said it would fail an inspection, but should still work okay. It will be behind drywall and not accessible unless the wall is opened. How much of an issue is this actually? And how could a home inspector fail it if he/she can't see it? He mentioned we should be able to run it into the attic, but we're opening the wall the sink is on and creating a window connecting the kitchen and living room together so we can't just run it through the opening.... Thanks friends! https://imgur.com/gallery/8jgd0xW pics to help visualize [link] [comments] |
| Native plant meadow above septic leach field - which plants are OK? Posted: 07 Mar 2020 06:49 AM PST I've been reading online blog posts about this issue for some time and while there are some consistent rules (no trees or shrubs, no vegetable gardening, turf grass is AOK), there is one question I still have. What kinds of perennials are ok above a leach field? There seems to be three prevailing opinions on the web. One, that almost all perennials are good for field, implying that perennials are just not aggressive enough to disturb the leach field lines. Two, that perennials without long taproots are fine. Taproots are argued to invade the lines and must be avoided. Three, that perennials suited to dry conditions are fine, because even if they have long taproots, they are evolved not to plunge into very wet conditions. My current concern is around Sundial Lupine - lupinus perennis - a native lupine that helps a beautiful blue butterfly survive (Karner Blue). This perennial is said to thrive in dry conditions, and has a long taproot. I thus have to know which theory above is right before I plant these lupines. Thanks so much for your input. [link] [comments] |
| Flooring Advice for 3 Season Porch Posted: 07 Mar 2020 06:41 PM PST I'm looking to update my three season porch this spring, and one of the things that has to go is the awful indoor/outdoor carpet. What flooring options would be best? Some info: The flooring would have to withstand Midwestern temperatures, -10 degrees to 100+degrees. The room is poorly insulated. The porch is fairly shaded and does not get much direct sunlight. The subfloor is plank boards over a full, unfinished basement. The floor joists had been sistered to new joists by the previous owner. The floor is fairly level and flat. Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Driveway pot hole - how do I fix? Posted: 07 Mar 2020 10:21 PM PST Hi guys - I have developed a couple of potholes in my gravel driveway. How should I go about fixing these? Link here: pothole [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2020 07:23 AM PST We removed all the fir strips and plaster in a complete gut job, rigid foam board insulation is going in, and then the new 2x4 walls that are all non load bearing. Do I need to stick to 16" or can I space the studs farther apart? Thanks [link] [comments] |
| How can I turn the top of this dog crate into a useable surface? Posted: 07 Mar 2020 06:08 PM PST Would be nice if I could use the top if it as a side table next to my couch. How would I go about doing this? Just get a piece of plywood or something? How would I secure it? Excuse my ignorance, I am not good at making stuff with my hands. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 07 Mar 2020 07:09 AM PST I'm going to put a garden fence to restrict my dogs from going to one side of my yard for a few weeks. 811 came and did their thing. There is an empty gap right where I was planning on sticking the posts in. Am I safe to poke the stick in where its highlighted. It would be more ideal on the purple line but the red line is fine too. [link] [comments] |
| What is the best stainless Steele undermount kitchen sink that doesn’t rust? Posted: 07 Mar 2020 09:40 PM PST Hey! Kitchen Renos starting soon. I'm trying to finalize final details. I had a sink selected from Lowe's, however, some of the reviews added pictures of a sink that's not suppose to rust... but it rusted and scratched. I love to cook so I'm searching for a durable but elegant sink. I'll attach the link of what I'm thinking of. Any recommendations please include a link if possible. Thanks. Handmade 32-in x 19-in Stainless Steel Single Bowl Undermount Commercial/Residential Kitchen Sink https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kraus-Handmade-32-in-x-19-in-Stainless-Steel-Single-Bowl-Undermount-Commercial-Residential-Kitchen-Sink/4763495 [link] [comments] |
| House being remodeled, thinking of painting ourselves Posted: 07 Mar 2020 05:53 PM PST We are having our home restored after a fire. The interior paint is going to cost us 12k for a 1600 sqft home. We are thinking we should just do the walls and ceilings ourselves to save some money. What should we know going into this? Prep well? Is it a bad idea? - that's a lot of money, I'm assuming it's meticulous work.. We will need to do the whole place over a single weekend, maybe a 3 day weekend. Is that doable? Thank you! [link] [comments] |
| I call it a "I don't care windows" because "gap" just seems too small... Posted: 07 Mar 2020 09:38 PM PST First off I hate mobile homes...I hate how they are built with a passion...I dislike repairing them...and hate how they are displayed and shown in a way where it looks nice and expensive... but under that big blanket of lies they call a mobile home is crap... I am sheet rocking a trailer...I did not put the new siding siding on ...someone who didn't care put it on It's I have seen it all around the extrorier walls but this is the worst yet...the space is too big to be called a gap so I coined a new phrase which is "I don't care windows" What I call "I don't care windows" https://imgur.com/gallery/kSHRqSg Because the only way that happens is of you dont care...how do you walk away from that telling yourself you did a good job Unfortunately I am only getting paid to tear out paeling a replace with sheet rock...or I would have addressed it... I did put some spray foam to block it up...I didn't want to to keep seeing it...that is just plan laziness [link] [comments] |
| Maple engineered hardwood floor underlayment Posted: 07 Mar 2020 05:18 PM PST I am planning on this project and got my flooring picked I need to figure out which kind of underlayment is best, Its going on the main floor of the house on top of plywood which is above a finished basement some people suggest silicone paper others foam or cork what's best?? [link] [comments] |
| Dishwasher not draining....except when it does Posted: 07 Mar 2020 08:57 PM PST Our dishwasher for some reason does not drain at the end of a cycle. It's not clogged, we have checked and cleaned the hoses and filters. If I start the dishwasher and immediately cancel the cycle, it will drain all the water out. It's almost like it's just forgetting to drain at the end and leaves a pool of water at the bottom. Any thoughts? [link] [comments] |
| Ikea cabinets against bowed wall Posted: 07 Mar 2020 08:48 PM PST I'm installing Ikea (Sektion) cabinets against a rather bowed wall. I'm hanging the rail right now and I'm worried about some of the gaps due to the bow. The instructions state: "If your wall is uneven, use shims between the rail and the wall to make sure the rail is flush". My question is: is there a limit to the size of gap before shimming is not enough? The largest gap would be 1/2" which seems like it's right on the line between ok and not ok to shim. Is shimming this gap fine, or do I need to consider flattening that wall instead? [link] [comments] |
| Range hood exhaust diameter VS cfm Posted: 07 Mar 2020 04:58 PM PST Setup: I've got a range hood in my kitchen that sits on the outside wall, venting straight out, no more than 1 foot to the outside. This vent port is 4 inches in diameter, but the range hood has a 6 inch exhaust. The question: because it's just a short distsnce, does this reduction in diameter significantly restrict the airflow? Asking because: kitchen is a smokey hot mess. What now: I'm not sure if I need a range hood that has a higher CFM rating, or if I'll see a dramatic improvement by increasing the vent port diameter in the wall. Appliance info: Vent-a-Hood, 450 cfm over gas oven and 4 burner stove. [link] [comments] |
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